Neil on the left side, south 2010

[Bacchus]

Margaux

Whilst Saint Estèphe provided a bevy of beauties in 2010, I am not so convinced
by the appellation of Margaux. During these blind tastings the wines were more
inconsistent and seemed overwhelmed by the growing season. I often think that
vintages that are defined by their concentration, thick skins and tannic
structure do not favour the more refined, elegant wines of Margaux. So perhaps
it is not surprise that one of the most impressive wines is the "Pauillac of
Margaux" - Château Brane-Cantenac, thanks to its deep gravel soils. Make no
mistake, you will have to wait a couple of decades for this wine to reach its
drinking window, but I picked out its intensity, linearity and laser-like
focus. This is an aristocrat of a wine, perhaps aloof at the moment, but that
is its style and with age you gradually warm to its charms. Bon vin!

Of course, the Château Margaux 2010 is a superlative wine, although as we shall
see, it was not my pick of the First Growths. I was not the only one with that
opinion because although it achieved an impressive average score, it was not
quite as high as others and this is one where I deem the 2009 to be the better
wine. Of course, that can always change with time. Château Palmer is typically
the most ostentatious of the wines, always quite easy to pick out in blind
conditions: an assured and sumptuous offering from Thomas Duroux that should
age in extravagant fashion. Perhaps the one disappointment emanates from
Château Rauzan-Segla, which I hoped would perform better. The class that is has
showed previously was not conspicuous here, and once again, its average score
was disappointing vis-à-vis its peers. Perhaps it is closing down, perhaps it
has lost its way a little in recent months.

Elsewhere, the Château Giscours 2010 is a great wine, from a cru that I have
found a little inconsistent in recent vintages, so that was pleasing to see,
whilst Château La Tour de Mons again proves that you can don't need to shell
out for a famous name to find quality inside the glass.

2010 Château d'Angludet 87
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. This is a disappointing
showing from d'Angludet. It shows just a little over-ripeness on the nose with
fresh prune and raisin informing the otherwise decent bouquet. This seems quite
high-toned compared to its peers. The palate shows a lot of extraction with
rounded tannins, sharp acidity and a rather earnest finish that wants to be
loved, but tries a little too hard. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Bellevue Tayac 87
There is a slight flatness on the nose on Jean-Luc Thunevin's Margaux property,
not unattractive, but it is missing some personality. The palate is
medium-bodied with chewy tannins, but it is lacking acidity and delineation on
the finish. Not bad, but it is missing some personality. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Boyd-Cantenac 89
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Boyd-Cantenac 2010 has
a very fine bouquet with blackberry and crushed violet. It shows impressive
clarity. The palate is medium-bodied with a pointed entry, crisp acidity with a
structured, masculine finish. The aftertaste is spicy and elegant to finish what
is a commendable Boyd-Cantenac. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Brane-Cantenac 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Brane-Cantenac 2010 has
a vibrant, lively bouquet with tarry black fruit, truffle and dried rose petals
that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grainy
tannins. The acidity here is well judged and lends this focus and class,
notwithstanding the impressive delineation on the finish. Masculine and
aristocratic, this quintessential Brane-Cantenac will surely age with style.
Tasted January 2014.

2010 Brio de Cantenac 90
There is plenty of ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with mint and
boysenberry jam, the oak nicely integrated and with plenty of body. The palate
is medium-bodied with good acidity cutting through the clean black fruit. This
is nicely composed, very harmonious and a classy little number. Tasted January
2014.

