Rigorous training for BWE Bordeaux 2015
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:55 pm
As part of my vigorous, rigorous, relentless and brutal training regime for BWE' s epic tour of Bordeaux May 2015 I went to a tasting on a Thursday held by Johnny Goedhuis, a merchant in the UK. I think there were something like 50 producers and 150 wines on show, mainly from 2012, 2009, 2008 and 2005. No first growths but quite a few big names showed up. The tasting was held in the magnificent Saatchi art gallery in the swanky Kings Road, just off Sloane Square.
On behalf of the BWE Brotherhood and Sisterhood I gave it my best shot. Some wines I missed out on because the greedy gannets had got there first. My notes are somewhat skimpy, but I am trying to convey impressions mainly.
A fair bit of confirmation bias here in the vintages: 2012 is a reasonable vintage, but 2008 is generally better. There is quite a big step up to 2005 and 2009, very different vintages. The 2005s are characterised by the density of their core, the 2009s by their exuberance. Both are great vintages. But 2008 and 2012 should not be overlooked either.
Margaux
Ch. Du Tertre 2012
Lively and fresh, very nice...90
Ch. Du Tertre 2009
This is extremely good, and most exuberant and approachable, really has everything...92
Ch. Giscours 2009
Similarly exuberant and luscious as DuTertre, Perhaps a little more reserved but with an added layer of mineral complexity...92
Ch. D'Issan 2012
Very good. 90
Ch. D'Issan 2009
Quite fat and exuberant. I asked Emanuel Cruse about the ABV. He said probably 12pointsomething. Then he looked and said actually 14%. Really delicious and not OTT. Only 50% new oak. 92
Ch. D'Issan 2008
A very nice wine. More restrained than the 2009 but a bit more stuffing than the 2012. Would be happy to have this in the cellar. 91
Ch. D'Issan 2005
Probably the pick of the four, and the most serious. It has a dense dark core. Very classy stuff. It was also Mon Cruse's pick. 93
Chateau Rauzan Segla 2005
Very suave and classy, also with a rich dense core and a long silky finish. 95
Chateau Rauzan Segla 2008
Quite a telling difference between the two vintages. The 2008 has a nice meatiness and chewiness on the mid, but lacks the concentration and power of the five. A very nice wine nonetheless. 91
St-Julien
Ch. Gloria 2012
Lovely chewy medium bodied claret and very approachable 2012
Ch. Gloria 2009
Excellent, rich and exuberant. 92 (sadly the 2008 was not shown)
Ch. Gloria 2005
In keeping where the vintage character less exuberant than the nine, but dense and serious. Excellent. 92
Ch. St-Pierre 2009
Similar to the Gloria only a tad more cassis and exuberance! 92
Ch. Branaire Ducru 2012
Very well made, medium bodied, already drinking well, and will age nicely. 91
Ch. Branaire Ducru 2005
This really has everything. This example was really singing, with a deep core of fruit and added mineral complexity. Already approachable it has a distinguished future. 95
Ch. Leoville Barton 2005
The only Leoville or Langoa I tried, given we tasted vertically in November and we are visiting in May. The 2005 Leoville was missing from the November line up, and it has the class of the 2004 and 2008 but with added density and power. It is approachable because the tannins are so suave, but it is clearly for the long haul. 95
Pauillac
Ch. Haut Batailley 2012
I found this a little but thin and rustic, notably by comparison of what came before. 87
Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2012
This was a significant improvement in class, but not really very exciting. 90
Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2005
I think this wine has gone into its shell, and it tasted a little bit flat compared to some other 2005s. It does have the attributes to develop into a fine wine. 91 on the night, but will be sure to revisit and keep tabs on how this evolves. But right now give me Branaire, Rauzan or Leo B any day.
Ch. Pichon Lalande 2012
Near the top of the pile of 2012s, it has an easygoing charm and effortless class. 91/92
Ch. Pichon Lalande 2008
Similar to the 2012. Easygoing and classy. Nothing forced here. A wine with delightful ambience. 93.
Sadly the 2005 had gone by then.
Ch. Pichon Baron 2012
Equal top left bank 2012 I tried. Outstanding in the context of the vintage. 92
St-Estephe
Ch. Montrose 2012
A very similar wine to the Baron. Serious and outstanding for a 12. 92
All other wines had been hoovered by the gannets
Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2012
An accessible style, with some spices and minerals and a pleasure to drink. 91
Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2008
A little more serious on the mid-palate with Asian spices, a nicely judged and classy wine. 93
Sadly the 2005 and 2009 were long gone.
