TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

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DavidG
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TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

Peggy and I have been working way too hard lately so we decided to treat ourselves to an evening out at a new restaurant in Baltimore, the Magdalena. The atmosphere, food and service were all outstanding. Great bread and a turnip soup with a chorizo kicker for an amuse bouche started us off. Killer apps of mixed wild mushrooms with pear and steak tartare with bone marrow, and then entrees of a superb strip steak accompanied by a short rib ravioli and lamb chops with merguez sausage and sautéed onions were great matches for the Lynch Bages. The onion prep was a touch sweet to my taste but all else was perfection. A pear tarte tatin and a creme brûlée were superb with the Yquem. Corkage was a not-modest but very acceptable $35/bottle. Glassware was vey good and the staff was into wine. Apparently Bob Parker has made this a haunt for wine lunches. I can see why.

The notes:
  • 1988 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (10/24/2015)
    Cellared since release. Perfect cork and fill to within 1/2" of cork. Decanted off sediment and enjoyed over 2 1/2 hours. Dark red core, lighter at rim. Immediately forward complex nose of mature black fruits, cassis, cedar and leather. With the first sip, Peggy immediately remembered our BWE Lynch Bages tasting in NYC years ago. BWE reminiscences ensued. Medium body, nice balance, tannins present but well integrated, mature fruits carry forward to palate with some mineral undertones and sweet complexity. Medium to long mellow impish maintaining balance and complexity throughout. In no danger of going over the hill. Outstanding.
  • 1997 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (10/24/2015)
    Perfect cork and fill. Light gold color. Apricots, peaches, honey on the nose, full-bodied and viscous, great balance between ripe fruits, honeyed/floral sweetness and acidity, long finish. Should drink well for years. Excellent-outstanding. We drank only half of it and brought the rest home for tomorrow.
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stefan
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by stefan »

Two great wines, David. '88 Lynch was kinda passed over because of the superior '89 and '90, but it is outstanding and classically styled.
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Nicklasss
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by Nicklasss »

Nice report David. Happy to know you had a good time in the new restaurant. I also liked a lot the 1988 Chateau Lynch Bages in the past, preferring it to some other vintages like 1985, 1986 and 1990. But it is a matter of style or bottle provenance I guess.

Enjoying Yquem is always a special moment. Unfortunaly, price rised way too much first me since the 2001 vintage.

Nic
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JimHow
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by JimHow »

I was just reading this interesting article on the death of California:

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/25/opini ... ght-region

I wonder whether, because of climate change, we will never see another vintage like 1988?
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

I left California in 1983 because it felt too crowded. Well, LA and San Francisco and San Diego, the places I would have wanted to live at the time if there had only been more room.

I don't know if global warming or decisions by winegrowers/winemakers or both are most responsible, but we don't seem to be getting classics like 1988 any more.
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Blanquito
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by Blanquito »

Thanks for the nice notes, David. Count me as another fan of the 88 Lynch Bagels (as my iphone tries to spell it). I had it side by side with the 85, and I much preferred the 88.

In terms of vintage styles, one thing that has really changed are the tannins. The firm, ironesque tannins of the 75, 86, 88, and even the 94 and 95 vintages, seem to be a thing of the past in Bordeaux. What recent vintage as pulled this off? Maybe some of the 2000s? Nothing since then in my experience.

I actually like such firm, hard tannins in a claret if the wine is mature and there is enough richness to go along with the structure (as in 86 and 88 for the best wines... seems like the 95s are headed this way as well). It gives the wine a real grip, a gravitas, a rustic charm, it's a great red meat style. It puts hair on your chest, there's something medieval about it, Quentin Tarantino would approve.

Of course, this means cellaring the wine for 20+ years and as Arv pointed out, that business model may be a thing of the past. It just makes these older wines all the more precious.
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AKR
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by AKR »

JimHow wrote:I was just reading this interesting article on the death of California:

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/25/opini ... ght-region

I wonder whether, because of climate change, we will never see another vintage like 1988?
The lack of water/rain/snow has made skiing here just disastrous. That has been the biggest disappointment of returning here.

I personally have never cared much for SF/Bay area life, nor LA/OC life so actually quite like the central valley...80-100 miles from the mountains and very reasonable costs of living.

The local wines (Lodi, El Dorado Hills etc.) are heavy, ponderous hot Zinfandel/Petit Sirah types of things. Maybe a taste is ok, but to me, its like eating heavy barbecue as opposed to roast beef, with a pinch of salt and pepper.

Maybe 2014 is a vintage sort of like 1988? I thought it was described as an Atlantic styled one?
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

Patrick, I'm with you on those stern tannins, the blood and iron and subtle fruit that doesn't really blossom for decades. I'm sure I don't know how modern vintages will turn out at age 20. They aren't starting from the same place, but I'm hoping they develop at least some of that magic.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Thanks for the notes David. I have a keen interest in 1997 D'Yquem.

