Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990 revisited

[Comte Flaneur]

Just got back from a week in Cap Martin/Roquebrune, where we were blessed with fine sunny weather, with the temperature hovering in the low-20s centigrade/mid-70s fahrenheit. We also ventured into Piedmont, which is a two and a half hour drive, and drank some superb barolos and barbarescos. However, on our last night in the Cap, I opened a bottle of Mouton Rothschild 1990 (which the restaurant grudgingly agreed to let us open).

Although I love the 'Hommage a Francis Bacon' label I wasn't really expecting much. I have had this wine a few times before and based on those experiences I agreed with prevailing sentiments that Mouton significantly under-achieved in the context of what is surely one of the greatest modern day vintages in Bordeaux.

So we sat down, this wine and I and we had a conversation. I said 'you do not have a very good reputation' and (s)he replied 'rather than have preconceived ideas why don't you just judge me on my own merits and on your own criteria'? This wine has the enthralling Mouton nose of soy, and a certain haunting quality...exotic mushrooms to the fore and a certain leafiness. On the palate it was no more than medium-bodied, but beautifully delineated. It is not pouting or highly extracted but is restrained, discreet and has a captivating balance and karma, attenuated by age. This is the first fully mature example I have tried, and it was simply fabulous.

The wine maker was clearly going for finesse and balance over power and extraction. This is not the first fully mature First Growth with an iffy reputation that has surprised and delighted me. Others have included Lafite 1985 and Latour 1983.