Is 2010 all it's cracked up to be?

[Bacchus]

Here are some tasting notes from around Bordeaux by JR. They might make you think twice about the quality of 2010.

Southwold 2010 - left-bank reds

5 Feb 2014 by Jancis Robinson

As heralded by Alex's dialogue yesterday and in my article Can you have too much
fine wine?, Alex and I were two of 19 tasters who had the great pleasure of
spending three days tasting a total of 328 bordeaux 2010s of both colours in
the Suffolk town of Southwold (its beach huts as seen on the last morning are
pictured).

My fellow tasters included fellow hacks Neal Martin and Steven Spurrier and
representatives of Adnams, Averys of Bristol, Berkmann Wines (Alex), Berry
Bros, Bordeaux Index, Corney & Barrow, DBM Wines, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare
Wines, Four Walls Wine, Goedhuis, Justerini & Brooks, Reid Wines, Savage
Selection and The Wine Society. Recently retired Bill Blatch of Bordeaux did
all the hard work of going round the châteaux gathering samples (kindly donated
in most cases) and driving them across the Channel. He also gathered our
combined comments to deliver back to producers who have varying degrees of
interest in them.

The hard work in Southwold was done by Rob Chase of Adnams, Aidan Bell of DBM
and Stephen Browett of Farr's son Ben, who marshalled the bottles into suitable
flights, opened them, served them blind and collected our scores before their
identities were revealed. For the first time this year, we had the pleasure of
tasting out of Riedel glasses rather than small ones. Sensible Wine Services
helped us enormously.

This is an annual event but we were all looking forward particularly to seeing
this widely admired vintage well settled into bottle. See, for example, Bill
Blatch on Bordeaux 2010 - the wines and Bill Blatch on Bordeaux 2010 - the
vines. I'll be publishing my overall impressions on Saturday.

With all these wines to 'look at', we worked quite hard on the detail of our
tasting schedule, ensuring that we were at our freshest when tasting the most
important (for which read, ridiculously expensive) wines. This meant inevitably
that some flights were tasted immediately after our light(ish) lunches and at
the end of the day. But in fact these wines were slightly less tiring to taste
than the particularly rich, ripe 2009s because they tended to be slightly less
alcoholic, and although there is no shortage whatsoever of tannin, the tannins
in the best wines were very ripe.

The main fault in the least impressive of these left-bank wines was a lack of
ripe fruit. This was particularly evident in the least ambitious petits
châteaux and most carelessly assembled second wines. The Margaux rarely shone -
with a few exceptions tannins tended to be very drying and raw - whereas there
were more high flyers from St-Estèphe than usual ,even though the fruit tended
to be riper and more obvious than in more traditional St-Estèphes.

Pauillacs were very varied. It was our first flight of lesser Pauillacs that
drove home to me how much more successful the lush fruitiness of the 2009s was
than the stringier, skinnier 2010s at this level. The same was true of many
crus bourgeois although there were some delightful exceptions.

I was more impressed by the St-Julien flight than was Alex. They were all bone
dry and very 'classic'. All needed time but in the best there was wonderfully
ripe fruit and tannin grafted on to the usual firm backbone. That said, the
Ducru-Beaucaillou and its second wine shone less brightly for me than when I
tasted them en primeur. Pessac-Léognans tasted immediately after the Margaux
were much more impressive. This is a vintage that really suited the red wines
from this southern appellation.

Needless to say, the first growths were absolutely wonderful - but so they
should have been, given their sky-high prices. The best-value wines are the
try-harder, also-ran châteaux (GV in the notes below = good value). Here is a
preview of the ones I'm recommending as good buys this Saturday, with the
average per-bottle price cited by wines-earcher.com - though note that these
rarely include taxes.

Deyrem Valentin, Pessac-Léognan £18
Phelan Ségur, St-Estèphe £33
Capbern Gasqueton, St-Estèphe £16
Fourcas-Borie, Listrac-Médoc £13
Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande, Haut-Médoc £15
de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc £12
Malescasse, Haut-Médoc £12
Tour St-Bonnet, Médoc £11
Beaumont, Haut-Médoc £11
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Tasting notes are listed alphabetically by producer within their appellation or
group of appellations, which are ordered thus:

Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Moulis & Listrac
St-Estèphe
Pauillac
St-Julien
Margaux
Pessac-Léognan

MÉDOC, HAUT-MÉDOC, MOULIS, & LISTRAC

Ch d'Agassac 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
Bright crimson. Hearty, ripe nose. Easy, rather unambitious fruit. Almost soft!


Ch Anthonic 2010 Moulis 14.5 Drink 2015-2018
Mid red. Light and easy but not really very ambitious. Too simple really.

Ch Arnauld 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2017-2023
Healthy crimson. Quite soft and easy at first. Lots of ripe fruit covers the
tannins. A bit of foxglove sharpness.

Ch d'Aurilhac 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2015-2018
Bright red. Quite an evolved nose. Easy and round already. Some yeast-extract
flavours. Hearty stuff.

Ch Beaumont 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2016-2023
Very healthy crimson. Rather sophisticated nose with some redcurrant fruit and
real freshness. Polished and subtle. Very appetising. Quite flashy with a
slightly drying finish.

Ch Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande 2010 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2016-2023
Very refreshing nose. Lots of energy but only medium intensity on the palate.
Minerals, refreshment and nice balance here even if it is not showy. Good
stuff.

Ch Belgrave 2010 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2015-2024
Dark healthy, glossy crimson. Quite a complex nose. Thick and dense with lots of
work having gone into the texture of this very obviously. Glamorous wine!

Ch Bernadotte 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2021
Slightly muddy red. Not the freshest fruit on the nose. A bit austere and
lacking fruit. Pinches the palate on the end.

Ch Branas Grand Poujeaux 2010 Moulis 16 Drink 2015-2022
Very dark purple. Thick and sweet. Not that fresh but makes a splash. Rather New
Worldy… Dry finish. Hot finish.

Ch Brillette 2010 Moulis 15.5 Drink 2016-2021
Dark and luscious. Firm and fine. Polished.

Ch Cambon La Pelouse 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2018-2023
Thick and dense with lots of acidity. Very chewy and just a slight lack of
juice. But very seductive velvety texture. It may all come right...? But this
needs time.

Ch Camensac 2010 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2018-2026
Intense and juicy with a savoury edge. Good balance though a little spindly.
Quite rich and velvety textured.

Ch Caronne Ste-Gemme 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
Rather simple crimson. Easy and round but with an unappetising green streak.
Quite dilute.

Ch Chasse-Spleen 2010 Moulis 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Very dark. Sweet and rich. Thick and beguiling. Real concentration. Freshness as
well as very ripe fruit. GV?

Ch Cissac 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2021
Lightish crimson. Solid fruit. Marked tannin. Very typical without being very
distinctive. I suspect the tannins will always be a bit intrusive.

Ch Citran 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2015-2019
Mid crimson. Light and fresh. Easy peasy wine that disguises its tannins very
well.

Ch Clarke 2010 Listrac 16 Drink 2017-2024
Sweet fruit. Mouthfilling and good balance even if not thrilling. Very honest.

Ch Clément Pichon 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2015-2020
Glossy crimson. Smoky nose. Sweet and round. Lots of fruit. Glossy and rather
floral. Medium weight. Slight green streak. Not intense but good balance.

Ch Coufran 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2021
Simple crimson colour. Fresh and bloody nose. Fairly lightweight. A bit simple.


Ch Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2010 Moulis 16 Drink 2016-2026
Savoury, inky nose. Round and easy. Quite powerful! Even if not top drawer.

Ch d'Escurac 2010 Médoc 16 Drink 2015-2020
Dark ruby. Quite opulent on the nose. Sweet start – very winning and modern.
Some richness and no greenness.

Ch Fonréaud 2010 Listrac 15 Drink 2017-2025
Ripe and velvety in texture. Lots of dry tannins on the finish. Just a bit dead.


Ch Fontis 2010 Médoc 14.5 Drink 2016-2020
Dark crimson. A bit stinky on the nose. Tart. Rather rigid fruit. Bone-dry
finish. Drying tannins.

Ch Fourcas Dupré 2010 Listrac 14 Drink 2017-2022
Rather stewed fruit. Tart on the palate.

Ch Fourcas Hosten 2010 Listrac 14.5 Drink 2016-2020
Lively and fresh. Light and quite tart. Bit of green.

Ch Fourcas-Borie 2010 Listrac 16.5 Drink 2016-2023
Dark crimson. Thick, sweet and fresh. Lots of excitement. Spicy. Long. Dry
finish.

Ch La Garricq 2010 Moulis 16 Drink 2016-2021
Lively crimson. Very racy and floral on the nose. Not the toughest by any means
– in fact the charge of tannins is pretty low – but pretty and easy to like.
Refreshing if slightly light.

Ch Les Grands Chênes 2010 Médoc 16.5 Drink 2017-2023
Dark crimson. Medium intensity on the nose. Rich and savoury. Classic claret!
Well constructed. Desperately needs food. Dry finish but quite subtle fruit.

Ch Greysac 2010 Médoc 15.5 Drink 2016-2021
Healthy deep crimson. Upholstery webbing on the nose. Then smooth and a bit
simple. Easy drinking and quite a bit of meatiness to this.

