Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

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Jackdaw Dawson
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Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by Jackdaw Dawson »

I haven't been to Bordeaux in 15 years. And for much of this period, my affection for Bordeaux was undermined by the emergence of the "super-modern" Bordeaux Chateau, equipped with reverse osmosis machines and thousands of new oak barrels, producing overextracted 14-15% alc. wines at shockingly high prices. I've never been one for trends or the "in-crowd." Or hunting down trophy wines "for the sport of it" or flipping. So it was easy for me at first to push Bordeaux wines out of my line of sight. So instead of going back to Bordeaux, I spent time visiting wineries and vineyards in Burgundy, Beaujolais, Piedmont, Alto Adige, Friuli, all of California, Oregon, Long Island, Virginia, and elsewhere, and my wine buying largely followed in suit. Thing is, there is nothing in the world like an old Bordeaux. Nothing. Over the past couple of years, I've had the good fortune to taste some incredible Bordeaux from the 1920s, 1950s, and 1980s, and they sing a Siren's song unlike any other wine. I've also had the good fortune to taste some newer wines from small, under-the-radar producers who are doing great things.

So when a friend recently invited me to stay at his place in Bordeaux for the En Primeurs week in April 2013, I had to say yes. Sure, the 2012 vintage is not 1982. Or even close to 1989, 1990, 1996, 2005 or 2010 for that matter. But that's okay. Heck, I bought a fair amount of 1993 and 1994 Bordeaux for young drinking, and I was pretty happy at the time. For me, it's more about the chance to see how Bordeaux the city, and the market, has changed; to see if and how the classified growths are starting to "rein in" the excesses of oak, extraction, and overripeness. To see first-hand what buyers from around the world are looking for (prestige, QPR, volume, continuity, etc.).

I'm not sure what my schedule will allow for in terms of tastings, visits, restaurants, etc. (my friend is taking care of that), but I would definitely be interested in any suggestions or advice. I look forward to providing real-time updates during my time in Bordeaux, internet willing.

Best,

Jackdaw
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JimHow
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by JimHow »

Hey Jackdaw, can't wait to hear your impressions!
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AlohaArtakaHoundsong
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by AlohaArtakaHoundsong »

I'll be interested too. Especially because I was sure they stopped making Bordeaux, if not before, than at the latest in 2010 when they retired the vintage of the century trophy for good.
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Nicklasss
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by Nicklasss »

Good to hear from you Jackdaw. Hope your father is well.

Have fun in Bordeaux and my only advice is that you should try to visit one or two "of the radar" estate. I had a great time, with AlexR last December, at Château Rolland la Garde (Blaye), and not very well know estate of Pessac Léognan. If you can, go to Sociando Mallet as well, to see how that nice terroir can produce great wine with 60 hectolitres per hectare.

Enjoy.

Nic
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RDD
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by RDD »

My only advice is to soak it all in............
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DavidG
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by DavidG »

Welcome back, Jackdaw! I hope you have a great trip, and look forward to your impressions. I agree that there's nothing like a great aged Bordeaux.
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OrlandoRobert
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by OrlandoRobert »

Excited to read your impressions. And please take PICTURES!

It's been 15+ years since I've been there, too. Like you, I have traveled to so many other wine regions since. Many great wines and great times, but you are right, nothing moves the soul like a mature Bordeaux. In the last 5 years I have had some incredible wines that made impressions - from a '66 Burg, to a '68 CA Cab to a '47 Banyuls to a '77 Weinert Malbec and many others - but every time I have a mature, quality Bdx, and say, "this is my spot". I bought a mixed cased of '82s last year from a solid place, and almost everyone fired on all cyclinders. I need more . . . .
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JimHow
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by JimHow »

Yes, I am expecting a full and detailed report exclusive to Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts.

The question that needs to be answered in the Jackdaw investigative report is:

"To what extent have the wines of Bordeaux become Parkerized?"
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OrlandoRobert
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by OrlandoRobert »

JimHow wrote: The question that needs to be answered in the Jackdaw investigative report is:

"To what extent have the wines of Bordeaux become Parkerized?"
Personally, I would rather see a focus on wines that are undiscovered and more classic, traditional.

BWE should direct Jack to Domaine du Jaugaret to check it out:

https://www.madrose.com/index.php/franc ... u-jaugaret
The sad irony is that, in this age of extensive outside investment in the prime areas of Bordeaux married to an obsession with technical control of vinification, the very essence of the terroir of these grand micro-climates in the Médoc, like Saint Julien, is being undermined with the result that the wines of Domaine de Jaugaret are now being rejected for the appellation that they represent so truly and well. Thus, in this tragic moment of standardization, the most “typical” of Saint Juliens is being threatened with being denied the right to claim its origin as Saint Julien! We stand with Monsieur Fillastre in his refusal to “modernize” to satisfy the new “normal”; thus, for those of us who love and admire Jaugaret, the names of Fillastre and Jaugaret will remain synonymous with Saint Julien.
Sounds like what our fearless leader is pining for!
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Blanquito
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by Blanquito »

I haven't been to bordeaux in 12 years, and coincidentally, my brother and I are considering a trip to Aquitaine in April as well. Maybe we can organize a meet-up dinner if we're there at the same time.
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AlohaArtakaHoundsong
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Re: Everything Old is New Again; Off to Bordeaux in April

Post by AlohaArtakaHoundsong »

What is the legal justification for this Jaugaret outrage? :x !
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