Primeur 2008 tastings as it happened day by day

[greatbxfreak]

I arrived at Bordeaux on the Wednesday 25th March and already the next day I had seven visits.

1. It started at La Conseillante, where its manager Jean-Michel Laporte presented with quite much pride Duo and Grand Vin 2008. La Conseillante 2008 was silky, very aromatic and very stylish. Terrific effort. Jean-Michel Laporte compared I with 1988 and 2001 concerning structure.

Next stop was Certan de May, where Jean-Luc Barreau was not convinced that his 2008 (only 29hl/ha!) was better than 2007, but I was! Especially after 2008 got 15-20 minutes extra in the glass. Fresh black cherries and violets. Splendid. Tasted also terrific 2006 (powerful, tight and deep, little evolved) and very aromatic and well constructed 2004.

From Certan de May to neighbor VCC. 2008 was 70% M + 20% CF + 10% CS, M reached 13.8% alcohol while CF reached 13.9 and CS 12%. Violets, very aromatic, intense nose, splendidly constructed, elegant, long aftertaste. Simply terrific. Alexandre Thienpont compared it to VCC 1988. Tasted also 2006 VCC, which was very silky, aromatic, beautifully constructed and incredibly stylish. Alexandre Thienpont told me that in his opinion 2006 will outlive 2005 here, but I’m still not convinced. Le Pin 2008 - like VCC but with more breed and depth. Stunning effort.

Then Le Gay, where its manager Jean-Christophe Meyrou proudly presented La Graviere from Lalande de Pomerol (100% Merlot), Montviel (85% M and 15% CF), La Violette (100% M, only 900 bottles) and Le Gay (85% M and 15% CF). Probably the best vintage for all these four wines and in case of Le Gay it's sure thing. Jean-Christophe Meyrou told me that the vineyard of Le Gay needed a lot of work to clean it up from sloppy vineyard management during Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix’ regime here. After cleaning up was done, they understood it better and are sure that 2008 will exceed 2005 vintage here. Explosion of blueberries/blackberries, spophisticated, silky fruit, outstanding balance, velvety tannins and formidable length. Excellent effort!

After lunch in Saint-Emilion, the tasting room under offices of Jean-Luc Thunevin, was my next rendez-vous. I tasted 9 wines in 2007 vintage and same 9 wines in 2008 vintage. Bad Boy (Bx), Bellevue de Tayac (Margaux), Domaine de Sabines (L.d.Pomerol), Fayat-Thunevin (L.d.Pomerol), Le Clos de Beau-Pere (Pomerol), Fayat-Thunevin (L.d.Pomerol), Fayat-Thunevin (Pomerol), Clos Badon (St.E. Grand Cru), Virginie de Valandraud and Valandraud were in vintage 2008 far, far better than vintage 2007 tasted at the same occasion. Valandraud 2008 reminded me quite of its older brother 2005. Fleshy, aromatic and velvety [/b]fruit/tannin. Excellent effort.

From there to Tertre Roteboeuf. Francois Mitjavile did it again! 2008 is magnifique - sensual, fruit en large (blueberry/blackberry/wild cherries) sophisticated and opulent. Excellent stuff! Roc de Cambes followed powerfully in TR's track. Terrific effort. Tasted also both wines in 2007 vintage (significantly lighter than 2008 vintage but with a lot of charm) and 2004 vintage, very impressive, aromatic, fleshy and well balanced. Francois Mitjavile’s son, Louis Mitjavile has his own property in Cotes de Castillon, Domaine de L’Aurage, which in 2008 vintage was a splendid effort with elegant black fruit and fine balance.

The day ended in glory at Ausone. Simard, Haut Simard, Fonbel, Moulin St.Georges, Chapelle d'Ausone and Ausone are very successful in vintage 2008. Blueberry/blackberry, silky fruit and silky tannin. Ausone is fleshy, very sophisticated, with terrific balance and very long on the palate. Great stuff!

