A trio of 05s and a 2nd look at an 07 Chablis

[Houndsong]

Had another go with the 2007 Les Blanchots from Dme. Long-Depaquit last night with crab cakes. This was more impressive than the first bottle, or perhaps it helped that it was drunk standalone and not after something else. Anyway the bouquet here is still rather subdued and what I get for the most part are oyster shells and just a suggestion of an unripe banana (at least the banana popped up once during the evening). But the palate seemed to have considerably more impact. It has a nice combination of silky unctuousness and raciness in a firm, medium bodied package. There's a tingling spiciness to this on its own and it kind of echoed this jalapeño-artichoke dip we had. Good length but not the most powerful finish. Anyway very enjoyable. Anyone care to speak on the advisability of holding a few of these for 10 years or so?

Earlier in the week we knocked back an 05 Tour St. Bonnet. This wine should be proud to sport the humble "Medoc" appellation. This has some drying tannin but it has nice cut and plenty of fruit. It's open for biz though still having primary sweetness even as it is no longer just a slug of primaryness structure-wise. As I said at the time, I found this to be one of the most "normal" tasting 05s initially with succulent acidity as I slugged my way through some very sweet and "gooey" wines on arrival. As I've noted, to their credit, all these wines have since dried out quite a bit and should pose interesting drinking down the road. At $12 a throw this can handle most situations calling for Bordeaux and do it guilt-free.

Then there was the 05 Grand Corbin Despagne. This was probably among the two tightest and seemingly most traditional of the 05s on arrival. (since then I say the 05 Haut Bages Liberal has laid claim to the top spot in that regard.) Certainly it paled alongside similarly priced wines like the Bridgitte Barde Haut, La Bienfaisance and even the Lusseau. I think patience will be rewarded as this is crawling out of its shell and is sporting not just textbook structure but also some of the more elusive flavors I like, such as black tea. These should be good down the line after the likes of the Lusseau (which is very enjoyable in its own right) have been drunk up.

Finally last night with some Christmas Stollen I killed off the dregs of a much-abused 05 de Malle. This went well with the marzipan and the spiced/candied citrus fruits in the bread. It's amazing what these wines can take. Standing in the fridge, then being frozen for a while, then standing in the fridge some more, all with the cork, which had pushed through initially on opening, marinating in it. Out of respect, I Tebowed after finishing this.

[stefan]

I'll hold a bottle or two of Long-Depaquit 2007 Les Blanchots despite the risk of premox because I think that unaffected bottles will develop well.

[sdr]

so stefan, you are still buying "old" (2007) white burgundy - and holding on to them?

After a painful abstinence from the genre, I recently started to but white burgs again, but nothing older than 2009, nothing too fancy, not too many bottles, with the goal of finishing them by 2014. All the 2009s I have tried have been open and delicious already.

Stuart

[stefan]

Yes, Stuart, I am still buying 1997s, but I will not cellar very many for
the long haul.