2010 Château Cantenac-Brown 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. Wow - one of those wines
that seemed to excel under blind conditions, this is a Margaux that should be
taken seriously. The 2010 demonstrates a lot of extraction on the nose with
liquorice infused black fruit, iodine and blueberry jam. This is on the brink
of being over-ripe - but it knows the line not to cross. The palate is
medium-bodied with a succulent entry, generous and honeyed in texture, the
acidity nicely judged and it builds towards a multi-layered finish that is both
sophisticated and engaging. Long-term. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Dauzac 91
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. There is plenty of ripeness
on the nose of the Dauzac 2010, with macerated dark cherries, hints of cassis
and violets, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with very
fine tannins, good acidity and a precise, classy finish. This is very fine and
should drink well over the next 10 to 15 years. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Deyrem-Valentin 88
The Deyrem-Valentin 2010 does not quite relive its superb showing from barrel or
just after bottling. For sure, it has an attractive bouquet with ripe blackberry
and raspberry fruit interlaced with mint and cough candy. It is a little showy
but clean and pure. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, plenty of
new oak and what feels like a slightly muffled finish. Hopefully it will
improve and regain its class with continued bottle age. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Durfort-Vivens 86
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Durfort-Vivens begins
in promising fashion, demonstrating pleasing fruité on the nose, with mulberry,
dark plum and a touch of cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with a sour entry,
fine tannins and a light fleshy finish with hints of liquorice and truffle. The
problem is a nagging green note towards the tapered finish, taking the gloss off
of what could have been a decent wine. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Ferrière 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Ferrière 2010 has a
sensual bouquet with dark cherries, black plum and a touch of incense. The
palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, nicely judged acidity and a rounded
dark plum and balsamic-tinged finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Good
show for Ferrière. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Giscours 94
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. I have always thought that
this was one of the finest wines that has come from Giscours in recent years.
Here, the 2010 has a well-defined, quite intense bouquet with dried violet
petals infusing the precocious black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and
very structured, but it certainly has the weight of fruit to support it. The
finish is opaque and dense, a great wine built for the long-term. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Château d'Issan 93
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The d'Issan 2010 has a fine
blackcurrant and iodine scented bouquet with well-integrated oak. There is fine
lift here - a smooth operator. The palate is medium-bodied with extracted sweet
dark plum, mulberry and allspice notes. Quite edgy with cracked black pepper
towards the finish, this is a finely made Margaux. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Kirwan 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Kirwan 2010 has a very
attractive, marine-influenced bouquet with touches of seaweed and iodine
infusing the clean and pure fresh black fruit. The oak is neatly folded in
here. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive cohesion on the entry. This
is well balanced with more body and structure than its peers, with plenty of
dusky black fruit to give it persistency. Very fine. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Labégorce 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Labégorce 2010 has a
very concentrated bouquet with lush blackberries, loganberry and
well-integrated oak that lends this a high quality modern sheen. The palate is
medium-bodied with a silky smooth entry, well judged acidity and a fleshy,
slightly savoury finish with better complexity than its peers. Tasted January
2014.