2. Next day, Friday the 27th March, me and Miguel Lecuona went early in the morning to Haut Brion. Spent there 1.5 hour tasting 2008 and asking questions to Turid Alcaras and Jean-Philippe Delmas. Miguel had time of his life, that’s for sure. La Chapelle de LMHB (38% of the harvest) and Le Clarence de HB (47% of the harvest) were fine for second wine to be, with first being more on the earthy and mineral side and the latter having softer fruit and softer structure. La Mission (40% of the harvest) once again presented its well-known silkiness and velvety structure, sophisticated touch, excellent structure and balance. Fabulous stuff! Haut Brion (35% of the harvest) was as fabulous as LMHB but in different style. More mineral, more concentrated and more powerful. When I tasted Laville Haut Brion, my first 2008 white Bordeaux, I knew that this vintage is great. Turid said to me that Jean-Philippe Delmas values 2008 white as stunning as 2007 white. Great intensity of acacia flower, lemon, apple, pear and peach, incredibly aromatic, great supporting acidity and stunning balance. Simply fantastic. White Haut Brion 2008 which contains more S.B. than LHB, was a thrill from start to end with maybe better structure and more richness than LHB.

After return to Bordeaux and quick lunch, Miguel and me went first to Beychevelle and then to Latour. At Beychevelle we tasted 2008, 2007, 2005, 2002, 2001, 1999 and 1995. 2008 was very elegant, aromatic, smooth, round and gentle on the aftertaste. Its charm compensated for lacking a bit more weight and concentration. 2007 was in same style as 2008 but lighter and with less breed. 2005 and 2001 vintages showed as well as I tasted them in November 2008 during vertical tasting in Copenhagen.

At Latour we tasted Pauillac, Les Forts de Latour and Grand Vin. First wine showed good concentration, good grip, nice balance and smooth aftertaste, while Les Forts de Latour was more mouth-filling, more fleshy and better structured. Latour had silky tannins and was very complex, but tasted not as concentrated and deep as I expected it to be. I value it to be somewhat better than 2007 version.

3. Sunday the 30th March – Cercle Rive Droite tasting. I went there with Miguel. Managed to taste around 50 wines in two hours and was particulary happy with Reynon (P.C.d.Bordeaux), Fougas Maldoror (C.d.Bourg), Cap de Faugeres (C.d.Castillon), Joanin Becot (C.d.Castillon), Veyry (C.d.Castillon), de La Dauphine, Fontenil, de La Riviere, Les Troix Croix, all from Fronsac, and Barrabaque and Moulin Pey Labrie (stunning wine!) from Canon-Fronsac. Then Bon Pasteur, Bourgneuf Vayron, La Clemence, Clos L’Eglise, all from Pomerol, L’Ambroisie du Chateau La Croix des Moines and Tournefouille from L.d.Pomerol, Barde-Haut, Destieux, Faugeres Cuvée Peby, Ferrand Lartique, Fleur Cardinale, Grand Corbin Despagne, Lynsolence and Sansonnet from Saint-Emilion. Not bad at all!

After return to Bordeaux and some rest we went in direction to Domaine de Chevalier for a dinner with wines ending with 9. Prior to dinner we (large group of people – we were 22) tasted D.d.Chevalier red in 2008-7-6-5-4 and white in 2008-7-6. 2008 red was terrific effort with splendid depth and length, fine black cherries, splendid balance and aftertaste. 2005 red was fabously rich and 2006 red ripe, tight and deep. 2008 white grabbed my attention immediately with its incredible aromatic touch, great intensity of lemon and pineapple and fabulously caressing finish. Only 27 hl/ha was produced of this wine. Wow! 2007 white had bigger structure, was more full-bodied and richer than 2008 white, but 2008 white really broke my heart. 2006 white was excellent too. During the dinner we drank truly amazing Mouton Rothschild 1929 with truffles and chocolate powder all over the place, combined with sheer elegance and refinement, and excellent D.d.Chevalier 1959 red.

Next day, Monday the 30th March, I went to Smith Haut Lafitte in the morning, to taste wines from Pessac-Leognan. My best picks were Domaine de Chevalier, La Louviere, Carbonnieux, Cruzeau, Haut Bergey, Latour Martillac, Malartic Lagraviere, Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte, all mentioned wines in red and white.

