Prior to posting my notes on 2015 Bordeaux great growths

[AlexR]

I took 4 days off from work this month to taste 2015 Bordeaux great growths. This was a fantastic experience and despite living in Bordeaux for many years, I still find it thrilling.

The experience is as much about people as wine: meeting château owners, technical directors, etc., as well as members of the wine trade from all over the world.

The organization of en primeur tastings is quite incredible. Hats off to the Union des Grands Crus for receiving hordes of professionals and even providing everyone with gourmet lunches at famous estates. The system in Bordeaux is well and truly unique in the world of wine. It also creates a lot of jealousy, especially since the price increases at the most famous estates since 2005…

The whole en primeur system is presently being called into question. This is because older wines from fine vintages can often be found at the same or even lower prices than futures. This has left consumers bewildered or even bitter. They ask themselves “What’s the point”? This has led to much naysaying, as well as predictions that “the bubble will burst” and that the great growths will be brought to their knees. Color me sceptical on that count… I have seen this happen only once in my (considerably long) lifetime, in the 1970s. However, I do not think it will occur again now.

For a start, it is well-known that exports to China declined significantly in 2013/14. However, word does not seem to have spread that the 2015 figures were up by 31% in volume and 25% in value. China’s interest in Bordeaux is here to stay. The market has become more mature and the Chinese are buying more intelligently. But they are still buying. Massively. And they remain Bordeaux’s number one export market.

You have only to see the wry smiles on the faces of winegrowers when asked “What vintage does this remind you of?” or “Do you think that this is more of a Left Bank or a Right Bank vintage?”. So many people don’t seem to understand the sheer size and complexity of Bordeaux, and the fact that making generalizations is like walking on eggs. Still, in this age of “Wine for Dummies” pronouncements will be made. But not by me!

There is an urban myth that samples are doctored to make them more flattering to journalists, critics, and major buyers. In fact, this is not totally false. Several château owners freely admitted that the wines we were tasting were blended to give a better idea of what the wine will be like down the road. And that they were not the actual final blend at the present time. This is only worrying to the extent that one places blind faith in how representative such young wines are, or should be…
In the past, the en primeur tastings were spread over a 3-month period. Now they take place very early and in a short time span. And, as we all know, leading critics give numerical scores at this early date – ones that have a huge effect on the market. One can disagree with the very premises of scoring systems, but they are inevitable. People like to quantify things that cannot be quantified, and be made to feel secure. So be it.

I will be posting my (non-numerical) notes, for what they’re worth, in the near future.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Nicklasss]

Always interested in your comments AlexR. Wine is very subjective so putting number is more a fun thing to pass time, than really serious. Wine is made to be be enjoyed and drink. Your palate is unique and at the end, there are two questions that fix everything, without numbers: did you liked the wine? Would you drink it again?

Of course, many have turned wines into values, so number help to make believe that the wine artificially worth 1000 $ a bottle...

I will also be interested in your feeling for 2015, vs other recent good/excellent/ great vintages.

Nic

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

How do you blend a wine so it tastes more like it will later? I'd practice that at home if I knew the secret.

[Blanquito]

How do you blend a wine so it tastes more like it will later? I'd practice that at home if I knew the secret.

[AKR]

Probably go easier on the petit verdot, and add more merlot. Ought to make more approachable for the tasting.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

I have no doubt they pick the best-tasting lots at the moment to blend. I wash my car before I post it for sale on Craigslist.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

To quote the late, great HWSRN, Bordeaux en primeur, c'est mort.

[JimHow]

I'm 57. If I get to 75 the 2015s will be… um… 19 years old? I think my math's right. Ok. This is it… 2015 will be my LAST vintage that I buy in any meaningful quantity…..

[DavidG]

Nice intro Alex. I enjoyed reading it and am looking forward to your notes. Even though I am done buying young Bordeaux...

I'm 57. If I get to 75 the 2015s will be… um… 19 years old? I think my math's right. Ok. This is it… 2015 will be my LAST vintage that I buy in any meaningful quantity…..

How many times have I said that? When 2005s were offered, but only half-heartedly. Then with the 2006s and 2008s, but only three-quarter-heartedly. My left ventricle wasn't committed. Then 2009 was for sure my last vintage. Then 2010. Then you enabling devils went to Bordeaux and got me to buy 2012s. FOR SURE MY LAST VINTAGE! But what's this? A few 2014 futures? OK, but only one or two.

By gum, I am not buying ANY 2015s. No way. No how. No HOW. That means you, Jim HOW. You and your merry band of BWE enablers. I am a rock. I will not waver.

[JimHow]

David… David my son… Just one more vintage. One more vintage….

[JimHow]

I will say, though, I don't think you are going to go wrong with a few 2012Rs in your cellar. I'm really liking the character of this vintage and I think the wines are going to offer a lot of enjoyment at relatively young ages.

[DavidG]

I have no regrets about the 2012s in the cellar. If I'd been with you at MacArthurs 2 weeks ago, no doubt I'd have a bunch of 2002s down there too.

[Nicklasss]

I'm 57. If I get to 75 the 2015s will be… um… 19 years old? I think my math's right. Ok. This is it… 2015 will be my LAST vintage that I buy in any meaningful quantity…..

This is the most ridiculous thing I read in the last 20 years! Compared to that, what Trump says seem fair.

JimHow, I will (for the first time) be rough with you: you're a smoker, and red Bordeaux are your cigarettes. You won't stop buying, until you quit smoking!

Sorry dude.

Nic

[JimHow]

Sigh… You are a wise man, Jean-Nicolas Maltais.

[Nicklasss]

And wisely, I have to admit I"'m a smoker too!

Nic

[JimHow]

We have a great criminal defense trial lawyer in town, George Hess his name is, he's about 78 now, but sharp as a tack, a tall, handsome man, full of piss and vinegar, he works about 60 hours a week defending poor people. Absolutely loves his job. He says he wants to die at the end of a criminal trial, just as the jury foreperson is returning a verdict of "Not…" I don't want to linger. Give me a bite of a whoopee pie, a sip of '89 Lynch, and send me off to that great tasting room in the sky….

[Antoine]

So when are Alex notes going to come? You know you have fans waiting impatiently!

[AlexR]

Antoine,

You are too kind .

In fact, the first batch is already up here: www.bordeauxwineblog.
These cover Haut-Médoc, Moulis, and Listrac.

Unfortunately, I am having a little trouble in WordPress getting the photos the right size, but what counts, after all, is the text.

All the best,
Alex

[dstgolf]

Alex,

Great start. Stefan might be disappointed with your La Lagune comments. Interested in La Tour Carnet only to check it out for future fish pairings. Cantemerle may deserve a look price dependant. Looking forward to next installment