Can a winemaker, can make good wines on regular terroir?

[Nicklasss]

Stéphane Derenoncourt. A name almost unknown, 7 years ago. Today, one of the most "en vogue" winemaker from Bordeaux. I read a few of his interviews, and the main concern to him: always get the terroir clearly defined in the wines he is vinifying. Is it possible?

Few years ago, I tried a wine called 2009 St-Émilion Parcelles from Derenoncourt. The philosophy: assemblage of grape from many (less glorious, or less known) parcelles from St-Émilion, and make a blend that represents well the typicity of the AOC. A real challenge, but i must say that this wine was full of typicity, clearly a St-Émilion: plum, minerals, ripe red berries, lush, soft tannins, decent length.

Last night, I tried the 2010 St-Estèphe Parcelles from Derenoncourt. Again, I liked very much the wine, as it was having a lot of typicity from the AOC, clearly a mix of austere Cabernet Sauvignon from Graves and clay, and a relatively good proportion of clay Merlot. Nice purple color, i must say that the wine was dumb for the first 90 minutes. But after, it opened up on blackcurrants, minerals, Black plums, light violet flowers. In mouth, medium body, with clear flavors of blackcurrants, dark berries, light licorice, something flowery, but with some austerity too. Lots of ripe tannins, light oak, and a light to medium final on minerals, light blue berry concentrate. Very balanced, it is clear that the wine as some power, but at the same time stays refined. Again, i can only say that i liked that wine for representing correctly the typicity of the St-Estèphe terroir. So congratulations to Mr. Derenoncourt. I consider Both of these wines, as some of the best introduction to these Bordeaux terroir. TN: 88.

Nic

[DavidG]

Nice note to accompany the question. I think you have answered it "yes," and I agree with you Nic.

IMO, the terroir, the weather (while climate is part of terroir, weather is still variable from year to year), and the winemaker (and winegrower) all have an important influence on the wine. A skilled grower and winemaker can make a very good wine from "regular" terroir, assuming the weather is decent as well. But he won't be able to make a wine that is the equivalent of Cos or Montrose in a great year. The terroir sets a limit to how far winemaking can take you.

[Rudi Finkler]

I have to disagree, David. The skills and the financial resources of the winemakers set the limit, not the terroir. Different terroir only means different flavors in an wine.

[DavidG]

Hmm, well I agree with your disagreement Rudi. The terroir and the winemaker both set limits. A winemaker without skills or financial resources cannot make great wine even from great terroir.

But I still believe that the terroir also sets a limit. And while it's true that different styles or flavors come from different terroirs, some areas are just not capable of producing good wine regardless of the winemaker's brilliance and financial resources. Do you think good wine can be made in the tropics? I don't. Unless of course you define "good" as representative of the terroir, no matter how the wine performs in the balance/flavor/aroma/pleasure spheres.

We also may be looking at this from different perspectives of degree. I have had a few good wines from Virginia and even from Maryland, not areas known for their terroir. So it can be done. But it's a lot less common than in the well-known winemaking areas of the world. And I've never had a great wine from VA or MD. Is that due solely to lack of skill and finances? I don't think so.

[Rudi Finkler]

Of course, you cannot make wine in the tropics or in the desert, at least not yet. We are taking about regular terroir, well suited for viticulture.

If the terroir is good, and the winemaker is great and wealthy, he can make splendid wines in lesser known appellations, every bit as good as the top wines in more prestigious neighbouring appellations. Look at Roc de Cambes, Lafleur de Boüard, Martet Reserve de Famille, De Chambrun, D’Agassac, Moulin Haut-Laroque, Balthus, etc.

Whether you prefer Pichon Comtesse or Martet Reserve de Famille, D’Issan or Roc de Cambes, etc., is only a question of your own preferences, not a question of quality. Strict selection at all levels is the secret of all great wines all over the world, not the terroir! And selection, David, is always a question of cost-effectiveness considerations and financial resources ... The stricter the selection, the better the wine, the better the price that can be demanded on the market.

Nevertheless, the discussion about terroir is very, very complex, intertwined with countless aspects… history, marketing, personal preferences, politics, condition of the soil, skills of the winemakers, technological possibilities, financial resources, etc.…

[jmccready]

Strict selection from a regular terroir will give you the best of a regular terroir, but it will be different material than the best selection from a great terroir. The difference in good and great terroirs
often can be attributed to the soil. One can achieve the same ripeness from neighboring plots and the winemaker can use his skills in extracting both sites, hence the weight, color,
acidity, etc may give a similar style. But the purity, complexity, finish, etc will usually show through from the better site. The market has been setting different prices for wines based
on this quality difference. Many customers can't tell the difference thereby saving a lot of money. Most tasters on this site fall in the latter camp and our finances likely reflect it. JM

[stefan]

Michel Rolland's philosophy is to manipulate the grapes that come from lesser terroirs but not from the great terroirs.