4. In the afternoon it was time to taste Sauternes & Barsac 2008 – 25 wines. It was blind tasting and after names were revealed, I was very glad to discover Suduiraut, Nairac, Coutet, La Tour Blanche, Clos Haut Peyraguey and Guiraud among my highest rated wines. But the wine I gave the highest score was Doisy Daëne! – this wine was simply stunning. During welcoming dinner at Pontet Canet later that day, I asked Fabrice Dubordieu (son of Denis Dubordieu) to explain why Doisy Daëne is so excellent in 2008? The answer was – we didn’t produce any Extravagant de Doisy Daëne 2008 due to minisculous quantity because of frost damage, so Extravagant grapes went into Doisy Daëne! Thank you very much.

Soon after I arrived at d’Yquem to taste their magnifique 2008 – extremely deep and intense wine on the nose, extremely sophisticated and with excellent structure and length.

The welcoming dinner at Pontet Canet was as usual full of usual suspects, old friends, new friends. Melanie Tesseron and his uncle run the show formidably. A lot of excellent wines were drunk – Pontet Canet 2005, Pichon Comtesse 1996, Figeac 2000, du Tertre 2000, Pichon Baron 2001 and de Fargues 2001.

5. Next day, Tuesday the 31 March, started with tasting of 2008 wines from Moulis, Listrac and Margaux at Château Labegorce. Soon, we found out that almost all wines were incredibly disappointing, despite rumours that they should be much better. I suspected that samples provided were at least 4 days old and therefore not fit to taste. I retasted all wines from Margaux 2 days later at Marquis de Terme together with Niko from Croatia and it was a different story. Much better appearance!! Niko and me like Tottenham Hotspurs from English Premier Legaue – I have been fan for years, Niko’s two favourite players from Croatia’s national team, Vedran Corluca and Luka Modric play for Tottenham. I met also a really nice guy from Canada, Stephane Hebert, known from forum here.

In the afternoon, Miguel, Niko, my friend from Bordeaux Alex and me went first to Lafite to taste their 2008. I found Lafite to be considerably better than Latour, with more concentration, intensity, better balance, better structure and better finish. From Lafite we went to Montrose. Tronquoy de Sainte Anne and La Dame de Montrose were very nice for second wine quality. Tronquoy Lalande showed fine fruit and ripe tannins, while Montrose made a brawny wine with silky fruit and silky tannin, terrific balance and structure. Next stop was Château Margaux, where we tasted formidable Pavillon Rouge 2008, terrific Margaux 2008 which for me is better than 2007, but not by a mile. Margaux 2006 was simply stunning with its complexity, sheer elegance, aromatic touch and classy style. Pavillon Blanc 2008 was extremely impressive and tasty. Great experience. Paul Pontallier explained things in very distinguished way and Corinne Mentzelopulos added some very funny remarks in between. Last stop was Palmer and we had Palmers winemaker Thomas Duroux as guide. Both Alter Ego and Palmer were simply excellent. Especially Palmer showed its fabulous qualities.

6. On Wednesday the 1st April, it was time to taste St.Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estephe wines at Leoville Poyferre. This time samples were very fresh. Among St.Juliens I liked best Leoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Leoville Poyferre, among Pauillacs Pontet Canet, Pichon Comtesse, Lynch Bages, d’Armailhac and guess who - Croizet Bages! Croizet Bages - ripe fruit, a real charmer, round, perfumed and seductive. Really nice fruit concentration, intensity and aftertaste. No single green or dry flavour to find. Among St.Estephes I liked Cos Labory and Ormes de Pez. During lunch at Leoville Poyferre we tasted excellent Mouton Rothschild 2001 and terrific Leoville Poyferre 1989 and 1983 (both from double magnums). In the afternoon, Niko and me went to Mouton Rothschild. I found d’Armailhac as impressive but a bit more tannic than in the morning, Clerc Milon was better, and Grand Vin seemed to be a bit on the light side, but very stylish, elegant and silky in fruit and tannin.

7. Thursday the 2nd April it was Graves day at Carbonnieux. All the wines I liked three days before at Smith Haut Lafitte performed as fine and I liked Chantegrive in both colours. In the evening during dinner at Canon-La- Gaffeliere, I enjoyed Clos de L’Oratoire 2000, Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2001 and rare Canon-La-Gaffeliere 1950, simply stunning old wine!

