Two 1996 Pauillacs

[Comte Flaneur]

We drank these head to head. Maureen and I had one in a Bordeaux Zalto and the other in a Bordeaux Riedel. I had the GPL in the Zalto, she had it in the Riedel. Both are brilliant bordeaux glasses and it was hard to choose between them. Likewise it was difficult to choose between these two Pauillacs.

Duhart Milon

Graphite, lead pencils, cedar with hints of Lafite. Not quite Lafite on the palate, but very satisfying nonetheless with earthiness, tobacco, cassis and some cherries, resolved and sophisticated. Classic, delicious Pauillac from a great vintage, drinking very well.

GPL

Cherry cassis, very lush entry, some new oak still, sweet ripe fruits, dense on the mid palate with lead pencil and graphite. Tannins not quite resolved but already a delicious drop of Pauillac from a brilliant and under-rated producer. Now and over the next 20 years. It will be fascinating to see how this evolves next to the 1995 over the next few years. They are pretty neck-and-neck but maybe the 1995 has that extra mineral and tensile dimension?

These two were a big step up from the Sociando. On Tuesday we are doing a 1996 Bordeaux horizontal.

[robert goulet]

Tasted the '96 GPL...a terrific wine in it's own right but a tiny step down fron the brilliant '95

[Comte Flaneur]

GPL featured in our blind tasting of 1996s on Tuesday and I didn't even recognise it.

Chateau Talbot was the unlikely star of the show:

1996 tasting notes

Talbot – fabulous nose with some floral notes with cedar and cigar wrapper; oozing class, quite austere and intense on the palate, long finish. Regal. 18/20

GPL – exotic, kinky high-toned, fruit attack at first, then settles down and puts on weight; tasted much better at the end of the evening, young promising with a dense mid-palate: 15.5 at the beginning 17 at the end.

Batailley – good nose, fresh, medium-bodied, good palate and length, classic style, lacks a bit of generosity. 15.5/20

Lafon Rochet – fully resolved with an interesting complex nose, medium body, drinking beautifully now. 16.5/20

***Montrose 1976 – thick and dense, a bit of volatility but holding up really well and a pleasure to drink. 16/20*** ringer double blind

Palmer – I have had this before and loved it, but on the night it did not really stand out from the crowd perhaps because it is still a little bit tight; subtle notes of perfume, flowers and tobacco...16.5/20

Beausejour Becot – a delightful, superb, mature medium-bodied St-Emilion...17.5/20

La Conseillante – a little thicker, broodier and less resolved, less expressive and less enjoyable than the BB; still good, but unexciting by Conseillante standards...16/20

Potensac...nicely resolved, classic claret, good in all departments, and not at all embarrassed in this company...15.5/20

Giscours – a classy wine with elegance and complexity and a languid, satisfying palate. This was showing better than the Palmer. 17/20

Domaine De Chevalier Rouge – tobacco, cigar box, cedar, black currants with mineral overtones; nicely resolved, complex and very pleasurable. 17.5/20

[DavidG]

Wow, Giscours besting Palmer!

Interesting variation on the GPL. Think it was bottle variation, storage, decant time, or ??

[Comte Flaneur]

I think Palmer got lost in the melee David. It is still a young wine and when one is less than disciplined in spitting that can happen. The Giscours was more resolved. As for the GPLs the second one was popped and poured the first one had plenty of time to prep. It made a difference.

But bottom line is that there is no reason to doubt the quality of this vintage, despite Cos being corked, the owner of Leoville Barton not being able to attend because of the lurgy and neither of the Pichons in attendance.

[Outlier]

I had a few bottles of the '96 GPL almost a decade ago and thought it was stunning, but haven't had any since - I think I managed to buy it at the time at the WIne Club for less than $70, but no more of course..One other '96 Pauillac that really stood out for me was the Pichon Baron, and I've also had the '95 and '97 too. All seemed amazing to me, even the '97. I used to be able to get the '95 or '96 for about $60, but of course no more..and now the recent vintages are far too pricey, alas.

[robert goulet]

Talbot is just great stuff, but never tasted. '96