Ch Haut-Condissas 2010 Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
Not very deep in colour. Easy and round. Not that ambitious and quite tough on
the end.

Ch L'Inclassable 2010 Médoc 15.5 Drink 2017-2021
Thick and sweet. Lots to get your teeth into! Both fruit and tannins here in
spades. But the extraction has been pushed so that it's a little bitter on the
end.

Ch La Lagune 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2018-2025
Broad and sweet. Not luscious but reasonably user-friendly.

Ch de Lamarque 2010 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2016-2023
Rose-scented fruit. Rather pretty and fresh. Lots of fun. Juicy. Complete.

Ch Lamothe-Bergeron 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2015-2019
Dense bright red. Round and fresh. More forward than most but vigorous. Eerily
forward. But a nice package. Minerally.

Ch Lanessan 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2016-2025
Very sweet and lively and vibrant. But it falls apart a little on the end.

Ch Larose Perganson 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2017-2023
Thick crimson. A tart streak. Really rather demanding.

Ch Larose-Trintaudon 2010 Haut-Médoc 14.5 Drink 2015-2018
Mid crimson. Graphite nose. Lots of rather simple sweetness upfront. More acid
than tannin. A bit charmless.

Ch Lestage 2010 Listrac 16.5 Drink 2016-2022
Dark ruby. Sweet (from fruit not oak) and easy to like. Polished and with good
intensity. Lots of vigour.

Ch Liversan 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
Light ruby. Pale rim. Light, sweetish tea-leaf aromas. Easy peasy but awfully
light and unambitious.

Ch Loudenne 2010 Médoc 14 Drink 2015-2018
Dark crimson with ruby rim. Low-key, rather simple nose. Sweet start. A bit
vapid. Not much concentration here. Very astringent finish.

Ch Malescasse 2010 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2017-2024
Dark crimson. Rather glossy and sophisticated on the nose. This almost tastes
like a classed growth! Lovely stuff. Beautifully rich but fluid and refreshing.


Ch Malmaison 2010 Moulis 15.5 Drink 2018-2023
Mid ruby. Lightish and savoury. Some tannins stick out a bit. Rather jagged.

Ch Maucaillou 2010 Moulis 15 Drink 2015-2020
Relatively light ruby. Muddy nose. Sweet and light. Chewy. Lots of acidity.

Ch Maucamps 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
A little stinky. Stolid and a bit stodgy in terms of tannin quality. Falls away
fast on the finish.

Ch Maurac 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2016-2024
Smudgy ruby. Quite intense and glamorous on the nose. Very complete with the
tannins almost submerged by ripe fruit. Thick and velvety. Just not that
persistent.

Ch du Moulin Rouge 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2016-2025
Luscious-looking blackish ruby. Strange/interesting smell of putty! Round and
bloody somehow. Lots here to chew on. A classic wine from a classic vintage
obviously.

Ch Les Ormes Sorbet 2010 Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2020
Dark purplish crimson. Lively, healthy crimson. Relatively light but
well-mannered nose. Medium-intensity fruit and a dry finish. Respectable
without being exciting.

Ch Paloumey 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2017-2024
Lively ruby. Perfumed. Round and quite luscious. Savoury. But the tannins
suggest a bit of time is needed. A tad austere overall though.

Ch Patache d'Aux 2010 Médoc 16 Drink 2016-2020
Pale ruby. Light, soapy nose. Easy wine that's very well balanced. The fruit was
not that intense but it has been handled with great sensitivity.

Ch Pontoise Cabarrus 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2017-2025
Crimson and a smudgy, indistinct nose. Floral start and then the tannins trump
the fruit. Pretty good but a long-term wine. Some polish and attractive
inkiness but needs time.

Ch Potensac, Chapelle de Potensac 2010 Médoc 16 Drink 2017-2023
Very blue. Savoury and fresh on the nose even if not that intense. Very dry
finish. Correct though not generous. Sappy. Needs time.

Ch Potensac 2010 Médoc 16+ Drink 2018-2025
Bright crimson. Very light nose. But the palate has lots of energy and delivery.
Still youthful but should deliver eventually.

Ch Poujeaux 2010 Moulis 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Rich and round. Drying finish. Lots of sweetness. Rather small scale.

Ch du Retout 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2015-2021
Bright crimson. Inky with some of the fragrance of Cabernet Franc. Vigorous and
with great energy and focus but already quite open. Sappy and savoury. A very
nice drink already even if not a powerhouse

Ch Rollan de By 2010 Médoc 15.5 Drink 2016-2018
Dark ruby. Light rather soapy nose. Then sweet fruit that should beguile some
tasters. As though much of the flavour was derived from oak rather than fruit.
A little sickly but it's certainly not too dry.

Ch Sénéjac 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2015-2021
Rich and sweet with good drive and lusciousness. Though not that dense.

Ch Sociando-Mallet 2010 Haut-Médoc 17 Drink 2020-2040
Blueish purple. Nose not that intense. But really rich on the front palate.
Purple fruits. Not that St-Estèphe but very seductive. (I tasted this blind in
a flight of St-Estèphes.) Lots entrenched here. Ambitious.

Ch Soudars 2010 Haut-Médoc 15.5 Drink 2014-2019
Bright crimson. Not that ripe on the nose. But fresh and clean – and not green!
Round and almost soft. Very advanced.

Ch La Tour Carnet 2010 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2018-2028
Very round and juicy. Sappy and lip smacking.

Ch La Tour de By 2010 Médoc 14.5 Drink 2015-2017
Bright crimson. Very light nose. Astringent. The fruit seems to have been sucked
out of this wine.

Ch Tour Séran 2010 Médoc 15.5 Drink 2015-2019
Bright crimson. Clean, quite intense nose. Sweet start. Just a little lacking in
fruit intensity and with a hint of oak sweetness. A little astringent at the
end.

Ch Tour St-Bonnet 2010 Médoc 16.5 Drink 2014-2019
Mid crimson. Lively, fresh nose full of fruit. Quite a forward wine with rosy
fruit almost masking the tannin. A success.

Ch Verdignan 2010 Haut-Médoc 15 Drink 2016-2021
Light nose and a tad dull. Solid and chewy.

Ch Vieux Robin, Bois de Lunier 2010 Médoc 16 Drink 2018-2022
Vigorous crimson. Strange smell that's a little reminiscent of drains. Very
tough on the palate. Good density. It will probably all come together
eventually!


ST-ESTÈPHE

Ch Calon-Ségur, Marquis de Calon 2010 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2018-2030
Luscious and very fruity. Some real juice and excitement. Lift.

Ch Calon-Ségur 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Very dark crimson. Hint of green on the nose. Lots of acidity on the palate, as
well as a most attractively smooth texture. Tastes as though a lot of
winemaking work went into this but that the fruit was not all that ripe.

Ch Capbern Gasqueton 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2017-2029
Minerally, underneath fully ripe nose but attractive in a graphite way. Lots of
juice and great balance.

Ch Clauzet 2010 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2018-2026
Minerals and sinew on the nose. Easy, fluid and not that dense. But classic
build. Floral.

Ch Cos d'Estournel, Pagodes de Cos 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2020-2030
Clean, fresh, minerally nose. Bracing! Classic St-Estèphe. Bone dry and light to
medium bodied.

Ch Cos d'Estournel 2010 St-Estèphe 18 Drink 2020-2038
Very healthy deep crimson. Luscious fruit. Very beguiling. Spreads right across
the palate. Extremely seductive. Just slightly inky on the finish at the moment
but there is masses of ripe fruit and tannin here.

Ch Cos Labory 2010 St-Estèphe 17.5 Drink 2020-2035
Rich and round. Then a bit green and tart on the very end. But hugely opulent
before that. Lighter bodied and more refreshing than some. Very winning. GV

Ch Le Crock 2010 St-Estèphe 15.5 Drink 2019-2027
Dark purple. Sweet and fresh. Solid and juicy. But it finishes a bit suddenly.

Ch Haut-Beauséjour 2010 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2018-2027
Light and rather innocuous on the nose and then, oddly, a bit heavy and
ponderous on the palate. Lots of chew and density.

Ch Haut-Marbuzet 2010 St-Estèphe 17 Drink 2022-2035
Broad, opulent nose with a suggestion of oak. Neat and well balanced. Very
typical of 2010 with its just-ripe fruit and very firm tannin. Hint of alcohol
on the end. Drying finish.

Ch Lafon-Rochet 2010 St-Estèphe 17 Drink 2018-2032
Dark and rich in colour. Baked, sweet and biscuity. Very modern style. Classy
and very rewarding. Not the most typical but very well made. Could do with a
little more lift?

Ch Lilian Ladouys 2010 St-Estèphe 15.5 Drink 2018-2028
Polished and sweet. Easy peasy and lots of charm. Just a bit chocolatey.

Ch Meyney 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5+ Drink 2020-2030
Very dark. Intense and ticks the boxes but not that intriguing. Just a little
stodgy. May take on more interest as it matures. Some alcohol on the finish.

Ch Montrose, La Dame de Montrose 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Rather soapy nose (from a well-used glass!). Some greenness here – a little
austere. On the cusp of typicality and austerity. Falls away on the end.

