Annual Bordeaux lunch in London
Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 12:35 am
Every month here in London there is a themed-lunch at a restaurant in Chiswick called La Trompette. It is quite a long way west out of London but highly recommended if you visit. Today the theme was Bordeaux.
On our table we started with a 2008 Lassalle 'Cuvée Angeline' - no not Jolie....a champagne with 60% pinot noir....nevertheless feminine and light on its feet.
Unfortunately both bottles of Smith-Haut Lafitte Blanc (1985 and 1988) were well past their best and tasted a bit dilute, albeit still pleasant.
On to the reds:
Flight A
D'Issan 1983
A wine which is approaching the end of its drinking window with an orange hue and earth, berries, spice...lavender?...rusty nails, floral aromas and a satisfying finish. Lovely but drink up. 90
Palmer 1995
It has a classic Palmer nose of berries and cigar box and a bit of brett initially, which blew off. On the palate it is a still bit of a bruiser and remains quite stern and tannic but in a chewy, exhilarating kind of way. Gosh this has taken ages to come round, but it is finally entering its drinking window. This is not destined to be a great Palmer, but nevertheless delighted to have some in the old cellar. 92
Beychevelle 1995
This was added by mistake but was nevertheless a welcome addition. Classic St-Julien, albeit with a much higher-than-normal for the appellation dose of merlot in the blend (about 40%) giving it a plummy precociousness, which means it tends to be more approachable than other highbrow 1995 St-Js. Lovely cedar, cigar box, lead pencil entry, smooth palate, nicely resolved and satisfying, it falls away a little bit on the back end, however. 91
Flight B
Pichon Lalande 1989
Quite a shy nose, and a wine with a reserved personality - unusual for this estate. But it is all there lurking beneath the surface. And some. This is such a complete and brilliant wine, with a luxurious palate, silky tannins, subtle spices and a glorious finish. This could develop into a legendary Pichon-Lalande. This for me just edged the Lynch-Bages for wine of the day. 96
Lynch-Bages 1985
A great bottle, with exuberant Lynch-Bages lead pencil, and alluring earthy notes leading into a beautifully resolved palate and finish. A wine at the top of its game and a great and legendary Lynch-Bages. On the last two occasions I have tried this it has showed brilliantly, on the previous ten or so more mixed. 95
Grand Puy Ducasse 1985
This was the surprise package of the tasting, which held its own in a mighty flight. It was just a beautifully resolved effortless wine with classic Pauillac pencil lead, cedar, cassis and berries notes. A delightful wine. 93
La Mission Haut-Brion 1979
The best bottles are smokey, gravelly and sublime. This bottle was more subdued than sublime, and austere with dark, smokey earthy tones, gravelly notes and a fairly curmudgeonly personality. Surprisingly it came fourth in this flight, but still a wine to savour. 92
With dessert:
Rieussec 1983
This was a fantastic bottle with a beautifully bright light copper hue (notably lighter than 1983 D'Yquem). Complex palate of creme brûlée, honey, apricots. 95
It was a good lunch.
On our table we started with a 2008 Lassalle 'Cuvée Angeline' - no not Jolie....a champagne with 60% pinot noir....nevertheless feminine and light on its feet.
Unfortunately both bottles of Smith-Haut Lafitte Blanc (1985 and 1988) were well past their best and tasted a bit dilute, albeit still pleasant.
On to the reds:
Flight A
D'Issan 1983
A wine which is approaching the end of its drinking window with an orange hue and earth, berries, spice...lavender?...rusty nails, floral aromas and a satisfying finish. Lovely but drink up. 90
Palmer 1995
It has a classic Palmer nose of berries and cigar box and a bit of brett initially, which blew off. On the palate it is a still bit of a bruiser and remains quite stern and tannic but in a chewy, exhilarating kind of way. Gosh this has taken ages to come round, but it is finally entering its drinking window. This is not destined to be a great Palmer, but nevertheless delighted to have some in the old cellar. 92
Beychevelle 1995
This was added by mistake but was nevertheless a welcome addition. Classic St-Julien, albeit with a much higher-than-normal for the appellation dose of merlot in the blend (about 40%) giving it a plummy precociousness, which means it tends to be more approachable than other highbrow 1995 St-Js. Lovely cedar, cigar box, lead pencil entry, smooth palate, nicely resolved and satisfying, it falls away a little bit on the back end, however. 91
Flight B
Pichon Lalande 1989
Quite a shy nose, and a wine with a reserved personality - unusual for this estate. But it is all there lurking beneath the surface. And some. This is such a complete and brilliant wine, with a luxurious palate, silky tannins, subtle spices and a glorious finish. This could develop into a legendary Pichon-Lalande. This for me just edged the Lynch-Bages for wine of the day. 96
Lynch-Bages 1985
A great bottle, with exuberant Lynch-Bages lead pencil, and alluring earthy notes leading into a beautifully resolved palate and finish. A wine at the top of its game and a great and legendary Lynch-Bages. On the last two occasions I have tried this it has showed brilliantly, on the previous ten or so more mixed. 95
Grand Puy Ducasse 1985
This was the surprise package of the tasting, which held its own in a mighty flight. It was just a beautifully resolved effortless wine with classic Pauillac pencil lead, cedar, cassis and berries notes. A delightful wine. 93
La Mission Haut-Brion 1979
The best bottles are smokey, gravelly and sublime. This bottle was more subdued than sublime, and austere with dark, smokey earthy tones, gravelly notes and a fairly curmudgeonly personality. Surprisingly it came fourth in this flight, but still a wine to savour. 92
With dessert:
Rieussec 1983
This was a fantastic bottle with a beautifully bright light copper hue (notably lighter than 1983 D'Yquem). Complex palate of creme brûlée, honey, apricots. 95
It was a good lunch.