Some Bordeaux Oldies

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sdr
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Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by sdr »

Since I recently had a birthday that made me officially ancient, I decided to use the event as an excuse to open some of my oldie Bordeaux, although none as old as I am. Coincidentally, the local wine shop, Wine Watch, put on a tasting of old Bordeaux as well. These notes are a combination of three events.


1966 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 92 points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Fascinating wine. Pale color, no browning. Incredibly complex if faint bouquet of primrose, then tobacco ash, old leather and much more I cannot describe. It's mostly tertiary but lifted by floral notes and supremely elegant. Changes by the minute in the glass, a contemplative wine. As Jeff Leve notes, the palate does not live up to the bouquet. Nevertheless, it's sound and well balanced and not too acidic. Light in body, yet still a trace of tannins, so finishes well. Maybe better ten or twenty years ago, but then again, maybe not. Lafite evolves in mysterious ways.

1966 Chateau Latour 94 points
France, Bordeaux, Medoc, Pauilliac

Another splendid bottle of '66 Latour, which is proving to be the most reliable of the old Latours, even if not quite reaching the profundity of the very best bottles of '59 and '61. Excellent deep ruby color almost to the rim. Deeply Pauillac aromas of black earth, gravel, porcini and truffle. Medium full body, clean finish. Still lively even deep into its tertiary phase.

1961 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

This beautifully well preserved bottle, sourced recently from WineBid, was quite stunning. Deep ruby color belies it's age. Remarkably concentrated in the best ways of the 1961 vintage with black fruit, charcoal and smoke. It's a bit burly, though, which is a GPL signature, but that is quibbling. Bottles like this still have plenty of life.

1959 Chateau Beychevelle 87 points
France, Bordeaux, Medoc, St. Julien

Obviously the weakest of the bunch from the decade of the '50s tasting. Not spoiled in any way but murky, sour and watery although a vestige of cranberry fruit remains. On its own it's drinkable, but surrounded by the other good to great wines, why bother?

1959 Château Margaux 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

The '59 Margaux does not have a great reputation among the First Growths of this fine vintage, but this bottle was really quite good but certainly not great. The color was reassuringly deep for age. The nose was the best part, as so often with old Margaux, wonderfully sweet in the way that only very old wine can be, with an intriguing note of eucalyptus. A little thin on the palate, though, and it tails off meekly on the finish. Still, it lasted and even improved in the glass over a couple of hours.

1959 Château Latour Grand Vin 98 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

From a well stored magnum of a local collector, the '59 Latour was the unanimous favorite of the group and myself in an extraordinary series of fine Bordeaux from the decade of the 1950's. Astonishingly dark ruby color, as if it were 20 years old instead of almost sixty. Immediately forthcoming and bold, almost as if boasting of its regal superiority. This is exactly the epiphany of old Bordeaux, masses of cassis, sweet tobacco, dried porcini, truffle and black licorice, smooth and decadently rich, the tannins melted into the savory juice. While young Latour can be impressive in its concentration, it takes decades to develop into something this complex, this compelling. A revelation, and proof that 1959 is the best vintage of this decade.

1959 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Fascinating in its tremendous complexity and warmth, vestiges of old red fruit, dried cherries, leather, smoke and dust. Living on the edge but compelling as it gradually opened in the glass. Perhaps more interesting in a cerebral way than delicious, though.

1959 Château Lafite Rothschild 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

I chose this bottle to be perhaps the apex of the wines I opened for my birthday, but alas, it did not perform. Less opaque than the surrounding wines from '59 or '61, but that is typical of Lafite. When this wine is on form, it has one of the most remarkable bouquets in all of the Gironde, but this particular bottle was somewhat mute. Both the nose and palate were muddled, indistinct and lacking the floral grace for which Lafite is famous. Still, the old wine elements of leather and spice were enjoyable enough for what they were, if not for what they could be.

1959 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Flawed
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

I brought the bottle to the restaurant but despite its seemingly excellent condition and dark color, there was simply too much VA for enjoyment. While the volatile part of the acidity gradually faded, the fixed component did not.