Ch Montrose 2010 St-Estèphe 18+ Drink 2020-2040
Black! Very dramatic and ripe on the nose. Surely some strict selection here…
Rich, spicy nose. Very solid and concentrated and attention-grabbing. Bone-dry
finish. Very classical. Long. This does have some St-Estèphe character despite
its concentration.

Ch Les Ormes de Pez 2010 St-Estèphe 17- Drink 2018-2032
Hint of sweet, very slightly oily, oak on the nose. Slithery texture and masses
of acidity on the finish, as well as a medium charge of tannins. A tad austere.
Acidity rather than genuine freshness of fruit.

Ch Petit Bocq 2010 St-Estèphe 15 Drink 2016-2025
Sweet and a bit tarty. Dried-out palate.

Ch de Pez 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2016-2028
Sweet, bright fruit in the Médocain mould. Neat and relatively luscious – ticks
the boxes even if it is unlikely to make anyone's heart beat faster. Some
persistence.

Ch Phélan Ségur 2010 St-Estèphe 17.5 Drink 2020-2035
Dark crimson. Sweet, 'modern' and beguiling. Very different from most
St-Estèphes. Luxurious and not that typical of the appellation but certainly
seems designed to score points! Rich. Just the right side of chocolatey.
Bone-dry finish.

Ch Sérilhan 2010 St-Estèphe 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Dense and fresh. Lots of chewiness. A bit lean.

Ch Tour de Pez 2010 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2017-2027
Dark crimson. Solid and fresh and classical if a tad dry on the end. Just a bit
too much meat and chocolate on the end.

Ch Tronquoy Lalande 2010 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Lots of sweetness and juice. Round and fresh. A winning combo. Complete.


PAUILLAC

Ch d'Armailhac 2010 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2020-2032
Dark crimson. Complete and complex on the nose. Light and fresh. Very attractive
and well balanced but no blockbuster. Some mineral character.

Ch Batailley 2010 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2018-2032
Savoury and toasted on the nose. The fruit is good but just a tad lacking in
lift. Solid rather than inspiring. Just a little stringy.

Ch Clerc Milon 2010 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2038
Very dark crimson. Intense and luscious on the nose. Manages to be both round
and inky! Great intensity and structure. Although some restraint too – it
certainly isn't OTT.

Ch Croizet-Bages 2010 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2019-2030
Very lively, rather ethereal nose. Masses of ripe tannins. Good fruit weight and
very dry on the end.

Ch Duhart-Milon 2010 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2018-2026
Dark purple. Fragrant. Cassis nose. Only medium weight – very fresh. Smells of
fertiliser – like my father's old shop. A tad austere. But the texture is
lovely.

Ch Fonbadet 2010 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2030
Ripe and a good minerally spread across the palate. Bone dry but there is some
weight in the middle here.

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2010 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2019-2027
Broad and ripe on the nose. Quite marked acidity and tannin. Set for the long
term.

Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2010 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2026
Dark purplish crimson. Fresh nose but not fully ripe. A little simple. Fruity
and early maturing. Slightly green on the end.

Ch Haut-Bages Libéral 2010 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2028
Winning blackcurrant fruit on the nose. Lots of ripeness even if not that much
subtlety. Still a little raw but should mellow into something fun.

Ch Haut-Batailley 2010 Pauillac 15 Drink 2018-2024
Cassis nose. Some greenness. Falls away on the finish.

Ch Lafite 2010 Pauillac 18 Drink 2019-2035
Sweet, rich on the nose. Sweet and round and easy to like. Lots of tannin and
savour on the end after some very rich fruit. Just a little drying on the
finish. Noble but not yet charming.

Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2010 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2045
Lustrous dark crimson. Very flashy and attention-grabbing. Lots of sweetness and
ripeness. Not classical in style but great freshness and ripe tannin on the end.
Lots going on here. A popular choice.

Ch Latour 2010 Pauillac 19 Drink 2024-2050
Very dark indeed. Concentrated black-fruit essence plus terroir. Round and
supple. Lots of angularity. Latour? Great refreshment factor and lots of
minerality. Very clean finish. Thick and admirable.

Ch Lynch Bages, Écho de Lynch Bages 2010 Pauillac 15 Drink 2017-2024
Still looks very youthful. Mildly herbaceous nose. Was the fruit fully ripe?
Definite greenness.

Ch Lynch Bages 2010 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2018-2037
Lifted and lightly soapy. A little lean at first and then sweet on the finish.
Competent without being exciting. A bit solid and earthbound with a note of
green. But it's quite persistent.

Ch Lynch-Moussas 2010 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2019-2027
First bottle smelt dirty. Second bottle much better. Quite refined, complex
minerally nose. A bit tight and taut on the finish.

Ch Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton 2010 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2040
Savoury, appetising nose. Neat and fresh with real intensity. Nothing out of
line. Just the essence of the vintage. Not showy. Lots of classy tannin and
top-quality Cabernet.

Ch Mouton Rothschild 2010 Pauillac 19 Drink 2020-2038
Humming, intense, ripe Cabernet fruit. Plays the concentration card but is not
perhaps as intellectually stimulating as some. Just very slightly dead on the
end. Electric on retasting.

Ch Pedesclaux 2010 Pauillac 15 Drink 2018-2024
Cedar-shavings nose. All fully ripe on the nose but just a little dry on the
finish. Clean and vigorous. But just a little lean on the finish.

Ch Pibran 2010 Pauillac 16 Drink 2020-2032
Quite opulent nose. Hint of creamy oak. Spreads across the palate convincingly.
Bone dry. Certainly not flattering but very correct. Should make old bones.

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Réserve de la Comtesse 2010 Pauillac
15.5 Drink 2018-2026
Mild wine without strong distinguishing marks and a little softer than its
peers. Marked acidity on the finish.

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2019-2030
Blackish crimson. Rather muddy 'mineral' nose. Lots of stewed blackberry
flavour. Softer than most. But alluring – just a bit spiky.

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron), Les Tourelles de Longueville 2010 Pauillac 15.5
Drink 2018-2025
Cassis and cedar nose. Reasonable fruit but a bit spindly overall.

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2010 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2028
Blueish purple. Sweet start. Relatively simple. Correct and lightish without
being dramatic. This did not stand out for me at first but everyone else loved
it - as I normally do!

Ch Pontet-Canet 2010 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2018-2032
Very dark and glossy. First bottle has a modest nose – low-key TCA? Second
bottle: Super clean and brilliant – glossily alluring on the nose. Not heavy in
any way. Quite lifted and light. Very ethereal. Maybe could have done with just
a little more concentration? But presumably there is a deliberate attempt to be
light and lifted?


ST-JULIEN

Ch Beychevelle 2010 St-Julien 17.5 Drink 2020-2034
Meaty nose with a strong cassis streak. Opulent and mildly inky. Lots of
pleasure here. Masses of ripe fruit distracts from tannin.

Ch Branaire-Ducru 2010 St-Julien 17.5 Drink 2020-2035
Really broad, ripe and appealing on the nose when tasted immediately after a
flight of lesser Pauillacs. Silky and sweet – unusually so for a St-Julien –
with lots of ripe fruit overpowering the considerable tannic charge. Quite a
bit of alcohol. Bone-dry finish. Relatively opulent.

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou, La Croix de Beaucaillou 2010 St-Julien 16.5 Drink
2017-2026
Smooth and very fine. Easy to appreciate. But not that concentrated even though
the balance and persistence are excellent.

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2010 St-Julien 16.5+ Drink 2016-2028
Lighter rim than most. Aromatic and round. Not the most ambitious St-Julien but
already an attractive, well-balanced drink – which is a bit odd in this
vintage! Easy peasy. This bottle seemed to lack a little bit of drive.

Ch Gloria 2010 St-Julien 15 Drink 2016-2022
Very rich and sweet with some meat-extract notes. The fruit is a bit submerged
in the oak. Hard work!

Ch Gruaud Larose 2010 St-Julien 17 Drink 2017-2030
Blueish purple. Strong cassis nose. Rather sweet for a St-Julien. Distinctly
flattering and velvety. This could arguably do with just a little more
freshness. But it's a very seductive drink.

Ch Lagrange 2010 St-Julien 16 Drink 2020-2030
Nose is quite reserved. Something a tad green on the nose here. Neat and well
mannered on the palate but distinctly dry. Not a generously proportioned wine.


Ch Lalande Borie 2010 St-Julien 15.5 Drink 2016-2026
Sweet cocoa oak. Thick and sweet and flashy – not subtle but good enough and
everything is in its place. Just a very slightly sour note on the end. Tart
finish.

Ch Langoa Barton 2010 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Lightly oaky/cheesy nose. Medium weight with good freshness and not the ripest
of fruit. Very neat and with less obvious tannin than some.

Ch Léoville Barton, La Réserve de Léoville Barton 2010 St-Julien 15.5 Drink
2017-2027
Inky and luscious. Lots of sweetness. Some heady lily perfume. But overall a bit
dry on the end. Actually drying.

Ch Léoville Barton 2010 St-Julien 17 Drink 2022-2040
Hint of coconut oak on the nose. Intense and dry. Far from charming and very dry
tannins – a bit like a Barton wine. Solid but I'd like a little more lift.
Impressive rather than charming. Very drying tannins at the moment.

