TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

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AKR
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TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

Post by AKR »

BillP and our spouses got together last night at a local trendy place to imbibe some Margaux. Both bottles had been decanted ahead of time, and cellared since release, I believe.

00 Boyd Cantenac [Margaux] Medium bodied. Label is vague as to abv, suggesting its between 10.5% and 13.5% which is a broad band. Color shows maturity, but not yet light at the edges, and no fading with air. It featured a Barolo like charry, creosote nose to me. The palate has more typical Margauxberry fruit, but the nose seemed less like what I'd expect from this commune. It has mostly resolved tannin, but a bright spot of acidity here. We had it with food -- I picked a slab of salmon -- so that worked ok. I liked it, it seems to have evolved well, in a earthy kind of way. For whatever reasons I don't see this 5000 cs production wine around all that much. Maybe the last time we had one was with Stefan out here? was that the 82 or 83? I'd give a B+, although most people would grade it higher.

12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux] Another estate I hardly ever have, that last one being a 2010 maybe a year ago, but that too had broken a multi year C-B fast. This is clearly much younger, fuller and richly fruited. It also is more tannic, even with some aeration but less acidic than the older wine. The palate flavors are plummy and chocolatey, a good combination, but the nose is tight, with a dollop of oak. A likable wine, in need of a few more years of cellaring. I think this will eventually be fine to drink on its own, without food pairing. Both of these wines showed the lifeline that comes from high percentages of cabernet in the mix. I'd give this a B+ too, but its a different point on the maturity curve. I suspect others would like this more though. If opening prices had been less aggressive, I might have been tempted to buy some 2015 Margaux's EP, but for now, I'll just watch and wait. For my tastes I see better opportunities in other regions.
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William P
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Re: TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

Post by William P »

I can't add much to Arv's descriptions. I will say the Boyd was far brighter, i.e. more acidity and lighter in weight. This made it a great compliment to the meal. Nor is it peaking yet. The Brown had a fuller body without being a blob. It does exhibit youthful tannins on the rounder side. One could say it's in the modern style but the modern style is now more than a decade old and so we can drop the modern. I think in 15 year the Brown with be a highly enjoyable wine.

Thanks for the fun evening Arv. See you in Nov. for the big bbq.
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AKR
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Re: TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

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So one thing worth mentioning that Clive Coate's Bordeaux book covers, is the historic relationship between these two. Apparently back in the 1700's, when Jacques Boyd controlled the vineyards that made up the Cantenac estate, he had some falling out with his son in law during their 40 years. French inheritance laws & death duties being what they are -- cruel and inscrutable to Anglos -- this caused the estate to be carved up, and sold, and the next owners of one piece was John Brown, thus that component eventually turned into Cantenac Brown. The original piece was named Boyd Cantenac and continued on its way, mostly staying within a family ownership structure, and continued making a tannic traditional wine. Cantenac Brown seems to have had more ownership changes, and eventually after a stop in the AXA stable, seems to have now landed with another prosperous family, and has broadly chosen the path of modern, international styled wines.

I had not realized all of that backstory, when we were drinking them. But even vineyards right next to each other, and sharing a common DNA, can have wines that end up different.
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AlohaArtakaHoundsong
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Re: TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

Post by AlohaArtakaHoundsong »

I had the 83 Boyd about 12 years ago and it was great.
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Nicklasss
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Re: TN: 00 Boyd Cantenac, 12 Cantenac Brown [Margaux]

Post by Nicklasss »

Boyd Cantenac is very rare in my part of the World. I would like to sample a good vintage one day. Maybe nect time i'm in France.

Nic
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