2010 Château Lascombes 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. After a couple of hit and
miss samples, finally I encounter what appears to be a representative Lascombes
2010. It is lacking a little vigour on the nose with pretty blackcurrant and
briary scents, though it needs more vigour and presence. The palate is
medium-bodied with quite a succulent entry. Sweet and rounded, nicely
structured with a persistent finish, this is a decent Margaux for mid- rather
than long-term ageing. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Malescot St Exupery 94+
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Malescot St. Exupery
2010 has a vigorous bouquet with abundant black cherries, blackcurrant, cedar
and sous-bois notes that soar from the glass. The oak is present but nicely
integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, a fine
line of acidity and a composed, fleshy finish that belies the structure
underneath. This is a solid, enjoyable Margaux that should age well. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Château Margaux 96+
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Château Margaux 2010 is
more open and generous than its peers with sumptuous red and black fruit: dark
cherries, juniper berries, dried herbs and undergrowth. The palate is
medium-bodied with ravishing black fruit laced with blueberry and cassis. It is
imbued with superb acidity and tension, very good weight with a long sweet,
sensual finish that belies the tannins underneath. This is a deceptively
serious wine. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 92
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Pavillon Rouge has an
introverted nose at first, but it opens nicely in the glass to reveal
blackberry, sage and undergrowth scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a
gentle, spice-tinged entry. Good extraction here, almost honeyed in the mouth
but there is the acidity to keep everything in check. This Pavillon Rouge is
"sweet 'n tender" and should age well. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux 88
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Pavillon Blanc has a
light, slightly muffled bouquet with apple peelings, pear and some light
granite scents. The palate is well balanced with a rather simple, Sauvignon
opening, crisp acidity but a very foursquare finish. I was expecting more from
this, but it rather pales against some its peers under blind conditions. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Château Marquis d'Alesme Becker 94
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The impressive Marquis
d'Alesme Becker has a very refined bouquet with superb definition, blackberry
and raspberry fruit; hints of cedar and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied
with a ferrous entry, fine acidity and a cohesive and structured, Graves-like
finish. This has always been an assured Margaux and it appears to be maturing
very well. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Marquis de Terme 88+
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Marquis de Terme 2010
is more reserved on the nose with light floral notes: dried rose and violet
petals, hints of blueberry and cassis, although the aromatics lack a little
presence. The palate is medium-bodied with a grainy entry, quite pointed
acidity and edgy tannins. It tapers away a little towards the finish, although
it does maintain balance and focus. I suspect this has closed down in the last
year and I would give it the benefit of doubt. It should return to full bloom
eventually. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Monbrison 87
The Monbrison 2010 seems just a little muffled on the nose at first, although it
gains clarity with aeration. Scents of black cherries, cedar and sandalwood
begin to emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe black fruit,
decent acidity and a gentle grippy finish. This is a capable if slightly
unexciting Margaux 2010. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Palmer 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Château Palmer 2010 has
a more extrovert bouquet than its peers, with blackberry and raspberry fruit
interlaced with camphor - exuberant and showy. The palate is medium-bodied with
silky smooth tannins. There is a lot of extraction here, plenty of volume with a
thickly layered, almost mellifluous finish that belies that structure
underneath. There is a touch of Szechuan pepper lingering on the aftertaste.
This is a very assured and sumptuous Palmer. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Alter Ego de Palmer 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Alter Ego de Palmer has
a very floral bouquet, much more Margaux in character than its peers, with fine
definition and mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe
tannins. Chewy in the mouth, towards the finish is feels a little over-thought,
though hopefully it will develop more tension and delineation with time. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Château Prieuré-Lichine 89
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Prieuré-Lichine has a
classy bouquet with blackberry, mulberry and tobacco - quite Saint Julien in
style with good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with a light supple
entry: tart cherry fruit, bitter lemon and a very structured finish that is
needs a couple more years to fully integrate. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Rauzan-Gassies 87
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Rauzan Gassies 2010 has
a light but agreeable bouquet with mulberry and damp moss infusing the black
fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sharp saline entry. It feels hollow
on the middle with a rather hard finish but it seems to meld together in the
glass. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Rauzan Segla 93
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. I have encountered better
bottles of Rauzan-Segla 2010 that this one. It has a classy, sophisticated
bouquet with blackberry, briary, cedar and graphite - almost Pauillac in style.
The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ripe tannins. This is fleshy in the
mouth, quite succulent with spicy red fruit and a lascivious and very
approachable finish. Delicious. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Siran 91
The Siran 2010 has an elegant, floral bouquet with strawberry jam, raspberry and
cedar scents beautifully entwined. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp
tannins, well-judged acidity and plenty of dusty black fruit on the finish.
This is very fine, a more restrained style from Siran with great finesse than
recent vintages. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château du Tertre 89+
Despite coaxing, this has a very recalcitrant, broody bouquet that consequently
seems a little anonymous compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied
with firm tannins, a saline entry and plenty of fleshy black fruit with a
harmonious, slightly austere finish. This still needs bottle age to settle and
get everything aligned. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château La Tour de Mons 90
This is a very good 2010 from La Tour de Mons. It has an attractive, very
classic bouquet with tobacco-laced black fruit, cedar and just a faint touch of
mint. The oak is neatly folded in to the fruit profile. The palate is
medium-bodied with fine, slightly chewy tannins and it swerves towards lush red
fruit towards the finish. This is a very well crafted Margaux. Tasted January
2014.

2010 Villa de Quatre Soeur 90
The Villa de Quatre Soeur has plenty of blackberry, raspberry and tobacco/cigar
box scents on the nose that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is
medium-bodied with a sharp entry. Quite angular tannins here, but it displays a
nice line of acidity and a decent supple finish. This is a commendable Margaux
from Luc Thienpont. Tasted January 2014.


