There has been a reasonable amount of discussion about 2003 as a questionable "HOT" vintage. The more I sample through the more I start questioning the controversy.
Sat night with duck breast I opened the 03 du Tertre and a little closed on opening but within an hour this was beautiful. It is in a very nice place right now with Margaux berries wafting into the glass and a lovely balanced wine with everything we love. Good fruit,acidity and integration of the once noticeable awkward oak. No heat of the 03s alcohol. This is a lovely wine and hopefully we will see more of this with others from the vintage. I don't think anyone will be sorry with this in their cellar.
Du Tertre was one of the very few 2003's I tasted out of the 40-50 I tried on release that wasn't weird (and one of the very few that I bought). Nearly all that I tried had a raisiny/roasted style that I didn't particularly care for (If you like hyper-ripe Zin or Grenache, maybe it's your thing, but it's "Not My Style"). Drawing general conclusions about 2003 based on the Du Tertre would be a mistake, I think. 2003 was a vintage you had to try each wine before buying.
From 2003 I've been impressed with Pontet Canet, Duhart Milon, Sociando Mallet, Leoville Barton, d'Issan, among others. I don't recall drinking much of anything from the right bank from that vintage.
I have several others Moulin St Georges, PC, GPL, Sociando Mallet (no green peppers unfortunately) Potensac come to mind that are strong but fine.
I don't doubt there are some compromised wines from that vintage. I haven't really tasted too many as I recall, maybe the Charmail on release (burnt tasting and so dry - although I believe someone's reported it's improved) and a Puygueraud (smelled of bananas).
Discount if you will that I admit to liking lots of wines and different styles. I've enjoyed the 03s, and have been emboldened to back fill a few cases. I may have just picked luckily too.
I have three or four mags of the Duhart. I just snuck those in before the China-Lafite bandwagon set off. I have not tried it although it seems to meet with near-universal acclaim.
I haven't tasted many '03s, but I agree that du Tertre is very good, as it is in most every vintage. But don't spread that around lest the price go up.
Bananas, got lots of that on 2003's bouquets on release (and some crazy coconut-oil scents on some too, from new oak).
I am a fan of 2003 in the northern Medoc, though the vintage didn't work with some chateau's style as well as others even in the Medoc (a statement true for many vintages). Wines like Sociando, Duhart, Pontet Canet, Montrose, L. Barton, Lanessan and Lafon Rochet come to mind, many are big and ripe but retain balance. The Duhart has been particularly delicious since day one when released in 2005 when it was still a $25 bottle of wine.
Across Bordeaux overall, I think the jury is still out on where these will end up. Some will always probably find the style not their thing and the style right now, especially aromatically, can be a bit over the top, but these continue to show signs of coming together. It would be really exciting (at least for those of us who get excited about wine, ahem) if 2003 turns into another 1990: big and ripe but still balanced and Bordeaux. There are lots of duds (d'Armailhac was bad at our blind horizontal in 2011) and many wines are awkward right now, but if they continue to settle down, wines like du Tertre will be good and excellent values. I think I paid $22 for the 2003 du Tertre as futures.
The only 2003's that stand out to me as being so far slightly dissapointing are the St. Pierre and Lagrange. Lately i've heard better things about the Lagrange but we'll see.
