1989 Le Bon Pasteur

[AlexR]

The wife and I were invited out to dinner last night.

After some enjoyable, but un-noteworthy Champagne, Sancerre, and Pouilly Fumé (main course was seafood paella) we had 89 Château Le Bon Pasteur with the cheese course.

This was much better than I thought it would be. That's because the estate belongs to Michel Rolland, whose winemaking style is pretty controversial.

And yet... The wine we had was classic, balanced, and right at its peak.
The nose was very classy, with violet overtones and hints of fresh mushrooms and humus. Un vin de terroir, sure thing!

This Bon Pasteur was not top-heavy or over-extracted at all. In fact, it was pretty sleek and delicious, pure and refreshing.
It was also - and please don't get mad at me for being prissy here, but there's really not other word - empyrematic i.e. a sort of smoldering burnt smell with rubbery aspects.
That doesn't sound very appetizing, but when it's under control and in the background, it is a hallmark of some of the finest Right Bank wines.
Only a lack of assertiveness and length on the aftertaste put this out of the very tip of the Pomerol pyramid.

We followed up with more Champagne and Léopold Gourmel "Age de Fruit" Cognac that was streamlined, elegant, and yummy.

I slept a little later than usual, but the otherise the head is clear and the kick-off to the Christmas season 2011 is a fine memory.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Ramon_NYC]

I don't quite recall having had the 1989, but have had Le Bon Pasteur 1990 many times before and, MIchel Rolland style notwithstanding, always found it to be one of the better wines that I've had from this chateau. Never thought of the wine to be over-the-top and they always had sufficient vin de Pomerol qualities in them. A more than beyond-adequate 1990, if I may, and good wines for the price.

Besides that, I also think that 1998 is another fine effort, albeit a little more modern in style, but easy on the palate with, again, enough semblance of a good Pomerol.

[stefan]

I have had good experience with Le Bon Pasteur in good right bank vintages; in particular, the 1989, which I last drank about a year ago, was very nice, just (as Alex notes) a step or two below the top level.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Just a guess but probably the Rolland style developed during the weak early nineties and then took hold more towards the later nineties and accelerated steadily from there, with the tipping point being 2003. Just a thought...