Another bites the (barrel toast) dust: Domaine de Chevalier

[Blanquito]

Reposting this from a thread on another board-- it seems like we should discuss here. Has DDC changed?...

The cover page of Gilmans' latest issue includes: "A Nostalgic Look Back at Domaine de Chevalier- Once One Of the Graves’ Greats."

I haven't read the article yet (and it may not be out still), but on the board Gilman said, "I know that readers like it when I name names, so to mention just a few properties that were “go to” producers for value in the 1980s and now are not worthy buying at any price, I would mention a few such as Pape Clément, Domaine de Chevalier, Leoville-Poyferré and Poujeaux."

I haven't had many but the great DDC rouge I've tried from the 60s and 70s were magical wines in an ethereal and smokey style that only a great Graves can/could do. Has anyone tried more recent vintages circa 2005 when Parker starting giving it 95 pts instead of 88-90? I really hope it's not following in Pape Clement's modernist footsteps.

[dstgolf]

Blanquito,

Last DDC that I had was at a 2006 tasting back in 2010 and what I do remember was how good it was in comparison to the dozens of others it was being compared to. Yes modern style but balance was key and it was very memorable. Thought wine of the night were Cos/LLC tied and close third Pichon Baron but DDC not far behind.Certainly no complaints with 2006 DDC but not one that I have in my cellar and I'm not sure why because I haven't had a bad bottle yet although my experience since 2000 is limited.

[Comte Flaneur]

Patrick

The newer DDCs dressed in a new dressage/assemblage - especially les rouges - are definitely more modern but I don't think there has been an enormous 'step change' like you saw most vividly at Pavie or to a lesser - but still profound - extent at Pape Clement...the 1996 DDC rouge Is reassuringly old school.

How I am much less excited by DDC these days than SHL and Haut-Bailly

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

I can't compare them to the glory days but I have drunk the 2003 and 2006, and I think I have the 2008 but do not recall drinking one, curiously. Regardless the 03 and 06 I would describe as weighty and dense. The 06 seemed backward but the 03 was highly enjoyable immediately (or say around 2009 maybe) and more recently. So tossing out 03 as an artifact of the vintage what remains is "weighty" and I'm sure that's one characteristic that people would tend to attribute to the modern style.

Not castigating anybody or anything but DDC would seem like a perfect PE or LBO candidate. Solid rep, nice terroir, somewhat under the radar, lagging price. Lever her up, get a few quarters of points growth under your belt and voila you can now sell for $100 instead of $40-$50.

[AKR]

Maybe I'm the outlier, but of the 5-10 vintages of their rouge over the decades, going back to maybe random years in the 70's.....I never thought it was anything special.

Obviously wouldn't spit it out or anything but at the same time wouldn't make efforts to ship it cross country or anything if I found an interesting year or value.

Less experience with their white, and don't care for white Graves pretty much no matter what.

I probably still have DdC rouges hiding under stuff, so I guess maybe I should revisit one.

The graves I really love is Carmes Haut Brion. Tons of cabernet franc. Probably just as much as Figeac. Very distinctive. Worth trying in any year.

[greatbxfreak]

Gilman is a provocateur as always.....

I guess he never have had a white Chevalier, which imho is in the top three of dry white wines in Bordeaux. It seems strange to me that some posters here don't value white Chevalier as deserved. To taste 1985 vintage of it, fresh, no premox, this is impressive and great stuff.

Chevalier changed consulting oenologist for red wine in 2002 to a famous one, Stephane Derenencourt. Denis Dubordieu still consults for white version.

[Blanquito]

Chevalier changed consulting oenologist for red wine in 2002 to a famous one, Stephane Derenencourt...

That's right when Parker's scores took off...

[AKR]

Hmmm maybe I might like the modern ones then.

[Blanquito]

A move to a modern style isn't necessarily a bad thing (to paraphrase Jay Miller discussing ripeness). In my experience, it is always a matter of degree of course. Very traditional wines can suffer from excessive rusticity/austerity, especially in weaker vintages and a little modern wine making can really help such wineries if it doesn't go too far. I hope/hoped that this is what DDC had done, but Gilman made me wonder.

I have one main issue with modern wine making-- the jury is still out (perhaps), but in my experience, modern techniques increase the hedonism and year-to-year consistency of a wine at the expense of its potential complexity and personality. I have a strong preference against new oak, I am more tolerant of high alcohol and high fruit.

DDC rouge was no model of consistency in the past, but the '64, '66, 70, '78, and '79 are all pretty magical for my tastes (the '78 is the only one I've had multiple times, and it is a rustic beauty with an old-school soul), though they lean towards the light and bright end of things. They have plenty of delicate, spice-scented red fruit, but the role of the fruit is secondary or even tertiary in prominence. So, some might prefer the new style if the ethereal/subtle, high acid (for Bordeaux), highly aromatic, sneaky-depth approach to claret doesn't do it for you.

I think I need to try one a DDC rouge from the new regime. I have a half bottle of the 2009, I will try it this weekend and report.

P.S. I have only had it a few times, but I think the DDC Blanc is sensational and expensive. I am a big fan of dry white Bordeaux in general.

[Blanquito]

So I drank a half bottle of the 2009 DDC rouge last night, here are my impressions...

Young and primary, tasting of grapes, licorice and tar. Distant whiffs of coconut indicate subtle, high-end oak. The palate is dark and tangy, and seems well balanced despite the opulence of the vintage overall. The fruit is almost cool and the alcohol level is appropriate. Good fleshy midpalate and a nice finish, showing a lot of merlot right now.

The texture and tannins (which are very soft and subtle for a young claret) have a spit polished feel, which gives this a semi-slick, modern vibe. Gets deeper, better with air. This is a good wine, still too young but approachable now. Very well-made and sleek, you can tell how competent the wine makers are, what it lacks is a sense of place or terroir. There is little Graves character right now and blind I'm not sure I would think Bordeaux either. Still, this strikes me as modern Bordeaux done right and I'd love it if you told me it was a Cali blend. Give this 10 years and hope that more character develops in the cellar; then it could be something really good...

As you can see, I was ambivalent about this wine but liked it overall. I'd call it mid-modern and the oak regimen was quite evenhanded. However, it one loved the old style of this Chateau, they would be really let-down by this. DDC hasn't sold it soul, but it has had a serious makeover.