Dinner with Alfred

Post Reply
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Alfred Tesseron was in town and we managed to coax him out for dinner on Wednesday at La Trompette in Chiswick, West London, with a group of mainly locals. However Alex and Tim were in town too and so was Ed (yes SF Ed!), but he couldn't make it. The four of us plus Christine and Maureen did however have dinner together Chez Comte Flaneur on Tuesday night, where we opened a few wines from different locales.

We had the benefit of Alfred's insights in the car journey from his hotel in St-James's to Chiswick, and at the table. His niece Melanie is no longer active in managing and promoting the estate, but remains a stakeholder. She is pursuing a design/artistic career. This means that there is more burden on Alfred, who turns 70 next month, and his long standing winemaker and confidant, Jean-Michel Comme. Needless to say it was a great privilege to have Alfred join us, and he stood up to speak to the whole group no less than four times. He came across as very enthusiastic and fascinated by the discussion of his wines which did not shy away from frank criticism.

On to the wines, just cursory observations. 2004 Pol Winston was remarkably accessible, fresh and aristocratic at the same time (93). The Pape Clement Blanc 1999 was even better and perfectly a point (94).

In the first flight of Pontet Canet I preferred the 1996 (92) to the 1994 (89). The 1994 is a success for the vintage but still shows its limitations, which are shown up by its flight mate. The 1994 has a classical style, with a linearity, leanness and austerity, which lends itself well to matching with food. It has modest length and is not going to improve, nor is it in the same league as 1994s from Ch. Margaux, Latour and Leoville Lascases. The 1996 was slightly different from the one we drank on Friday. It is a bit rustic/farmyard-y on the attack, but beneath lies a dense and surprisingly lush wine, which contrasts with the 1994. On the basis of this bottle it is clearly in the drinking zone, but another five years might smooth it out a bit more.The 1995 tried from the other table was more accessible and less austere than I expected. A good wine somewhere in between the 1994 and 1996 (91). One you can drink now and over the next few years, while your 1994s really need drinking up.

On to the next flight we started off with the 2003, which certainly divides opinions as we know. My initial impression last night that this wine is 'all mouth and trousers' - it makes a big statement but doesn't really back it up with substance. But as the evening wore on I realised that I underestimated this wine. This is a fine wine and a notable success for the vintage. The attack is rich and ripe, but not over ripe. While it lacked the power and density of its formidable flight mates, it finishes well and gained weight and stature over the course of the evening (93). It should drink well over the next ten years, and I am pleased to own this. Alfred really rates his 2003...some others still didn't like it - we had one bottle on each of the two tables.

The 2005 is powerful and impressive, with fabulous depth of fruit, minerals and graphite. Like many 2005s it has a dense and brooding inner core and isn't ready yet, but will be fabulous after 2025 (95). The 2009 was similar but has an extra layers of class, purity and opulence (97). Some of the 2005s are a bit aggressive, raspy, extracted and edgy. They should smooth out, but the 2009s move the game on.

The 2011 is a brilliant wine in a Cinderella vintage. Remarkably silky and refined tannins it is already approachable and tastes luxurious, with a nice grip on the back end (93). Whereas the 2011 had a good balance the 2012 came across as a little over-ripe and jammy, even though it is a well made wine, which has undergone strict selection. I suspect this had something to do with this wine being served towards the end of the evening and having moved above the optimum temperature. I am less confident in the future of this wine than the 2011 (90). In fact I am worried about this wine.

Chateau d'Yquem 1976 to finish was not as sublime as the one we enjoyed back in September, but was still a pleasure and thrill to feel it glide over the palate.


 
User avatar
JimHow
Posts: 20106
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:49 pm
Location: Lewiston, Maine, United States
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by JimHow »

Wow!
User avatar
JCNorthway
Posts: 1546
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:31 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by JCNorthway »

Impressive lineup that seemed, for the most part, to deliver high quality experiences. I had a chance to attend a Pontet Canet dinner with Alfred in Chicago a few years back. He struck me as being a very genuine person and he was quite willing to discuss the wines we had at length. I don't recall all of the wines we had that night, but we did have the 1994, 2009 and 2010 (and a couple of others). The 09 and 10 were the most impressive on that night. I recall the 1994 being good but not great.

