Rigorous training for BWE Bordeaux 2015

[Comte Flaneur]

As part of my vigorous, rigorous, relentless and brutal training regime for BWE' s epic tour of Bordeaux May 2015 I went to a tasting on a Thursday held by Johnny Goedhuis, a merchant in the UK. I think there were something like 50 producers and 150 wines on show, mainly from 2012, 2009, 2008 and 2005. No first growths but quite a few big names showed up. The tasting was held in the magnificent Saatchi art gallery in the swanky Kings Road, just off Sloane Square. 

On behalf of the BWE Brotherhood and Sisterhood I gave it my best shot. Some wines I missed out on because the greedy gannets had got there first. My notes are somewhat skimpy, but I am trying to convey impressions mainly. 

A fair bit of confirmation bias here in the vintages: 2012 is a reasonable vintage, but 2008 is generally better. There is quite a big step up to 2005 and 2009, very different vintages. The 2005s are characterised by the density of their core, the 2009s by their exuberance. Both are great vintages. But 2008 and 2012 should not be overlooked either. 

Margaux

Ch. Du Tertre 2012

Lively and fresh, very nice...90

Ch. Du Tertre 2009

This is extremely good, and most exuberant and approachable, really has everything...92

Ch. Giscours 2009

Similarly exuberant and luscious as DuTertre, Perhaps a little more reserved but with an added layer of mineral complexity...92

Ch. D'Issan 2012

Very good. 90

Ch. D'Issan 2009

Quite fat and exuberant. I asked Emanuel Cruse about the ABV. He said probably 12pointsomething. Then he looked and said actually 14%. Really delicious and not OTT. Only 50% new oak. 92

Ch. D'Issan 2008

A very nice wine. More restrained than the 2009 but a bit more stuffing than the 2012. Would be happy to have this in the cellar. 91

Ch. D'Issan 2005

Probably the pick of the four, and the most serious. It has a dense dark core. Very classy stuff. It was also Mon Cruse's pick. 93

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2005 

Very suave and classy, also with a rich dense core and a long silky finish. 95

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2008

Quite a telling difference between the two vintages. The 2008 has a nice meatiness and chewiness on the mid, but lacks the concentration and power of the five. A very nice wine nonetheless. 91


St-Julien

Ch. Gloria 2012

Lovely chewy medium bodied claret and very approachable 2012

Ch. Gloria 2009

Excellent, rich and exuberant. 92 (sadly the 2008 was not shown)

Ch. Gloria 2005

In keeping where the vintage character less exuberant than the nine, but dense and serious. Excellent. 92

Ch. St-Pierre 2009

Similar to the Gloria only a tad more cassis and exuberance! 92

Ch. Branaire Ducru 2012

Very well made, medium bodied, already drinking well, and will age nicely. 91

Ch. Branaire Ducru 2005 

This really has everything. This example was really singing, with a deep core of fruit and added mineral complexity. Already approachable it has a distinguished future. 95

Ch. Leoville Barton 2005

The only Leoville or Langoa I tried, given we tasted vertically in November and we are visiting in May. The 2005 Leoville was missing from the November line up, and it has the class of the 2004 and 2008 but with added density and power. It is approachable because the tannins are so suave, but it is clearly for the long haul. 95


Pauillac

Ch. Haut Batailley 2012

I found this a little but thin and rustic, notably by comparison of what came before. 87

Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2012

This was a significant improvement in class, but not really very exciting. 90

Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2005

I think this wine has gone into its shell, and it tasted a little bit flat compared to some other 2005s. It does have the attributes to develop into a fine wine. 91 on the night, but will be sure to revisit and keep tabs on how this evolves. But right now give me Branaire, Rauzan or Leo B any day. 

Ch. Pichon Lalande 2012

Near the top of the pile of 2012s, it has an easygoing charm and effortless class. 91/92

Ch. Pichon Lalande 2008

Similar to the 2012. Easygoing and classy. Nothing forced here. A wine with delightful ambience. 93. 
Sadly the 2005 had gone by then.

