England, Japan, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 2:36 pm
Hi,
A wine dinner at the house on Saturday started off with two sparkling wines. The first was the Nyetimber classic cuvée from Chiltington, England. Although made from the traditional Champagne grape varieties and probably grown on chalky soil, this was easily spotted as something other than Champagne. However, that did not mean it was not appreciated, and everyone was glad to sample such an exotic wine. This was followed by 1999 Ayala, which was in fine form – biscuity, but not oxidized and certainly not too old.
We had 2 whites with the first course. The 2014 Suntory Koshu was served blind and no one came even close to guessing its origin. This was not a tremendously expressive wine, but was clean as a whistle and technologically irreproachable. The white 2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges premier cru Les Terres Blanches from Domaine des Perdrix divided the table somewhat, some people thinking it seemed older than its age and slightly oxidised, while others (including myself) thought it was classic white Burgundy not out of line for a wine of its age. In any event, this was less heavy than I remember and was good as well as being curiosity.
Three Médocs were served with the main course (agneau de Pauillac). We were completely off as to the first wine, a 2005 Brane Cantenac. Because of a certain alcoholic hotness on the finish, we were thinking it was a hot climate wine made with Bordeaux grape varieties! Anyway, the wine is not far from being ready to drink and was a pleasure, although atypical. We then compared, side by side in two glasses, 2001 Pichon Baron and 2001 Mouton Rothschild. The former was unfortunately corked. The latter was classic and delightful, not far from its peak, which it will certainly hold for a long time. Lots of people in Bordeaux just love the 2001s, which was a classic “Atlantic” vintage rather than a “Mediteranean” one beloved of certain critics. 2001 Mouton has good acidity, poise, all one might hope for. The earth did not move, but what a treat with food!
As for the Pichon Baron, one of my guests, an enologist, said that the chateau she works for replaces corked bottles. So, I have written today to the château and mailed the cork and we’ll see what happens…
I might add that another guest had arrived that day from England and brought 3 cheeses with him. I just love English cheeses, and everyone enjoyed them immensely.
I did something pretty unusual for the dessert course (red kuri squash and chestnut purée) and decanted 2 Sauternes, both from the 1997 vintage: Sigalas Rabaud and Rabaud Promis. These were in fine form and opinions were divided as to which was better. My preference went to the former because of its finesse, but the Rabaud Promis was delightful as well: fuller, richer, and sweeter.
As if 2 dessert wines weren’t enough, a Portuguese friend served a final wine blind. I thought this was a young vintage Port but, no, it was a Napa Valley Heitz Cellars “Ink Grade” Port. This had been “smuggled” into Europe because the EU does not allow the importation of non-European wines with European place names… Anyway, this was showing lots of toasty American oak and exuberance. It was made with 8 Douro Valley grape varieties. If I had another bottle, I would let it age for a very long time.
Best,
Alex R.
A wine dinner at the house on Saturday started off with two sparkling wines. The first was the Nyetimber classic cuvée from Chiltington, England. Although made from the traditional Champagne grape varieties and probably grown on chalky soil, this was easily spotted as something other than Champagne. However, that did not mean it was not appreciated, and everyone was glad to sample such an exotic wine. This was followed by 1999 Ayala, which was in fine form – biscuity, but not oxidized and certainly not too old.
We had 2 whites with the first course. The 2014 Suntory Koshu was served blind and no one came even close to guessing its origin. This was not a tremendously expressive wine, but was clean as a whistle and technologically irreproachable. The white 2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges premier cru Les Terres Blanches from Domaine des Perdrix divided the table somewhat, some people thinking it seemed older than its age and slightly oxidised, while others (including myself) thought it was classic white Burgundy not out of line for a wine of its age. In any event, this was less heavy than I remember and was good as well as being curiosity.
Three Médocs were served with the main course (agneau de Pauillac). We were completely off as to the first wine, a 2005 Brane Cantenac. Because of a certain alcoholic hotness on the finish, we were thinking it was a hot climate wine made with Bordeaux grape varieties! Anyway, the wine is not far from being ready to drink and was a pleasure, although atypical. We then compared, side by side in two glasses, 2001 Pichon Baron and 2001 Mouton Rothschild. The former was unfortunately corked. The latter was classic and delightful, not far from its peak, which it will certainly hold for a long time. Lots of people in Bordeaux just love the 2001s, which was a classic “Atlantic” vintage rather than a “Mediteranean” one beloved of certain critics. 2001 Mouton has good acidity, poise, all one might hope for. The earth did not move, but what a treat with food!
As for the Pichon Baron, one of my guests, an enologist, said that the chateau she works for replaces corked bottles. So, I have written today to the château and mailed the cork and we’ll see what happens…
I might add that another guest had arrived that day from England and brought 3 cheeses with him. I just love English cheeses, and everyone enjoyed them immensely.
I did something pretty unusual for the dessert course (red kuri squash and chestnut purée) and decanted 2 Sauternes, both from the 1997 vintage: Sigalas Rabaud and Rabaud Promis. These were in fine form and opinions were divided as to which was better. My preference went to the former because of its finesse, but the Rabaud Promis was delightful as well: fuller, richer, and sweeter.
As if 2 dessert wines weren’t enough, a Portuguese friend served a final wine blind. I thought this was a young vintage Port but, no, it was a Napa Valley Heitz Cellars “Ink Grade” Port. This had been “smuggled” into Europe because the EU does not allow the importation of non-European wines with European place names… Anyway, this was showing lots of toasty American oak and exuberance. It was made with 8 Douro Valley grape varieties. If I had another bottle, I would let it age for a very long time.
Best,
Alex R.