Pessac Leognan

Down to Pessac-Léognan and boom! There we have my first 100-pointer and a quite
staggering performance from Château Haut-Brion. The crucial thing here is that
the 14.6% alcohol is cunningly disguised, barely noticeable in the wine so that
the spellbinding mineralité filters through. It shone like diamond in the
line-up of wines and in actual fact, two participants were moved to award a
perfect score. Château La Mission Haut-Brion was not far behind and actually
garnered the highest average score of the entire tasting, with no less than
three participants offering perfect scores, which I cannot recall ever
happening before in Southwold. Of course, one can argue that stylistically
these are bold, flamboyant and extrovert wines from Jean-Philippe Delmas and
perhaps consumed in modest quantity that glossiness might begin to pall. But
still, you cannot retract how this wine performed on the day and I have
suitably adjusted my scores. By the way, that is not the only perfect score I
dished out during the tasting.

I should also mention a very strong showing for the second wine, Clarence de
Haut-Brion, which makes it appear as if quality filtered down to the second
wine. That should offer some respite for those unable to afford the Grand Vin.

Elsewhere, the highlights come from a sensational Château Pape-Clement and
Château Haut-Bailly, which is cut from a similar cloth. Château Smith
Haut-Lafitte was deceivingly taciturn but appeared to improve dramatically with
aeration, although in my mind, there is a gap between the Cathiard's grand cru
and Prince Robert de Luxembourg's. Perhaps the dark horse galloped in with a
stunning performance from Château La Tour-Martillac, gleaning respectable
comments from all concerned.

Overall, the appellation was a little more up and down than I was expecting. I
anticipated better showings from the likes of Château Malartic-Lagravière,
Carbonnieux and Domaine de Chevalier, but in retrospect these wines may be
beginning to shut down a little, in particular the latter.

2010 Château Bouscaut 86
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Bouscaut 2010 has a
very sweet bouquet with red cherries, fig and plenty of star anis that opens
nicely but it's not Bordeaux - too medicinal. The palate is medium-bodied with
a candied entry, marmalade and savoury fruit, heavy-handed oak marring the
finish. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Carbonnieux 90?
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Carbonnieux 2010 has a
precocious bouquet with prune-tinged black fruit, peppermint and macerated dark
cherries. Interestingly, these were the traits that I remarked upon out of
barrel, disappearing after bottling but returning here under blind conditions.
The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ripe black fruit, a grainy texture and a
conservative, tannic finish that goes some way to restore order. I'll be keeping
an eye on those aromatics. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Carmes Haut-Brion 2010
has a straight down the line, well defined Graves bouquet that is very elegant:
blackberry, raspberry and briary fruit. The oak is perfectly disguised. The
palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, good depth and fine acidity. It
just comes across as a little forceful towards the finish, whilst there is a
touch of bitterness on the aftertaste that this wine has to address. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Domaine de Chevalier 93+
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. When I first broached this
Domaine de Chevalier, it was difficult to discern. There is plenty of fruit on
the nose: clean and very pure with creamy new oak, modern in style a well
defined. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit on the
entry. Slightly lower in acidity than its peers, chewy towards the finish, I
was just seeking a little more backbone towards the finish. The wine does
improve and coalesce in the glass, and I find myself ruing my initial
parsimonious score. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château de Fieuzal 92
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. This is a strong showing
from de Fieuzal. It has a pretty bouquet with perfumed floral red berry fruit
and nicely integrated oak - natural but not short-changing you in flavour. The
palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, pointed acidity, dusky black fruit
with a linear, but quite classy finish. This is a very competent de Fieuzal that
should age with style. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Gazin-Roquencourt 86
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Gazin-Roquencourt has a
ripe bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis and boysenberry jam, the oak
nicely integrated, quite modern in style. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe
tannic entry but it is missing some tension towards the finish. Tasted January
2014.

2010 Château Haut-Bailly 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Haut-Bailly 2010 has a
more extrovert bouquet with macerated red cherries, blueberry and quite
conspicuous new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly chewy entry.
There is firm structure here, a pleasant saline tang and a gentle build towards
a grippy finish that needs a little more flesh. This is another Pessac-Léognan
that really improves in the glass with modest aeration. Wonderful. Tasted
January 2014.