Ch. Pichon Baron 2012

Equal top left bank 2012 I tried. Outstanding in the context of the vintage. 92


St-Estephe

Ch. Montrose 2012

A very similar wine to the Baron. Serious and outstanding for a 12. 92
All other wines had been hoovered by the gannets

Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2012

An accessible style, with some spices and minerals and a pleasure to drink. 91

Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2008

A little more serious on the mid-palate with Asian spices, a nicely judged and classy wine. 93
Sadly the 2005 and 2009 were long gone.

Ch. Calon Segur 2008

A brilliant effort. Really fine and elegant for Calon, fresh and long. One to own. 93 

Ch. Phelan Segur 2005

An impressive showing, dense with dark fruits and a fine finish. 91


St-Emilion

Ch. Corbin Despagne 2012

A good, but fairly simple wine, which needs a bit of time. 87

Ch. Corbin Despagne 2009

Unconvincing, still needs more time. 88

Ch Trottevieille 2008

I rather liked this because it had a nice balancing freshness of a higher than average slug of Cabernet Franc (48%). S consistent theme. Still ripe and juicy. 91

Ch Clos Fourtet 2005

Some raved about this, I thought the merlot needed taming with more Cabernet Franc. While luscious and exuberant I found a tad too much heat. 89
I didn't visit the Canon stand because we are visiting there on May 19


Pomerol

Chateau Bearegard 2008

A nice fresh wine (has approx 35% CF). 89

Ch. Gazin 2012

Nice but I found this a tad green compared to some other Pomerols...(read on) 89

Ch. Gazin 2008

A bit more ripeness and density, but not exuberant. 91

Ch. Petit Village 2012

Lovely n plummy, tastes under-ripe next to the 2009 though. 89

Ch. Petit Village 2009

Riper, more luscious and sexier. Surprisingly selling at the same price as the 12. As Sean Connery would say 'shurely shome mishtake' 91

Ch. La Conseillante 2012

Different class and brilliant showing in the context of this vintage, with no hollowness, no greeness, just a seamless medium bodied delivery with some very classy mineral undertones. Comfortably the best 2012 on show. And arguably a bargain. 94

Ch. La Conseillante 2009

A little bit rounder, richer and more exuberant than the 12. Fabulous wine. 95

Ch. La Conseillante 2005

It was difficult to choose between these wines. The 2005 is going through a slightly broody phase, but is undoubtedly a very classy and serious wine for the long haul, again with mineral undertones. It still has plenty of grippy tannins. 95

Ch. L'Evangile 2009

Inky opaque with a ruby purple rim, indicating this is just a baby. It is an extraordinary full-bodied and rich wine, which still manages to be beautifully poised, and layered. It has berries, spices and flowers, a sumptuous mouthfeel and a glorious finish. 98


Pessac-Leognan

Ch. Ferran Blanc 2013

The first wine I tried, which was fresh and zesty. Worth seeking if the price is right. 90

Ch Ferran Rouge 2010

Quite a rumbustious, grippy style with plenty of stuffing. 90

Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2005

Beautiful wine with an array of exotic fruits with an overlay of sweet grapefruit. 93

Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2012

Another gorgeous wine, which is still quite tight but shows enormous promise. It is fresh and has a fabulous mouthfeel. 93

Ch. Haut Bailly 2012

Superb with tobacco, earth and berries overlaid with a terrific mineral freshness in a medium-bodied format. 92

Ch. Haut Bailly 2009

I am not one to resort to cant and jargon but I have to say this is shockingly brilliant. It is so easy to drink, and is medium to full bodied and exuberant but it has layered complexity as well as fine balance. I liked this more than the 2010. 97

Ch. Haut Bailly 2008

A toned down version of the 2009, really superb. 93

At the end I tasted some Sauternes and Barsac...the 2009s were brilliant, especially Suduiraut

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

Haven't had many of those. Interested in your take on the '08 Gazin. Somebody (OK, Parker) called it a hypothetical blend of Lafleur and Petrus or something hyperbolic like that. I've had it twice. It's been big but hard, hot and oaky. My impression is that many years will be needed for it to become whatever the heck it's going to become.

