http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/26/dinin ... .html?_r=0
Asimov talks about Bordeaux in the past tense and basically says it’s a wine for old farts. However, I think he only sees this from the narrow angle of his geeky microcosm and certainly does not have a good handle on what the world at large thinks of Bordeaux (China is by far the number one export market for both volume and value, Belgium imports more Bordeaux than the United States, etc.).
For all the article’s faults, he does get a few things right
. Bordeaux shines at table i.e., it’s not your sipping wine at a party. That’s for sure. And it has structure, something so often missing in other wines… Most of the wines the Times tasted were great growths, which perfectly illustrates the age-old problem when the name "Bordeaux" is mentioned. The great wines *have* become very expensive. But they are only the tip of the iceberg (approximately 5% of the total). He’s on target when he compares these wines to Premier Cru Burgundy or vintage Champagne.
Asimov pretty much rejects second wines out of hand (he at least admits he has little experience with them).
Yes, there is a lot of inferior cheap Bordeaux out there. BUT there are also plenty of good value wines.
Funny, isn’t it, how it’s considered really cool when someone tracks down a lovely minor Burgundy or a wine from a little-known French region like Bugey or Lubéron, but Bordeaux is considered old hat and not propitious to such discoveries. Nothing could be further from the truth!
Asimov writes that "perhaps the $ 20 range is not the best place to look for Bordeaux". I heartily disagree, even if I acknowledge that critics, the media, and the wine trade in some countries cannot be bothered to search out inexpensive wines that can hold their own in terms of value for money with ones from anywhere in the world. Their reasoning: even if I come across a really good wine from a modest appellation, I won’t have a market for it, and the wine will sit on the shelf. So why bother?
Obviously, the Bordelais have to take their fair share of blame for this situation.
Alex R.