1955 Château Latour Grand Vin 88 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Mid-shoulder fill bottle, murky color, some brown. Mellow from age, thin on the palate and tastes every bit of its 62 years and then some. Yet despite its weaknesses, it tastes almost sweet and surprisingly elegant. Unsurprisingly though, it faded in the glass. Better bottles have been more sturdy but not great.

1955 Château Mouton Rothschild 88 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

From a bottle with mid shoulder ullage, the color was surprisingly deep for a standard size bottle. The nose was somewhat roasted, which had me thinking it might be the LMHB (blind tasting). Medium intensity of modest old Bordeaux flavors of pipe tobacco, cedar and ash. Repeat sampling revealed that it structurally wobbled and a note of acetone crept in. More interesting than delicious since the fruit had left the building.

1953 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

Stunning LMHB, from a magnum recorked in 1985, which may have contributed to its fine showing. A little muffled out of the gate despite a few hours decanting time, it gathered steam in the glass. Slightly light in the mid palate, high acids, but very stylish and distinctive. The more time passed, the more of that LMHB hickory barbecue smoke erupted from the glass like a vinous volcano. Wonderful combination of old and vigorous.


CLOSING

Most of these wines are not that great, although all are interesting in their own right. I've had other bottles not so long ago, either the same wines or similar, that did show better, especially the '59 Lafite. That said, I find I am enjoying my Bordeaux a little younger, say, 30 - 40 years old for the most part. Still when one of these ancient bottles is on form, there is nothing like it and I am grateful for the opportunity to taste them.

Stuart
Last edited by sdr on Sat Mar 11, 2017 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Nicklasss
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by Nicklasss »

Clearly some wines I don't see often, or let say never. All wines that are truly something unique, each bottle. i enjoyed the read. Thanks Stuart.

Nic

P.S. Jim, the 61 GPL looks like another excellent to great GPL!
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dstgolf
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by dstgolf »

Stuart,

Thanks for a wonderful whimsical review of some of our birth year wines. Danielle was drooling at your 59 Latour description until she got to the almost 60 comment!! She likes to think she's younger but I keep reassuring her she's just like that 59 Latour...very well preserved. Great tasting notes and belated Happy Birthday.
Danny
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JimHow
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by JimHow »

Great report, Stuart, and happy birthday from Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts!
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SF Ed
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by SF Ed »

Sounds like some great old Bordeaux! I remember tasting the 1955 Latour with you many BWEs ago and was very impressed with it. Maybe not great, but really good.

With great BDX, I think 50 years is just about right. I love where 1964 and 1966s are right now.

SF Ed
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Jay Winton
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by Jay Winton »

Nice recap Dr. Being a 59er, it's fun to live vicariously through you. See you Wednesday!
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sdr
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by sdr »

Jay,

It might not be vicarious . . .

Stu
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Tom In DC
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by Tom In DC »

Happy birthday!

Excellent report - thanks for sharing, Stu. While I don't have François' affinity, the oldies are always interesting to try and the good bottles are a peak wine experience for me.

Tom
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Blanquito
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by Blanquito »

Great stuff and happy birthday, Stu.

I've not had many pre-1966s, but like Ed, I'm finding the 66s still quite excellent.
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Thanks for those wonderful notes Stu and congratulations on reaching your mile stone.

A lot of those wines many of us will not have the opportunity to taste so the <<vicarious>> thrills really are appreciated!

I adored the bottle of 66 Lafite I tried a year or two ago. Especially as my expectations were modest. Exactly as you described it.
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stefan
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by stefan »

Happy Birthday, Stu. It has been a while since I have drunk anything from the 1950s, but the 1966s are mostly still good.
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DavidG
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by DavidG »

Happy birthday Stuart and thanks for the fine report.
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brodway
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Re: Some Bordeaux Oldies

Post by brodway »

Happy Birthday Stuart!!!!
many many more
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