2010 Château Haut-Bergey 93
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Haut-Bergey 2010 has a
very concentrated bouquet with dense blackberry, briary, crushed stone and
tobacco on the nose that unfolds in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with
chewy tannins on the entry. There is a lot of extraction here, but it is in tune
with the acidity and the structured finish has plenty of vibrant red fruit and
energy to see it through to the long term. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Haut-Brion 100
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Haut-Brion 2010 is a
stunning wine that provoked a few perfect scores around the table. It is
blessed with a compelling bouquet with superb precision and focus: wonderful
mineralité, slightly conservative and withdrawn and yet displaying immense
clarity and terroir expression. With continued aeration there is just a hint of
the sea surfacing and one never detects the 14.6% alcohol. The palate is
backward, tannic and broody, but immensely powerful and multi-layered. This is
a multi-dimensional wine, very long and persistency in the mouth with a
bewilderingly complex finish. Tasted January 2014.

2010 La Clarence de Haut-Brion 94
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. I enjoyed this wine from
barrel and just after bottling. Under blind conditions it really shows its
quality. It has a very attractive bouquet with notes of blackberry, cigar box,
raspberry leaf and a touch of sandalwood - quite complex and nicely defined.
The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity. There is real density here,
caressing in the mouth but full of vigour and breeding. Long and tender towards
the finish, this is a lovely wine. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion 87
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Larrivet Haut-Brion
2010 has a dense blackberry, spicy bouquet with plenty of minty Cabernet fruit.
The palate is medium-bodied with drying tannins. The oak is sticking out a
little on the mid-palate with a rather austere finish. This is not ageing with
the grace that I was hoping for. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château La Louviere 90
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Château La Louvière
2010 has a tightly wound bouquet with light blackberry and cedar aromas that
need a touch more vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent ripe
entry, a fine line of acidity and a composed ripe finish that is elegant and
long. This falls just a furlong short of my expectation from just after
bottling. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Malartic-Lagravière 91
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Malartic-Lagravière
2010 has a very modern nose with plenty of cassis and boysenberry notes,
rendering it almost Margaux-like in character (something I picked up just over
a year ago.) The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ravishing ripe fruit. In
the intervening period, this has become quite glossy and decadent, perhaps at
the expense of some finesse that it showed after bottling. Hopefully it will
regain that composure and sophistication. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 97
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Château La Mission
Haut-Brion 2010 is beginning to really show its class. Strangely, here it is
more introspective and broody on the nose: intense blackberry and boysenberry
aromas, fine mineralité, quite feminine and symmetrical. After 10 minutes it
develops more intensity and volume. The palate is medium-bodied with firm and
taut tannins. This is very linear and focused, very intense and backwards, with
a compelling sense of symmetry and precision on the mineral-laden finish.
Aristocratic. Tasted January 2014.

2010 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion 92
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The La Chapelle de la
Mission Haut Brion 2010 has a relatively simple bouquet with dusty black fruit,
suggestions of an attic stacked with old furniture. The palate is medium-bodied
with crisp tannins, plenty of dusky black fruit laced with black olive and a
citric note joining towards the finish. Fine structure, quite grippy, but the
finish is more promising than the start, leaving you with a positive
impression. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Olivier 86
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. I was hoping for more from
this estate in 2010 after a promising showing after bottling. The nose is
offers ripe black cherry and boysenberry scents with nicely integrated oak. The
palate is medium-bodied with some hard tannins on the entry. This feels quite
firm in the mouth with a meaty, slightly bretty finish. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Pape-Clement 96
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Pape-Clément 2010 has a
lovely floral, generous bouquet with vibrant vivacious blackberry and crushed
strawberry fruit with very well integrated oak, much more expressive than just
one year ago. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins on the entry,
the oak still a little present but rounded and fleshy in the mouth. This is a
really classy wine, breeding from top to bottom. Tasted January 2014.

2010 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. Upon initial pouring, the
Smith Haut Lafitte 2010 appears a little unsettled, perhaps just getting used
to its surroundings. However, it rapidly gains harmony and clarity, developing
seductive scents of luscious raspberry and wild strawberry, hints of incense
and dried violets, the new oak still a little conspicuous and needing further
bottle age to fully integrated. The palate is rounded and pleasurable from the
start: fine acidity, gentle tannins, quite caressing on the finish. This is a
consummate Smith Haut-Lafitte that will repay long-term ageing. Tasted January
2014.

