We had a last minute gathering at Harth Restaurant. The chef promotes from the farm to the table movement and the dishes are simple but flavorful. Unfortunately a couple of the appetizers were poorly executed, ie under seasoned and boiled instead of grilled. The wines however showed beautifully. We started with the 09 Rochioli SB that seem a bit too acidic and out of balance at the moment.
Starter
- 1996 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A great mature example, the reason why some of us are addicted to white Burgundy. Very fresh, youthful and precise, a hint of beeswax, wet stone, lemon, a hint of tropical fruit and honey showing the age. Nice lean palate but complex expression and bright acidity. Very precise, linear wine with just right amount of supporting not so obvious fruits, the reason why I love the 96 white burgundy when not premoxed. (93 pts.)
- 1992 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
This is very similar to the 93. Pop and pour, cassis dominates than a hint of cedar, plum and ash. Nice silky palate, sweet jammy fruits and fully integrated sweet tannins. Elliot mentioned a slightly bitter end note that clips the finish and I completely agree. I also found the bitter end note in the 93. Fully matured but still youthful fruit expression and very enjoyable. (94 pts.) - 1989 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Fully matured mostly tertiary, a hint of cassis, lead pencil, cedar, ash and a hint of cordier funk. A bit lean classic claret palate but seamless, integrated tannins and lasting finish. It is slightly green and stemmy which adds additional complexity. Quite enjoyable. (92 pts.) - 1990 Château Rausan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
A great example of the 90 left bank Bordeaux. Hedonistic warm ripe fruits, a hint of licorice, caramel, cedar, leather and fresh lavender. I find this very similar to the 90 Leoville Poyferre in hedonistic ripe fruit expression, perhaps slightly less concentrated and lighter impression but additional floral element that I find in Margaux wines. Very complex, seamless wine that is drinking magnificently. (95 pts.)
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