TNs: Burgundy, specifically Cotes de Beaune

[Ramon_NYC]

Burgundies at Riverpark
Riverpark Restaurant, NYC
01/18/2012

The last few dinners by this group, originally borne out of the core members’ Bordeaux enthusiasm, had us intentionally branching out into previously-unofflined wine themes outside of, well, Bordeaux. Previously, we had the Rhone dinner and a blind tasting of reds that don’t suck. The latest, a collective brainchild by some of the Burgundy aficionados in the group, was not just any Burgundy dinner. This was about the wines of the Cotes de Beaune.

With 8 fun attendees, dinner at Riverpark was both enjoyable and a delight. We perused the restaurant’s Bar Menu for our starter bites, which included the very good Oyster Tacos and trays of sliced Jamons from Spain. While my Pumpkin Gnocchi appetizer was just above average, the Monkfish main course that I opted for proved to be an excellent choice. I didn’t find anything to complain about with the efficient food and wine service, and would gladly go back for either a personal or another group wine dinner.

The whites

Puligny-Montrachet
1998 Dom. de Montille 1er Cru les Caillerets
A very stern, young-tasting, high acid big wine. This was nicely put together and I’d love to have some of this in my cellar. A-

2000 Jean-Philipe Fichet 1er Cru les Referts
In contrast with the de Montille, this one was leaner, quite hollow, oily, but with plenty of lime notes. A little clunky. B

Chassagne-Montrachet
2005 Dom. Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche
The buttery nose did not show in the more mineral and young palate. Nicely smooth, though, with a refreshing white fruit and terroir complexity. A-

2009 Fontaine Gagnard 1er Cru les Caillerets
Green apple, steeely, very young. More rustic than the Drouhin and had more citrus, lemon rind taste. I kinda liked the backwardness and potential. B+


The reds

Beaune / Pommard / Volnay

2005 Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Greves
Some sulfur and flint on the nose which showed fresh croissant at some point. Very forward and quite accessible with raspberries and other red fruit, along with earthy notes. A bit too big and juicy at this stage. B

2005 Francois Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens
Dependable and more seasoned attendees declared this as corked. NR

2002 Vincent Girardin Pommard 1er Cru les Epenots
Plenty of ripeness and also another accessible wine. Not as complex as I would normally seek out in Pinot from Burgundy. B-

2001 Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans
A very young wine with good length, that still displayed raw masculine power and tight balance. I like the structure and I’m confident this will get better with more cellar time. B

1999 Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans
Elegance defines this wine with high level of acidity, plump red fruit, a nice tinge of green notes. A pleasure to drink tonight. A-

1976 Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru
Perfumed floral, fresh meat and sweet confection interplays on the appealing nose. Herbs, sour cherries, a long finish rounds out this excellent wine that had barely shown any faded or overly tertiary character tonight. A-

1990 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches
Beautiful bouquet with ripe fruit and baked pies. Good dose of tannin, just as I seem to find in a few good 1990’s CdBs even today, this wine showed finesse, a touch of tea, and good tight structure. Medium length in finish. B+


Back to whites (with cheese course)

Corton-Charlemagne
2008 Hospices de Beaune (Faiveley) Cuvee Francois de Salins
Fresh-baked confection and some wood in the bouquet. Pineapple and some other tropical citrus-based fruit. Drinking rather well. B+

2006 Dom. Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne
Quite harsh with more vegetal green character. If I had some, I’d probably hold off and let aging tame it down some more. B-


Dessert wine

1989 Do. Cauhape Jurancon Quintessence du Petit Manseng
Dark amber in color. This smelled much like a nice Sauternes with strong crème brulee notes. Just the right level of sweetness with layers of nice flavor including ripe pineapple and brown sugar. A lovely wine. Thanks to Suzanne, we didn’t end up drinking Pommard with our desserts. A-