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Le Petit Lion 2010 St-Julien 15.5 Drink 2018-2026
Vibrant but a bit sharp on the nose. Lots of acidity. Juicy and fresh. But too
tart to be a real winner.

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Clos du Marquis 2010 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Ripe and fragrant, almost Merloty. An early maturer for a 2010 St-Julien. Very
charming. Could almost be a second wine?

Ch Léoville Las Cases 2010 St-Julien 17 Drink 2022-2035
Lively, appetising nose. Very Cabernet! This actually tastes very like classic
Pauillac to me. Not that strong on body or concentration but well-balanced
classic claret. Not for those of a modernist bent who might find it a bit
skinny.

Ch Léoville Poyferré 2010 St-Julien 18 Drink 2020-2040
Looks very concentrated. Dark purple. Thick and rich. Some sweetness and lots of
tannin. Everything but the kitchen sink in here. Super-concentrated. Should make
great old bones. Very dry, long finish.

Ch Moulin Riche 2010 St-Julien 15.5 Drink 2016-2024
Racy fruit. Lots of lift and juice. Not that much tannin in evidence – quite
forward. A bit sour.

Ch St-Pierre 2010 St-Julien 18 Drink 2020-2040
Light minerally nose that's really quite intriguing. Big, ripe and bold but not
in any way sweet. Classic St-Julien in a ripe vintage. Should run and run.

Ch Talbot 2010 St-Julien 17 Drink 2020-2035
Blueish purple. Savoury nose with some notes of biscuits for cheese! Very
opulent, 'worked' texture. Charming even if not one of the most refreshing.
Seductive.


MARGAUX

Ch d'Angludet 2010 Margaux 13 Drink 2017-2021
Reduced. Very tart.

Ch Bellevue de Tayac 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2021
Thunevin. Light and sweet and round. Very well balanced even if in a minor key.
Easy drinking.

Ch Boyd-Cantenac 2010 Margaux 15 Drink 2018-2024
Sweet and sour. Harsh with drying tannins.

Ch Brane-Cantenac 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2018-2030
Neat and dry. Very contained but there is sufficient ripe fruit here. Though it
finishes pretty dry!

Ch Cantemerle 2010 Margaux 14.5 Drink 2018-2022
Lustrous dark crimson. Perfumed. Inky and very tough on the end.

Ch Cantenac Brown, Brio de Cantenac Brown 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Real life and vivacity on the nose. Luscious fruit but a bit dry on the end.

Ch Cantenac Brown 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2017-2027
Sweet yeast-extract nose. Thick texture and rather green on the finish.

Clos des Quatre Vents, Villa des Quatre Soeurs 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2023
Spicy and inky. Very fluid.

Ch Dauzac 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2017-2022
Some sweet toastiness on the nose. Some lusciousness initially but then a bit
austere and hollow.

Ch Deyrem Valentin 2010 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2018-2030
Round and complex. Lovely freshness. Complete. Subtle and very ripe. GV

Ch Durfort-Vivens 2010 Margaux 14 Drink 2018-2025
Quite tough. Very drying finish. Too tough!

Ch Ferrière 2010 Margaux 14 Drink 2017-2025
Dark crimson. Not that clean on the nose. Tart and demanding. Austere and
ungenerous.

Ch Giscours 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2020-2030
Lusciously ripe on the nose compared with its peers. Very fresh. Tough
unseasoned oak impression.

Ch d'Issan 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Sweet and round. Finishes a bit suddenly.

Ch Kirwan 2010 Margaux 14.5 Drink 2018-2026
Sour and hard. Very tough. Where’s the fruit?

Ch Labégorce 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Quite rich and velvety. Very modern but at least it had flesh!

Ch Lascombes 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Very dark crimson. Scented and Margaux-like. Fruit and currants on the mid
palate. Drying, sudden finish.

Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Aromatic with good, ripe fruit on the palate. Firm tannins. Better than most.

Ch Margaux, Pavillon Rouge 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Looks a bit smudgy. Easy and round with good fresh fruit. Correct and not too
drying on the finish.

Ch Margaux 2010 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2020-2034
Smells a little simple. Austere start. Just a bit lean. Not really trying as
hard as its peers. Quite light and relatively lean. Good but not great.

Ch Marquis d'Alesme Becker 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2016-2024
Dark purplish crimson. Neat and fresh on the nose. Dark fruit and quite dry on
the end.

Ch Marquis de Terme 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2026
Easy and round and unforced. Pretty.

Ch Monbrison 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2018-2028
Second bottle: lightly cheesy nose. Cool. Drying finish.

Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer 2010 Margaux 15.5 Drink 2018-2030
Very dark purplish crimson. Smells of upholstery webbing. Sweet and lots of
fruit. A bit tart on the end though.

Ch Palmer 2010 Margaux 17 Drink 2020-2032
Blackish crimson. Sweet and sweaty on the nose but clean and fresh on the
palate. Lots of dramatic impact. Relatively luscious. Black-cherry flavours.

Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2018-2028
Dark crimson. Perfumed. Round, fully ripe and confident. Lots of tannin on the
end but this should last well. Inky finish. Quite a bit of acidity.

Ch Rauzan-Gassies 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2025
Very dark crimson. Thick and sweet at the beginning but lacks a bit of
freshness. Marmite (yeast extract) flavours.

Ch Rauzan-Ségla 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2027
Light, sweet, candified nose. Easy and round. But not thrilling. Dull finish.

Ch Siran 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Very dark crimson. Meaty and lively. Good refreshment value. Well-balanced sweet
ink.

Ch du Tertre 2010 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2020-2030
Quite complex, dry and nuanced on the nose. Punchy and lively. Spreads across
the palate.

Ch La Tour de Mons 2010 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2027
Sweet, round and fresh but not that concentrated. Very drying finish.


PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

Ch Bouscaut 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2020-2030
Savoury nose with hints of cordite. Quite exciting and mineral!

Ch Branon 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2017-2027
Slightly tarty oak on the nose. Then pretty snazzy, dramatic fruit. Finish is
very drying.

Ch Carbonnieux 2010 Pessac-Léognan 15 Drink 2020-2030
Sweet, toasty oak. Some energy. But a tad tarty. Pinched finish.

Ch Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2020-2030
Sweet and flashy. Lots of juice and well-polished, refreshing fruit. Just
finishes a bit dry.

Dom de Chevalier 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5+ Drink 2018-2030
Lightly cheesy on the nose. Inky and savoury with good fruit intensity. Lively
and very dry on the end. This is a wine that usually takes many years to show
what it can do.

Ch de Fieuzal 2010 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2018-2032
Savoury and dense with good freshness on the nose. Very luscious and bright
fruited. Top stuff!

Ch Gazin Rocquencourt 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2017-2029
Very dark. Rich and round. Slightly green and chewy. Not that concentrated.

Ch Haut-Bailly 2010 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2018-2032
Blackish crimson. Smoky nose with a hint of char. Very 'modern' but delivers
lots of pleasure. Not classic. Very cool finish.

Ch Haut-Bergey 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2020-2035
Very black! Leathery. Dramatic. Chewy. Too dry on the end. Hot finish.

Ch Haut-Brion, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink
2020-2030
Hint of brett? Sweet start and mellow. Not the most concentrated and the oak
tannins seem a little green but there is respectable fruit there.

Ch Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan 19 Drink 2022-2045
Savoury, appetising nose. Great balance and refreshment factor. Everything very
neat and in place. Aristocratic somehow. Great intensity but not sweetness.

Ch Larrivet Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Toasted nuts on the nose. Sweet start. Very worked but to good effect.

Ch Latour-Martillac 2010 Pessac-Léognan 17- Drink 2020-2032
Sweaty nose. Good volume in the mouth. Tea leaves. Fresh fruit and impact. Just
a bit dry on the finish.

Ch La Louvière 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2018-2030
Rich and sweet on the nose. Just a little sweet and brutal. Falls away fast. But
very luscious beforehand.

Ch Malartic Lagravière 2010 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2020-2035
Dark crimson. Rich and round. Savoury. Luscious.

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion 2010
Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Dark glossy crimson. Sweet black-cherry ripe aroma. Tea leaves. Round. Just
slightly hollow.

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan 18.5 Drink 2022-2045
Very dark purple. Mild nose in terms of intensity and strongly Cabernet. Very
thick and dense. Impressive and very youthful. Not yet charming but amazing
persistence. Cabernet essence. A hint of alcohol on the finish.

Ch Olivier 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Very leathery nose. Rich and glossy. Dry finish.

Ch Pape Clément 2010 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2020-2030
Aromatic, possibly very slightly spindly. Thick and sweet. Just not enough lift.
A tad too soupy and overdone. Tarry finish.

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2010 Pessac-Léognan 18 Drink 2018-2038
Notably dark, dense crimson. Fragrant. Really very impressive. Lots of richness
but not sweetness. Layers of exciting flavour. Subtle. Great stuff.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

Thanks. I'm sure I could find a couple of decent wines among those no-names, if only I had the oppo.

Otherwise she cracks me up. I like to think I know what she likes in a wine but when I read her notes what she lauds in one she laments in another.

