St. Emilion Classification

[Jeff Leve]

The new official, 2012 St. Emilion reclassification is almost here. The 2012 Bordeauxharvest has also started for the picking of the white wines. It’s a big week in Bordeaux.

The official results of the new, 2012 St. Emilion reclassification are expected this week. In fact, the announcement could come out as early as tomorrow! What do we expect to see? Keep in mind, this is just a guess. I do not have early results. Based on knowing the wines and wineries, this is a forward look at what could happen.

Generally speaking, more properties will receive higher classifications and very few estates will be downgraded. Before we get to specifics, let’s look back at how we got here in the first place.

The previous efforts at reclassifying the wines of St. Emilion created a fight that ended up in the French courts. Some chateau sued due their being declassified in the 2006 reclassification. After years of bitter litigation, the final judgment of the court stated that 72 chateau were given the right to temporarily include the words, “Cru Classe’” on their labels through 2011. However, in 2012, another, newer, and hopefully, official, binding classification would take place. The 2012 St. Emilion classification would remain in place for 10 years. To read about the current St. Emilion Classification: List of current St. Emilion Classifications


For the 2012 St. Emilion Classification, a total of 96 different chateaux applied for the new Classification. Out of those 96 different wineries, 28 sought “Premier Grand Cru Classe’” status while 68 other wineries requested the “Grand Cru Classe’”Classification. 2 or more estates also sought to join the rarified status of Premiers Grands Cru Classe A classification that has since inception only included Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone. From the original list of 96 aspirants, 13 were disqualified for unknown reasons. A total of 83 estates were included in the classification.

The number of estates seeking to be classified or to have their classification elevated is a large increase from the number of chateaux in the current St. Emilion Classification; which includes 2 “Grand Cru Classe’ A” wines, 15 classified “Premier Grand Cru Classé” estates and 61 ”Cru Classé” producers. There is no classification in Pomerol. GravesPessac Leognan was most recently classified in 1959. We are all familiar with the untouchable 1855 classification of the best wines from the Medoc. St. Emilion is the only major appellation to reclassify their Bordeaux wine producers every ten years.


This unique changing of the classification status every ten years is what lead to the recent wave of lawsuits, To avoid the same results of ending up in court, which is what happened after the last St. Emilion classification, a new system was put into place that is supposed to be impartial. To achieve those results, the INAO put together a team of 7 people from a myriad of different backgrounds and with no official connection to the Bordeaux wine industry. The diverse selection of members making up the team are: Mr. Tinlot (president), Mr.Guigal (Rhone Valley), Mr. Brugnon (Champagne), Mr. Drouhin (Burgundy), Mr. Vinet (Muscadet), Mr. Bronzo (Côtes de Provence), and Mr. Faure-Brac (sommelier).

The St. Emilion Classification will be based on tasting the wines and visits to each property seeking to have their wines classified. The Classification will not be cheap. All the 96 entrants will provided funding, based on the level of classification they seek. Chateaux seeking “Grand Cru Classé” status paid 6,000 Euros. Chateaux hoping to achieve “Premier Grand Cru Classé” status paid 7,500 Euros.

A jury of 12 impartial tasters was e put together to taste and score the St. Emilion wines on a scale of 20 points. Chateaux desiring “Grand Cru Classé” status provided the 10 most vintages of their wines for the tasting. Chateaux seeking “Premier Grand Cru Classé” status provided the 15 most vintages of their wines to be tasted. It was decided and agreed on in advance that chateau scoring 14/20 will be awarded “Grand Cru Classé” status and estates earning at least 16/20 will have the right to place “Premier Grand Cru Classé” on their labels. Other criteria was also considered, for example the judges reviewed the terroir and vineyards, wine making facilities, press comments, efforts at tourism and the cellars and cellaring conditions.
Rumors are, people are getting ready to complain about the results as the tasters did not come St. Emilion or even Bordeaux!

With all this in mind, here’s a guess at what could, or should happen when the official results are finally released.

