TN: 1988 Leoville Barton

[Claret]

1988 was the first vintage in which I purchased Bordeaux futures, albeit in small quantities. I have been a patient fan of this somewhat maligned vintage, and do not consider 1988 to be an "off vintage" as some proclaim. It suffers from being overshadowed by 1986, 1989 and 1990, and was never a lush upfront vintage. I am hoping that 1994 evolves in a similar fashion. Now two decades later the wines are entering their maturity zone and are bringing much pleasure to me as the tannins have softened and secondary notes are evident.

Their prices also preceeded the start of the ever growing record price escalation that began in 1989 with that vintage of the century, and finally peaked in 2005. This bottle was probably $18. Gotham liquors ran an ad in the NY Times shortly after release with loss leader pricing on some classified growths. I drove into Manhattan and bought 1988 Rausan Segla for $18, Mouton for $60 and Lafite for $50. I still have not opened any of these Big Boys yet.

Now onto the LB. I enjoyed a bottle with Arv at Lake Tahoe 3 years ago. This one had a low neck fill and was well stored. At first a heavy nose of cedarwood, more like a cedarchest than a cigar humidor. With some airing the cedar receded and the black fruit came forward along with a touch of St.Julien earth. The mouth enjoys a blast of dry black fruits, earth and acidity along with the softened but still present tannins. The finish is over one minute long and is even more impressive when considering the medium body. A very good mouthful that is wonderful now and into the near future. 92 points.

[JimHow]

Drank my case long ago. Great stuff!

[Otto Nieminen]

[...] do not consider 1988 to be an "off vintage" as some proclaim. It suffers from being overshadowed by 1986, 1989 and 1990, and was never a lush upfront vintage. I am hoping that 1994 evolves in a similar fashion.

1988 is perhaps my favourite vintage that I have any serious experience with: most are drinking beautifully now and they all seem to be in the elegant, understated style that I most appreciate. And yes, the LB is one that I absolutely adored when I had it 2-3 years ago. Thank you for the note!