[DavidG]

2010 sounds like it might be a Jim How kind of vintage. No over-ripe fruit, bone dry and classic, the critics aren't uniformly fawning all over it. OTOH, HWSRN loved it, so maybe it's not an ideal Jim How kind of vintage.

[JimHow]

It does indeed sound like a JimHow kind of vintage, DavidG, occasionally HWSRN's tastes and mind intersect....

[Comte Flaneur]

It is.

Serious wine folk don't listen to Jancis anymore. Not even us limeys.

This is probably a better guide:

http://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php?blog=179

[Tom In DC]

Seriously, we're going to write off a big, structured vintage at the "two years in bottle" stage? Almost everyone thinks these wines are the real deal.

Like Hound, er, uh, Aloha Art, I think JR's notes are all over the yard.

[DavidG]

Yup. And Gilman, as is so often the case, is the exception that proves the rule.

[Jay Winton]

10 years from vintage before passing serious judgement is my motto for the classified growths. Try them earlier to satisfy one's curiosity, if need be. That said, the "lesser" Bordeaux wines can certainly provide guidance on the overall quality of the vintage.

[greatbxfreak]

Some strange comments on wines from Jancis. 2010 not being ripe at lesser estates? Bull....

Chateau Margaux lean, La Mission alcoholic, I guess English wine writers don't like wines with natural alcohol, but like Australian, Chilean and Argentinian wines with great deal of chaptalisation.

Where are Right Bank wines?

[Bacchus]

Ask and it shall be given:

Southwold 2010 - right-bank reds

6 Feb 2014 by Jancis Robinson

See yesterday's report on our blind tastings of left-bank reds. Whites dry and
sweet tomorrow.

When in Southwold (seen here between fishermen's huts down by the harbour) we
began our three-day schedule by concentrating on the right-bank wines,
beginning with a flight of less famous St-Émilions that in past vintages had
often been very hard work. Although some examples were very tough and tart,
other 2010s at this level were much more impressive than usual - and less
sweet'n'oaky than usual although some wines still showed signs of
over-extraction - to the point of bitterness in some cases. As we moved up the
ranks of St-Émilion, the number of seriously individual wines, as opposed to
what one might call 'consultant-formulaic' ones, rose - although there are
still some shockers at the top end, and too many wines seemed to be all about
winemaking technique rather than vineyard. The overarching sentiment in too
many cases seemed to be, 'We have this nice fruit, let's try and make it more
concentrated!' A glorious exception to this was Cheval Blanc, which showed
beautifully.

The flight of supposedly 'lesser' Pomerols was delicious - in fact the top nine
wines in it would all have 'beaten' the top St-Émilions. They were overall
earthier and less 'made-up' than the St-Émilions. But, oddly, some of the
better-known Pomerols seemed hardly better than their less glamorous, and less
expensive, peers. Both Petrus and Lafleur were particularly gorgeous - no great
surprises there. (I would urge anyone who is surprised by any of these scores to
remember that all wines were tasted completely blind in suitable peer groups.)

As usual, the best right-bank value is to be found in appellations such as
Castillon (see last week's wine of the week for example). In the notes below,
GV = good value. Some of the better buys on the right bank include Ch L'Enclos
of Pomerol (for which winesearcher.com calculates an average price of £31 a
bottle) and, coincidentally, Ch Quinault L'Enclos of St-Émilion (£24).

Tasting notes are listed alphabetically by producer within appellation or group
of appellations, the appellations being ordered thus:

Pomerol
St-Émilion
Côtes de Bordeaux

POMEROL

Ch Beauregard 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2018-2026
Dark purple. Rich fruited nose. Sweet start, and a little dry on the end. Very
thick. Lacks freshness. But solid.

Ch Le Bon Pasteur 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2016-2024
Some richness on the nose. Thick and relatively luscious. Tough ungainly finish.
Sudden end.

Ch Certan de May 2010 Pomerol 15 Drink 2018-2024
Dark. Intense and inky on the nose. Very chewy finish. Really rather brutal and
exaggerated. Something a bit farmyardy on the nose. Very drying finish.

Ch Clinet 2010 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2016-2028
Warm, savoury, fresh and welcoming nose (the first Pomerol tasted after four
flights of 2010 St-Émilions!). Rich, mildly raisined but long and rewarding.

Le Clos du Beau Père 2010 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2016-2021
Thunevin. Blackish purple. Savoury and rather luscious nose. Sweet, juicy start
with some really proper biscuity earthiness underneath. Forward but good!

Ch Clos L'Église 2010 Pomerol 17 Drink 2018-2030
Spicy, a little lean for a Pomerol. But of course refreshing with quite dry
tannins on the end. Needs time.

Clos Vieux Taillefer 2010 Pomerol 16 Drink 2016-2026
Fireworks and bonfires on the nose. Some rich fruit on the palate. One of the
more successful 2010 Pomerols. Tart finish.

Ch La Conseillante 2010 Pomerol 17 Drink 2020-2034
Very dark blackish crimson. High-toned nose – rather reminiscent of lilies – and
extremely savoury. Drying rather than sweet. Uncompromising and long term.
Rather sour on the end.

Ch La Croix de Bourseau 2010 Lalande-de-Pomerol 16 Drink 2018-2026
Dark blackish crimson. Scented and headily perfumed. A bit thick and chewy and
stolid on the palate. Ticks the boxes without being in any way ethereal!

Ch La Croix de Gay 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2017-2023
Sweet and chocolatey on the nose. A tad simple but it certainly delivers
pleasure. Falls away a bit suddenly on the palate.

Ch L'Église-Clinet 2010 Pomerol 18 Drink 2020-2035
Dark purplish crimson. Introvert and unevolved on the nose. Very firm and
ambitious. Not nearly as sweet as most Pomerols but with excellent structure.
Chewy and for the long term. Fragrant and Cab Francy.

Ch L'Enclos 2010 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2017-2026
Very dark crimson. Fragrant. Drier and more inky than most Pomerols but no worse
for it. Slightly dusty and lots of fun.

Ch L'Évangile 2010 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2020-2030
Blackish crimson. Scented. But a bit leathery and rustic on the palate with lots
of acidity. A tad old-fashioned. But very honest! Solid verging on stolid. But
lovely richness and density.

Ch Fayat 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Dark crimson. Nose on the cusp of savoury and sweaty. A little dry on the
palate. More cassis than is usual on the right bank.

Ch La Fleur de Gay 2010 Pomerol 16 Drink 2016-2024
Sweet and perfumed – a bit tarty. Thick and sweet. Flattering but not noble.

Ch La Fleur-Pétrus 2010 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2017-2030
Spicy and very rich. Smooth and easy. Cinnamon and ripe fruit. One of the more
precocious wines although there is lots of tannin underneath too.

Ch Le Gay 2010 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2017-2029
Blackish crimson. Briary nose. Lots of sweet, flattering fruit. Big and bloody.
Makes a real impact. Bit of a bruiser. Masses of chew.

Ch Gazin 2010 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Fruit not super clean. A bit simple. Chewy and thick. But lots of rewarding
fruit. Falls away a little. Sour end.

Ch Hosanna 2010 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2016-2025
Quite evolved, exotic, very ripe fruit on the nose. Just not lively enough. A
bit heavy and lightly stewed. Very evolved.

Ch Lafleur, Pensées de Lafleur 2010 Pomerol 18 Drink 2017-2030
Very sweet and fluid with the tannins making their presence felt only towards
the end. Lots of richness. Very opulent and gorgeous. Serious stuff. But not at
all modern in idiom.

Ch Lafleur 2010 Pomerol 19 Drink 2020-2045
Liquorice and life. Real lift to this nose but a bit farmyardy too. Neat and
dense and very correct and pungent. Lovely stuff. Wonderful balance. Long.
Difficult to spit!

Ch Montviel 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2018-2026
Rich and sweet start. Luscious fruit and some dryness on the end. Slightly tough
on the end.

Ch Nénin, Fugue de Nénin 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2016-2022
Dark purple. Very sweet and intensely floral on the nose. Just dries out a
little on the finish.

Ch Nénin 2010 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Good integrity and resonance on the nose and the structure is not too overdone.
Savoury and appetising. Quite long.

Ch Petit Village 2010 Pomerol 16 Drink 2017-2026
Excellent deep crimson. Some liveliness on the nose. Lots of drive and some
yeast-extract flavour. Just a tad sour.

Petrus 2010 Pomerol 19 Drink 2020-2040
Heady, slightly cheesy nose. Very intense purple fruits. Lots of sweetness. Out
of context this would be glorious but it's not quite as compelling as the first
wine in this flight (Cheval Blanc). A strong savoury finish. Very complex and
gorgeous.

Le Pin 2010 Pomerol 18 Drink 2020-2040
Slightly green note but otherwise excellent and beautiful. I'm sure I'd love it
if presented with it alone! Glossy and juicy.

Ch Providence 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2016-2024
Very straightforward, without nuance. Lots of chew and acidity.

Ch Rouget 2010 Pomerol 15.5 Drink 2018-2024
Lively and racy. A little spindly for a Pomerol and chewy on the end.

Ch Trotanoy 2010 Pomerol 17 Drink 2018-2028
Sweet, dark chocolate, very modern on the nose. Lively – not heavy. Rich, sweet
and clean. Long. Not the most appetising though.