8. Friday the 3rd April was final day for press primeur tasting. We started with Cheval Blanc with impressive La Tour de Pin, Le Petit Cheval and Grand Vin. Cheval Blanc had perfectly ripe fruit and tannin, pure elegance, silkiness and smooth finish. Then to Franc Mayne to taste St.Emilions and Pomerols. My favourites were: Beausejour Becot, C-L-Gaffeliere, Dassault, Clos Fourtet, Franc Mayne, Grand Mayne, La Dominique, La Tour Figeac, Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin from St.Emilion. Troplong Mondot and Trottevieille tasted extremely oaky – old samples? From Pomerol I found following wines deserving my attention – Clinet and Gazin. Prior to closing lunch at Canon-La-Gaffeliere, I tasted a range of wines from Count Neipperg portfolio and found d’Aiguilhe, Clos de L’Oratoire, Canon-La-Gaffeliere and La Mondotte pretty terrific. During the lunch I managed to taste pretty terrific wines like Gazin 1989, Figeac 1996, Giscours 2000 (simply excellent!), Canon-La.Gaffeliere 2000, Climens 1979 and d’Yquem 1999. What a treat!

9. On my way out to continue tastings I was asked by Berenice Lurton if I wanted to come to Climens to taste 37 vintages of Climens and 3 vintages of Cypres de Climens on Saturday the 4th April. I answered immediately yes. It was like a gift from heaven – it’s not every day you taste vintages from 2007 to 1964!
Full three hours intense tasting in perfect surroundings and quiet atmosphere. Paradise in heaven! We were in all 14 wine journalists invited. But I’ll not publish my TNs on squires.com, before Neal Martin has finished his article – gentleman agreement.
Then Miguel and me landed at Pavie where all Perse wines were showing stupendously, especially Montbousquet blanc, Pavie Decesse, Bellevue Mondotte and Pavie. Great experience. From there we went to Angelus and found Angelus strong and well-made. Next was PGCC St.Emilion and my likings were Magdelaine, Trottevieille, La Gaffeliere, Figeac, Beausejour, Clos Fourtet, Pavie and Beausejour Becot. From there I took Miguel with me to Tertre Rotebouf. I only tasted 2006 and 2001 of TR and RdC and 2005 TR. Both 2006s were simply fabulous.

10 After well-deserved rest during the weekend, it was Sauternes and Barsac day on Monday the 6th April. At Nairac, I retasted 2008, which I found as impressive as on Monday the 30th March. I retasted also 2006, 2005, 2004 and 2003, with 2003 still being an immensely extravagant wine, beautifully performing 2005 and terrific 2006 which gets better and better everytime I taste it.
Then d’Yquem to taste 5 last bottled vintages – 2005-4-3-2-1. Two hours of heavenly delight, perfectly conducted by Sandrine Garbay, Yquem’s cellarmaster. But all about this tasting in separate thread in the near future.
In the afternoon I went to Climens to taste only 2008 from several barrels (pickings). This vintage should be another great achievement for Climens – no doubt about it!
Next was de Fargues, where barrel sample was much better than week ago. Excellent effort! I asked Count Alexandre de Lur Saluces to open a vintage which is close to my heart – 2003! This was a extravagant treat – extremely powerful on the nose with grilled/smoked aromas, nuts, mango, opulent and extremely long aftertaste.
Last stop was Raymond Lafon with its sublime, elegant and sophisticated wines. 2008 was pretty terrific, 2007 stronger and more concentrated, 2006 extremely aromatic and elegant, and a showstopper personalized by 2005, which showed great purity, great balance, great intensity of flavours and extreme richness.

11. Tuesday the 7th I tasted in the morning 2008 and 2005 vintage from Jean-Philippe Janoueix. In 2008, Croix Mouton, Le Conseiller and 20 Mille showed splendidly, while La Croix St.Georges and La Confession (ex Haut-Pontet now) were simply excellent. All his 2005s showed even better and particulary La Croix St.Georges 2005 was a dream to taste.

12. Then to my last visit – Lafleur in Pomerol. Tasted Lafleur 2007 and 2008. 2008 was clearly better with better fruit, tannins and balance. Excellent. Jacques Guinaudeau was in very relaxed shape. He was extremely happy with his effort and also glad for Grand Village Blanc 2008. So was I. Pensées de Lafleur 2008 won also big over it 2007 counterpart.

