After suffering from allergy, I was relieved to head to Bordeaux. Despite having to book two separate flights, my trip was going well until I found out that my luggage didn’t arrive. Then no GPS to rent meant my trip to Chateau Siaurac became an adventure as my brain was in sleep mode considering it was 3 am eastern time. Thankfully I had a printout of the direction and with God’s help, I arrived at the Chateau.
Paul the proprietor kindly greeted me to my room and I just crashed for a couple hours.
Visiting St Emilion
Kelly talking to Paul woke me up. Kelly was in better shape than I. We sat out on the lawn as it was a glorious day. Unfortunately the pollen count was as high as in DC. After enjoying the sun for awhile, we headed to St Emillion. It is becoming a ritual that we go to the wine bar where Alain Vauthier and other vignerons hang out daily. Kelly ordered 2008 J.M. Boillot Chassagne-Montrachet which once again confirmed that the 08 whites are great.
- 2008 J.M. Boillot Chassagne-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (3/29/2012)
A great village wine. Very bright, pure and precise. The fruit expression is a bit simple but very enjoyable. (90 pts.)
Six of us sat down for a late dinner. The dinner at the Chateau Siaurac is always wonderful and this was no exception. We started with a nice pate that went well with the 2003 Göttelmann Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Spätlese. The dinner was a slowly cooked young veal dish with vegetables that were wonderful.
- 2003 Göttelmann Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (3/29/2012)
The producer that is new to me, a wine given to Paul by Otto Geisel, a fellow GJE member and German wine expert. Fat, unctuous, only a slight hint of petrol, ripe peach, mango and a small amount of seashell. Very enjoyable wine with less than 9% alcohol. If the wine can be this good at Spatlese level from 2003, I wonder what a great vintage Auslese will be like. (93 pts.) - 1983 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (3/29/2012)
The first night, reductive, a bit like a Chateau Chalon with some dirty damped cellar smell. It is a bit nutty with lemon oil. Roberto who imports Rayas to Italy told us that Jacques Reynaud told him that the white will show 24 hours of air. The next day, very clean and pure, mostly yellow fruits and almond oil. The first night 92 but the second 95. (95 pts.) - 1992 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Blanc Château de Fonsalette Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (3/29/2012)
Clean, forward fruit, lemon oil. Not as dense and complex as the Rayas. Much more approachable. Bright acidity. (91 pts.) - 1982 Château Vray Croix de Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3/29/2012)
All tertiary notes but lacking fruits and need to be drunk. (85 pts.)
The 08 CRD wines were easier to taste than the 07s. The 08s in general seem to show fresh fruits and good structure. Unfortunately more than half of them displayed dry tannins and some chateaus extracted too much and used the new oak which made the tannins even drier. If you are interested in buying the 08 CRDs, I would only buy those who got good scores from all the critics and cellar them for minimum of ten years.
On Friday night, Chateau Siaurac kindly hosted GJE members and the CRD producers for a wonderful dinner. After finishing a glass of the 86 Comtes de Champagne, some of GJE members had a mini session to drink the Coche and the Gaja. After the dinner, we also drank the Egon Muller and the Dunn.
- 1986 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne (3/30/2012)
Drinking nicely, apple pie, some brioche and apple cider. Creamy, Good concentration and acidity. This bottle is fully matured. (93 pts.) - 2008 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (3/30/2012)
What a wonderful showing! A great example of the 08 and Coche. We all agree that this showed the strong Coche signature. Start with a hint of sesame coming from toasted oak, white pears, very primary hence mostly white fruits with a bit of yellow, bright acidity and long finish. Very expressive and precise. (95 pts.) - 1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (3/30/2012)
This is a wow wine for me. Powerful and expressive nose reveals; dry cherries, wet tobacco, leather, iodine, bitter chocolate and orange rind. The palate displays sweet dry fruits, bright acidity and noticeable tannins. I am aware that Gaja is quite controversial but I am not so sure how one can dislike this. (98 pts.) - 1969 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/30/2012)
I was really looking forward to drink this bottle but even Egon Muller can't overcome the vintage. There is airy texture that I get from his wine. Good freshness, yellow fruits but lacks the depth. Still quite enjoyable. (92 pts.) - 1992 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (3/30/2012)
I no longer have to say that I have never had a Dunn that is ready to drink. Very expressive nose of mostly black fruits, licorice, a hint of green, eucalyptus and bitter chocolate. Although the expression is very masculine, the palate is silky and fresh with noticeable tannins that are not obtrusive. A great showing of this monumental wine. (96 pts.)