Vieux Château Certan 2010 Pomerol 18.5 Drink 2017-2030
Minerals, energy, racy, really exciting. Long and beautifully balanced. Polished
without being specious. Great energy and balance. Pacy!


ST-ÉMILION

Ch Angélus 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2028
Blackish crimson. Only medium intensity and some mintiness on the nose. Just a
bit overripe on the palate. More like blood than wine in terms of texture. Hard
work! Very dense. Finish verges on bitter.

Ch L'Arrosée 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2017-2025
Dark crimson with a pale rim. Sweet, curranty and very St-Émilion. A hint of
dried fruits but lots of fluidity on the palate too. Not one of the densest
textured but very refreshing – and only slightly dry on the end.

Ch Ausone, Chapelle d'Ausone 2010 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2018-2026
Smells rather of ash. A bit brutal and chunky. Where's the sweet fruit? Some
refreshing mintiness. Tannins just a tad rustic. Makes an impression but it's
no charmer.

Ch Ausone 2010 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2025-2040
Quite angular on the nose. Very chewy and a bit austere. Thick and dense but
with a little greenness too. Will need many years in bottle to soften, I'd
guess.

Ch Barde-Haut 2010 St-Émilion 16- Drink 2017-2024
Opulent nose that is almost left banky in its savour and complexity. Open,
rather simple, minty fruit on the palate. Not as ambitious as some. Just a
little lean in terms of fruit weight.

Ch Beau-Séjour Bécot 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2020-2028
Dark purplish crimson. Much less intense nose than its peers. Very austere and
tart. Another exaggerated wine! Where's the charm? Very drying finish.

Ch Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse) 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2024
Mid dark crimson. Sweet, relatively simple nose. Not the most vibrant wine. The
fruit, which was probably rather marvellous when picked, is occluded. Tough.
Shame!

Ch Bélair Monange 2010 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2016-2030
Sweet, creamy St-Émilion nose. Round and luscious with the tannins almost
entirely submerged in the ripe, currant-bun fruit. Pure pleasure! Very well put
together. Long.

Ch Bellevue 2010 St-Émilion 14.5 Drink 2017-2021
Purple with a pale rim. Savoury, vital nose. Lots of dramatic, if slightly raw,
purple fruit and drying tannins on the finish.

Ch Berliquet 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2018-2024
Glossy dark purplish crimson. Smells rather left bank and contained. Sweet start
and rather refined, well-worked tannins. Liquorice and black fruits. Drying
tannins and some bitterness on the finish at the moment but it may be worth
waiting for.

Ch Canon 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2024
Mid crimson. Relatively simple nose. Warm currants and then lots of acidity.
Very angular at the moment. As though not that much care has been taken…
Awkward acidity.

Ch Canon La Gaffelière 2010 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2017-2027
Dark crimson and an evolved rim. Good life and freshness. Real energy even if
not the densest or ripest. Super refreshing. Quite sinewy – certainly not fat -
with tannins very well covered and good persistence.

Ch Cheval Blanc, Le Petit Cheval 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2024
Purplish crimson. A tad overripe on the nose. Over extracted and quite bitter on
the end. Lots of good fruit came into the cellar initially, I'm sure, but it's
all a bit overdone. Harsh, hot finish.

Ch Cheval Blanc 2010 St-Émilion 20 Drink 2017-2038
Rich and round but scented too. Very sweet and lively and flattering. Dense with
massive appeal. Glorious stuff! Very long and impossible to spit out. Layers of
toast and rich black fruits. Not at all stereotype modern. So long!

Clos de l'Oratoire 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2028
Blackish purple. Hint of gun metal and lots of polished juice. Masses of tannins
which dominate the palate. Needs time. A bit inky currently.

Clos des Jacobins 2010 St-Émilion 16+ Drink 2017-2023
Dark purplish crimson. Marmite (yeast extract) nose and then some ripe fruit in
competition with firm tannins. Reasonable structure and noticeable ambition.
Just a bit drying on the end. By no means luscious!

Clos Fourtet 2010 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2018-2032
Glowing dark crimson. Light, fine, refreshing liquorice notes. Real energy here.
Very 2010 in its combination of ripe fruit and ripe tannin. By no means
exaggerated. Very persistent. A hint of tar. Dry finish.

Clos St-Martin 2010 St-Émilion 14.5 Drink 2017-2024
Sweet yeast extract on the nose. Some lift and freshness. Inky and juicy. But
this needs time. A bit tarry.

Ch Côte de Baleau 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2028
Dark crimson. Complex nose with a hint of foxgloves. Admirable refreshment on
the palate but no shortage of ambition. Savoury and set for the long term.
Quite left banky.

Ch La Couspaude 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Dark, glowing blackish crimson. Sweet and juicy. Dry finish. Very unformed and
crudely bittersweet. Not much on the finish.

Couvent des Jacobins 2010 St-Émilion 14.5 Drink 2016-2022
Very dark crimson. Sweet and relatively simple on the nose. Thick texture and
rather bitter yeast-extract palate without great refreshment value.

Ch Croix de Labrie 2010 St-Émilion 15 Drink 2016-2021
Bright blackish crimson. Rather sour and savoury. Not enough sweet fruit!
Yeast-extract flavours.

Le Dôme 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Extremely sweet. Not very refreshing! Baked fruit and chewy chocolatey tannins.
Lots of alcohol. A love-or-loathe wine. Very modern indeed – too exaggerated
for me. Very hot finish. Sour end.

Ch La Dominique 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2018-2026
Just slightly dead on the nose but with lots of ripe fruit. Tannins there but
only medium charge. A bit hot on the end but lots of satisfaction. Still
embryonic.

Ch Faugères 2010 St-Émilion 14 Drink 2017-2024
Dark crimson. Paleish rim. Light nose and rather simple. A bit weedy on the
finish. Not really trying. Though there is no shortage of drying tannin.

Ch Figeac 2010 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2017-2028
Dark purplish crimson. Straightforward juicy fruit. A bit simple. Chewy. But
good balance. Savoury.

Ch Fombrauge 2010 St-Émilion 14.5 Drink 2017-2024
Very dark crimson. Intensely ripe and not too sweet. Distinctly savoury on the
palate – more tar and tannin than sweetness. A tad bitter on the end. Over
extraction?

Ch Fonplégade 2010 St-Émilion 14 Drink 2017-2022
Blackish crimson. Thick overripe fruit and then tough, tart chewiness on the
finish. Very drying and sour.

Ch Fonroque 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2017-2025
Bright dark crimson. Purple rim. Perfumed. Very smooth texture and ambitious but
a slight lack of fruit and interest in the middle. Bit of a civil servant of a
wine. Diplomatic rather than full of character.

Ch Franc Mayne 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2017-2024
Rather sweet and sumptuous on the nose – as though some particularly snazzy oak
were implicated. Good freshness and texture. Real energy and polish. Though it
does finish pretty dry and suddenly.

Ch La Gaffelière 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2026
Blackish crimson. Very ripe and jazzy. Attention-grabbing and smooth and well
balanced. Sweet and fresh at first and then very savoury on the end. A strange
wine… Somehow more of a shell/frame than what's in the middle. Rather dry
tannins.

Ch La Gomerie 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2016-2026
Mid to dark crimson. Ripeness plus the merest hint of rawness on the nose – odd!
Some chocolate-covered-raisin quality here. Lots of flesh in the modern style.
Slightly bitter finish. But fluid and juicy and appealing.

Ch Gracia 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2027
Blackish crimson. Overripe notes on the nose. Very glossy and seductive on the
palate with some saltiness. It almost tastes Argentinean! A bit tough and
bitter on the finish. This is almost very good and certainly has a lovely long
finish. Very modern, slightly exaggerated style with drying tannins on the
finish.

Ch Grand Mayne 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2018-2023
Blackish crimson. Rich, ripe nose. Dry finish but there is an attempt at velvety
ripeness here. But lots of tough tannin too.

Ch Les Grandes Murailles 2010 St-Émilion 15 Drink 2017-2023
Notably sweet fruit on the nose. Sweet oak and just a little bit too tarty to be
refreshing. Slightly stewed and treacly, though no shortage of tannin underneath
– even a little bitter.

Ch Laforge 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2023
Dark crimson but not as dark as some of it peers. Fragrant and gentle even if a
little bit simple but not as disastrously over extracted as some.

Ch Larcis-Ducasse 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2030
Second bottle. Dark blackberry aromas. A bit tart and tough on the end. Quite
demanding in terms of dryness and texture. No fun at all at present! But there
is some flesh and persistence.

Ch Larmande 2010 St-Émilion 14 Drink 2017-2021
Purple. Sweet nose. Distinctly sour and demanding. Very drying finish. Just not
enough juice! Very tart finish.

Ch Laroze 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2016-2024
Dark crimson with a pale rim. Lightly, florally fragrant. Easy without being
dramatic on the nose. Good blend of ripe fruit and medium charge of tannins on
the palate. Not exaggerated but not that ambitious either.

Ch de Lussac 2010 Lussac-St-Émilion 14 Drink 2017-2022
Smells less ripe than most of its peers and is pretty bitter on the finish. As
though it had been pretty aggressively extracted. Drying tannins on the finish.