Chateau Pavie and Chateau Angelus could both be elevated to Premiers Grands Crus Classe A status! Keep in mind, part of what goes into having an estate worthy of that rarified level of Classification is the quality of the reception area. Have you seen all the construction that has been taking place at Chateau Angelus and Chateau Pavie? Plus the quality of both wines has been remarkably consistent of the past 20 years. While it’s of no merit to many people, the elevation of Chateau Pavie would be a feather in the hat of Robert Parker, as he has remained the number one supporter of the efforts that Gerard Perse has put into Chateau Pavie. Other critics have lambasted the wines of Pavie, but Parker has remained steadfast.

“Premier Grand Cru Classé” status should be awarded to some wineries. Their level of quality over the past 15 years has been very high. Before we start with who should be elevated, who deserves to be downgraded? While I do not expect any estate to be demoted from “Premier Grand Cru Classé, based on the quality of the wines produced over the past 15 years. As well as their selling price, Trotte Vieille and Magdelaine do not produce wine at the level of the other members of the club. While Beausejour Duffau made what could be contenders of wine of the vintage for St. Emilion in 2009 and 2010, they have been an underperformer since 1990. The same can be said for Belair Monage. It’s a difficult call for both estates. If the judgment truly reflects the past 15 vintages, there’s an issue. But the wines produced since Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt at Beausejour Duffau joined the winemaking team have been nothing short of stellar. Chateau Belair Monage since 2008, following the change in management to Ets Moueix have also shown marked improvement.

Who should or could be elevated to “Premier Grand Cru Classé”?
Château Canon La Gaffeliere is another remarkably consistent producer that has made strong wines since 1990.

La Mondotte sits on a great terroir. The wines are stellar, mineral driven St. Emilion wines that show a level of consistency since 2000. Plus the wines sell for a lot of money in the marketplace. The estate is not currently classified.
Valandraud – With Valandraud, the wines made over the past few vintages since Murielle Andraud took over the wine making have been stellar. The selling price is also quite high. The wines have been remarkably consistent since 1995. But they have a variety of terroirs. To earn the status of Premier Grand Cru Classé, they would have to stop using some vineyards in different terroirs, which would lower the quantity of Valandraud which could serve to make the wine even better. At a minimum, Valandraud easily deserves Grand Cru Classé status. At the moment, they remain unclassified.
In the Grand Cru Classe classification, as many as 10 estates should be demoted. However, there are estates that deserve this level of classification, for example:

Barde Haut
Bellevue
Bellevue Mondotte
Clos La Madeleine
Clos St. Martin
Faugeres
Fombrauge
Fleur Cardinale
Magrez Fombrauge
Peby Faugeres
Rol Valentin – Perhaps, but their wine comes from 2 different terroirs, which is a problem.
Sansonnet

Some of the estates that should be demoted to Grands Cru, Bergat, Cadet Piola, Haut Sarpe, Laniote, Le Prieure, Matras (merged into Canon) Moulin du Cadet, Ripeau, Saint Georges-Cote Pavie

Would anyone like to wager on how many estates file an appeal? For more info on St. Emilion or the classification: www.thewinecellarinsider.com/?page_id=235

[DavidG]

Nice essay, Jeff, very interesting and informative. I'll vote for promoting Angelus to Classe A status. A consistent year-in, year-out favorite of mine since the '80s. Pavie has been awesome some years and over-the-top in others - at least to my palate. If it does get promoted, I'm not sure I would call it a feather in Parker's cap. After all, he doesn't influence the voters. Or does he? I guess I'd call it a confirmation of his adulation - by those making the classification anyway. If I were on the committee, I'd be tempted to promote Pavie if only for the controversy that would undoubtedly follow - it would guarantee a lot of attention.

The downside of promotion would be a likely increase in demand and subsequently of prices.

Can you shed any more light on why this round of classification would be any more likely to withstand legal challenge than the last classification, which was essentially "overturned on appeal?" I'm thinking the whole classification scheme is as much a political thing as a wine quality thing.

