Cos D'Estournel tasting

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Comte Flaneur
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Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Comte Flaneur »

I attended a Decanter Masterclass vertical of Chateau Cos D'Estournel in London's Landmark hotel today hosted by their business manager Dimitri Augenblick. 

We started out with two 'Les Pagodes de Cos' the 2011 and the 2012, and they spin you the usual crock of shit that 'zis is not a second wine' and we put as much passion into this as the GV, which of course is hogwash. The Pagodes is made from vines which are 5-15 years old, and the 2011 and 2012 were approximately 65% cab-sav and most of the rest merlot. The 2011 was utterly unready and numbingly prosaic. The 2012 was slightly more interesting, although is not an adjective that sits at all comfortably with the wine - you could sup on this while you were filing your nails or picking hairs out of your nose. As second wines go this is a Wildebeest. 

Thankfully we moved on to the utterly intriguing 1975 grand vin which initially seemed to be somewhat oxidised but picked itself up by its bootstraps and turned out to be a fascinating wine. The initially oxidative notes morphed into one of celery salt with hints of bovril. On the palate it became really interesting with exotic spices and mushrooms in a medium bodied format and a smooth albeit not particularly long finish. It had alluring minerally notes with fossils and sea shells. Thrilling wine. And reassuringly old school. 

Next up the 1986, which was also quite old school but of course much thicker and denser. It still has a youngish hue and still sports puckering tannins. It is a big strapping, wine with an expansive finish. Based on this example, it still needs more time. A bit of a brute, it would go very well with roast beef for example. It was a hypothetical cross between the 1975 and the next wine the 1996. 

The 1996 was characterised by an inky entry and red berries, with alluring notes of spices and peppers. It didn't quite have the brute power of the 1986 but really was a class act and a complete wine. It just got better and better. In my opinion this could use a few more years, but the consensus was that it is drinking beautifully now. Another fabulous 1996. 

The 2002 upped the new oak, and it showed on the nose. Less well-endowed than the 1996 the style by now had become overtly modern. The nose was sweet, and I think that reflected the oak. It was a shame we had neither the 2001 or the 2003, which the Greco-German Frenchie was raving about (if ever there was a reason for us Brits to stay in the European Union this was perhaps it). The 2002 was competent, though not interesting. 

The ultra-modern ultra-sleek 2005 was a wine which ticked every box with plenty to spare. You sip it lean, back, twiddle the stem and marvel at it. An opaque colour with a chocolate box, candy store of delights, very full bodied and concentrated with a lot of power, this is less recognisably Bordeaux and more Napa-like. But it did have an alluring peppery spiciness, so its parkerisation was not complete. By 2009 however it was.

The 2006 was toned down, had nice floral, smoky, minty, chalky and gamey notes but was also thoroughly modern. The 2010 was thoroughly modern and monolithic, and shut down. When we asked whether the wines had been parkerised we received a pretty convoluted answer. The answer was confirmed after tasting the Montrose 2006 and 2009 later in the next tasting. Both great wines, neither parkerised. 

We finished with the Cos 2012 and 2013 whites a blend of roughly 70% Sauvignon balance and 30 % semillon, from grapes sourced further up the Medoc. The 2012 was very lovely but these wines are ambitiously priced at around £40-50 a bottle. 
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DavidG
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by DavidG »

Nice report Ian. Any thoughts on the 1995 or 2003?
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dstgolf
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by dstgolf »

Ian,

Loved the update. Cos has certainly changed like many over the last 20 years. Modernization has taken hold. Have been working through a case of the 2000 and maybe it was a little over hyped but certainly still maintaining its roots and not getting the Parker effect to the extent that I first really noticed in 2005-2008 which I've had and certainly enjoyed but much more of everything...fruit/extraction/oak/alcohol. Can't say that I hate the change but I wouldn't recognize the old from the new. Difficult to trash a chateau that I've had a thing for since 86.