Ch Magrez Fombrauge 2010 St-Émilion 15 Drink 2018-2024
Very dark blackish crimson. Extremely opulent on the nose and then exaggerated
on the palate. A bit drying on the end. Severe and over-extracted. It will
always seem impressive but I suspect may never be delightful. Drying finish.

Ch Monbousquet 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2024
Notably dark purplish crimson. Extremely dense, almost impenetrable. Flattering
at first then drying on the end. Not enough real fresh fruit in the middle alas
but no shortage of drama. Severe.

La Mondotte 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2028
Blackish crimson. Very sweet and black cherry rich on the nose but not sweet on
the palate. A hint of oak (unusually) but determined non sweetness. Quite tart
and hard work. It's all potential rather than current pleasure.

Ch Moulin St-Georges 2010 St-Émilion 13 Drink 2015-2020
Blackish crimson. Very volatile nose. Fruit unstable on the mid palate. Grungy
tannins and drying finish. Not fresh!

Ch Pavie 2010 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2020-2035
Blackish crimson. Juicy and clean and fresh. A little lacking in sheer density
but there is great purity. And apparent longevity. Lots of mineral character.
Great balance and potential. Dry appetising finish. Masses of ripe tannin.
Long. Proper!

Ch Pavie Macquin 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2018-2028
Very dark crimson. Concentrated, ripe and glamorous on the nose. Then rather
severe and tart on the palate. This may be simply too young but it really does
have very marked acidity, almost as though the wine had been concentrated(!) –
which I'm sure no one would need to do in 2010. Ungenerous and exaggerated on
the finish. Lots of density but not wonderful balance. I really didn’t like
this particularly at first but then it revealed itself to be better than many
in this flight.

Ch Quinault L'Enclos 2010 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Rather sludgy crimson. Fragrant. Lots of vitality and freshness. Sweetness too.
Distinctive and appetising. Not thick but very well balanced. Long.

Ch Rol Valentin 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2017-2024
Blackish crimson. Very sweet and rather caricature St-Émilion of the 1990s on
the nose! Not that concentrated on the palate. This wine seems less informed by
the vintage than most of its peers – although there is a marked charge of
tannins on the very end. Dry finish.

Ch Soutard 2010 St-Émilion 14.5 Drink 2016-2020
Sweet purple fruit. Fresh and quite sharp. Tough and dry. Very sour finish.

Ch Tertre Roteboeuf 2010 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Marmite (yeast extract) savoury and slightly dry and drying fruit. But there is
real 2010 character here, albeit in bitter-chocolate mode. Furry texture. Tart
streak. Some freshness.

Ch La Tour Figeac 2010 St-Émilion 14 Drink 2018-2022
Smoked, charred fruit here on the nose. Too much oak! And not enough fruit and
refreshment.

Ch Troplong Mondot 2010 St-Émilion 17+ Drink 2018-2032
Rich, sweet, energetic purple fruit. Lots going on here. Masses of ripe fruit
and ripe tannin. Still young but it should evolve into something quite
exciting. Rich and vibrant. Long. But just a bit sweet and oaky and simple.

Ch Trottevieille 2010 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2017-2027
Dark crimson. Just the right side of overripe – ripe black-fruit notes! Then
well-balanced suave fruit. Just a little overworked but it ticks the boxes.
We're tasting cellar not vineyard here somehow.

Ch Valandraud, Virginie de Valandraud 2010 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2017-2029
Dark blackish crimson. Very warm and welcoming nose that is clean and piercing.
Then some freshness and real life. The fruit almost hides the tannins. Dry
finish.

Ch Valandraud 2010 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2017-2030
Bright dark crimson. Floral and fragrant. Very polished but good refreshment.
Really racy – a sort of Riesling of a St-Émilion! Great balance in a style the
opposite of rustic. Long and sophisticated. Though marked acidity.

Vieux Château Mazerat 2010 St-Émilion 15 Drink 2017-2022
Sweet and luscious start. Very dramatic and flattering. Quite long. Better than
many of its peers. But just a tad hollow.

Ch Villemaurine 2010 St-Émilion 15.5 Drink 2015-2024
Intense, already well-knit nose. Quite precocious aromatically and then with
lots of solid chewy tannin on the palate. Finishes just a little suddenly.


CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

Ch d'Aiguilhe 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 16 Drink 2018-2026
Bright crimson. Savoury and intense on the nose. Lots of juice and richness.
Punchy and salty but needs time. GV

Ch Cap de Faugères 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 15 Drink 2018-2024
Dark crimson. Meaty and spicy on the nose. Rather hard work on the end with lots
of acidity and tannin. Needs food desperately!

Ch Grand Village 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur 16 Drink 2016-2024
Home farm of the owners of Ch Lafleur. Mid sweetness. But it doesn't taste as
though it is trying too hard. A bit lighter and less tense than most.

Ch Joanin Bécot 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 16 Drink 2017-2025
First bottle extremely TCA affected. Second bottle: Mid crimson. Real life to
this. Not that concentrated and an early bird but good balance despite lack of
intensity. Welcome freshness.

Ch Puygueraud 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 15 Drink 2016-2024
Sweet, gentle unusually soft nose (for a 2010 Pomerol). Lots of rich fruit with
a savoury tobacco-leaf finish. Interesting!

Ch Roc de Cambes 2010 Côtes de Bourg 15.5 Drink 2017-2025
Mid crimson with a paleish rim. Quite evolved nose. Sweet and creamy. Very
flattering with a hint of coconut cream. Not the most appetising but it
certainly delivers sweet fruit. Reasonably ripe tannins. A tad stringy on the
end.

[greatbxfreak]

Again wishy-washy TNs from Jancis on Right Bank wines. I must laugh at T.Roteboeuf description and some others. She's taking a wrong aim at 2010 vintage imho.

She's not the one I trust concerning TNs, I 'm more to R.Parker and Jeff Leve side. When I renew my monthly subscription to squires.com, I'll check what Neal Martin's impressions are from this 2010 tasting.

[DavidG]

Nothing from Neal Martin on this tasting that I could find on eRP, at least not yet.

The 2010s appear to be too expensive and look like they will require too much cellaring for this old coot with a cellar already full of aged and aging Bordeaux. I will get my 2010 thrills vicariously from all of you.

[stefan]

David, I bought 8 cases of 2010, mostly for my children to drink after Lucie and I have adjourned to That Great Tasting Room in Sky. But in the unlikely event that we are still around when they become drinkable, to heck with stefanJr, T, Irena, & Judd!

[JimHow]

You'll only be 80 when these wines are ready to drink, Sefan, you'll still be a youngster, as when you are 80 the average lifespan will be upwards of 100. For the same reasons David G should be buying new vintages for at least another 10-15 years.

[greatbxfreak]

I don't have any concern about 2010 vintage and I don't quite understand Jancis' TNs. Dry, not that much sweetness, high acidity - plain bull...

2010 vintage's imho the best one since 2005. Perfect summer, perfect grapes and almost nothing to deselect. In this vintage, ripeness of grapes inside and outside happened at the same time, contrary to 2009 when there was 14 days break between full maturity inside and full maturity of skins. Tannins are great and ripeness of these are better in 2010 than in 2009.

These are my TNs from memorable tasting in May 2013:

Last Thursday, I was one of 16 tasters to participate in tasting of 15 2010s and drinking 1 2010 white and 3 1990s for following dinner at restaurant “Le Sommelier” in center of Copenhagen.

I’ve to say that it was exceptional showing of 2010s boarding for some wines to perfect/fantastic. Almost all of these wines have even improved since I tasted them from barrel. I’ve additionally tasted around 20 2010s at several properties (link - http://www.greatbordeauxwines.com/Bordeaux%202012.html) and I’ll make a statement that this is fantastic vintage, which imho surpass 2009 in terms of ripeness of fruit and tannin, complexity and richness.

Especially, tannin of 2010 is fatter and riper than in 2009. In many wines you can’t even taste tannin as it’s packed in velvet. There’s evident alcohol in few wines, both in the nose and palate, but the majority of 2010s aren’t showing it. The balance of 2010 is simply extraordinary and will allow keeping the best wines for at least half a century. I’m not convinced that 2009 vintage can keep as long.

1st flight- Saint-Emilion and Pomerol:

1. Trottevieille– dark colour, great aroma of black cherries/raspberries/blueberries and chocolate, deep and intense on the nose, big concentration of sweet fruit and fat tannin, perfect ripeness and long aftertaste, classy and complex wine with great balance. Excellent example of keeping traditional winemaking intact and not overdoing it with some modern gimmicks. Great success for the property! 95p.

2. Troplong Mondot – very intense nose of black cherries/kirsch, you can feel alcohol on the nose and palate, hefty dose of new oak balanced by perfectly ripe fruit, obvious modern style with maximum of everything. A bit overdone. Long time runner – I believe it’ll start to soften in ten years’ time. 96p.

3. L’Evangile – excellent intensity of black cherries, grated chocolate, cocoa powder, truffles (iron oxide), very dense and precise, tight and fat on the palate, perfect ripeness of fruit and tannin, long, long finish that lasts for 1 minute. Exceptional stuff. 98p.