The Saturday dinner was hosted by always kind Catherine Péré-Vergé. We first tasted the 11s at the chai. After tasting the 08 Lindaflor La Violeta, Kelly and I agree that this may be a great ringer to a cult cab blind tasting. The dinner wines were two vintages of Le Gay and Montviel which showed well.
*I ran into Neal Martin who was hard at work. He took a while to taste through the 11 and the property’s Argentine wines, joining the dinner only at the last moment as the last guest.
- 2011 Château La Gravière - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lalande de Pomerol (3/31/2012)
Blueberry jam, flower, violet, ripe, gravel, medium concentration, showing tannins at the end. (88 pts.) - 2011 Château Montviel - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3/31/2012)
This is more floral than the La Graviere. Showing nice mineral components, blue flowers, fresh blue fruits. Noticeable structure. Based on my experience, this ages quite nicely showing typical Pomerol characters. (90 pts.) - 2011 Manoir de Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3/31/2012)
This is why Francois says buy big wines in small vintages. Definitely less concentrated and soft than the 10. Jammy, soft, flower, early drinking. (87 pts.) - 2011 Château Le Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3/31/2012)
Crushed blueberries, cassis, stem and truffle. Although obviously the primary fruit driven, the structure is quite noticeable. Sensual, silky, cool and fresh. Excellent showing and I prefer this to the 10. (94 pts.) - 2011 Château La Violette - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3/31/2012)
The best way for me to describe this wine is more garagiste than the Le Gay. Blue and black fruits, most intense blueberry jam and milk chocolate. The tannin is slightly softer and the texture more silkier than the Le Gay. Another great showing. (96 pts.) - 2008 Bodegas Monteviejo Malbec Lindaflor - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Vista Flores (3/31/2012)
Big, blueberry jam, unctuous, silky tannins. (93 pts.) - 2008 Bodegas Monteviejo Malbec Lindaflor La Violeta - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Vista Flores (3/31/2012)
This is a perfect technical modern cult wine, big scale, fresh fruits, a hint of sugar, chewy, oily, unctuous and the tannin is not noticeable due to the fruit concentration. It may be undrinkable to some. (96 pts.)
I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness and concentration but as noted by others, a lot showed dry tannins. The highest rating for me was around 94. I clearly preferred Pomerol. Overall, Jeff Leve’s assessment is right on the money.
For the past three vintages, I tasted the wines consulted by Stephane Derenoncourt, Michel Rolland and Hubert de Bouard. Stephane’s wines are always fresher and in 2011 the tannins are rounder while showing the freshness. All the wines of Stephane showed well.
- 2011 Château Montviel - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Fresh, mineral, sweet black fruits. (90 pts.) - 2011 Château Le Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Silky, sweet, mushroom, complex nose, earth, mineral. Silky texture and excellent concentration. (94 pts.) - 2011 Château La Violette - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Cool fruit expression. Violet, lavender and coffee. Silky fruits but noticeable tannins as the end note. (95 pts.)
Alexandre was clearly excited about the 11. I enquired about the 10 and he kindly poured the wine.
- 2011 Vieux Château Certan - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Big scale wine, not unlike the 10 but definitely noticeable flowery character coming from Cab franc. Nice silky palate, freshness and noticeable tannins. (96 pts.) - 2011 Château Le Pin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Surprisingly showing a lot of structure, noticeable tannins, crushed berries, mineral, fresh and excellent concentration. (95 pts.) - 2010 Vieux Château Certan - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Licorice, black fruits, truffle, flowers, crushed rocks, incredible core energy. Extremely silky palate and no sign of tannins due to the concentrated fruits. One of those rare wines that lifts your spirit. (100 pts.)
The wines of Gerard Perse are quite fresh.
- 2011 Clos Les Lunelles - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Côtes de Castillon (4/1/2012)
Dark fruits, blackberry jam, licorice, highly extracted, noticeable oak, dry tannins. (89 pts.) - 2011 Château Monbousquet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Sweet, licorice, cassis, violet, surprisingly well maintained tannins. Very modern but showing well. (92 pts.) - 2011 Château Pavie Decesse - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Crushed blueberries, nice freshness, big, highly concentrated, noticeable tannins but not obtrusive. Showing more freshness than the 10. (95 pts.) - 2011 Château Bellevue Mondotte - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Big, ripe, licorice, cassis, slightly bitter finish with noticeable dry tannins. (94 pts.) - 2011 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Crushed blueberries, blackberries, cassis and violet. Fresh fruit expression, not overdone, noticeable dry tannins. (96 pts.)
