Pichon Lalande vertical
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:14 pm
On May 9 2015 I attended a Pichon Lalande "masterclass" in London hosted by Nicolas Glumineau the general manager of the estate.
Pichon Lalande typically has around 60% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, with 30% merlot and the rest Cabernet franc and petit Verdot, but it varies from vintage to vintage. While other neighbouring estates have moved to higher proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pichon Lalande wants to keep a significant proportion of merlot in the blend to preserve its distinctive more luscious style, and the merlot adapts well to the 'beautiful' clay at the estate.
The neighbouring estates are Latour and Leoville Lascases and Pichon Lalande straddles the Pauillac St Julien border but the great vintages are 'more Pauillac than St-Julien. NG says the estate aims for elegance and above all balance in the wines. Of the 89 hectare estate ten are given over to experimentation especially in organic and biodynamic techniques. In 2006 the estate was sold to Roederer. He said they are good friends with Pichon Baron but nevertheless competitors.
Reserve De La Comtesse 2010 - quite sweet, oaky and accessible. A good wine otherwise but not interesting. 88
Reserve De La Comtesse 2009 - also very sweet and over oaked, it lacks the balance and freshness of the 2010. 85
Pichon Lalande 2010. Now that's more like it. Huge gulf in glass between the GV and the second wine. Not at all closed down. Fresh, vibrant, sophisticated, multi-faceted, complex, cerebral and complete. Third time I have tried this. A great 2010. 96
Pichon Lalande 2009
Somewhat over oaked, over ripe, lacks the freshness and balance of the 2010, but is rich and long. A dead ringer for a Napa Cabernet merlot, as others have noted. Not a disaster but a disappointment in the context of the vintage, but it could redeem itself in ten years. For now 90
Pichon Lalande 2008
A fine attack of red and back fruits, graphite, minerals and iodine. On the palate it is very poised, sumptuous and tannins are very refined. The ripe merlot shines through, but it has fine balancing acidity. This is most accessible and has not closed down. A fabulous wine from start to finish with more gravitas than the 2009. A notable and great success in this overlooked vintage. 94
Pichon Lalande 2005
This is just beginning to come out of its shell. It is not an exuberant wine, but it has freshness and power and an inner density. Should develop well as it starts to take on tertiary characteristics. There are more profound 05s out there (including Pichon Baron), but this should provide a decent amount of pleasure over the coming 30 years. 93
Pichon Lalande 2004
This has a distinctive peppery nose thanks to the high proportion of petit Verdot (7%). It is also has graphite on the nose and is starting to drink well with some pleasing cedar and minerals notes to go along side the dark fruits in a more easy going style, and medium-bodied framework. It doesn't have the power and density of the 2005, but it is a better option for early mid term drinking. 91
Pichon Lalande 2003
This wine appears to be fully resolved. It does not show evidence of being cooked, and is quite pleasant. At the same time innocuous and simple. It is superficially attractive but leaves the taster intellectually unchallenged. A wine that is going nowhere. Avoid or drink up. 89
Pichon Lalande 2001
This wine has developed alluring woodsy spicey tertiary notes. This has a lot going on with herbs, minerals and underbrush on a dense and expansive mid palate and a very lovely finish too. Better than the 2004. 93
Pichon Lalande 1996
Wonderful aromas of cedar and perfume, with cool fruits and dense, fresh and racy on the palate. Cool, refined, sophisticated, complex, powerful, exotic, perfectly balanced, effortlessly classy wine. The best showing yet, but still scope to improve. 97
Pichon Lalande 1995
More exuberant nose than the 1996 and perfumed like Chanel No. 5; more cedar and graphite. On the palate it was more angular, edgy, sweaty and chewy and less seamless, but still a joy to drink. This nervosity and tension made it a thrilling wine to behold. 95
Pichon Lalande typically has around 60% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, with 30% merlot and the rest Cabernet franc and petit Verdot, but it varies from vintage to vintage. While other neighbouring estates have moved to higher proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pichon Lalande wants to keep a significant proportion of merlot in the blend to preserve its distinctive more luscious style, and the merlot adapts well to the 'beautiful' clay at the estate.
The neighbouring estates are Latour and Leoville Lascases and Pichon Lalande straddles the Pauillac St Julien border but the great vintages are 'more Pauillac than St-Julien. NG says the estate aims for elegance and above all balance in the wines. Of the 89 hectare estate ten are given over to experimentation especially in organic and biodynamic techniques. In 2006 the estate was sold to Roederer. He said they are good friends with Pichon Baron but nevertheless competitors.
Reserve De La Comtesse 2010 - quite sweet, oaky and accessible. A good wine otherwise but not interesting. 88
Reserve De La Comtesse 2009 - also very sweet and over oaked, it lacks the balance and freshness of the 2010. 85
Pichon Lalande 2010. Now that's more like it. Huge gulf in glass between the GV and the second wine. Not at all closed down. Fresh, vibrant, sophisticated, multi-faceted, complex, cerebral and complete. Third time I have tried this. A great 2010. 96
Pichon Lalande 2009
Somewhat over oaked, over ripe, lacks the freshness and balance of the 2010, but is rich and long. A dead ringer for a Napa Cabernet merlot, as others have noted. Not a disaster but a disappointment in the context of the vintage, but it could redeem itself in ten years. For now 90
Pichon Lalande 2008
A fine attack of red and back fruits, graphite, minerals and iodine. On the palate it is very poised, sumptuous and tannins are very refined. The ripe merlot shines through, but it has fine balancing acidity. This is most accessible and has not closed down. A fabulous wine from start to finish with more gravitas than the 2009. A notable and great success in this overlooked vintage. 94
Pichon Lalande 2005
This is just beginning to come out of its shell. It is not an exuberant wine, but it has freshness and power and an inner density. Should develop well as it starts to take on tertiary characteristics. There are more profound 05s out there (including Pichon Baron), but this should provide a decent amount of pleasure over the coming 30 years. 93
Pichon Lalande 2004
This has a distinctive peppery nose thanks to the high proportion of petit Verdot (7%). It is also has graphite on the nose and is starting to drink well with some pleasing cedar and minerals notes to go along side the dark fruits in a more easy going style, and medium-bodied framework. It doesn't have the power and density of the 2005, but it is a better option for early mid term drinking. 91
Pichon Lalande 2003
This wine appears to be fully resolved. It does not show evidence of being cooked, and is quite pleasant. At the same time innocuous and simple. It is superficially attractive but leaves the taster intellectually unchallenged. A wine that is going nowhere. Avoid or drink up. 89
Pichon Lalande 2001
This wine has developed alluring woodsy spicey tertiary notes. This has a lot going on with herbs, minerals and underbrush on a dense and expansive mid palate and a very lovely finish too. Better than the 2004. 93
Pichon Lalande 1996
Wonderful aromas of cedar and perfume, with cool fruits and dense, fresh and racy on the palate. Cool, refined, sophisticated, complex, powerful, exotic, perfectly balanced, effortlessly classy wine. The best showing yet, but still scope to improve. 97
Pichon Lalande 1995
More exuberant nose than the 1996 and perfumed like Chanel No. 5; more cedar and graphite. On the palate it was more angular, edgy, sweaty and chewy and less seamless, but still a joy to drink. This nervosity and tension made it a thrilling wine to behold. 95