Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

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AlexR
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Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AlexR »

When I first arrived in Bordeaux, the word going round was that Fronsac was the up-and-coming wine region, and was headed for great things. However, this never really materialized. Then a similar buzz was heard about Castillon. I must admit to feeling there is more potential for the latter appellation, not only because it’s so much bigger (2,300 hectares compared to just over 1,000 for Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac), but because the wines are more appealing to the general public.

Although "Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux" is not exactly a household name, it has long been a treasure trove of good-value Bordeaux beloved of connoisseurs. Historically, the appellation was known as “près-Saint-Emilionais”, and the geographical proximity with Saint-Emilion is unquestionably reflected in the wines. Let’s be clear: a good Castillon is better than a ho-hum Saint-Emilion, and has a much lower price tag to boot.

In fact, Castillon is where to bring people who moan that Bordeaux is too expensive or Burgundy lovers with blinders on. This is where you can find worthwhile wines for as little as 7 or 8 euros a bottle and truly delicious ones for not much more. And I’m talking about really good wine here.

Bordeaux has Portes Ouvertes (“Open Days”) in most major appellations. These are marvellous opportunities for anyone who’s interested in visiting châteaux, meeting the winegrower, sampling the wine, and either buying or not as one sees fit. Absolutely no pressure is brought to bear. The Portes Ouvertes in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux took place on Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th of September. The number of participating estates was relatively limited (17), but included a good cross-section of the appellation.

I went there on Sunday with an American friend, author, and fellow blogger, Tom Mullen: http://vinoexpressions.com/about-wine-and-work/
We visited 7 châteaux and had a wine lunch at Château Pitray. Here’s a brief rundown of the experience, which I can strongly recommend.

Our day started off with Château La Fleur Poncet in Gardegan-et-Tourtirac, where we were greeted by Madame Elisabeth Rousseau-Rodriguez, Vice-President of the Castillon winegrowers association, and her husband. This 10-hectare estate, in the family for the past two centuries, is located 7 km from Saint-Emilion and within sight of Château Michel de Montaigne in the neighboring Bergerac appellation. The predominately Merlot grapes were in excellent condition and had already reached a potential alcoholic degree of 13.5° on the 6th of September! So things were looking very good – as opposed to 2013 when a hail storm virtually wiped out the entire crop… The estate makes two wines, the regular cuvée and Mon anGe, an anagram of her children’s names. The latter is 100% Merlot, made from 35 year-old vines, and aged in new oak. My favorite wine was the 2010 La Rose Poncet.

The next stop was Château Bellevue in Belvès-de-Castillon. This 12.5 hectare estate is owned by the Lydoire family. They have a higher-than-than usual percentage of Cabernet Franc: 25%. We tasted their quaffable 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur and interesting 2012 vieilles vignes from Castillon, as well as the unusual 2011 Cémacuvée, made in a successful ripe, oaky, modern style.

The last stop before lunch, one of the best of the day, was at Château Lapeyronie in Gardegan-et-Tourtirac. When we arrived, we were somewhat surprised to see three gendarmes in the cellar and I quipped that, honestly, I had spat everything out so far! I don’t think the same could be said of them… Furthermore, they were from Burgundy, whose wines were obviously much better than ours . Anyway, we were welcomed by Hélène Thibaut, a professor of viticulture and oenology and partner of Jean-Frédéric Lapeyronie. He looks after the vines, and she’s in charge of the cellars. The 2012s we tasted were among the best all day, and the prices quite reasonable. Several nice surprises were in store for us. One was an excellent Côtes de Francs with a nice tannic texture to round out the fleshiness of the Merlot – the best Francs I can ever remember tasting. The other was an exceedingly rare 100% Carménère. This is sold as vin de table français, presumably because it is considered a secondary rather than a primary grape variety. Not only rare, the wine also happens to be quite enjoyable with a peppery bouquet – quite the wine to baffle someone at a blind tasting! And as if this weren’t enough, Lapeyronie also makes a wine with zero sulfur, a so-called natural wine. Despite my scepticism, I had to admit it was good, and commend the estate for branching out and doing unusual things.

Lunch was an outdoor affair open to the general public on the beautiful grounds of Château Pitray. Several hundred people attended and, fortunately, the weather cooperated. We skipped the tasting part of the event and sat down to enjoy the inevitable grilled entrecote steak with a sturdy 2009 Cuvée Madame from Pitray (aged in new oak) and a previously enjoyed 2012 unsulfured Château Lapeyronie.

