2000 Haut Bages Libéral

[AlexR]

There’s a saying going back many years that "Lynch Bages is the poor man’s Mouton", although the former’s rise in quality – and price – make this a little less true nowadays…
Some witty person later added: "… and Haut Bages Libéral is the poor man’s Lynch Bages"!

Half of Haut Bages Libéral borders on Château Latour and the other half is just behind Château Pichon Baron. From the 1960s until the early 80s, this thirty-hectare 5th growth Pauillac was owned by the Cruse family, and then acquired by the Villars family. Claire Villars Lurton is now at the helm.

We all know about the year 2000 and the speculative fever it induced. I have always liked the wines, but do not agree with people who think the great growths need "decades to age". On the contrary, my experience has showed that sixteen years down the line many of them are well within their drinking window. So, wondering what wine to serve with a leg of New Zealand lamb I decided to open a bottle of Haut Bages Libéral, which has the reputation of being a reliable if unexciting wine.

Well, I must say I was underwhelmed. The color looked older than its years. The nose was really very muted, but if you looked hard you could discern cherry, briar, humus, graphite, and cigar box aromas. The wine had a thin oily mouth feel and a wimpish aftertaste. I’m all for subtlety, but not to the point where this is the shadow of what a great growth Pauillac in a good year should be. This 2000 Haut Bages Libéral would unquestionably have been better years ago to all but the most hard-bitten adepts of old tertiary Bordeaux. And even they would be disappointed with this wine.

I’ve tasted more recent vintages of Haut Bages Libéral and think the estate is on the upswing. However, as a consumer, I will make sure to drink mine on the young side from now on.

Alex R.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

The 2005 is still a tightly wound, medium-medium bodied wine with cooler, high-pitched fruits. For sure it was one of the outliers in contrast to many 2005s, which were "packed and stacked" and drinkable for the "baby fat" early on. So perhaps this tends to confirm your note on the 2000.

[DavidG]

Sorry to hear this was past its prime. Doesn't sound very appealing even to an old Bordeaux lover like me. Hope you don't have a pile of them in the cellar Alex.

[AlexR]

David,

Most of my cellar (going on 85-90%) icconsists of single bottles.

When you taste a wine like this, you are glad of that.

Of course, when you taste a wine that's simply wonderful, that's it, you don't have another one... .

Alex

[AKR]

I've been instructed to clear out some freezer space.

Our lamb is supposedly arriving any day.

Some friends are ranchers and we buy some luckless animal from them each year.

It is difficult for them to compete with the Australian/NZ producers though.

Bordeaux will be on call when we first sample this.