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Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:23 am
by DavidG
My wife and I will be spending a week in Aix-en-Provence in September and are planning a day trip to Chateauneuf to visit one or two properties. We could use some advice.

Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraphe are long-time favorites. I'm also a fan of Pegau. How are they about visits? We would call or email ahead for an appointment. Do we need to ask for help from the local distributor or retailer?

My French is passable for tourism, but I'm far from fluent and would be lost discussing winemaking in French. Are they, or any other properties known for tolerating English speakers?

Peggy's not big into tastings and winery tours, so we plan on only one or two visits. Anything else we should be sure to do while there? Anything special to see, or someplace special to stop for lunch? Any comments on the drive from Aix to CduP and finding one's way around?

Re: Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:37 pm
by AlexR
David,

I've only been do CdP three times in my life, but it bothered me that no one answered your question on BWE or the Berserker's board...

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a lovely little town, but little is the operative word. Much smaller than Saint-Emilion, for instance.
Practical: It can get hotter than hades there, and this may well be the case in September.
The only time in my life I experienced the mistral was in CdP. It can be a nuisance, but I wouldn't really know to what degree this can be the case.

Château de Fines Roches makes good wine, and they are also a hotel/restaurant.

You can always buy Harry Karis' book. It has a lot of useful information. That unfortunately leaves a bitter taste in my mouth though. I revised the book for him one summer and he never paid me and is nowhere to be found.

I've visited Pegau. They're very simple down-home people. On the whole, I'm convinced that if you could target a specific time and asked for a visit by e-mail, you would have no problem going most anywhere except for Rayas. Please don't forget that they harvest early in CdP.
http://onerc.developpement-durable.gouv ... ridionales

All the best,
Alex

Re: Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 2:07 am
by dstgolf
David,

Haven't been to the area in about ten years but back then everything was wide open. Never had any bookings....just showed up. Tain Hermitage ( I know Northern Rhone...but) we were at Chapoutier and Chaves where they both put up whatever we wanted to sample from the most recent vintage. Chapoutier was especially open and inviting to sample down the line with ample time to discuss and tour. From there we went south and stayed in Vaison la Romaine a fabulous town we knew nothing about but beautiful setting staying surrounded by vineyard clad hills in a 14th century hotel..amazing. Just south Seguret we stopped in at several vineyards and no issues. No interest in having appointments and stress on vacation. Never know where you are going to be and can be difficult finding your way around on your own with a deadline. It's supposed to be vacation and many/most of the places we stopped into had great stuff to taste with wonderful settings and all very inviting. I suggest go with the flow and if you want email a few places and make your appointments but don't stress it if you're lost/pressed for time or just too tired. The people do speak English and don't be worried about feeling unwelcome. Much different through the Rhone Valley than Burgundy and Bordeaux or Napa for that matter.

Aix en Provence nice and hilight in the area was their market and be sure you find what day its on and walk around. Beaux is nice but a little too commercial/tourist trap for me. Just tour around and every corner is a new treasure. No schedule needed...just relax and enjoy.

Re: Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:35 am
by DavidG
Thank you Alex and Danny. Between your advice and the responses from the Berserkers board, I am now thinking I want to spend a few days there. So much to do!

Re: Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:22 am
by jmccready
If you like to hang out in a small town 2 days are fine but after several trips I found one day enough. It is as Alex says, small and hot
so an appointment in the a.m., lunch at a good restaurant (there are only a few), and a tasting in the afternoon should be a good
one day trip. Two days will allow you to see more tumbleweeds-but definitely worth a parched visit. JM

Re: Visit to Chateauneuf

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 3:06 pm
by DavidG
Thanks for the perspective JM.