After lunch, we met with Madame Françoise Lannoye, President of the Castillon winegrowers association and owner of Ch. Moulin de la Clotte. The affable Mme Lannoye, who speaks very good English, talked to us about the appellation. She feels that joining forces with the other Côtes de Bordeaux (Bourg opted out) for promotional and marketing efforts was the right move.

Furthermore, she explained that Castillon benefits greatly from tourism. The battle ending the Hundred Years’ war was fought here, when the forces of King Charles VII of France defeated John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury (yes, who gave his name to Château Talbot in Saint Julien), thus ending three centuries of English rule over the Aquitaine region.
A much-acclaimed re-enactment of the battle is held throughout the summer: http://www.bdc-server.com/index_UK.html
There are also a number of medieval castles in the region and a Maison du Vin in Castillon (population 3,000) – whose full name is Castillon-la-Bataille
http://www.castillonlabataille.fr/le-vi ... -bordeaux/
Madame Lannoye said that Castillon is sold mostly in France, but also exported to Belgium, England, and Japan. She also places hope in the US market. When you see the value for money these wines represent, they should do really well in America. However, there is somewhat of an image problem: not a bad image, but rather a lack of image altogether. The Côtes group are working on this as much as their budget allows.

We visited three more châteaux after lunch. Most of these were in “hop, skip, and taste” mode.

The first of these was Clos Védélago. A roofer by trade, Jean-Paul Védélago bought 2.5 hectares vines in 2004. He brings grapes from two of those hectares to the cooperative in Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion. The remainder (exactly 0.47 hectares!) are in the Castillon appellation. These are used to make a luscious 100% Merlot wine. We tasted through 5 vintages (2010 to 2014). The ones I liked most were the 2014 and 2012. His wines have received medals and been cited as Coups de Cœur (“special favorites”) in the Guide Hachette.

We then went on to Château Château Les Fleurs de Trentin in Sainte Colombe, who grow their grapes organically. We enjoyed their 2012, what the French call a vin plaisir, i.e. an up-front, seductive, easy-drinking wine. The 2009 Cuvée Nathanoé was a little rustic, but showed a strong personality. We tasted the estate’s cuvee prestige in the 2008 and 2009 vintages, much preferring the former.

Our final visit of the day was to Château Fontbaude in Saint-Magne-de-Castillon. We arrived to see Christian sitting in the shade of a large tree behind a table with several bottles, in a beautiful and infinitely calm setting. We tasted the 2014 Pélerin de Fontbaude, a delight to drink young, followed by the 2010 Fontbaude and the 2012 cuvée vieilles vignes. The star of the show was 2011 l’Ame de Fontbaude a rich, fruity wine with a sinewy, silky texture, great aromatics, and some fine spicy nuances.

Thus ended our day in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux.

AR
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DavidG
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by DavidG »

I always enjoy your day-trip reports, Alex, even if we don't get the wines here. Love the local color. Makes me wish I were there.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by stefan »

Great story, Alex. I am sorry that it is so hard to explore Castillon wines here.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

I've had some Pitray before, but that was a long time ago. Some of the NYC merchants make some efforts to bring in these smaller, lesser known places.

Cap de Faugeres is more broadly available, but its pricing is more like its pricier neighbors. I remember buying those for $8 or $9 back in the 90's!

Great trip report.

My 00 Marsau from the Cote de Franc's continue to drink really well. Some of the smaller estates are making wines that can age a little. Canon Fronsac and Fronsac definitely have some with that strength. I'm thinking I've had a few 20 year old Mazeris that surprised.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AlohaArtakaHoundsong »

Just finished off the last of a case of the 2000 Clos Puy Arnaud about a month ago. Excellent young and held up well over fourteen years.

I take it Count Neipperg's Ch. d'Aiguilhe was not open? His 2004 is drinking very well now.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by Nicklasss »

It is true that the Côtes de Castillon wines are better than ever, and the AOC is shining since a few years. But at the same time, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac are also producing their best wines, and why they don't get the same "aura"?

Ithink the only reason, it is because the rich known owners/producers (Thienpont, Magrez, Von Neipperg, Perse, etc...) all produce a Côtes de Castillon and/or Côtes de Francs. Unfortunately, Fronsadais don't havemarketing advantages due to rich owner... More little family driven I guess. Maybe not all true, but like Cindy Lauper's song: Money changes everything...

