Livin' la vida Lucca. Lucchesi wines, anyone?

[Ramon_NYC]

A Visit to Tenuta di Valgiano, Lucca
08/15/2012

Right after a light, but delicious lunch in Lucca, a few of us headed to this small operation located at about 15 minutes drive into the north-east hills, within the Colline Lucchesi DOC. This highly-anticipated visit proved to be an excellent introduction to most of us who, admittedly, have close to zero experience with wines from Tuscany’s Colline Lucchesi DOC. The centerpiece of the winery is a handsome 16th century villa perched on a plateau that included a beautiful manicured garden that overlooked a sweeping view of the Lucchesi hills, as well as of the walled town of Lucca. As was explained and shown to us by our guide/host, Stefano, the farming method is run on biodynamic principles, while retaining as much traditional method in the wine-making processes which includes the stomping of the grapes.

Tasting was conducted in 2 sections of the property. First was in the cellar where we sampled wines straight from the vat and second was in a very relaxed and conducive setting in the beautiful garden that overlook the hills.

Short notes on wines tasted from the vats in the cellar:

2010 Tenuta di Valigiano Palistorti Rosso
An approachable wine featuring layers of ripe strawberries and red currant. Medium-bodied with a good dose of acidity. Easy on the mouth feel. Lengthy finish. 70% Sangiovese and the rest are equal parts merlot and syrah.

2011 Tenuta di Valgiano Palistorti Rosso
Much more perfumed than the 2010. Young and tannic, but did not hide the earthiness and more pronounced minerality and complexity that this showed when compared to the 2010. A big wine that also showed good length. I liked this a little more.


With fresh local cheeses and bread in a beautiful serene garden setting on a slightly warm, but comfortable Tuscan summer day, we were treated to a tasting of the following bottled wines:

2011 Tenuta di Valgiano Bianco
Made mostly with Vermentino grape, with a bit of Trebbiano, Chardonnay and some other white grapes, this was such a pleasant surprise such that it turned out to be a bit of a disappointment for me when I wine-searched for any local (U.S.) source and came up blank. Lemony acidity with melon notes and plenty of mineral components. I truly enjoyed this wine, with its long finish. A-

2010 Tenuta di Valgiano Palistorti Rosso
Compared to the earlier sample from the vat, the bottled version had a more evolved bouquet with ripe fruit, earth and freshly-baked confection. Just as the vat sample, this one also glided easily and drank nicely. Soft, with more raspberry and strawberry flavors. B

2009 Tenuta di Valgiano Colline Lucchesi
This is the winery’s flagship wine that, relative to the base Palistorti bottling, had higher components of syrah and merlot added to 60% Sangiovese. Youthful but definitely much more elegant and showed more completeness than the Palistorti. Purple-tinged in color, this was a muscular wine that with more complexity showing fresh herb, mineral, and meat in its flowery bouquet. Quite feminine. I liked. A-

1994 Vin Santo di Valgiano
Made of Colombrano (sp/) grape. A last-minute treat by our guide as procured an opened and nicely-chilled 50cl bottle from the properties’ main kitchen, this brownish-gold dessert wine had a thick texture that was highlighted by notes of molasses and apple pie, even as it was still highly acidic in character. I don’t recall the last vin santo I’ve had but this was quite impressive. B+

[Tom In DC]

Thanks for the notes, Ramon. To liberally paraphrase the world's most interesting man, we don't always drink Sauternes for dessert, but when we don't, it's often vin Santo.

As much of an Italophile as I might be, I am also not familiar with many wines from the foothills of the Alps north of Lucca; however, I can attest to how beautiful the area is!

[Ramon_NYC]

Not quite in the same level as the natural artwork that, say, Chianti Classico region is, but I agree, Tom, that the more rugged Lucchesi hills are still quite a site indeed.

[Tom In DC]

I'll agree that the typical Chianti postcard scene is artwork, but there is very little that is natural about it. After thousands of years of human influence, the placement of every rock and plant reflects the hand of man.

[Ramon_NYC]

So the Chianti postcard is akin to the Parkerized version of the landscape, then.