1999 Bordeaux at Kittle House

[Comte Flaneur]

Jacques hosted an impromptu mini BWE offline last night at Kittle House, Chappaqua. Given all the chatter surrounding the 1999 vintage, it was imperative for us to carry out some important scientific research, for which Jacques also enlisted the not inconsiderable talents of Dale and Arv.

To get the ball rolling…

1990 Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese

Evolved colour, light on its feet, fresh and remarkably sweet for a spatlese, notes of yellow peaches, this went well with some foie gras. Nice on a summery evening and only 8% ABV. ****

Two flights of 1999s

Monbousquet

Young colour, oaky, coconut and some tropical fruits, a tad uncultured on the plate; a bit too oaky, extracted and hot for my liking. Seems like this is going down a blind alley. I think the others liked it more than I did, but it was clearly outclassed on the night. **

Palmer

Glorious/heavenly Palmer nose; this is rich, poised and elegant; but still very tight and wound up; this still needs another decade in my opinion but will be ranked among the great Palmers. This wine never fails to impress, nor reassert its wotv credentials. ****(***)

Leoville-Lascases

This has notes of lead pencil and cedar; delicious medium-bodied and chewy palate; absolutely ready to go now – unusual for a LLC aged ten. But if you love mature LLC this is one to go for. Clearly the best wine for current drinking. A veritable pleasure. *****

La Mission Haut-Brion

Tobacco and earthy notes (of course); still wound up on the palate; this will resolve into an elegant, stylish, La Mish – needs another 5-10 years to get there, however. This will surely overhaul the LLC in time. Impressive. ****(**)

Rieussec 1997

The fourth Rieussec I have tried this month – I found this quite backward but with a nice structure; tropical fruits, vanilla and caramel. Another delicious Rieussec – I would put this ahead of the 1999, slightly ahead of the 2002 and behind the otherwordly 2003. *****(*)

So what scientific conclusions did we draw? One conclusion is that the generalization that this is a forward vintage with no mileage to be had in ageing these wines does not apply across the board. It certainly does for the LLC, but clearly not for the Palmer and La Mission, both of which are adolescents, which will develop into very serious clarets in the next ten years.

Thanks to Jacques for organizing and Arv for paying, it was good to get together with good friends. Jacques is threatening to do another similar dinner on May 18th so sign up now…

[DavidG]

Nice report. I haven't really started exploring my '99s yet, unfortunately no '99 LLC or Palmer in the cellar. How is Arv? Haven't heard from him in ages...

[jal]

Good notes Ian, I have nothing much to add, except that the spatlese was a teeny bit sweet and paired off great with the foie gras amuse. I really liked the Palmer and I suggest not opening the La Mission for at least another five years.

Yesterday was kind of impromptu and we were lucky to have Dale and Arv available at the last minute, but, as previously mentioned, we talked about a repeat at the Kittle House on Monday May 18. Anyone cares to join? Mondays there are byo.

[jal]

How is Arv? Haven't heard from him in ages...

Arv is good, David. He and I were talking bidness last week and he got the last minute approval to join us.

[Blanquito]

Great notes. Glad to hear Arv is still making the wine rounds once in a while. Give him my best when you see him again.

I think the 1999 vintage is the best "young" Bordeaux for drinking right now. 1997 is good now too, but not as consistently good as the 1999's are.

[Chasse-Spleen]

There will undoubtedly be quite a few '99 horizontals happening around the world this year. Anyone who is unable to enjoy them should probably 'lighten up' a little bit - ha ha ha! Thanks for the notes. Too bad you didn't have the '99 Lafon-Rochet - that's an earthy, delicious mouthful, but probably mostly drunk up by now it's so tasty.
-Chasse

[rjsussex]

Barton 99 is lovely (dark roasted) now - took ages to hit its stride and while it waited Langoa came and went, nice too (funky) but not remotely up to Barton...

RJ favourite chateau Durfort Vivens also good but needs drinking up - very pure light-style Margaux.

R

[Nicklasss]

I think i don't have anymore 1999. I did not buy a lot to start with. Interesting comments on 3 well regarded estate for the 1999 vintage (I let you guess which of the three is a less regarded estate...).

Personnally, I drank 6 bottles of the 1999 Clerc-Milon from 2002 to 2006, and always found it boring. the 1999 Mouton Rothschild was a good one.

Nic