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NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:24 am
by AlexR
Kind of short, but here it is: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/08/05/dinin ... ref=dining

If you mention white Bordeaux on Internet forums, you usually get a groan and whinging.
I don't think this is deserved, even though white Burgundy is frequently better - but also much more expensive.
And, like in this article, mention is primarily made of the élite wines of Pessac-Léognan, and not the other appellations that produce far more wine.

Like the journalist, I believe it was a mistake to create the Pessac-Léognan appellation.
And all the great growths remain "Crus Classés de Graves" - not Pessac-Léognan...

I think it was interesting to talk about the decanting of (old) white wines.
Recent experience has showed this to be beneficial.

Best regards,
Alex R.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 1:34 pm
by RDD
I love them myself.
And I can't recall ever having a premox issue with Bordeaux blanc.
Fieuzal has always been a favorite when I can locate it. And it seems to aged for a very long time.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:47 pm
by AKR
The only one I buy, in good vintages, is Clos Floridene blanc. It can age a long time.

These just generally aren't to my taste.

Out here, where CA whites don't have to cross the many layers of markup, one can drink pretty good local whites for cheap.

But I'm ok with big fat buttery oaky chards.

Thanks for posting the link.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:33 am
by dstgolf
I've enjoyed many great Bordeaux blanc but the ones that truly got me were the 1990 and 1999 Haut Brion. Amazing. I couldn't imagine white being any better but the price made it unrealistic so a short quest started. When we were at Malarctic Lagraviere in 2005 I thought their white was a step up and reasonably cheap. o
On return I started looking what was available and bought on points/description alone. A case of SHL blanc 2004 was 100% oxidized.Painful to bring bottle after bottle back to the LCBO. Chateau Brown 2004 same thing..whole case premoxed. 1999 Monbousquet on the other hand was delicious from first to last bottle. From this limited exposure I'm afrad that 2:3 cases of BB purchased premoxed didn't give me any confidence to continue my quest for a drinking mans version of Haut Brion.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:51 am
by Blanquito
I've had many terrific bottles of Carbonnieux blanc.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 1:03 pm
by RDD
Danny:
Wow a whole case of SHL. Sounds like it may have gotten mishandled somewhere down the line if you bought a recent vintage on release.
Such a waste.Sucks doesn't it.
I had a whole case of Remelurri like that once. Then it turned out that certain lots were spoiled.
The 1989 Beaucastel was like that too. 1/2 of the bottles brought in the country were bad.

You are really good at spotting off wines.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:25 am
by dstgolf
Rob,

I think in reality the wines were cooked. First 3/4 case all just seemed premox but last 3-4 bottles had that sherry/maderized taste that makes me think this was stuck in a truck/loading dock or boat somewhere cooking.

Had a very enjoyable 2013 Chateau Saint-Genes Bordeaux Blanc tonight that struck way above its pricepoint. clean,crisp with good fruit/acidity all for $15. Very New Zealand in style with touch of semillon giving a little extra. Maybe 2013 no damn good for reds but this white seems great.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:16 am
by Chateau Vin
I love white bordeaux and DDC is my perennial favorite. The top growth versions are out of reach for my pocket, but in a good year, I buy Secret de Grand Beteau for around 20 bucks. The white bordeaux is made by beycheville(?), the grapes sourced from the first growth (margaux or hb, I don't remember, but think margaux). The grapes are from young vines, but I really enjoyed every bit of the wines and the vintages I had, especially for around 20 bucks. Although not as complex as top growths, but IMO can easily outclass feuzal, carbonnieux, larrivet, etal...

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:32 am
by JimHow
White Bordeaux has never done much for me.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:08 am
by AKR
Its like this strange scam. People keep having me try all these fancy ones over the years, and I just keep thinking they aren't very interesting, young or old, rich or cheap.

Despite all that, I'm still laying down a few for the kids. I figure I will let them make their own choices about what kinds of wines they like, and perhaps something that is mature will help clarify it.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:03 pm
by DavidG
I loved the Haut Brion Blanc that Steve Hirshberg brought. Don't know if that ruined me for Bordeaux blanc in general or if the category just doesn't appeal to me, but I'm with Jim and Arv. Other than that one bottle, no love lost here for the type.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 5:20 pm
by Roel
Difficult subject for me. Most wines I like, not really love. When I tried Laville and HB Blanc, I knew this was different stuff. Wow! But when I sip a 50 Euro Meurault, I know where too dig deeper.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:35 am
by AlexR
A contrario: cheap white Burgundy is often terrible. Cheap white Bordeaux is much less expensive and, to my way of thinking, better.

That having been said, we agree: more emotion from fine white Burg.

Alex R.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:32 pm
by sdr
Does everyone prefer the flavor profile of chardonnay to that of sauvignon blanc/semillon?

Maybe if you grew up in the Loire or New Zealand you would like sauvignon/semillon better? Often, you like best what you know best.

The '89 HB blanc was one of the greatest white wines I have ever drunk. But contrary to legend, it does not last forever and I now find it OTH.

PremOx has affected numerous bottles of HBB, Laville HB and especially DdeC.

I agree with Alex that modest white Graves is often better (cleaner and more refreshing) than the white burg equivalent. But at the high end, I'll take white burg.

Who is buying new release HB blanc and LMHB blanc at $1000/bottle? I keep wondering how they can sell the stuff at way more than Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet or Roulot Perrieres.

Stuart

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:08 pm
by RDD
My preference is more food oriented.
Love seafood.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 12:21 am
by Harry C.
No one mentioned "Y" by Yquem. Expensive, but more reasonable than HB blanc or LMHB blanc, and delish.

Re: NY Times article on Bordeaux blanc

Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:04 pm
by DavidG
As a generalization, I prefer SB from the Loire to white Bordeaux. HBB is an obvious exception. There are probably others.