2010 Château La Tour Martillac 95
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. This is a great La Tour
Martillac that must be one the finest releases from the estate in recent years.
It has quite an elegant understated bouquet with autumn leaves infusing the
black fruit profile, later tobacco and cigar box. Good vigour and class. The
palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity on the entry. It is underpinned by
good structure, with plenty of red and black fruit and an engaging delineated
finish brimming with energy. There is some high quality terroir and fruit here.
Tasted January 2014.

[Comte Flaneur]

I tasted quite a few 2010s and my impressions are similar to Neal's in all appellations. His notes are a lot more consistent and coherent than Jancis's.

I bought five cases: La Conseillante, Pape Clement, Leoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose and Branaire Ducru. Glad he agreed on the first four but disagreed on the Branaire, which I thought was marvellous.

Also his qualitative description of Chateau Margaux seems right but his quantitative scores seems stingey. If Ch Margaux is the least strong of the FGs the others (in the Big Nine) must be terrifyingly good.

In my experience the 2010 vintage is clearly superior to the 2009. It is a dream come true. So many estates hit the ball out of the park.

[greatbxfreak]

Imho La Mission 2010 is better than Haut Brion 2010, Palmer is valued too low, Giscours spot on and one of the greatest values for money in this vintage. Btw, the latter's vineyard goes back to Tari-Heeter family next year after Albada's fermage ends.

Completely disagree on Rauzan Gassies, but spot on with Brane Cantenac.

Btw, it's Neal Martin not Neil (Martin).

[AKR]

Neil Martin's note

2010 Brio de Cantenac 90
There is plenty of ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with mint and
boysenberry jam, the oak nicely integrated and with plenty of body. The palate
is medium-bodied with good acidity cutting through the clean black fruit. This
is nicely composed, very harmonious and a classy little number. Tasted January
2014.

I double decanted and lightly chilled a bottle of the 2010 Brio de Cantenac Brown [Margaux] and then enjoyed it over a couple of days. It's 13.5% abv, and fairly dark in hue given the age, but the sediment is almost non existent, perhaps it was filtered. Typical Bordeaux cepage, and the Brio gets a little oak since it is intended for early drinking. I would say age ten is likely stretching it for most palates. I'm not sure why, but a tremendous amount of this wine has found its way to consumers via Costco, discounters, WTSO etc. It's good quality, but I still think its trading off its big brothers cachet, and would not feel what is in the glass really supports a $25-$30 price. Cantenac Brown is an estate that I've only bought a few bottles over all this time, last bottle drank was a 2012 that WilliamP brought to dinner sometime back, so I'm not sure what their deuxieme should really be like. Sometimes they are smaller versions of the grand vin, other times they are a different expressions. In any case I get pencil shavings on the nose, plums on the palate, with a touch of acidity, and then resolved tannins. On the first day there was a Rhone flamboyance even, but that disappeared as it breathed. Good wine, but when the value proposition is considered, a pass next time around. I'll give it a B.

The label and brown bottle are pleasing, shaped slightly different than a regular 750ml it seems.

[Claudius2]

Guys
I just checked my storage unit manifest.
I have 19 full (12 bottle) cases of 2010 Bdx, not to mention a few loose bottles in the wine fridge. Now I am starting to wonder why I bought so much from one vintage.
However, I was pleased to see that I do have cases of some of the wines reviewed above from Margaux and Pessac Leognan.

I do however have a mental block with Brane Cantenac though I bought Cantenac Brown in 2010.
My past experiences with this estate many years ago simply meant that it has not been on my radar for the last 40 years. Okay, I have a long memory when wine, money and stock indices are involved.
But maybe I should loosen up at buy some.

[marcs]

In my experience the 2010 vintage is clearly superior to the 2009. It is a dream come true. So many estates hit the ball out of the park.

Before Covid hit I was going to a fair number of verticals (though I'm sure many less than you Ian), and in every case but one I was finding the 2009 superior to the 2010 of the same wine. The 2009s were fleshy and fruity but charming and well integrated, and the 2010s were forbiddingly tannic and had a somewhat overdone feeling to them.

Interestingly, the sole exception was Leoville Poyferre, where the 100 point 2009 LP was sloppy-sweet and alcoholic and the more tannic nature of the 2010 imposed some needed structure. Didn't love LP that whole vertical, except for the 2000 and 2005.