TN: 15+ years 95+ RP Bordeaux dinner at Ruth’s Chris, Tysons

[DCWINO]

15+ YEARS 95+ RP BORDEAUX DINNER AT RUTH’S CHRIS, TYSONS - Ruth’s Chris, Tysons Corner, VA (2/26/2012)

RJ, Jim C and I planned the dinner only a week prior and most regulars weren’t able to join. We were joined by Scott H, a new member of the group. The last early 4 pm dinner held at Ruth’s Chris was a major success as we had ample time to leisurely enjoy the wines as they evolved and developed with air. I assumed this would be another great serious yet casual dinner until RJ pulled out a bottle of the 82 Latour which made it a bit more serious and a bit less casual, j/k. All the wines showed well and although we only had five Bordeauxs, they comprehensively covered various styles of Bordeaux. The 90 Château Troplong Mondot, extremely ripe and almost port like, the 96 La Mondotte, fully matured sensual garagiste right banker, the 95 Pichon Lalande, very fresh, slightly green traditional claret, the 05 Pape Clement, very modern, big but fresh graves and the 82 Latour, classic grand vin and quintessential Pauillac.
Whites

• 2009 Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Dominant honeysuckle note upon opening. Seashell, quite mineral, bright acidity as well as jalapeno. The palate is clean, mineral, although nowhere near the Auberts, and oily and displays bright acidity. This is somewhat restrained style and especially at the moment. With time, the fruit becomes slightly more expressive, white peaches and pears. It shows a bit more balance. It is interesting to compare against the very expressive 07 which displays more ripe tropical fruits. The alcohol is noticeable for me despite the dense fruits. Impressive wine but my sensitivity to alcohol makes the wine less enjoyable. If one enjoys Kongsgaard style, the rating would be at least 2 points higher I imagine. (93 pts.)
• 2007 Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge - USA, California, Napa Valley
  This is at its peak. Very expressive nose displays mango, papaya, apple, bubblegum and ginger candy. The palate is unctuous. Very impressive fully matured Californian Chardonnay that will not benefit from additional cellaring. (95 pts.)
• 1987 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Started all Sauvignon grassy nose, kiwi and bell pepper. With time more mint, lemon, lanoline and clove. It is a lovely rich wine with bright acidity. (93 pts.)

St. Emilion

• 1996 La Mondotte - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
  Upon opening at home for a quick double decanting, a bit disjointed, not expressive and a hint of VA which caused me to take the 05 Pape Clement as a backup bottle. I jot down violet and RJ said the same. The nose displays violet, very ripe black fruits, plum, chocolate, mocha and milk. The palate is unctuous and extremely silky. It is a sensual wine that has been drinking beautifully since the release. It is the most matured of the top 96 Bordeauxs. The nose is not as expressive as the previous bottles, 96-98 pts, as it shows a hint of VA that masks the freshness in fruit expression. Fully matured. (93 pts.)
• 1990 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Very port like, licorice, raisins and ripe black fruits. It seems a bit disjointed at the moment and will need additional 10 years of cellaring. The fruit is ample but the ripe port aspects need to be sort out. It is not unlike the 03 Pavie in style. (92 pts.)

Pauillac

• 1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Showing extremely youthful. Ample primary red fruits with a hint of blackberries, earth and noticeable bell pepper. The palate starts soft and ends with a hint of tannins. Medium concentration with bright acidity. Since 1980 Pichon Lalandes seem to emphasize the freshness and in this case definitely a note of green. This bottle still needs another five to ten years. (92 pts.)
• 1982 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Pop and pour, the nose is a quintessential Pauillac, lead pencil, cedar, leather, truffle, cassis and earth. Purchased by RJ in 1986, the color is very youthful. Extremely silky and weightless palate but also shows strong tannin presence. This particular bottle drinks very young and a great example of grand vin claret. Still a long life ahead. (97 pts.)

Graves

• 2005 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Although very young, impressive showing of fresh blueberries, blackberry jam, licorice, violet, ash and earth. The oak component has been nicely integrated and there is definitely noticeable grave note expressed in ash and earth. The palate displays excellent concentration, silky texture and nice integrated tannins. As expected, big and youthful. Some may love to hate this wine but this wine is very promising. It will require a couple hours of decanting but is open for business with the ample jammy primary fruits. (95 pts.)

Sauternes

• 1988 Château Raymond-Lafon - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  The 88 Sauternes in general are pretty fat and this is no exception. A hint of petrol, apricot and yellow peach. The palate displays impressive concentration, oily texture and bright acidity. A very good sauternes but seems a bit too fat/flat at the moment. It may still need a few more years to become more precise. It is still very enjoyable nevertheless. (93 pts.)

RJ mentioned that this is the only bottle of the 82 Latour he owned. That was one heck of generous act. When we were all done, four grown men had spent five hours drinking and talking about wines. Another wonderful dinner!
Posted from CellarTracker

[Michael Malinoski]

An enjoyable read--thanks for the outstanding notes. I agree with your descriptions of the 90 Troplong as a porty, raisiny wine, but I, for one, am not entirely sure it will sort itself out. I'd like to be proved wrong...

Jealous of the 82 Latour!

-Michael

[dstgolf]

Sounds like a great time. 9 bottles for 4 grown men?? Wow! Getting a little too much for my liking but I'd love to have had the opportunity to try. Not a weak bottle in the lineup with the Pape Clement seeming to shine once again. Sad to say I've only had the pleasure of trying the 82 Latour twice both courtesy of the generous BWE'ers at previous conventions. Still remember how outstanding it was on both occasions!

Thanks

[JonB]

Great notes, thanks!

While I haven't tried the 1990 TM, I enjoyed the 2005 at a UGC event and ended up with a fair stash of this. While I didn't think it seemed porty, it was on the heavy bodied side, and mostly shrouded in baby fat so was difficult to read, but it had lively acidity while being fruit forward. I hope in 2027 that the 2005 shows better!