1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

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Rudi Finkler
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1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

Post by Rudi Finkler »

Every time I drink or taste a wine near to perfection, a cascade of feelings and emotions comes over me. Not only enthusiasm and passion for this particular wine, but also a deep feeling of gratitude for this unique gift of nature and gratitude to the winemaker. It happened again last night, and even twice...

2001 La Fleur de Gay is a Pomerol with tremendous elegance, balance, and length. Only about 650 cases are produced. The seamless texture is incredibly fine and silky, and the wine shows a wonderful purity of perfectly ripe fruit -sweet black currant, blackberry, black cherry, plum, and blueberry-, with a precision and depth that is simply wonderful. With time, delicious notes of bitter chocolate and spices dominate on the finish.
I'm asked by one of my friends on the table if there was anything I could imagine to make this wine even better, and my answer is: nothing, except of the price. :-)

At the first sip of 2006 Léoville Barton, I think this extraordinary old school Saint-Julien might not be on the same level as the Pomerol, at least not entirely, but far from it...
Over the course of the dinner, about four ours, the Léoville Barton develops its full potential. It gains more and more depth and complexity, the fruit softly explodes on the palate, especially red and black cherry. The typical notes of cedar wood, leather, licorice, tobacco, dried herbs, and spices are simply delicious, and the subtle minerality is irresistible. But no question, the Léoville will benefit from a few more years of cellaring.
In the beginning of the evening, the La Fleur de Gay is everybody's darling, but later on the Léoville Barton, or both alternately.

Of course, the fully mature 1999 Fontenil has no chance against these two beauties. Although it does not display the same complexity and refinement, it is nevertheless a seductive wine , BTW with excellent QPR, and easily the equivalent of a good classified growth from Saint-Emilion. It has a profound spicy nose, and an intense black fruit profile, nice notes of leather, tobacco, licorice and spices, and interesting floral, earthy notes. The acidity is very agreeable and the subtle oak perfectly integrated. You might expect a very modern wine from M. and D. Rolland, but this it is not the case...
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AlexR
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Re: 1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

Post by AlexR »

Lovely notes Rudi.

With the changes at Croix de Gay I don't know what recent vintages of their prestige cuvée is like.
While not cheap, prices are definitley within the reasonable range.
I'm a big fan of the 2001 vintage :-);

I think the 2006s are a bit deceptive, reminding me of the 1999s. You think they're ready to go, but realize they have more to give.

Alex
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Rudi Finkler
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Re: 1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

Post by Rudi Finkler »

Yes, indeed, Alex, I think they have more to give. The potential is larger, the wines are more compelling than in 1999. I'm a fan of the 2006 vintage.
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AKR
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Re: 1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

Post by AKR »

Hmmm. Nice notes and thanks for sharing. I have little/no experience with the 2006's.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: 1999 Fontenil, 2001 La Fleur de Gay, 2006 Léoville Barton

Post by Comte Flaneur »

You just can't go wrong with Leoville-Barton can you? Wise heads counselled me to 'shut my eyes' and buy a case every year. The best advice I largely did not follow, I'm now reduced to back filling at higher prices.

I actually think it is a good idea to but Leoville-Barton in non-trophy vintages, because wines like 2000 and 2005 will take eons to come round, whereas you can enjoy the 01s, 02s, 04s, 07s and even at a stretch the 06s and 08s now.
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