[AlexR]

Jeff,

A well-written encapsulated version of a very complicated issue and some interesting opinions.

I predict that Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte will become Premiers Crus Classés and that Faugères and Péby Faugères will be promoted Crus Classés.
Clos St. Martin is already a Cru Classé (the smallest one, in fact).
As for the others, yes, many rumors floating around.

I think you are right, that Pavie and Angélus may well be promoted to "A" status, which I think neither of them deserve because they are more powerful than elegant.

The results would be released this evening.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[AlexR]

Seems results are out already:

http://www.larvf.com/,vins-resultats-du ... 248034.asp

I'll be interested to hear your comments.
I need to look it over first.

Alex R.

[DavidG]

Anyone get demoted? That's what triggered the lawsuits last time, wasn't it?

If the only direction you can move is up, it kind of devalues the entire system, doesn't it?

[DavidG]

Appparently the Moueix estate Magdelaine got dropped entirely off the list, and there were some other demotions. Here's the list from Gil Lempert-Schwartz:

================================================

OK Folks, the wait is over...Here are the 100% OFFICIAL RESULTS of the 2012 Classification of the Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé wines (Directly from the just released official INAO list - * means Promoted:

Premier Grand Cru Classé 'A' (4)

Château ANGÉLUS *
Château AUSONE
Château CHEVAL BLANC
Château PAVIE *

Premier Grand Cru Classé B (14)

Château BEAU-SÉJOUR BÉCOT
Château BEAUSÉJOUR DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE
Château BELAIR-MONANGE
Château CANON
Château CANON-LA-GAFFELIÈRE *
Château FIGEAC
Clos FOURTET
Château LA GAFFELIÈRE
Château LA MONDOTTE *
Château LARCIS-DUCASSE
Château PAVIE-MACQUIN
Château TROPLONG-MONDOT
Château TROTTEVIEILLE
Château VALANDRAUD *


As far as I can see, that leaves only Magdelaine to be Demoted from PGCC status, but not even achieveing GCC status

Grand Cru Classé (64)

CHÂTEAU L'ARROSEE
CHÂTEAU BALESTARD LA TONNELLE
CHÂTEAU BARDE-HAUT
CHÂTEAU BELLEFONT-BELCIER
CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE
CHÂTEAU BERLIQUET
CHÂTEAU CADET-BON
CHÂTEAU CAPDEMOURLIN
CHÂTEAU LE CHATELET
CHÂTEAU CHAUVIN
CHÂTEAU CLOS DE SARPE
CHÂTEAU LA CLOTTE
CHÂTEAU LA COMMANDERIE
CHÂTEAU CORBIN
CHÂTEAU COTE DE BALEAU *
CHÂTEAU LA COUSPAUDE
CHÂTEAU DASSAULT
CHÂTEAU DESTIEUX
CHÂTEAU LA DOMINIQUE
CHÂTEAU FAUGERES *
CHÂTEAU FAURIE DE SOUCHARD
CHÂTEAU DE FERRAND *
CHÂTEAU FLEUR CARDINALE
CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE
CHÂTEAU FOMBRAUGE *
CHÂTEAU FONPLEGADE
CHÂTEAU FONROQUE
CHÂTEAU FRANC MAYNE
CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN
CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN-DESPAGNE
CHÂTEAU GRAND MAYNE
CHÂTEAU LES GRANDES MURAILLES
CHÂTEAU GRAND-PONTET
CHÂTEAU GUADET
CHÂTEAU HAUT-SARPE
CLOS DES JACOBINS
COUVENT DES JACOBINS
CHÂTEAU JEAN FAURE *
CHÂTEAU LANIOTE
CHÂTEAU LARMANDE
CHÂTEAU LAROQUE
CHÂTEAU LAROZE
CLOS LA MADELEINE
CHÂTEAU LA MARZELLE
CHÂTEAU MONBOUSQUET
CHÂTEAU MOULIN DU CADET
CLOS DE L'ORATOIRE
CHÂTEAU PAVIE DECESSE
CHÂTEAU PEBY FAUGERES *
CHÂTEAU PETIT FAURIE DE SOUTARD
CHÂTEAU DE PRESSAC *
CHÂTEAU LE PRIEURE
CHÂTEAU QUINAULT L'ENCLOS *
CHÂTEAU RIPEAU
CHÂTEAU ROCHEBELLE *
CHÂTEAU SAINT-GEORGES-COTE-PAVIE
CLOS SAINT-MARTIN
CHÂTEAU SANSONNET
CHÂTEAU LA SERRE
CHÂTEAU SOUTARD
CHÂTEAU TERTRE DAUGAY (Now called Quintus, owned by Dillon)
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR FIGEAC
CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE
CHÂTEAU YON-FIGEAC

