TNs: Belated notes (big time)

[Michael Malinoski]

For a whole bunch of reasons, I've managed to fall desperatey behind (to the tune of about 7 months) in posting my tasting notes, but I'm going to try to make an effort to catch up to some degree over the next few months. So, apologies for the time delay on these.

Andy was the host for one of our poker games, and he put together a nice set of wine flights to go with his outstanding cuisine from the kitchen. Each flight was served blind, and we were told that one wine in each flight was “not like the others”.

Flight 1:

NV Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs. This is pleasingly airy and refined on the nose, with good energy and youthful vigor to the aromas of powdered chalk, lime, minerals and herbs. In the mouth, it’s taut and dry, with pleasing flavors of toast, lemon, apple and dark grapefruit that are bright and zesty, with a ticklish acidity. It’s not quite as precise on the finish, but overall this is a very inviting, clean and bright sparkler that’s quite enjoyable to sip right now.

NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. This bottle had a good deal of bottle age on it, and unfortunately I think it shows in the moderately advanced aromas of dried cherries, lemon tea and a sort of flat note of copper penny on the nose. In the mouth, it’s rounded and fairly vinous in feel, with thick flavors of caramel, lime, dried cherry, browned apple and dark pear that are dry-edged and a bit austere at the back end. It’s winey and smooth, but the flavors feel a bit past peak at this stage.

2004 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage Brut Anderson Valley. This is still a little coiled on the nose, showing some gentle aromas of apple, chalk, lemon rind and light yeast. It’s much more outgoing on the palate, where it really pops with super-vibrant, tangy flavors of apple, bursting citrus notes and light herbs. It’s clean, lifted, fresh and driven, showing nicely at the moment.

Flight 2:

2006 Soter Pinot Noir Beacon Hill Yamhill-Carlton. The first red wine of the day presents an extremely woodsy, earthy nose full of aromas of sassafras, grape stems, birch, menthol, brown toasted spices and mushroom to go with candied cherry and huckleberry fruit tones. On the palate, it has a pithy, toothy texture that carries along flavors of wild blueberries and blackberries, woodsy spices and foresty earth. It’s got some interesting facets to it, keeps its alcohol in check, and seems to generally be in a good spot for drinking.

2006 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast. While I didn’t especially care for the nose on the previous wine, I really adore the bouquet found on this wine. It is creamy, gently sexy, beautifully fruited and full of fine spices—showing off aromas of warm cherry paste, licorice rope, raspberry jam, coffee grounds, sawn wood and a bit of tar. It’s even better to taste--delivering minty, spice-infused flavors of cherry paste and creamed raspberries that feel pure, giving and delicious. This is a winner all around, and one of my favorite wines of the day.

2002 Henri Rebourseau Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru. This is more contained aromatically, but pretty nicely done on the whole—giving off quiet but continually improving aromas of graphite, smoke, bark, pencil shavings, cherries and raspberries that have a quiet allure. It’s a bit higher in acidity on the palate than the previous two wines, with some drying tannin slipping through, but otherwise I find it to have plenty of slinky red currant, cherry and dark raspberry stuffing. It could use a bit more layering and more resolution, but it has solid fruit concentration and promising drive. I just think it needs another 4-5 years to come fully into its own.

Flight 3:

1996 Château Cantenac-Brown Margaux. This wine is a bit paler in color than its flight-mates. It puts forth a very nice bouquet that’s fun and a bit funky—with aromas of black currant, plum, spiced blueberry, cedar, menthol leaf, browned tobacco, mushroom, charred earth, spices and toasted oak that taken together make for a very inviting package. In the mouth, it’s full of red currant and chewy black cherry flavors, with some charred wood notes in the background. It has solid but non-intrusive structure, refined tannins and a lithe but easy-going texture. I find it engaging and very nicely done overall—one of my favorite wines on the day.

1996 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Napa Valley. This is more sexified on the nose, yet dark and serious in a way—giving off smoldering aromas of incense, fruitcake, plums, dark cherries, spiced blueberries and vanilla-tinged oak. In the mouth, it’s slinky, slick, polished and smooth, with high glycerin levels and a fine, slippery flow to the dark and sweet-toned flavors of black currants, black raspberries and toast. It drinks pretty effortlessly, and is thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish.

1996 Beaulieu Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve Napa Valley. This smells like classic, sort of old-styled California Cabernet right from the get-go—featuring aromas of red currants, cherries, leather, tobacco and a bit of toasted earth. In the mouth, it’s smooth and pliant, with more of a red-fruited personality--with cherry, raspberry and red currant fruit flavors that are focused and fine, yet expand out nicely throughout the mouth. There are some nice leafy bits hovering in the background, too, rounding out what is a very pleasant Cabernet with plenty of personality and warmth.

After-hours flight:

2011 Proprieta Sperino Coste della Sesia Uvaggio. The nose here is full of cracked peppercorn, rubber and charred earth scents to go along with a lot of wild berry and cherry notes. It’s a bit prickly, and not all that friendly to my way of thinking. I find it a bit more engaging on the palate, though, where sticky flavors of cherry paste and raspberry licorice combine with a fine funk streak. There’s still a fair bit of tannin to contend with, so don’t be afraid to hold a bit longer.

2012 Wait Cellars Pinot Noir Devoto Garden Vineyard Green Valley. This pale ruby-colored wine presents youthful aromas of cranberry, cherry, rhubarb, menthol, oak, wild herbs and fireplace ash. It’s clean, direct, fresh and pleasing on the palate, with light body and airy but sappy-textured red fruit that ought to flesh out with a bit more time in bottle.

2000 Chateau Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve had this vintage of Beaucastel on several occasions, and this was the funkiest and meatiest bottle I can ever recall smelling--with compelling aromas of horsehair, charred leather, tobacco leaf, black cherry, blackberry and toasted orange peel showing tremendous layering and overall character. In the mouth, it’s cool, dark-fruited and loaded with intense flavors of blackberry, leather and earth. There’s a whole lot of stuffing to it, although it’s not all that tannic or big-boned. I’m used to this vintage being a bit more svelte and Burgundian, but this is just good old-fashioned Beaucastel, which is delicious and rewarding all around.

1991 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Napa Valley. This is bold, rich and outgoing on the nose, with loads of plum, blueberry, black currant, vanilla bean, charcoal and fun wood spice aromas pouring forth and pulling the taster right in. It’s equally excellent in the mouth, where it’s rich, creamy, full-bodied and voluminous, full of lush blueberry and blackberry fruit flavors that have heady overtones and a lot of life left to give. It’s outstanding, with no signs of letting up.

1983 Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese Mosel Saar Ruwer. This is succulent and healthy on the nose, showing aromas of spiced peaches, apricots, lavender, wild honey and butterscotch. It’s clean and modestly acidic on the palate, with round flavors of peach, star fruit, marmalade and apple juice atop some slate notes. It’s a nice, refreshing wine with little puffs of funk giving it a little extra character I enjoy.


-Michael

[Claret]

It is always nice to see your notes Michael.