Nic
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by Nicklasss »

Lately, I order a 2005 Bordeaux Supérieur, produced by Chateau des Annerreaux in Lalande-de-Pomerol. Do you know that producer AlexR, as you're fond to Lalande?

Nic
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AlexR »

Nic,
I don’t think Fronsac has quite lived up to its promise because the wines have a reputation for being a little hard and also, as I mentioned, because it’s also a fairly small appellation, which works against widespread distribution.
Castillon, because of its historic significance, and its proximity to both Saint Emilion and the Dordogne (where many English and Dutch have moved) has more international recognition.
I do think that Castillon is a more generous easy-going wine but, of course, that is just a generalization.

As for the Bx. Sup. from the Les Annnereaux, that would be L'Ane Mort. A very good value wine that is a Lalande in all but name (just over the appellation border).
Les Annereaux is quite a large estate for Lalande (25 hectares).
The wine is not one of the most exciting, but it is decent and good value for money.

AR
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by Blanquito »

Nice write-up, Alex. Like others, I've not heard of most of these wines.

For my money, I think the best "petite" Right Banker I've had is Roc de Cambes from Côtes de Bourg. The 1990 and 2000 in particular were stellar. Of course, the prices this can fetch are much higher than the less heralded Righties.

After Roc de Cambes, I think La Vieille Cure has impressed me the most. Haut Carles has been excellent at times as well. All of these received attention from Parker, which helped widen their distribution no doubt.

That could be a subtheme of this thread, your favorite petite Right Banker.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

Roc de Cambes basically costs what a St Em. does nowadays. Still have an 00 left.

I do think it was a shade better younger though.

Given the fixed costs of shipping to the US, and the need for many beaks to get wet in the 3 layer distribution process, it seems like its hard for these smaller wines to get a fair shake 3000-6000 miles away.

At least within California, there are some direct imports. One has to believe in the merchant though.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by DavidG »

There are direct importers on the East Coast. Macarthur's in DC is one, and they get a number of the less-expensive wines every year. I think Total Wine does this as well. Arv you are spot on with the comment about believing in the merchant. I'm more likely to enjoy a wine recommended by one of the guys at Macarthur than Total Wine.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

I'd forgotten that Macarthurs does that. They also have unique access to a number of estates. Shipping from them doesn't appear to be excessive to maybe I should rekindle that relationship. After moving West, I haven't gotten anything from them. Have reconnected the Zachys thing.

It really is amazing now though how much good wine is easily available.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AlexR »

Arv,

You wrote "It really is amazing now though how much good wine is easily available".

And what's crazy is that the prices are frequently no more than in the region of production.
And the further you move up the quality scale, the more likely this is to be true..

Alex R.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

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It's one reason why I don't particularly care what the Latour's of the world do with their distribution model.

It's just immaterial to me.

I'm not even sure it will work either. Leoville Las Cases has reputedly been sitting on huge stocks of their wine for years.

Trying to reap the market price appreciation for themselves, rather than letting middlemen or end customers "enjoy" it.

But that means an entire generation of consumers doesn't get to try the wines, and presumably build up affection for them.

I cannot think of other producers of agricultural commodities, with a new crop every year to sell, who do this.

Even the de Beers diamond cartel has been caught flat footed with their supply constraint strategy, and was forced to offer a 9% price cut this year.

All of that makes it easy to explore the wines of these satellite regions.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by RDD »

AKR wrote:
I cannot think of other producers of agricultural commodities, with a new crop every year to sell, who do this.
Bourbon. Louis XIII Cognac. Scotch
Cotton/wool/coffee/sugar/corn/grain are traded on the commodities market. The cycle may not be as long, but people been going long/short for a while.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

The whole point of that futures (for grains etc.) is that its a way for the farmers and consumers (like General Mills et al) to get rid of some of the price risk involved.

Are the distilled spirits guys actually growing their own corn/wheat etc.? or do they just buy it in the market place as they need?

Some producers like Jack Daniels are making exponentially more liquor today than they were a generation ago, so that suggests they are a branded product that can ramp up/down as needed. Maybe that's different than a specific patch of grapes turned into wine.

And to be clear what I'm referring to is the practice of some estates bottling up production and storing it, to be released a hundred cases at a time through their own trusted merchants. Or perhaps directly to auction.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by RDD »

That is one point of futures
People speculate all the time and make or loose fortunes.
LLC can speculate all they want.
It is after all their product. And they store it properly and thus have impeccable provenance.

