Pichon Lalande, Solaia, Musar, Heitz, Penfolds and more

[Junior]

I haven’t posted for a while but here are some impressions from a tasting of mature examples of cabernet based wines from around the world a few months ago. Not a loser in this bunch of wines showcasing such a wide spectrum of styles and even the older wines were not past their drinking plateaus.

1. NV Selosse Substance Blanc de Blanc, Champagne (disgorged October 2005)
A spectacularly rich, nutty, mouth filling beverage with peachy overtones.
Incredible concentration and depth of flavour. A magnificent start. A
2. 1962 Chateau Tahbilk Bin 26 Reserve Cabernet, Goulburn Valley, Victoria
Appeared youthful despite age; a rustic style showcasing blackcurrant and black-
berry fruit profile. No profound complexity but lovely balance and length. B+
3. 1974 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard, Napa Valley, California
Tertiary, medium bodied, cassis laden wine featuring subtle mineral and spicy
notes finishing with a flourish of sweetness; lacked the extreme minty descriptors
often ascribed to it; continued to evolve over the evening. Excellent. B+
4. 1981 Moss Wood Cabernet, Margaret River, Western Australia
Another generous berry driven wine with a slight herbal streak that disappeared
over time; lovely palate weight and fruit definition giving a luxurious feel.
Excellent. B+
5. 1982 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
Here we go: captivating waves of beautifully interwoven aromas and flavours –
cassis, tobacco, tea, rose petals and others that come to the fore then recede on
their own terms. Perfect palate weight and texture akin to Kundera’s “The
Unbearable Lightness of Being”. Stellar. A+
6. 1986 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
More concentrated berried fruit here with noticeable (but not distracting) essence
of vanilla; lifted palate with plush mouthfeel; perhaps more jammy nuances later;
remained well balanced with a long finish. Powerful. B+
7. 1991 Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Funky, caramel tinged sweetness with traces of oregano and thyme; great
complexity with a medium bodied finish. Most like the Pichon. Lovely. A
8. 1994 Stonyridge Larose, Waiheke Island, New Zealand
Lovely fragrant bouquet and pristine blackcurrant flavours laced with some
savouriness and a hint of olives. Superb fruit definition and structure with lovely
dusty tannins on the finish. A
9. 1997 Antinori Solaia, Tuscany, Italy
Very primary plum and blackberry profile encased in a tight tannin sheath without
the savouriness expected from the sangiovese component. Needs more time but
has the structure to blossom. Perfunctory B rating at this stage.
10.1977 Warres Port, Portugal
No more notes taken but a lovely way to finish proceedings.

Of course the Pichon Lalande was unanimously regarded as wine of the night.

Cheers,
Junior

[Comte Flaneur]

Junior brilliant notes - I love the reference to “The Unbearable Lightness of Being” in reference to the Pichon Lalande 1982, which never ceases to amaze or impress. Is this the the best ever modern wine? I remember a decade or more ago pundits predicting it would be receding gracefully into the sunset by now. Regarding the 'Unbearable Lightness of Being' the last time I really experienced that was with Ch D'Yquem 1976 - a wine which glides across the palate with virtually no friction. Perhaps that is the best definition of great wine?

[Claret]

The well respected California wine buyer from my former employer who is a long time California wine devotee has tasted probably thousands of California wines. When I asked him several years ago which was his all time favorite California wine he replied 1974 Heitz Matha's Vineyard. I tried to get him to open a bottle with me but no dice.