1998 Ch. Léoville Barton

[AlexR]

Hi,

Alain Bringolf of Winemega/Winestat is in town and we went out to dinner tonight at a very nice brasserie called L'Orléans.
Their wine list is excellent.

We had 1998 Léoville Barton with the main course (guinea fowl for Alain, veal chop for me).

We were both surprised by how approachable the wine was. At its peak? Probably not. But certainly sensual and
enjoyable now.

The color was deep and sumptuous through and through. The nose was subtle and many faceted. We picked out
raspberry (perhaps especially), blackcurrant, coffee, well-integrated toasty oak, and other toasty aromas.

The palate was very lively, refreshing, and classical. I told Alain that there were certain aspects that reminded
me of the very best Loire Valley reds.
There was a vibrant uplift at the end due to the good acidity that gave an especially fresh and pleasing aftertaste.
There was a strong mineral component on the finish (you could almost taste the gravel in the vineyards!), but this
was not accompanied by any dryness or bitterness.

The balance was wonderful. Alain said the best word to describe this wine is "distinguished".
He is a great fan of Léoville Barton and has many recent vintages in his cellar, but not the 1998.
So he was happy to taste it.

We got to talking with one of the waiters, who took us to see their wine cellar after the meal.

An altogether good evening and a good place to know.

All the best,
Alex R.

[Rieslingfan]

Thanks Alex. I have some resting peacefully, but may have to stand one up.

[AlainB.]

My first post on BWE is to thank Alex for his invitation at the "L'Orléans" restaurant.
By the way, this typical French Brasserie should be on the books for anyone visiting Bordeaux. The food is excellent and the wine list is extensive with very studied and reasonable prices. A hot recommendation!
And yes.. this bottle of 1998 Barton was extremely enjoyable while shared with a great friend.

Cheers,
Alain

[DavidG]

Good to see you around these parts, Alain.

[JimHow]

I think St. Julien was strong in 1998. The '98 Ducru is a beauty, I recall drinking a 1998 Leoville Poyferre with Mike Case at Napa '02 and it was excellent.

[alchemeus]

I bought a case of the 1998 Ducru Beaucailou. 4 down methinks. Something like $30 per. Guess those days are over. Bought after a trial.

Several other 98's I pruchased. Even the Sociando-Mallet. Still drinks nicely and methinks that was $250 for the case. Also bought the Lynch-Bages among a couple-three others. Wasn't a SUCK vintage for me.

[AlainB.]

Hi David.. I'll try to be around "BWE II" more often

Hi Alch, nice to see you around here!
To my view, Cabernet Sauvignon had problems to ripen properly in 1998. Therefore Left Bank wines are sometimes tight and closed with a slight greenish tannin feel. But a number of good properties in the Medoc performed very well and produced excellent classic styled wines whose quality will probably be close to par with 1996 Medoc.

The real deal in 1998 is on the Right Bank. A high number of Châteaux at St-Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol.. have produced some of their best wines in the last 20 years. For many property owners, they recognize that 1998 was surpassed only by the recent 2005 vintage.

Cheers,
Alain

[DavidG]

Alain, I agree with your take on the '98 RB vs LB characteristics. That slightly green/vegetal component appeals to some more than others. My appreciation for veggies is limited but not zero. For those who like it more, '98 RB is a pretty good vintage and an even better deal. Of course, just about anything pre-2000 looks like a pretty good deal.