Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

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Comte Flaneur
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Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Who's that?

He's Audouzing it!

Image
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AlexR
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by AlexR »

Hope you enjoy.

Sure wish I was there!!!

Alex
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JimHow
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by JimHow »

Baby doll.

Awesome pictures, Ian, thanks for posting them.
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stefan
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by stefan »

Oooh. Looks really good!
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AKR
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by AKR »

Comte Flaneur wrote:Who's that?

He's Audouzing it!

Image
It so nice that people have a come up with a way to remember Francois.
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Blanquito
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Blanquito »

What vintage is that bottle? Or should I say century?
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RDD
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by RDD »

Let us know how they are.
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tim
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by tim »

Francois is doing just fine, will have dinner with him this week.
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JimHow
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by JimHow »

Francois is dead? When did he die? I just saw him last May:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-zmrqiR8ME
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JimHow
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by JimHow »

Here is part 2 of the Adouze interview….

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Wrh23Wu3vA

Absolutely classic stuff.

Sigh. Crazy, it has been a year since the epic France trip…

Where is time going!
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stefan
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by stefan »

Jim, I inadvertently started the rumor about François dying by referring to the late François. I intended that to mean "late to BWE" but...
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Comte Flaneur »

For some reason the right third of the photos are chopped off when I upload, so you can't see Tim's face.

Tim generously provided the 1924 and 1937 and in addition a Pavillon Blanc 2006.

We started with Salon 97 en mag, finished with Yquem 88 and in between we also had the 61, 78, 82, 83, 86, 88, 90, 96, 99 and 01 vintages of Chateau Margaux plus Neal Martin to provide his expert insights.

Notes to follow.
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Nicklasss
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Nicklasss »

Ouch!
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JimHow
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by JimHow »

Holy smoke.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Chateau Margaux, 'Chez Bruce', Monday 16th May 2016 in memory of Paul Pontallier

With canapés

Salon 97 en magnum

Lithe, lifted, pure, focused. It became more intense after a while. Undoubtedly a superb champagne, one for intellectuals and aficionados. 93?

Pavillon Blanc 2006

Waxy, lush, exotic fruited, much more rhoney than burg-like. Neal and others thought it was not right, and a bit oxidised. I must admit I really enjoyed it. 91

With celeriac, leek, wild mushroom tartlet with confit rabbit and tarragon

Chateau Margaux 1924

Audouzed at 3pm. Ominous murky, silty brown with a rather unpleasant nose of seaweed and molasses this attracted some sarcastic and disparaging comments, which suddenly ceased when it was tasted because it had a gorgeous rich and inviting multi-faceted and luscious palate with some herb and spicey nuances. It held together extremely well through the evening. If it wasn't for the off putting entry this would merit a very high score. 92

Chateau Margaux 1937

Also Audouzed at 3pm. This had a deep bright but opaque crimson-mahogany hue with a fascinating nose of briary, hickory and creosote. On the palate it had some saline notes but was lacking and somewhat dried out. Still a commendable effort. 86

Chateau Margaux 1961

Gorgeous nose and a bright translucent colour beautifully resolved, fresh and complex on the palate. Gloriously effortless mouth feel it glides across the palate. Some around the table complained about a lack of oomph, but that is not what I am looking for in this wine. I don't want it to be a blockbuster or for it to blow me away. It is ethereal in the true sense of the word and close to perfection in my book. 99

Chateau Margaux 1978

This had been stored in a cold cellar and came across as surprisingly youthful and initially mute. It is smooth, complex and classy as it slowly unfurls; eventually you get tobacco, ash and spicey notes but it was difficult to get much expression out of this. 92

With quail with fresh peas, wold garlic and morels

Chateau Margaux 1982

This was billed as the super-star flight and the 1982 blasted out of the blocks leaving its flight mates trailing in its wake. It has a fabulously exuberant but at the same time gorgeous entry with earthy, floral violet notes. It is medium-full bodied ripe berry fruit, and a fine velvety texture. 97 

Chateau Margaux 1983

A different creature to the 1982, the 1983 is more foursquare and backward still. It is grippier and brawnier. However this particular bottle came across as a bit flat, dusty and below par. Over the course of the evening it pulled itself up by its shoelaces but it remained some way behind the 1982. Nigel the owner of CB and others have had much better bottles of this recently. 92

Chateau Margaux 1986

While the 1983 came across as a bit rough round the edges compared to the suave 1982 the 1986 is a hooligan. It is still raw and backward and still evolving. Its is dark fruited and broodingly menacing. Basically this wine tells you to 'fuck off and leave me alone.' It really was out of sorts initially, so much so that the donor thought it might be flawed. But boy did it come on strong at the end, overtaking the 1983 and almost reining in the 1982. 95

Chateau Margaux 1988

I found this wine similar to the 1978. It was difficult to coax much out of this shy wine, which was outgunned and overshadowed by its more exuberant flight mates. However it is more accessible than it was ten years ago when it was a tannic curmudgeon. Underneath was a quietly classy still quite grippy wine, which I suspect it will develop very well over the next decade or two. 92

With fillet of beef with sweetbread croustillant, meat juices and thyme

Chateau Margaux 1990

A regal, elegant and refined Margaux, this wine is evolving at a glacial pace. It is seamless graceful, and velvety on the endless palate but it is powerful and authoritative at the same tine. The wine was criticised for not showing a lot, and this is because it still needs a lot of time to unfurl. It needs at least ten more years of cellaring. It is like a spacecraft on an endless journey leaving the solar system. I have no doubt it will evolve into one of the truly legendary Margaux. 98

