Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts

When we were in Bordeaux as the guest of Alex over Easter I picked up a bottle of Ch Magdelaine 2011 to try ITNOS. Well the scientific experiment started tonight.

Difficult to drink initially but this has all the ingredients to be a classic Magdelaine. It has pure delineated fruit, wonderful precision and freshness, allied to alluring rocky mineral notes and no oaky extracted spoofiness. The taste is more metallic than wooden.

Given that this has been subsumed into a new - lamentably lower-yielding version of the previously unique old school Magdelaine and Belair estates - this could become a collectors item.

Interestingly according to NM 2015 was the first year that Belair-Monange started to become recognisable compared to what it used to be. Swings and roundabouts?

Sad to see it go, but such are the commercial realities of high priced vineyard land.

Rarely can we have wines operated with little regard for the value of the assets being deployed, and even then, eventually French death duties will come into play.

Such a shame. This has become one of my favorite Bordeaux. Glad to hear the 2011 is a worthy finale. Too bad it's $65 here.

The only Chateau Magdelaine I had was the 1995, around 2005 or 2006. It was also a strict, old style, Saint-Émilion. But in those rough tannins, very dark fruity edges, dark terroir tones, there was a true traditionnal vine growing and winemaking style.

Nic

Comte Flaneur,

Neal Martin explains that Edouard son of Christian Moueix has moved in Belair several years ago and has been overseeing extensive work at Belair in connection with acquisition of Magdelaine. It's known that Magdelaine was about to be declassified by the latest classification, but somehow it succeeded to be merged with Belair by the owners. Belair Monange has terroir similar to Ausone.

Btw, I hear more and more crazy details about how the latest classification was carried out in Saint-Emilion - apparently employés at several properties in Saint-Emilion did the paperwork for the classification committe, checking if other properties (rivals) complied with the demands? Neutral staff??

Yes Neal delivered a positive spin about what is happening there. It is the age old question. To what extent does investment in 'state of the art' facilities, lowering yields etc, make the wine better and to what extent does it make them lose their character/become more internationalised/homogeneous?

His point about the 2015 Belair-Monange was interesting. My take on that comment was that the previous several vintages - from when? - probably don't have a lot of character, hence interest, and therefore are an easy pass...a classic case where the market price overshot the mark because the price really jumped...perhaps based on the view that the Belair terroir is on a par with that of Ausone.

This is what critics are for. Judgements like these. Like the Westminster parliamentary system. The alternative is Swiss-style direct democracy, which is of course a lot better but we all have to invest a lot more time and responsibility.

A lone half bottle in the cellar...

Comte Flaneur wrote:Yes Neal delivered a positive spin about what is happening there. It is the age old question. To what extent does investment in 'state of the art' facilities, lowering yields etc, make the wine better and to what extent does it make them lose their character/become more internationalised/homogeneous?

His point about the 2015 Belair-Monange was interesting. My take on that comment was that the previous several vintages - from when? - probably don't have a lot of character, hence interest, and therefore are an easy pass...a classic case where the market price overshot the mark because the price really jumped...perhaps based on the view that the Belair terroir is on a par with that of Ausone.

This is what critics are for. Judgements like these. Like the Westminster parliamentary system. The alternative is Swiss-style direct democracy, which is of course a lot better but we all have to invest a lot more time and responsibility.

Well there is a form of alternative direct democracy: Look at the secondary market trading for various vintages, where consumers "vote" with their dollars.

I've seen (old) Belair available for $25 at times. That is a huge cue as to what the market thought about its real place in the firmament of St Emilion.

And despite all the rocks people throw at Silver Oak, it still seems to cycle through steakhouses at triple digit numbers.

Interestingly despite the lower scores given to Figeac during some years, it seemed like that it always had a bid from consumers who either didn't care about that, or just liked it anyways. e.g. I had an American/Swiss friend who loved Figeac and l'Arrosee who didn't care about vintages or reviews or anything and pretty much only bought those two. (He also loved Cadillacs....)

Gilman, who is a self-described lover of Magdelaine and endangered species everywhere, went gaga for the 98 Magdelaine going to like 96 pts, though he cautioned it needs beaucoup time.

JimHow wrote:A lone half bottle in the cellar...

Impressive racking systems. I've got figure out something along those lines.

Jim, looks like you've got a lot of spare room in your cellar!