A marvellous Côtes du Rhône

[Nicklasss]

Starting my unexpected holidays tonight ( I was no supposed to have some this summer), I was too late to decant a nice Bordeaux to go with the T-Bone and the chimichurri.

So, instead, I was in the mood for some Grenache, but not a unexpressive one but a great one. I opened a bottle of the 2005 Château de Fonsalette Réservé, the Côtes du Rhône made by Rayas. I had that wine, from another vintage, and have been impressed. Again tonight.

A nice medium dark red color, with intense aromas. A superb mixture, I wish everyones could smell: kirsch cherries, licorice, intense violet flowers, incredibly spicy, meaty, dark berries, herbs, pepper, an amazing nose. In mouth, well, what can I say? Touch me deeply. A perfumed red berries and kirsch attack, with lot of spices, light cinnamon, white peppercorns, nice medium tannins, lush and elegance, with minerals and long red currants final. An amazing wine. I'm in love! TN : 93-93.5.

It is only the second time I have that wine, and I want to répéta the experience. I did not had it often, but The Château Fonsalette is still in a special catégory for me, the wine that never deceived me. Other wines in that category: Château Palmer.

Nic

[stefan]

Has any region improved more than Cotes du Rhone in the last 15 years? A couple of nights ago we drank a much more modest CdR, 2007 Domaine de Mourchon Seguret, that was lovely.

[DavidG]

Count me among the Rhone lovers. Cotes du Rhones have become my most reliable QPRs

[OrlandoRobert]

Sorry to be contrarian, but I view the Southern Rhone region differently. Historically for me it was my go-to region for everyday drinking (easily over 10+ cases per year) and even finer wines as well from CDP and Gigondas. The Cambie and Parker influence has nearly killed that region for me. How many 15%+ CDRs are being made these days, opaque purple, low acid, extracted and high-octane? Even some of my favorite wineries have moved in that direction. I saw the massive change in 2007, granted a hot year, but then cemented in 09 and 10. I liked many 07s on first release, but they have not weathered well IMHO. I'm barely buying anything these days from Souther Rhone and even cancelled my pre-orders from perennial faves, like Pegau and Clos de Papes.

[OrlandoRobert]

I should have qualified that Rayas is not in the camp that concerns me.

[DavidG]

That's ok if you can't stomach those ripe alcoholic Rhones, Robert. They still fill a need for me. They're perfect under $20 party wines, easily accessible and just fine for occasional noncritical quaffing.

[jmccready]

CDRs at an all time high and the Grenache handles the range of styles well. I agree with David again. I may even open a 2010
Fontbonau (spelling may be off) tonight. But I understand the too big argument to a point, depending on the wine.

[OrlandoRobert]

I hope my post did not come across too harsh. It really is coming from a position of total disappointment for me. I really, really love a well-made Southern Rhone. The 2001 CDPs are glorious. I miss the style that used to be so prevalent.

[finner]

Ripe Grenache turns into alcohol when fermented to dry. That's what I like about Grenache. It's flamboyant and has nice legs.

[Jay Winton]

I like 'em

[DavidG]

Not harsh at all. Different strokes, makes life interesting. It's not like you were saying it's wrong to like that style. It's funny, there are times when I can't stand them either, when I want a really focused, acidic, crunchy wine.

[jmccready]

Really like the back and forth here that leads to an overall positive about CDRs. Nobody really disagrees but the
elegant to chunky style leads to debate.
Values still remain for now but for how long if producers are going to concentrate the wines even more, like O.R.
was saying originally. Don't want CDRs at $50 . So I like the richer styles now as I don't think
they have gone too far generally. Hope the producers let Cdrs be Cdrs and at a decent price. Robert thinks some
have gone too far already. (Maybe climate warming is more of a factor now than we think.) JM

[Chasse-Spleen]

I have to agree with OrlandoRobert that I have been disappointed by some recent CDR's that I've tried. It has always been a go to region for me - I love CDR! But a number of 09s and 10s I have recently tried have been just as OR described, and many of my favorites I'm not seeing around.

Chasse