[JonB]

Not long after I bought my first 3 bottles of Magdelaine it now is classe-less. Was it something I did? Oh well, by the time these arrive it may be back on the list.

[Houndsong]

It's on my list, Jon, and that's the one that matters.

[DavidG]

I don't really pay much attention to this classification either, but it's fodder for discussion. Angelus has been a long-time favorite in my personal pantheon but it has gotten too dang expensive. Clos Fourtet has been a favorite since our visit there in 2005 but it ain't cheap any more either.

[Ramon_NYC]

Pavie sure made up plenty of grounds. Now it's, according to this classification, in the same league as Angelus.

[Tom In DC]

Heck, Ramon, it's in the same league as Cheval Blanc and Ausone based on this! The sky's the limit price-wise now, I guess.

[Claudius2]

What happened to Magdelaine??
So its now a GC or not even classiified at all??

[AlexR]

Claudius,

I have several different vintages of Magdelaine too.

Makes me want to open a bottle and post in the near future.

Moueix is a mighty force on the Right Bank, but Magdelaine's downgrading shows the impartiality of the classification.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Jeff Leve]

This is a look at all the changes, up and down that took place in the classification.

The 2012 St. Emilion Classification is official. It’s completed. It’s controversial. It’s going to make some people happy. Other people, not so much. Numerous chateaux have been elevated. For the first time since the St. Emilion Classification was created in 1955, two chateaux were added to the list of Premier Grand Cru Classé A. Joining Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc at the top of the pyramid are Chateau Angelus and Chateau Pavie in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification! Both wines are great! Bravo! They both worked hard to earn their new status. It’s also nice to see because Robert Parker spent so much time sharing his enthusiasm on both wines, especially, Pavie. It looks like he has been vindicated on that call. However, this news is already generating a lot of talk among wine lovers.

The news of the changes to the 2012 St. Emilion Classification was released a little at a time. For many people, this was confusing. If the information was available, why not release it in full? What happened is, each St. Emilion received their official notification of the 2012 St. Emilion Classification before any major announcement was made. At that point, it was up to the individual chateau if they wanted to share and promote their news or not. The complete list of all the changes to the 2012 St. Emilion classification became available September 6.
Does it matter? To the majority of American consumers, not a lot. In fact, it will not change what most consumers think of the wines. People are going to continue paying what they think the wines are worth. Keep in mind, Valandraud and La Mondotte were not classified until today. Yet, they were already two of the most expensive wines in St. Emilion. On the other end of the spectrum, Trottevieille and Magdelaine were considered First Growths, and both wines sold for less money than many lesser classified growths. That does not mean the 2012 St. Emilion Classification is not important. It is. And it’s an honor for all the chateau that produced wine at the level required for an upgrade in their status. For consumers worried that prices will increase for their favorite wines, that probably will not happen.

