I was invited to George B’s house for the blind steak challenge. Ten of us were served ribeyes; the Capital grille select, Pat LaFrieda, Lobel, Brandt Brothers, Roseda Angus from Roots, Bryan Flannery, Ceriello and Allen Brothers. A former restaurateur and current wine and food importer Mr. Steve Ward did a great job grilling the meats with evoo olive oil, sea salt and black pepper. We voted for the best steak and perhaps no surprised to most of you, it was Bryan Flannery with six first place votes followed by Ceriello’s. Brandt and Allen Bros were at the bottom. My favorite steak was Bryan Flannery. This being our inaugural steak off, we had a slight logistical difficult which resulted in steaks ranging from blue to little more than medium rare.
Now the wines, the 92 Togni en Magnum was flirting with perfection, singular expression of a great cab. The 03 Pavie showed so fresh, a monumental wine. The 00 Giacosa Falletto and Asili red labels served at the end clearly demonstrated the typical profile of these two great vineyards.
Champagnes
- 1996 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame - France, Champagne
Two bottles were opened with consistent notes. Fully matured yet fresh, orange rind, apricot, ginger, brioche and apple compote. Delicate fine mousse makes the wine airy and enjoyable. Drinking beautifully. deeply toned sweet yellow fruits, airy palate, creamy with bright acidity. (96 pts.) - 1999 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année - France, Champagne
Fat fruit expression that one expects from the 99, fresh, steely, brioche and lemon zest. Fat and only a hint of acidity. A few more years of cellaring is required. Not as enjoyable as the 96 Grande Dame. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Tasting it none-blind, clearly from a weaker vintage as the fruit expression is not showing the GC complexity. Fully matured, light caramel, cherry, forest floors and earth. The finish clips abruptly as the wine is slightly madeirized. A correct example without the sign of oxidation would be a low 90 pointer. (87 pts.) - 1983 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
From a HDH auction lot consisting 10 bottles and 1 mag of the 83 Chave. All with great fills, almost no gap to the cork and always consistent showing. Very clean nose with ash, raspberry jam, cherry, sun dried tomatoe, rare charred steak, garrigue and earth. Fully matured, bright acidity and fully integrated tannins. This is where I believe once palate preference matters as at this stage the palate texture is very Burgundian (the nose is classic Chave hermitage) and no obvious concentrated fruits a la El Nido. I would imagined this was never a perfect wine but a perfectly matured Chave at perfect drinking window. (95 pts.)
- 2002 Bodegas El Nido Jumilla El Nido - Spain, Murcia, Jumilla
The bottles appearance tells it all, oversized everything with gaudy impression. Still noticeable oak, dark cherries, black fruits with a hint of red, caramel, bitter chocolate and vanilla. The palate displays impressive concentration, sweet sugary fruits, creamy texture and noticeable tannins. The finish has slight bitterness that is bothersome. This will require at least ten more years to resolve/subdue the oak. Although impressive, I am not a big fan. One must have high tolerance for oak to appreciate this massive wine. I can see why some may rate this in the middle 90s. (91 pts.) - 2001 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
A lot softer compare to the 02 El Nido. Warm red fruits, red cherries, anise, cedar and sauté mushroom. Soft and subtle palate with fully integrated tannins. Drinking nicely. (92 pts.)
- 1999 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Pop and pour. Baked fruits, cherry, dusty earth, fresh tobacco, tar, chestnut and milk chocolate. The palate is a bit dusty with bright acidity and noticeable but none-obtrusive tannins. I would definitely recommend a couple hours of decanting and serve with a grilled meat. (92 pts.) - 1998 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
A lot softer impression than the 99 Silvio, strawberry, red fruits, raisin, leather and cedar. Not one element that sticks out, harmonious and drinking nicely at the moment. (93 pts.)
- 1990 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Luxurious and opulent somehow come to my mind. Very youthful example, polished fruits, dry cherries, caramel and latte. Bright sweet fruits and integrated tannins. Drinking nicely. (92 pts.) - 1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Although a youthful example, the fruit is mostly dry kinds, dry cherries, a hint of black fruits, licorice, cedar and autumn leaves. Nice layered fruits and integrated tannins. Drinking nicely at the moment. (92 pts.)
- 1996 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Very harmonious, subtle and controlled impression. Black fruits, a hint of violet and earth. Medium concentration, silky palate and integrated tannins. Very well made subtle wine with nice balance but not exciting especially compare to the 92 Phillip Togni. (93 pts.) - 1992 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
I recently had the 97 which was extremely youthful and impressive. This was served en Magnum, Wow! The flowery perfume nose that one only gets from a great cabernet sauvignon, dark fruits, lead pencil, cassis and cedar. The nose is simply magical. Although very youth in this format, the palate is seamless, silky and has extremely long finish. The nose is very similar to Grace family cab but more floral, fresher and more expressive. My cellar is over 90% French but this is a great wine. Mesmerizing! (98 pts.) - 1993 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley
In great harmony as the wine is nicely matured. Very clean nose, cassis, dill, a hint of leather and lactic. Excellent concentration, sweet fruits, silky texture and fully integrated tannins. A great drinking mature Cab. (95 pts.)
- 2003 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
I had my share of the 03 Pavie and it is a chameleon. Every bottle seems to be slightly different. This is one of the best showings as the fruit expression is cool. Certainly ripe and big but not overdone. Blue to black fruits, crème de cassis, licorice, mineral and lavender. Very cool palate impression, silky but precise and noticeable tannins. Extremely impressive showing. (97 pts.) - 2003 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
A classic example of the 03 left banker and the first thing comes to my mind is the 03 Leoville Barton but slightly sweeter. Cassis, black fruit, cedar, espresso, light caramel and a hint of mint. Excellent concentration, silky creamy palate and long finish. As usual, only a hint of green coming from not achieving perfect phenolic maturity which is not bothersome. The 03 St. Juliens start to resemble the 90s with the sweet dark fruit expression and very round silky mouthfeel but a hint of green gives additional freshness and complexity. Excellent showing. (95 pts.)
- 1998 d'Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
This aged gracefully, relatively speaking of course, as it is a quintessential aussie shiraz. Mint dominates, also black fruits, smoked meat and sweet spices may be nutmeg. Nice concentration, silky palate and fully integrated tannins. The fruit expression is a bit simple but drinking nicely. (92 pts.) - 2005 Mollydooker Enchanted Path - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
This hasn’t aged as graciously as the 98 Dead Arm. Big, overripe, extremely sweet fruit but also too soft. It also has a bitter finish. (88 pts.)
- 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Very tight, still way too young. This displays deeper and darker fruit expression with noticeable licorice, caramel and balsamic note. Excellent concentration and extremely sweet fruits. This day, the Asili was preferred slightly as it was more open. (96 pts.) - 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Not as tight as the Falletto Riserva but still way too young nevertheless. This displays bright red fruits, fresh cherries, strawberries, mushroom and earth. Very precise and linear yet extremely sweet, pure and pretty. Impressive yet enjoyable! (97 pts.)
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