Chateau Margaux 1996

In contrast to the brooding, skulking 1990 the all-singing, all-dancing 1996 ticks every box, as it has done thoroughout its illustrious 20 years. It did close down very briefly for a while a few years ago but now gives enormous pleasure. It is beautifully balanced, expressive, full-bodied, gorgeous and glorious to drink now and for the foreseeable future. What it may lack is that element of mystery that some of the other wines, like the 1990, possess, and indeed the last two members of this flight. 97

Chateau Margaux 1999

So the 1999 may lack the power and exuberance of the 1996 and other celebrated vintages but it has everything I look for in a wine. I liken this wine to the unravelling, from a minaret, of an endlessly mesmerising silk scarf, wafting and scything through the breeze. This has a refined palate of some white but dominant dark exotic Swiss chocolate; rich plums, exotic spices overlaid on a black fruited palate with dried flowers. It has bright acidity throughout, but it is deft and light on its feet. 96 Similar notes to before.

Chateau Margaux 2001

The 2001 is cut from similar cloth as the 1999 with a bit more heft. It has cedar and tobacco, raspberries and violets and other floral notes, iron and minerals. On the palate it is deceptively rich and powerful but ever so smooth, silky and suave, fresh and lifted. It mesmerises you as it weaves its magic. It is so complex, refined and utterly captivating. Like the1999 it just oozes refinement and class. 96 Similar notes to before

With Apricot sable Breton with lemon, honey and almonds

Chateau D'Yquem 1988

What a combination to finish on! The first half was corked but this one was really singing. 98

The wine of the night was the 1996 by a considerable margin, followed by the 1982, 1990, 1924, 1988, 1983, 2001, 1986 and 1961

My wine of the night on the night was the 1961 followed by the 1990. 

Well done and thanks to Sara and team Chez Bruce for making this a cracking evening in memory of Paul Pontallier. 
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AlexR
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by AlexR »

Those of us who went on the 2005 BWE Magical Mystery Tour of Bordeaux will never forget enjoying the 61 Margaux at the château poured from magnums by waiters in white gloves.

The stuff of dreams.

All the best,
Alex
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Blanquito
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Blanquito »

Holy sh!t. Incredible tasting, wonderful notes, extremely jealous reader.
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greatbxfreak
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by greatbxfreak »

Comte Flaneur,

Brilliant TNs! Great hommage to Paul Pontallier.

Great to hear 2001 Margaux did well.

Paul Pontallier told me several years ago, that one of his favourite vintages was 1953 and that 2010 reminded him of it. I had opportunity to taste 1953 Ch. Margaux many years ago and It was one of the best wines I have ever tasted.

1937 Margaux in the tasting was negociant bottling, wasn't it?
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Michael Malinoski
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Michael Malinoski »

Great write-up! What a tasting.
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JimHow
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by JimHow »

We had a number of those wines at a Stuart dinner including the 61, 82, 83, 86, and 90, what other vintages did we have David?
That 1990 Margaux has taken my breath away on the two occasions I have had it.
And that '99 is not far behind as well.
Great notes Ian!
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Nicklasss
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Nicklasss »

Re-ouch!

Great report, that makes all wishes we could be there! Chateau Margaux, with it's building, vineyards and wines, is the estate I would like the most be proprietary... Hey we have the right to dream!

My experience with Chateau Margaux is limited, but a bit like Chateau Léoville Las Cases, all vintages I tried have always been very satisfying, without any deception. The 1982, 1983, 1985 (twice, and my favorite in the blind tasting in DC 2009?), 2001 and 2004 were all great example of AOC Margaux terroir.

One thing I wonder: it is surprising that 1961 was your favorite Comte, as for the group it was last... What does that mean? You're the only one in your group with an European British palate?

Nic
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DavidG
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by DavidG »

Wow, WOW, WOW!

Thanks for sharing, Ian. I am riding high on the vicarious hog after reading your report.

I've had a few of those wines, but none of the ancient ones and never so many at one sitting. Though the visit to Ch. Margaux in 2005 wasn't a bad attempt...

Not surprised at how well the 1961 performed. I can still taste it 10 years later if I close my eyes.

Nor am I surprised by the 1990's outstanding showing. Wish I had more in the cellar, but they were irresistible. I even Howed a few of them.

A little surprised that the 1983 was beaten so handily by the 1982, but it's been years since I've had them.

And the 1988 Yquem is an immortal giant. Glad to have more of that in the cellar.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Thanks for all your comments.

Nic - the 1961 was indeed my favourite wine on the night. But I forgot to add it in, or messed up when I was doing the 3-2-1 vote count. Patrick is much better at it than me.
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tim
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Re: Chateau Margaux dinner tonight

Post by tim »

I wasn't quite as impressed with the 61 as Ian was. The 96, though, was simply incredible. Easily for me the best wine of the night. I enjoyed the 24, and I thought the 37 had a small window where it was good, but never outstanding. The wine that surprised me was the 86, it started off completely disjointed, but it came around during the night to be exceptional. Likewise, I went back and revisited the 99 later and it was also extremely good. But nothing that night could possibly match the 96.
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