Ian have you tried the 2004 Montrose? I'm sitting on 6 and not sure if it's time to try??
Danny
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AKR
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by AKR »

A thought on young vines:

Sometime at the cusp of the 70's / 80's, my father planted a bunch of grape vines in a pocket of our home.

For years the harvest would be put out on the table - they were hard, tart, unpleasant berries.

I might have sampled one or two every year just to confirm that I couldn't stand them.

Our various dogs were the only ones who would genuinely eat them, but they weren't especially discriminating, being equally enthusiastic about eating rat poison, cat poop, loofah brushes etc.

Now 30+ years later, I saw some grapes on my mothers table.

And the kids were chomping away at them, with no knowledge of the history of those grapes.

So I tasted a few.

And now they are actually ripe, and good.

But of course they are no longer young vines.

When people say that a second wine gets all the same treatment as the grand vin, that's not enough.

It seems to take some time for the roots to dig deep.

Anyways great notes on the Cos
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Comte Flaneur »

David

Dimitri was raving about the 2003 not least because he claimed it does not suffer from jammy-ness, inflicting other 2003s further down the Medoc. He portrayed it as a spectacular wine which is drinking well now, and will last well. I have only tried it once, and in a sample. I was v impressed by it. I also drank a bottle of 2003 Pagodes a few years ago, which started off well but then became a bit turgid. The 1996 Pagodes tried at the same time was much fresher. But he made the point that the best 2003s were made in St-Estephe. He was also enthusing about the 1995, which I have not tried recently. On the 2009 it sounds like a monster by the way he described it and he said it is totally shut down. I just know it would not be up my alley.

Danny

I tried 2004 Montrose a little while ago, and it really was a class act and approachable. I tried the 2006 yesterday and it was also very good, and surprisingly accessible. I liked it a lot more than the Cos. I also tried the 2009 Montrose which showed stunningly well. So given that you have six 2004s I would stand one up on death row!
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JimHow
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by JimHow »

I'm a big fan of the 2006 Montrose, I think it warrants the HWSRN95 score.
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Blanquito
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Blanquito »

The 86 and 90 Cos are amongst the best wines I've had. Shame it's gone all modern.

I had the 08 Montrose on release... nothing modern there. Indeed, it was more medieval than modern!
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Nicklasss
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Nicklasss »

I like the Cos d'Estournel I tasted up to now. Maybe the 2002 was a bit weird, but the 2001-1996-1995-1986 were all excellent, even gorgeous. The 1986 need lot of air, but à very complex and complete wine.

For the 1996, how many years to wait? I have 3 bottles I plan to open on my 50th birthday, in 9 years. Is that ok? Or should I go for it at my 45th?

Nic
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stefan
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by stefan »

The '96 Cos is excellent, Nic, but still young. In nine years it should be outstanding.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Nic why don't you pop one on your 45th and leave the remaining two for you 50th.

Has anyone tried the 1995?

I have decided that my favourite vintage of Cos is 1989. I have had it twice. It really shone at out 1989 extravaganza in NY in 2009, and it was even better last year. But I think the 1980s was arguably this estate's strongest decade. Similar to Pichon Lalande and Gruaud Larose.

Patrick I like your description of the 2008 Montrose. Sounds like my kind of wine.
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Blanquito
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Blanquito »

I purchased a bottle of the 89 Cos last year based on your notes, Ian. Opened it in August and it was corked. So I opened an 86 to make up for it, and it was corked. My Cos mojo is clearly off.
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Nicklasss
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by Nicklasss »

Ian, when I bought these 3 bottles, I always plan to open the three bottle at the same birthday dinner, with many guests. And i'll keep that crazy plan.

A friend opened a bottle of the 1996 for my birthday last year, and with air, I thought it was very excellent. But the 1986 the same night, with air, was complex and super.

Last summer, a 1995 that Jim brought to Old Orchard Beach was excellent, but that night, the 2000 Lynch Bages was even better.

Nic
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JimHow
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Re: Cos D'Estournel tasting

Post by JimHow »

I was surprised at how evolved that 95 Cos was in Maine Nicolas.
The 2000 Lynch definitely shined that night.
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