[JimHow]

I am in awe of the personal sacrifices that BWEers will make to advance the bigger cause.

It sounds like Leoville Barton continues to show strong, GPL continues to be questionable, Cos and Calon Segur are making great wines, and Gazin seems to be parkerized.

[AKR]

What kind of fees are involved with these tastings? or are the invites reserved for the better clientele of the retailers? or are the chateaux subsidizing with samples?

Seems more comparable to the UGC events put on in some major US cities annually.

[Michael Malinoski]

Really informative read there, thank you!

I haven't had many of those wines, but I am a big fan of the 05 d'Issan, so glad (though not surprised) to hear that it's still doing quite well. Also nice to read a positive note on Phelan Segur--they've kind of fallen off my radar, but the 2005 seems like a good opportunity to get re-acquainted.

Michael

[Blanquito]

Ch. Gloria 2009
Excellent, rich and exuberant. 92 (sadly the 2008 was not shown)

Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2005
I think this wine has gone into its shell, and it tasted a little bit flat compared to some other 2005s. It does have the attributes to develop into a fine wine. 91 on the night, but will be sure to revisit and keep tabs on how this evolves. But right now give me Branaire, Rauzan or Leo B any day. 

Well done, Ian. I must say, all your notes on recent Bordeaux vintages provide a regular test of my buying-freeze resolve.

The above 2 wines are some of the better young Bordeaux I've had. Love the 2009 Gloria, just kick ass for ~$40. And the 2005 GPL -- based on trying it twice in 2011 -- is a legend in the making, so I agree it must be closed down right now. I certainly plan to keep my hands off my ample stash for at least another 5 years.

[dstgolf]

NICE!

Chevalier Blanc has been hitting well above its pedigree for a while and agree that 05 was delicious.

Haut Bailly has been a solid wine since at least 1998 when I was first introduced and has had some stellar years in 05,09 and 10. Modernized Pessac with noticeable terroir maintained.

Conseillante has always been a favourite but last buy was 1999 when it was the last affordable vintage even though not the finest. Truly looking forward to visiting the Chateaux next month. PL and PB different styles across the street from one another but always have turned my crank. 82 PL still gets me salivating and hate to say I've always sided with the purple Baron over LB in the slugg fests but my arm can be twisted when we have an epic visit to both Chateaux on our final day to have my mind changed. Let the magic begin but I'm sure a knock out punch won't be thrown...again!!

Thanks for the notes Ian.

Danny

[Comte Flaneur]

Arv - it was £75 for 150 mins of speed dating...I think there was the other type going on judging by the amount if perfume some of the less serious punters were bathed in, and what they were wearing.

I did find it an interesting exercise. Thinking back there are several wines which have gone up my pecking order, Du Tertre and D'Issan immediately spring to mind - I really loved the 1999 D'Issan a month or two back. It had a slightly old fashioned come hither quality. Regarding Branaire and one or two others it really was a question of preaching to the already converted.

The other estate I liked a lot more than I expected was Haut-Bailly. I expected the 2009 to be Parkerised and it wasn't. It was just drop dead gorgeous.

La Conseillante meanwhile just goes from strength to strength and the prices, while high, are not bonkers. The wines are incredibly serious these days, as if this La C has lost its innocence from the Halycon wines of the 1980s. This estate is now a well oiled machine, a far cry from when I last visited in 1993. Something I have mixed emotions about. It will be fascinating to visit on May 19.

[robertgoulet]

Great news...I have a mag of '99 d'issan that I am looking for an excuse to drink....I def. need to drink more d'issan and giscours....also '08 calon segur and haut bailly now on the list....and I am embarrassed to say that I have never tasted du terte

[dstgolf]

RG

du Tertre would be right up your alley from all perspectives. Good value,good wine, reliable year in year out since at least 2000 when I believe they started their revival. Well made " Margaux Nouveau" but still holding on to its terroir roots. Along with mothership Giscours they are doing a good job.

[DavidG]

That's a serious training regimen! I'd want Ian on my team for the Bordeaux Winelympics.