Panos once again came through and organized a nice vertical dinner. This time we were joined by Mr. Eric d'Aramon, the wine maker at Chateau Figeac. Mr. d'Aramon was a bon vivant with a wonderful sense of humor.
Mr. d’Aramon explained the properties history. The property was owned by his wife’s family since the late 19 centuries but mostly managed from Paris. It was in the 50s when his father in law moved to the property and started to make the wine. The grape composition is 1/3 of cab s, cab f and merlot.
It was interesting and quite educational to taste the vertical of Figeacs. Mr. d’Aramon’s explained his approach in making wines that are drinking well vs tasting well and food friendly. The grapes are picked a bit early accordingly. The wines clearly reflected his philosophy. Other than the 09, they all showed bright acidity, fresh fruits and noticeable tannins. Mr. d’Aramon mentioned that perhaps cabernet sauvignon was picked a bit early and you can definitely notice green/vegetal characters. Will this express in different way perhaps menthol or mint with time, I am not so sure.
Flight 1
We started with a lovely Krug NV as usual a mid 90 pointer.
- 2006 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
A hint of green pepper, cedar, ash, earth and flower. Blue and red fruits. The overall impression is cool and no sweetness in fruit. Medium concentration showing dry tannins. It is a nose driven wine perhaps will develop like the 86,ie mostly nose driven, a bit angular with noticeable tannins. Definitely not recommend if you prefer noticeable upfront fruits in your Bordeaux. (90 pts.) - 2005 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Perhaps the second biggest/ripest wine of the dinner after the 09. Ripe but fresh, licorice, blue to black fruit. All Figeacs seem to clearly display the vintage characteristics and this no exception, interesting to compare with the 09 which is a typical 09. Very young, impressive showing excellent concentration, siky mouthfeel but not much pleasure to drink at the moment as the overall impression is not too expressive. (94 pts.)
- 2000 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Starts with a hint of green but quickly becomes very vegetal. I find strong presence of pyrazine bothersome a a la 2004 burgundy. Black fruits, mineral, caramel, coffee and tobacco. The palate displays medium concentration and slightly bitter. If you like chinon from a cooler vintage, you may like this wine. If you palate agrees with Bob or love upfront plush fruits, avoid. (89 pts.) - 2001 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Very Burgundian impression but distinctively Bordeaux, bright red fruits, cedar, licorice, caramel as usual for this property a hint of green which in this case quite refreshing. This medium body wine is the most approachable in this flight, soft, sweet and luscious. It is ready to go and will complement most meat dishes well. (92 pts.) - 2004 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This is open for business. Crushed blueberries, baked fruits, cassis, mineral, once again a hint of green. This medium body expressive wine is the most primary and freshest of the flight. (93 pts.)
- 1999 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
I initially called Brett but Ken B correctly identify as VA. Showing some ashes, charred meat, jammy sweet fruits, mushroom and wet tobacco. Slightly hollow mid-palate. (91 pts.) - 1998 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The 98 is my favorite at the moment. This is a very exotic and hedonistic wine. Deeply toned red fruits, flower, cinnamon, nutmeg, chartreuse and cedar. This displays similar Burgundian aspects as the 2001. Excellent concentration, bright acidity and integrated tannins. Lovely wine. (97 pts.) - 1995 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Sweet red fruits, cherries, flowers, cocoa, cedar and a hint of green. The palate displays medium concentration, bright acidity and some tannins. The wine is fully matured and drinking well but will last due to the acidity and tannins. I believe some like this a lot more than I. I preferred the 98 by a wide margin. (91 pts.)
- 1990 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Another fully matured wine, earth, truffle, caramel, coffee, anise and a hint of mint. The palate displays medium concentration, freshness, bright acidity and fully integrated tannins. As expected, I seem to prefer riper style of this property. Lovely wine. (95 pts.) - 1986 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The wine that Mr. d'Aramon’s father in law made. According to Mr. d'Aramon his father in law didn’t put much emphasis on the color of the wine. Fully matured, red fruits, Barolo like sweetness and tar, anise and a hint of green. Bright acidity keeps the wine fresh but seems the lightest of all served. Mouth puckering tannins and high acidity makes the wine a bit angular. This was WOTN for some. This is a good wine but I certainly am not loving it. (92 pts.) - 2009 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This very ripe wine is not unlike the other 09s. This may be a bit controversial but this show the similar ripe fruit characters as the 09 Pavie. A critic rated this 93-94+ vs 70-75 for Pavie. Crushed blueberries, cassis, licorice, crushed rocks and lavender. This is a big scale, voluptuous wine. The most concentrated and ripest of the night. (95 pts.)
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