The 1988 Lynch like the 1983 Lynch is surely one of the finest - and under-rated - Lynches.
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

Ian, the remaining half-bottle of 1997 Yquem was even better the next evening, after spending a day in the fridge. Richer, fuller-bodied and more complex, with a longer finish than the night before. Easily outstanding, a notch above excellent in my book. I don't typically assign points, but if pressed it was a 95 pointer or more. I think it is still getting better and is likely to outlive me. Whatever your particular interest in this wine, you will be richly rewarded on opening them.
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JimHow
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by JimHow »

I enjoyed it when I had it with Tom, Gail, and Winona Chief in Maine.
It was full bodied and rich but, in retrospect, I wonder if it may have lacked a bit of a "wow" factor.
The 2011 d'Yquem we had in France had that wow factor for me.
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

Jim I would have agreed with you based on the night we opened it: excellent but missing the wow of the best Yquems. Twenty-four hours later, the fireworks were on display.
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by Comte Flaneur »

DavidG wrote:Ian, the remaining half-bottle of 1997 Yquem was even better the next evening, after spending a day in the fridge. Richer, fuller-bodied and more complex, with a longer finish than the night before. Easily outstanding, a notch above excellent in my book. I don't typically assign points, but if pressed it was a 95 pointer or more. I think it is still getting better and is likely to outlive me. Whatever your particular interest in this wine, you will be richly rewarded on opening them.
David - Yquem is my daughter's middle name and she was born in 1997. She has a case and so do I. Thanks for the extra note...seems like it is evolving well!
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by JimHow »

I believe you that it evolved well. It has major stuffing, it reminded me of the 1986 d'Yquem. I gave it 97 points.
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Blanquito
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by Blanquito »

I wonder how the 96 Yquem is doing? Ian and I both got a few half bottles for $110/each 4-5 years ago from JJBuckley, my only Yquem.
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

I don't have any of the '96 Yquem. This is what Parker had to say about it in 2003, when he rated it 95:
Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality. There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. However, patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060.

Note: Yquem spends 42 months in 100% new oak. No cask tasting is permitted, and the wine is not released until 5 years after the vintage. For example, the 1998 will be released some time in 2003; the 2001 will not be released until 2006.
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dstgolf
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by dstgolf »

Great notes David and brings back memories. I must admit that when I have the opportunity I love a great Sauterne and there is no better than Yquem. Two problems that I have is that it has become silly expensive and beyond a glass or two I lose the wow factor. Normally we've already consumed one or more bottles of red with dinner and Sauterne has never been anything more than a dessert wine for us. I remeber back to Rick Julien's day when Kathy's favourite wine was Yquem and she'd drink it with everything. Rick sold me on the concept that it paired very well with butter poached lobster but I've never seen sweet wines as a mainstay at our table. A split for the two of us usually doesn't get finished the same night and certainly the full bottles even at a dinner party don't usually get completely emptied. I'm not sure why as I love Sauterne but it never fails that by the time it gets opened we are usually so satisfied with the meal/wines that we've consumed that the Sauterne is usually lost on us. I haven't bought any since the 2003s and doubt that I will going forward with the infrequency of pulling these out. Still have a 750 of 67 du Fargues along with a few others that should make a convention trip some day.

97 Yquem is pretty cool for a middle Ian and at least the wine should bring pleasure for many years to come!!
Danny
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RDD
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by RDD »

Hi Danny:
I usually reserve a full bottle for a party of four.
Appetizer in the beginning and then desert.
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dstgolf
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by dstgolf »

Agree Rob. Foie gras app is magic with Sauturnes. Definite synergy where the sum is greater than the parts. Personally we're getting lazier entertaining less at home and going out to dinner with friends more often taking an opportunity away to pull out a cellared bottle. Not saying that we have eliminated Sauturnes from our repitoire it has just become an increasing rarity to be at home with company. Even going out to our BYOBs we usually bring red/white/champagne and the stickies get left out.
Danny
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by DavidG »

I hear you Danny. It takes some planning to open a Sauternes. Rob has the right idea, but we often forget or the appetizer isn't a good match for Sauternes. We have to limit the amount of wine with the dinner so there's some room left at the end.

One saving grace I've found with Sauternes is that they often improve after 1,2, or even 3 days in the refrigerator. And not just baby wines, either. The 18-yo 1997 we just had was better on day 2. So you don't have to drink it all at one sitting.

Bottom line for us is that we're not buying much any more. I just sprang for a couple of bottles of 2001 Yquem. That will probably be it for a good while.
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RDD
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Re: TN: Dinner at Magdalena in Baltimore with 1988 Lynch Bages and 1997 Yquem

Post by RDD »

I like planning a nice dinner with friends.
I "forced" friend to an upcoming bday dinner.
We've known each other 35 years.
Let's go to dinner at least once.
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