4. VCC - simply fantastic with sublime nose of chocolate mixed with beautiful black cherries, violets, silky palate filled with black cherries, astonishing richness, balance and structure. I believe this wine easily edges 2009 vintage. 99-100p.

2nd flight – Margaux and Péssac Leognan:

1. Giscours – fabulously aromatic nose full of black berries intermixed with chocolate and cocoa powder, seductive, stylish, complex, fabulous sweetness, fatness, stunning length, balance and structure. Awesome wine with great class, finesse and sophisticated touch, so typical for Margaux commune. 95-96p.

2. Palmer – incredibly scented nose and palate, black cherries and Varlhona chocolate everywhere, awesome complexity, structure and length, fat fruit and tannin on the palate. Very sophisticated wine with both power and extreme elegance. Heavenly stuff. 99p.

3. Haut Bailly – probably the weakest 2010 tasted during our evening. Deep and intense black fruit on the nose and palate, fine balance and length. Lacks fatness, tightness, depth and concentration found in many other wines in this vintage. I wonder if yield here was too high? 92-93p.

4. La Mission Haut Brion – velvet and silk everywhere, extremely intense on the nose and powerful on the palate, incredibly sophisticated, fantastic complexity, structure and length. Aftertaste lasts for 2 minutes. Sheer class and style. This wine has evolved in perfect way since I tasted it from barrel in March 2011. Paradise in heaven! 100p.

3rd flight – Saint Julien and Saint-Estephe:

1. Gruaud Larose – yet again and again I’ve to use word black cherries/blueberries/blackberriesto describe nose of this wine. It is trademark of this vintage. Great sweetness of fruit, very concentrated on palate, great complexity, depth and length. Splendid wine for the vintage. 94p.

2. Leoville Poyferre – more of everything than in Gruaud Larose, modern style here, packed with perfectly ripe fruit, fabulous intensity and concentration. Fabulous structure and complexity. Perfect balance. Stunningly impressive wine. 97p.

3. Cos d’Estournel – black fruit en masse but also alcohol (cherry vodka) very, very evident on the nose and palate, extremely powerful on the palate with really fat fruit and tannin. Fruit is on border of overextraction and this wine is extremely massive and imho not at all typical Bordeaux. Closer to Napa Valley style. Either you like it or you hate it. I’m neutral and you can’t abstract from the fact that this is high quality wine. 96p.

4. Montrose – simply monster wine with its thick aroma of black fruit, enormous concentration, very strong backbone, perfectly ripe fat fruit and fat tannin, stunning complexity and structure, impeccable balance. Incredibly stylish 2010 and showing 100% what this vintage has to offer. Mind-boggling effort. 98-99p. Tasted also in April 2013 at the property – same impression.

4th flight – Pauillac

1. Batailley – intense nose of black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid balance, sweet fruit and tannin, powerful on palate, fine complexity and structure, long fruity aftertaste. Splendid effort. 94p.

2. Pichon Baron – thick layer of fruit and tannin, perfectly ripe, sophisticated and stylish, fabulous richness of nuances, depth and length. Very strong backbone and impressive structure. Stunningly long finish. This is awesome stuff. 98p.

3. Latour – incredibly sophisticated and refined wine, but not as concentrated as I’ve expected. However, there are plenty of things to be hugely exited over, for this wine offers myriad of nuances, velvety structure, immense depth and length. Sublime wine, which has several decades to reach apogee. 98-99p.

For dinner:

1. 2010 Pavillon Blanc de Chateau Margaux – acacia flower on the nose and palate, fresh, fine acidity, elegant and refined. 93p.

2. 1990 Latour – perfectly ripe fruit, truffles, incredibly concentrated, very strong structure, sophisticated, extremely long on the palate. Riveting elegance and finesse. 96p.

3. 1990 Montrose – animal, concentrated truffles, incredibly thick intensity, then explosion of everything on the palate which is just sensational. This is legend of perfection and a phenomenal wine. The nose changed constantly from animal flavor to truffle flavor and then back again. 100p.

4. 1990 VVC – a bit jammy, very evident alcohol on the nose, medium body, fine complexity and structure. Wiped out by Montrose and Latour 1990. 92p.

5. 2006 Climens – from half bottle. Strong botrytised aromas of candied orange peel and crème brulée. Impressive length on the palate and very honeyed aftertaste. 94p.

[Bacchus]

I too am at a loss regarding JR's tasting notes. A couple of weeks ago I had the good fortune to attend a tasting event at which some 50 chateaux were pouring samples of both their '09 and '10 vintages (no firsts unfortunately). To a chateau the 09s were plump, round, juicy; full of plum, cassis, compote, bings, truffle, chocolate. They were lush to be sure, but still light in the mouth compared to something like big barossa shiraz. I might have liked a little more acid in some cases, but there was nothing flat like the 03 SHL. The 10s, again to a wine, were more sculpted than their 09 sibs; tight and muscular; very evident yet fine tannins, cassis and smoke abounded on the left bank, with a nice spiciness that gave the 10s just a little something the 09s didn't have, which are fruitier. They were all more stringent than the 09s to be sure, but none were weak or watery or thin. If there was a fault, perhaps a bit too much alcohol on some.
I had the pleasant fortune, by the way, to meet and speak with the likes of Lilian Barton and the Comte von Neipperg. His 2010, by the way, will wrestle you to the ground before you can get the cork out -- it's one masculine wine. If you buy you'd better hope you can take it with you to the big tasting room in the sky because it won't be ready until the eschaton arrives! Still, I enjoyed it as a 3 year old.
Value recommendation: 2010 Ch. de Fieuzal -- rich and smoky like a good grave should be, mixed berries undertoned with cinnamon and oregano.

Is 2010 a Jim How kind of vintage? Yes and no. It's not fat and lush like the 09s, but it can be a little hot.

[Comte Flaneur]

That's a pretty good synopsis Bacchus.

I think JR has lost the plot. Her note on Ch. Margaux was plain crass.

[JCNorthway]

I will soon have my own data point on this, albeit limited. I will be tasting a small selection of 2010's in my wine group with the focus being what you get today in Bordeaux for $50. Should be interesting.

[marcs]

I never know what to make of Jancis. Her tasting notes have this real shoot from the hip quality, like, eh, ummm, whatever, the ending on this seemed harsh, let's try the next one, OK, this is nice and sweet but not too sweet, on to the next one....she just bounces all over the place and doesn't seem too consistent in what she's looking for. Like, what does this mean --

Ch Latour 2010 Pauillac 19 Drink 2024-2050
Very dark indeed. Concentrated black-fruit essence plus terroir. Round and
supple. Lots of angularity. Latour? Great refreshment factor and lots of
minerality. Very clean finish. Thick and admirable.

So it's round and supple but angular, thick and concentrated but refreshing? Since she gave it a really high score I guess that just means that wine had it all, but her critical notes are often even more confusing.

I don't see how that kind of random impressionistic what-do-I-taste-now style works with running through fifty quick sips from really young wines. On the other hand, it seems more honest than the usual fruit basket and inner palate perfume of hot stones nonsense.

When Parker marks something up I know I'm getting more size, when he marks it down I'm getting less size, that doesn't always align all that well with quality but at least I know what I'm getting. With Jancis I'm just getting something Jancis liked or didn't like that day and I don't have a good feel for what that means. She's tasted a lot of wine in her life though, so I'll admit that I'm still kind of bummed that she panned the 2010 Ducru Beaucaillou and Conseillante, which I bought a half case each of.

[pomilion]

I never know what to make of Jancis. Her tasting notes have this real shoot from the hip quality, like, eh, ummm, whatever, the ending on this seemed harsh, let's try the next one, OK, this is nice and sweet but not too sweet, on to the next one....she just bounces all over the place and doesn't seem too consistent in what she's looking for. ...

I don't see how that kind of random impressionistic what-do-I-taste-now style works with running through fifty quick sips from really young wines....When Parker marks something up I know I'm getting more size, when he marks it down I'm getting less size, that doesn't always align all that well with quality but at least I know what I'm getting. With Jancis I'm just getting something Jancis liked or didn't like that day and I don't have a good feel for what that means....

Agree with your thoughts -- Jancis' notes reprinted above seem somewhat random, very impressionistic and all over the place, whereas with someone like Parker one may not agree with him but he's usually much more methodical and consistent. Having tasted most of these 2010s at the UGC and having tried quite a few since, for me her take on the vintage is totally off. It's clearly an exceptional vintage -- one can debate '05 vs '09 vs '10, but '10 is unquestionably one of the 3-4 overall best vintages since 1990. Some of the 2010s may be shutting down, but she should be used to that... I had a bottle of 2010 St. Pierre recently -- it was very open and drinking beautifully at the UGC a year ago but a few weeks ago was very closed (actually reminded me of a more modern-styled version of 2000 LLC I had a few years ago that was shut down pretty hard).

[greatbxfreak]

How refreshing this take on vintage 2010 is from Farr Vintners owner, Steven Browett!! So different from Jancis R view!

I must applaud him for naming LMHB and TR as some of his all time favorites.

Link: http://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php

[Comte Flaneur]

Itzak - I already posted that link in this thread

[Tom In DC]

We always seem to applaud those who agree with us....

[greatbxfreak]

Comte Flaneur,

You're right, I missed your earlier post.

Nevertheless, Stephen Browett is spot on!