- 2011 Château La Fleur de Boüard - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lalande de Pomerol (4/1/2012)
The wine that I liked in the 09 and 10 but not so this time. Soft, medium concentration and dry tannins. (88 pts.) - 2011 Château La Pointe - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Fresh blue fruits, blueberry jam, slightly vegetal and dry tannins. (88 pts.) - 2011 Château Angélus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Crushed blueberries, blue fruits, cassis, excellent concentration, sweet fruits, a hint of bitterness, nicely integrated tannins. (94 pts.)
As I mentioned before, I have been very impressed by the wines that are consulted by Stephane. The wines seem to carry more freshness while not losing the sweet fruits. If these wines are the good communal representation, Grave and the right banks have done extremely well where the left bank have done very poorly.
*I initially considered not scoring the wines of Boxwood but ended up posting my ratings so that hopefully people will not waste their money. It is close to undrinkable.
- 2011 Château Jean Faux - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur (4/1/2012)
Ripe, licorice, black fruits, rose, riper style (90 pts.) - 2011 Château Moulins-Listrac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Puisseguin-St. Émilion (4/1/2012)
Coffee, licorice, a hint of oak, silky palate, excellent concentration. (91 pts.) - 2011 Château Vrai Canon Bouché - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Canon-Fronsac (4/1/2012)
Big blue fruits, flowers, excellent concentration, chewy, mineral. (91 pts.) - 2011 Domaine de l'A - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Côtes de Castillon (4/1/2012)
Clean, silky, bright acidity, cool impression, will drink well young. A step down from the 10. (88 pts.) - 2011 Château Petit Village - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (4/1/2012)
Cool fruit expression, crushed blueberries, medium concentration, noticeable tannins. (91 pts.) - 2011 Château Lucia - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Cool, fresh, sweet fruits, excellent concentration. (93 pts.) - 2011 Château Godeau - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Black fruits, licorice, very ripe, silky and unctuous (92 pts.) - 2011 Château la Bienfaisance Sanctus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
licorice, excellent concentration, ripe fruit, very little acidity. I prefer the 10. (92 pts.) - 2011 Château Rol Valentin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Not the level of the 09 and the 10. Fresh, blueberry driven, silky palate but noticeable tannins. (92 pts.) - 2011 Château La Tour Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Ripe fruits, licorice, blackberries, silky (92 pts.) - 2011 Château Larcis Ducasse - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Perhaps the ripest example of the portfolio, big, licorice, cassis, also minerality. (93 pts.) - 2011 Château La Gaffelière - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Truffle, big, mint, silky, excellent concentration, showing better than the 10. (94 pts.) - 2011 Clos Fourtet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Fresh blackberries, jammy, fresh, sweet fruits, excellent concentration and structured, everything is under control. (95 pts.) - 2011 Château Pavie Macquin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
The fruit expression is fresher than the Clos Fourtet, also very sweet palate impression, flowers, crushed berries, nice minerality. (95 pts.) - 2011 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/1/2012)
Cassis, blackberries, bitter chocolate, crushed pepper. Sensual, extremely silky, excellent concentration and a hint of tannins as the end note. (97 pts.) - 2011 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (4/1/2012)
Perhaps the surprise of the 11 EP, one of my top three, fresh, mineral, flower, excellent balance and freshness, silky palate, nicely integrated tannins. Very complex yet fresh wine. A perfect example of Graves. (97 pts.) - 2011 Château Smith Haut Lafitte - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (4/1/2012)
Fresh blue fruits, silky palate, very well made wine. (93 pts.) - 2011 Château Branas Grand-Poujeaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (4/1/2012)
Fresh, jammy, blueberry jam, excellent showing amongst the big boys. (91 pts.) - 2011 Château Prieuré-Lichine - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (4/1/2012)
Very poor showing compare to the right bankers, thinner, red fruits, a hint of green, a big angular. (86 pts.) - 2011 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (4/1/2012)
A bit thin, mint, sweet red fruits, dry tannins. (85 pts.) - 2011 Boxwood Winery Topiary - USA, Virginia (4/1/2012)
I wish I like this wine more but I truly believe my score is generous. Thin and watery. (60 pts.) - 2011 Boxwood Winery Boxwood - USA, Virginia (4/1/2012)
I wish I like this wine more but I truly believe my score is generous. Thin and watery. (60 pts.)