Finally, oil (or olive oil/ corn oil/ soybean oil) may be a better comparison.
We have stock piles of crude oil.
But the bottom is soon to fall out.

My only point is there are many commodities that are played with to create artificial markets.
Not just wine.

Clean water is next.

C'est la vie.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

LLC (and Latour) seem to think that they will earn some excess returns from holding their inventory back.

Presumably some rate of return on the capital sacrificed to do so.

But in fact I like your olive oil analogy - does olive oil that is held for "maturing" earn a return?

One gets a new crop constantly. I've not heard of people making money in this.

What's the economic intuition of why wine should (or must) go up in price?

Is it some play on the general habit of whoever is the global elite at any moment to celebrate their arrival, by purchasing lots of fine wine?

It's actually interesting to watch the response of the Saudis, who are faced with a similar problem: do they store the product (not pump it) or do they sell it, and redeploy those assets into new ones? The Saudis seem to fear a world where carbon will be priced (whether that happens in the next decade or century) and don't want to be stuck with a whole bunch of 'wealth' that was never monetized. So they pump with abandon, converting their oil in the ground, into financial assets in their banks & brokers.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by RDD »

Interesting topics.

I've heard the Saudi's will not allow Iran to make money if their oil comes to market.
And they can afford to pump and sell at very low prices for a good ten years.

Balsamic vinegar is a another commodity played with.
Wonder if honey could be prized commodity with the pressures on bees.

Personally, when I see futures for some estates at 1000.00/btl I wonder who buys this and more importantly drinks it.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by RDD »

Did anyone see 60 Minute recently?
http://www.cbsnews.com/news/60-minutes- ... ood-fraud/
They reported on the Italian mob selling crap olive oil as extra virgin olive oil.
It's not just wine that attracts crooks.

Made me think of this thread.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

2005 d'Aiguille Querre [Cotes de Castillon] natural cork, garnet color, lots of sediment!  Still delicious and holding up well despite being almost old enough to vote.  Lots of plummy fruit, spice box and some orange potpourri here.
2005 d'Aiguille Querre [Cotes de Castillon] natural cork, garnet color, lots of sediment! Still delicious and holding up well despite being almost old enough to vote. Lots of plummy fruit, spice box and some orange potpourri here.
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Re: Day out in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Post by AKR »

2016 Hyot [Cotes de Castillon] 13.5% abv.  A gift from acquaintances some years ago, which has been sitting at room temp, and finally opened.  Costco Import.  Soft, loose and fruity.  Low/no tannin, and tastes almost 'detuned' to me, as if the earth/scorch/structure of Bordeaux had been suppressed to make a more forgiving, less typical style.  It's ok, and likely should have been drunk earlier, and treated better.  I'm guessing my care didn't help here.  I guess I'd slot this into the B or B- zone.  The cork was soaked about 1/3 through, surprising for something so young, and considering I have 20-25 year corks that look pristine.
2016 Hyot [Cotes de Castillon] 13.5% abv. A gift from acquaintances some years ago, which has been sitting at room temp, and finally opened. Costco Import. Soft, loose and fruity. Low/no tannin, and tastes almost 'detuned' to me, as if the earth/scorch/structure of Bordeaux had been suppressed to make a more forgiving, less typical style. It's ok, and likely should have been drunk earlier, and treated better. I'm guessing my care didn't help here. I guess I'd slot this into the B or B- zone. The cork was soaked about 1/3 through, surprising for something so young, and considering I have 20-25 year corks that look pristine.
PS: on day 2, more strawberry notes emerge, but it really is a commercial cafe quaffer style. But some props to MISA (Costco's captive importer) for shipping this over. Probably was an $8 wine, but one would have to spend more for something of the same interest in California.

PPS: I mentioned Jack Daniels, upthread, and years ago, but recently watched a documentary on their production methods and is worth the 22 min on Disney+. (Look for the Made in a Day series) The making of Tennesse sour mash / Bourbon and all that is a repeatable factory process, with some charm attached (like how the charcoal is still prepared by the same two guys, for all 30mm cases sold each year). It makes me even more baffled by the idea that collectors are now assembling investment grade whiskey portfolios. Ok maybe Old No. 7 is not the focus of those, but seeing the vast spectrum of barrels aging, doesn't suggest that much scarcity to me.
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