Ch. Calon Segur 2008
A brilliant effort. Really fine and elegant for Calon, fresh and long. One to own. 93
Ch. Phelan Segur 2005
An impressive showing, dense with dark fruits and a fine finish. 91
St-Emilion
Ch. Corbin Despagne 2012
A good, but fairly simple wine, which needs a bit of time. 87
Ch. Corbin Despagne 2009
Unconvincing, still needs more time. 88
Ch Trottevieille 2008
I rather liked this because it had a nice balancing freshness of a higher than average slug of Cabernet Franc (48%). S consistent theme. Still ripe and juicy. 91
Ch Clos Fourtet 2005
Some raved about this, I thought the merlot needed taming with more Cabernet Franc. While luscious and exuberant I found a tad too much heat. 89
I didn't visit the Canon stand because we are visiting there on May 19
Pomerol
Chateau Bearegard 2008
A nice fresh wine (has approx 35% CF). 89
Ch. Gazin 2012
Nice but I found this a tad green compared to some other Pomerols...(read on) 89
Ch. Gazin 2008
A bit more ripeness and density, but not exuberant. 91
Ch. Petit Village 2012
Lovely n plummy, tastes under-ripe next to the 2009 though. 89
Ch. Petit Village 2009
Riper, more luscious and sexier. Surprisingly selling at the same price as the 12. As Sean Connery would say 'shurely shome mishtake' 91
Ch. La Conseillante 2012
Different class and brilliant showing in the context of this vintage, with no hollowness, no greeness, just a seamless medium bodied delivery with some very classy mineral undertones. Comfortably the best 2012 on show. And arguably a bargain. 94
Ch. La Conseillante 2009
A little bit rounder, richer and more exuberant than the 12. Fabulous wine. 95
Ch. La Conseillante 2005
It was difficult to choose between these wines. The 2005 is going through a slightly broody phase, but is undoubtedly a very classy and serious wine for the long haul, again with mineral undertones. It still has plenty of grippy tannins. 95
Ch. L'Evangile 2009
Inky opaque with a ruby purple rim, indicating this is just a baby. It is an extraordinary full-bodied and rich wine, which still manages to be beautifully poised, and layered. It has berries, spices and flowers, a sumptuous mouthfeel and a glorious finish. 98
Pessac-Leognan
Ch. Ferran Blanc 2013
The first wine I tried, which was fresh and zesty. Worth seeking if the price is right. 90
Ch Ferran Rouge 2010
Quite a rumbustious, grippy style with plenty of stuffing. 90
Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2005
Beautiful wine with an array of exotic fruits with an overlay of sweet grapefruit. 93
Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2012
Another gorgeous wine, which is still quite tight but shows enormous promise. It is fresh and has a fabulous mouthfeel. 93
Ch. Haut Bailly 2012
Superb with tobacco, earth and berries overlaid with a terrific mineral freshness in a medium-bodied format. 92
Ch. Haut Bailly 2009
I am not one to resort to cant and jargon but I have to say this is shockingly brilliant. It is so easy to drink, and is medium to full bodied and exuberant but it has layered complexity as well as fine balance. I liked this more than the 2010. 97
Ch. Haut Bailly 2008
A toned down version of the 2009, really superb. 93
At the end I tasted some Sauternes and Barsac...the 2009s were brilliant, especially Suduiraut
On behalf of the BWE Brotherhood and Sisterhood I gave it my best shot. Some wines I missed out on because the greedy gannets had got there first. My notes are somewhat skimpy, but I am trying to convey impressions mainly.
A fair bit of confirmation bias here in the vintages: 2012 is a reasonable vintage, but 2008 is generally better. There is quite a big step up to 2005 and 2009, very different vintages. The 2005s are characterised by the density of their core, the 2009s by their exuberance. Both are great vintages. But 2008 and 2012 should not be overlooked either.
Margaux
Ch. Du Tertre 2012
Lively and fresh, very nice...90
Ch. Du Tertre 2009
This is extremely good, and most exuberant and approachable, really has everything...92
Ch. Giscours 2009
Similarly exuberant and luscious as DuTertre, Perhaps a little more reserved but with an added layer of mineral complexity...92
Ch. D'Issan 2012
Very good. 90
Ch. D'Issan 2009
Quite fat and exuberant. I asked Emanuel Cruse about the ABV. He said probably 12pointsomething. Then he looked and said actually 14%. Really delicious and not OTT. Only 50% new oak. 92
Ch. D'Issan 2008
A very nice wine. More restrained than the 2009 but a bit more stuffing than the 2012. Would be happy to have this in the cellar. 91
Ch. D'Issan 2005
Probably the pick of the four, and the most serious. It has a dense dark core. Very classy stuff. It was also Mon Cruse's pick. 93
Chateau Rauzan Segla 2005
Very suave and classy, also with a rich dense core and a long silky finish. 95
Chateau Rauzan Segla 2008
Quite a telling difference between the two vintages. The 2008 has a nice meatiness and chewiness on the mid, but lacks the concentration and power of the five. A very nice wine nonetheless. 91
St-Julien
Ch. Gloria 2012
Lovely chewy medium bodied claret and very approachable 2012
Ch. Gloria 2009
Excellent, rich and exuberant. 92 (sadly the 2008 was not shown)
Ch. Gloria 2005
In keeping where the vintage character less exuberant than the nine, but dense and serious. Excellent. 92
Ch. St-Pierre 2009
Similar to the Gloria only a tad more cassis and exuberance! 92
Ch. Branaire Ducru 2012
Very well made, medium bodied, already drinking well, and will age nicely. 91
Ch. Branaire Ducru 2005
This really has everything. This example was really singing, with a deep core of fruit and added mineral complexity. Already approachable it has a distinguished future. 95
Ch. Leoville Barton 2005
The only Leoville or Langoa I tried, given we tasted vertically in November and we are visiting in May. The 2005 Leoville was missing from the November line up, and it has the class of the 2004 and 2008 but with added density and power. It is approachable because the tannins are so suave, but it is clearly for the long haul. 95
Pauillac
Ch. Haut Batailley 2012
I found this a little but thin and rustic, notably by comparison of what came before. 87
Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2012
This was a significant improvement in class, but not really very exciting. 90
Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 2005
I think this wine has gone into its shell, and it tasted a little bit flat compared to some other 2005s. It does have the attributes to develop into a fine wine. 91 on the night, but will be sure to revisit and keep tabs on how this evolves. But right now give me Branaire, Rauzan or Leo B any day.