The 2012 St. Emilion Classification is much more than the Premier Grand Cru Classé A wines. Although that is big news! Equally important is discovering which chateaux were elevated to the Premier Grand Cru Classé B category. When the St. Emilion Classification was first created, a total of 12 chateau earned the right to label their wines as Premier Grand Cru Classé. Today that number has grown, and rightfully so. The level of quality being produced in St. Emilion has never been higher! While it’s easy to quibble over which chateau deserve to be labeled as Premier Grand Cru Classé B, and who should be demoted, overall, the wines being made in this category are at their best, sublime expressions of St. Emilion. The producers elevated to this category worked hard to get there. They are all stunning wines, from great estates and passionate about wine. It’s nice to see Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle get the recognition they deserve. Stephan Neipperg, with his approach to vineyard management has been making great wine at La Mondotte and Canon La Gaffeliere. The dynamic duo of Stephane Derenoncourt and Nicolas Thienpont took Larcis Ducasse from an under performing terroir and turned it into a strong and affordable, quality St. Emilion. They all deserve their new status.

The following producers were elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé B status in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification making a total of 14 chateaux with the designation of Premier Grand Cru Classé B status:
Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere
Chateau Larcis Ducasse
La Mondotte
Valandraud

Chateau Magdelaine is no longer part of the classification of St. Emilion. The vines are now merged into Chateau Belair-Monange, which ironically, allows the vines to retain their First Growth status. Life can be funny like that sometimes.
Numerous changes in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification have also taken place in the Grand Cru Classé category. Today 63 estates share the honor of Grand Cru Classe status. The whopping 17 newest editions to Grand Cru Classe are:

Chateau Cote de Baleau
Chateau Barde Haut
Chateau Le Chatelet
Chateau Clos de Sarpe
Chateau Clos La Madeleine
Chateau La Commanderie
Chateau Faugeres
Chateau de Ferrand
Chateau Fombrauge
Chateau La Fleur Morange
Chateau Jean Faure
Chateau La Marzelle
Chateau Peby Faugeres
Chateau de Pressac
Chateau Quinault l’Enclos
Chateau Rochebelle
Chateau Sansonnet
Eight chateaux that were demoted from the 2006 St. Emilion Classification were once again awarded Grand Cru Classe status in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification:
Chateau Bellevue
Chateau Cadet Bon
Chateau Faurie de Souchard
Chateau Guadet – Previously known as Chateau Guadet Saint Julien
Chateau Petit Faurie deSoutard
Chateau Tertre Daugay which is now Chateau Quintus
Chateau Villemaurine
Chateau YonFigeac

The most interesting statistic from this entire reclassification is perhaps the following: a total of four chateaux were demoted in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification. Magdelaine from the position of First Growth and three from Grand Cru Classe status. I love Bordeaux wine. I want everyone to succeed. I spend a lot of my time in Bordeaux. The only thing I spend more on for Bordeaux is my money. I’ve tasted most of the wines on this page multiple times and several vintages. Many of the wines that earned Grand Cru Classe status in the 2012 St. Emilion Classification are stunning. But every wine on this list is not close to equal quality. I find it shocking that only 3 chateau were demoted from Grand Cru Classe status and one from Premier Grand Cru Classé A. But, that is the conclusion the impartial committee arrived at. The following three estates lost their Grand Cru Classe status.

Chateau Bergat
Chateau Cadet Piola
Chateau Corbin Michotte

For history buffs, this does not set a record for the number of Classified growths in St. Emilion at one time. The 2012 St. Emilion Classification has 81 members, while the Classification of 1969 had 84 chateaux included. While it was previously agreed on that properties would not contest the latest round of classifications. I would not be surprised to see some properties file suit, claiming the results were unfair. The more things change, the more they stay the same. If you want to read about how we got here, which is due to the 2006 classification: http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/?page_id=164

[Claudius2]

Jeff
You say it is shocking that only 3 estates were demoted fro GCC.
Can I ask which you feel should also have been demoted?
There are a few I am surprised maintained GCC such as Villemaurine, though many of these wines I have no experience with.

[AlexR]

Please note that Bergat and Cadet Piola did not, in fact, lose their GCC status as such.

Bergat was absorbed by Trottevieille (a premier, don't ask me how that works), Cadet Piola has become part of Soutard.