13. In the afternoon I went back to Bordeaux and wanted to finish my fantastic two weeks with great dinner at La Tupina. But it wasn’t to be unfortunately. To paraphrase great classic from AC/DC, “Thunderstruck” (I saw them btw in Stockholm two months ago, after more than 30 years in business they still kick major ass) I was “Salmonellaestruck”. Not precisely the end of my trip I hoped for, but c’est la vie. I could have eaten at La Tupina before primeur week and be poisoned causing no participation in tastings, missing f.i. Climens and d’Yquem!!!

So what’s my view at 2008 vintage – generally fine vintage, which generally reminds me of vintage 2001. But some properties link their wine to vintage 1988, 1998, 2004 and 2006. After bottling we will truly see in what direction wines will go. But it’s pretty sure for after tasting about 250 wines, that vintage 2008 is at least mile above 2007.

[ChrisW]

Great report from what must have been two wonderful weeks in Bordeaux!

What do you think about the overall quality of Sauternes in 2008, compared to 2007 and 2005?

Which wines would you put on a short list as potential buys? (of course not knowing the price)

regards,

ChrisW

PS. This is not the Squires Board so perhaps your gentleman's agreement with Neal Martin does not include publication on this site so that you can maybe post the notes of the terrific Climens tasting? How did the 2001 and 2003 turn out in the impressive line-up?

[greatbxfreak]

ChrisW,

The wines i mentioned are worth to buy in 2008 if price is right.

I will think about posting Climens tasting notes here in the near future.

Sauternes & Barsac are in my opinion lighter and not so rich in 2008, than in 2005 and 2008.

Yes, it was hell of the trip.

[ChrisW]

Thanks.

There are a lot of wines on your "to buy" list!

You mentioned that you liked the d'Aiguilhe. This has been my most favourite QPR Bordeaux starting with the 1999 vintage, but I found the 2005 vintage of this wine a bit extreme and almost overripe on the two occassions I've tasted this wine. Maybe my samples were not completely representative and/or the wine will calm down, but how was the 2008?

regards,

Chris

[greatbxfreak]

Not overblown as it sometimes appears to be. At the right price, it's pretty nice value for the money. Btw, Cotes de Castillon did extremely well in vintage 2008!

[JimHow]

Just got back from two hours with the dentist so I'm a little disoriented but your notes look great Izak, I'm looking forward to reading them over more carefully tonight.

[DavidG]

Sounds like a fabulous trip, Izak! Some very interesting observations. Let us know where to find your detailed TNs - I know there is more where that came from!

[Tom In DC]

Thank you so much, Izak, for posting your notes from what must have been a great visit! Random comments:

We went through a case of '82 La Violette back in the day, very nice, fleshy Merlot... Production must have been much higher than 900 bottles!

If it's a lookalike for the '89 Lynch Bages-killer from 1988, we'll have to procure some 2008 Vieux Chateau Certan for future conventions!

Re: "Fayat-Thunevin (L.d.Pomerol), Fayat-Thunevin (Pomerol)", I say (in my best alchemeus voice) "Pffft" for adding to the confusion of Bordeaux wine names...

La Mission wasn't always known for its "well-known silkiness and velvety structure"...must be winemaker over terroir unless generations before the recent releases were never true to the vineyards...

Re: "But I’ll not publish my TNs on squires.com, before Neal Martin has finished his article – gentleman agreement." Feel free to publish your notes here, my friend!

I've often enjoyed young bottles of Magdelaine, but am usually disappointed after I've held them for a few years. What has your experience been with this estate?

We had a great meal at the Tupina courtesy of AlexR and Christine last fall...I hope the meal there didn't strike you with the thunderbolts!

Again, thanks for your extensive narrative!

Ciao,
Tom

[rjsussex]

Thanks Izak - really helpful. With the UK pound so weak these will be expensive, even with the much-lauded reductions. Just might be able to sign up for the Dom de Chevalier...

Do you find the post-Derenencourt style of the DdChev red has changed the wine significantly? I like the 01 and 04 but perhaps the 04 is a touch more modern?

Best

Richard

[DavidG]

Sounds like a fabulous trip. The Climens tasting sounds particularly awesome, and that's without even seeing the details. Thanks for sharing your impressions, Izak. Let's see those Climens and Yquem notes!