Ch. Pichon Lalande 2012
Near the top of the pile of 2012s, it has an easygoing charm and effortless class. 91/92
Ch. Pichon Lalande 2008
Similar to the 2012. Easygoing and classy. Nothing forced here. A wine with delightful ambience. 93.
Sadly the 2005 had gone by then.
Ch. Pichon Baron 2012
Equal top left bank 2012 I tried. Outstanding in the context of the vintage. 92
St-Estephe
Ch. Montrose 2012
A very similar wine to the Baron. Serious and outstanding for a 12. 92
All other wines had been hoovered by the gannets
Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2012
An accessible style, with some spices and minerals and a pleasure to drink. 91
Ch. Cos D'Estournel 2008
A little more serious on the mid-palate with Asian spices, a nicely judged and classy wine. 93
Sadly the 2005 and 2009 were long gone.
Ch. Calon Segur 2008
A brilliant effort. Really fine and elegant for Calon, fresh and long. One to own. 93
Ch. Phelan Segur 2005
An impressive showing, dense with dark fruits and a fine finish. 91
St-Emilion
Ch. Corbin Despagne 2012
A good, but fairly simple wine, which needs a bit of time. 87
Ch. Corbin Despagne 2009
Unconvincing, still needs more time. 88
Ch Trottevieille 2008
I rather liked this because it had a nice balancing freshness of a higher than average slug of Cabernet Franc (48%). S consistent theme. Still ripe and juicy. 91
Ch Clos Fourtet 2005
Some raved about this, I thought the merlot needed taming with more Cabernet Franc. While luscious and exuberant I found a tad too much heat. 89
I didn't visit the Canon stand because we are visiting there on May 19
Pomerol
Chateau Bearegard 2008
A nice fresh wine (has approx 35% CF). 89
Ch. Gazin 2012
Nice but I found this a tad green compared to some other Pomerols...(read on) 89
Ch. Gazin 2008
A bit more ripeness and density, but not exuberant. 91
Ch. Petit Village 2012
Lovely n plummy, tastes under-ripe next to the 2009 though. 89
Ch. Petit Village 2009
Riper, more luscious and sexier. Surprisingly selling at the same price as the 12. As Sean Connery would say 'shurely shome mishtake' 91
Ch. La Conseillante 2012
Different class and brilliant showing in the context of this vintage, with no hollowness, no greeness, just a seamless medium bodied delivery with some very classy mineral undertones. Comfortably the best 2012 on show. And arguably a bargain. 94
Ch. La Conseillante 2009
A little bit rounder, richer and more exuberant than the 12. Fabulous wine. 95
Ch. La Conseillante 2005
It was difficult to choose between these wines. The 2005 is going through a slightly broody phase, but is undoubtedly a very classy and serious wine for the long haul, again with mineral undertones. It still has plenty of grippy tannins. 95
Ch. L'Evangile 2009
Inky opaque with a ruby purple rim, indicating this is just a baby. It is an extraordinary full-bodied and rich wine, which still manages to be beautifully poised, and layered. It has berries, spices and flowers, a sumptuous mouthfeel and a glorious finish. 98
Pessac-Leognan
Ch. Ferran Blanc 2013
The first wine I tried, which was fresh and zesty. Worth seeking if the price is right. 90
Ch Ferran Rouge 2010
Quite a rumbustious, grippy style with plenty of stuffing. 90
Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2005
Beautiful wine with an array of exotic fruits with an overlay of sweet grapefruit. 93
Domaine De Chevalier Blanc 2012
Another gorgeous wine, which is still quite tight but shows enormous promise. It is fresh and has a fabulous mouthfeel. 93
Ch. Haut Bailly 2012
Superb with tobacco, earth and berries overlaid with a terrific mineral freshness in a medium-bodied format. 92
Ch. Haut Bailly 2009
I am not one to resort to cant and jargon but I have to say this is shockingly brilliant. It is so easy to drink, and is medium to full bodied and exuberant but it has layered complexity as well as fine balance. I liked this more than the 2010. 97
Ch. Haut Bailly 2008
A toned down version of the 2009, really superb. 93
At the end I tasted some Sauternes and Barsac...the 2009s were brilliant, especially Suduiraut