Furthermore, Canon, another premier, annexed Matras, a GCC.

I'll try to find out more about this down the line and share.

Alex R.

[Jeff Leve]

Jeff
You say it is shocking that only 3 estates were demoted fro GCC.
Can I ask which you feel should also have been demoted?
There are a few I am surprised maintained GCC such as Villemaurine, though many of these wines I have no experience with.

Claudius... I think most of who I felt should be downgraded is an a different article I published last week. www.thewinecellarinsider.com/?p=23850

Vieillemaurine was an underperforming estate with a good terroir until recently. The wines they produce today are very good and will get even better. You can read details on Villemaurine if you like: www.thewinecellarinsider.com/?page_id=7438

[stefan]

Thanks for the link, Jeff. I agree with your list of those that should have been downgraded.

[Claudius2]

Thanks Jeff
Agree with the wines I have tried but don't see most of those wines in Australia or Singapore

[Musigny 151]

Interesting.
A few thoughts. Like some others on this board, seeing Magdelaine disappear is tragic. There are few really well made traditional St. Emilions, and Magdelaine's demise is all the sadder for that. Belair Monange, also a well made terroir driven wine will be the better for the Magdelaine grapes, and will probably be one of the top chateaux in the appellation (the 2011 was particularly extraordinary given the vintage) but it's sad to see an old friend go.

In the last year or so, I have had verticals of both Pavie and Angelus. The two should not be lumped together. Pavie was very blah, and anonymous. I liked two vintages 1998 and 2006, the rest could have been California cabs made to the sweeter, less acidic formula. Hell, they could have been grown hydroponically in the Antarctic.
The Angelus is a much more serious wine, beautifully made in both good and bad vintages. The extraction is carefully handled, and the wines well balanced but do need time. That being said, the Magdelaine is a wine that appeals to me more personally; I like its warts as well as its beauty.

After the debacle of previous years, I was glad to see the appellation not holding back, scared of legal challenges. While I do not agree with some of the things they have done, I like the fact that they have made some bold changes. The classification, as opposed to the ossified 1855 of the Medoc is alive

[Claudius2]

Musigny/Jeff
I gather that Belair Monange includes what used to be Ch Belair??
It is aan estate that I thought rarely deserved to be a PGCC.

[Musigny 151]

Belair in the past, suffered from a whole slew of problems, but in terms of terroir is one of the top estates of St. Emilion. The Mouiex family is now responsible, and Christian, the patriarch has given responsibility to his son Edouard. From 2008, the wines have been exceptional.

[Jeff Leve]

Musigny/Jeff
I gather that Belair Monange includes what used to be Ch Belair??
It is aan estate that I thought rarely deserved to be a PGCC.

Belair Monange is Belair, with a name change. For details - http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/?page_id=1046

[DavidG]

Musigny - I agree with respect to Angelus and Pavie. Pavie is much more "modern" than Angelus. I've liked some vintages of Pavie, others not so much, and I'm not averse to modern, new world, ripe sweet fruit. Angelus is one of my favorites year-in and year-out, but is already priced in nosebleed territory. I haven't had the experience with the others to comment.

[Comte Flaneur]

My recent right bank purchases have been based on the premise of the death of traditional St-Emilion, so I have been buying up parcels of Magdelaine, Belair and some Figeac. This classification change confirms my thesis, and will accelerate the demise of trad St-Emilion. So I am very much with Mark on this. Of course now Belair will become like other low yielding spoofy St-Emilions, so average 95 rather than 89 points, and cost three times as much. No thanks. There is no incentive for St-Emilion producers to make subtle, nuanced wines expressing terroir. There is every incentive to go for power and extract. The elevation of Pavie and Angelus to equal status with Ausone and Cheval Blanc is regrettable in my opinion. Neither are in the same league - my opinion of Pavie is similar to Mark's - its a vulgar wine. Angelus can be very good - it was in 1989 - but in more recent vintages I find it devoid of much personality or character.