1998 Malartic Lagravière (red)

[AlexR]

Saturday dinner :

Champagne : Juline from Geroges Vesselle. A Bouzy grand cru. Lovely bottle and label, but the wine had nowhere near the same personality. A decent Champagne, but had expected more from the packaging and, if I recall correctly, the price.

1st red wine: 2009 Chevrol Bel Air, Lalande de Pomerol: This is an answer to the recent thread about good affordable Bordeaux, and one of the few wines I buy by the case because it represents tremendous value for money (about 10 euros a bottle). Smooth, enjoyable now, but will age. Lovely melts-in-your-mouth Merlot character, but also has structure. What’s not to like?

1998 Malartic Lagravière (red): There were just 4 of us, but we were still a little thirsty after the second bottle. So I uncorked this, decanted it, and served it about 15 minutes later. I was expecting a solid, unexciting wine – more or less in keeping with Malartic-Lagravière’s reputation – but was surprised to find a very classic Bordeaux with depth and personality. Nose of a good Médoc (pencil shavings, blackcurrant), but then going into a round fleshiness more reminiscent of a right bank wine. However, the finish flipped back to Médoc-like tannin. I don’t think I’ve ever had a better Malartic, and certainly wasn’t expecting such a performance from this vintage. The tannin on the finish means the wine can age further, but I like it at its present stage. Recent vintages from this château have gone from strength to strength, and the prices have stayed fairly reasonable. A estate to watch.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[dstgolf]

Alex,

I was quite impressed back in 2005 with the reception BWE had at ML and equally impressed with their wines both red and white. Bought a commemorative case of the 2005 and though young the trial bottle last year was excellent. Also have a case of the 04 6 x 03 and case 09 so I've banked somewhat on the expectation that this was indeed a rising estate with the Borie family now at the helm and hopefully taking the house in a good direction.

Thanks for the notes and glad to see some left bank 98s continue to show well.

[Tom In DC]

Wasn't it the Bonnie family at ML?

[DavidG]

Yes, and still is I think. The Borie family is Ducru Beaucaillou, Grand Puy Lacoste, Haut Batailley and Lalande Borie.

[dstgolf]

Most of the letters right anyhow! Borie ...Bonnie close. Thanks for the correction Tom.