On the subject of Pontet Canet, has anyone recently tried the 2000 vintage. I would be interested to hear how it is developing.
User avatar
Blanquito
Posts: 5923
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:24 pm

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Blanquito »

Great report Ian. As mentioned in another thread, I also am quite high on the 96 but it still needs time or a long decant to show it's best. I could see it going to a 94 someday. Good to hear about the 03, that wine has shown oddly at points in its evolution, almost like it was hibernating even though it isn't a tannic wine ... Alfred is a true gentleman who also has a charming personality (not always a combo that goes together).
User avatar
Blanquito
Posts: 5923
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:24 pm

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Blanquito »

FWIW, Parker re-rated the 2000 94+ pts in 6/2010:
Upgraded in score over my original rating, which was several points lower, Alfred Tesseron has done a remarkable job since 1994 with Pontet-Canet, which has been hitting first-growth levels since 2003. But the 2000 also shows exceptionally well. In need of another decade of cellaring, this dense purple wine has a classic nose of incense, charcoal, creme de cassis, and subtle new oak. Full-bodied, powerful, still very tannic, and shockingly backward, this is a big, rich wine that has put on weight and seems to need more time than I originally predicted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+.

But that's nearly 7 years ago. I have noticed prices for it have gone up a lot in the past year at auction.
User avatar
dstgolf
Posts: 2083
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 12:00 am
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by dstgolf »

Ian,

Another great evening with Pontet Canet at the center of attention and Alfred the ever present star of the show. Even with the wines as good as they are , they didn't seem like the high-lite of the event....again. The penultimate gentleman without question and highly esteemed by Bordeaux lovers and especially BWE for sure. Was there discussion re succession plan for PC now that his niece is no longer involved?
Danny
User avatar
AKR
Posts: 5234
Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:33 am
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by AKR »

It's very strange that his niece is not involved going forward.

Thanks for the notes.

I wish them well and enjoy their wines.

I've liked the 94 since release, it was a startlingly good breakout year for them.

I remember the buzz about it all those years ago, sort of like what the Tour St Christophe owners are creating for themselves too.
User avatar
DavidG
Posts: 8280
Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:12 pm
Location: Maryland
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by DavidG »

Great report, thanks for posting Ian. What a treat to have Alfred Tesseron join you.

I've started drinking my 2000 and 2003 Pontet Canet. Both are showing well. The 2003 was a huge JimHow favorite and was delicious when young. One of the few Bdx he got me to open in its youth. It went dark for me after age 5 and just started to show well again this past year. I think it's got at least a decade of life left.

Still holding the 2005 and 2009.
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

dstgolf wrote:Ian,

Another great evening with Pontet Canet at the center of attention and Alfred the ever present star of the show. Even with the wines as good as they are , they didn't seem like the high-lite of the event....again. The penultimate gentleman without question and highly esteemed by Bordeaux lovers and especially BWE for sure. Was there discussion re succession plan for PC now that his niece is no longer involved?
Not really Danny. I tried to enquire subtly. He had a very long day on Wednesday and we didn't leave until after 11. He is carrying a lot on his shoulders. He has a 23 year old son who is keen on wine and working at Sotheby's in Hong Kong. But I get the sense that Alfred will be in the driving seat for a few years yet. It is not clear if Melanie will come back, but she is apparently pursuing one of her passions right now. Clearly she would be a logical successor given that she has a ton of experience even though Alfred said she is still only in her early 30s. He described Jean-Michel Comme as a stalwart and 'my right arm'- they have worked together for a few decades. I don't know what the staff numbers are but it is one of the biggest estates in the Medoc.
User avatar
greatbxfreak
Posts: 909
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:09 pm
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by greatbxfreak »

Impressive.

It's correct that Melanie went back to London, but his daughter, Justine, arrived at Pontet Canet in November 2014 I think.

According to Pontet Canet's brochure about 2016 vintage, she's portrayed together with his father and Jean-Michel Comme. There's some mentioning about next generation at Pontet Canet for Justine. I was told during my primeur visit about it and Alex can confirm that. Alfred said to me then, that Melanie wasn't involved anymore with wine duties at Pontet Canet.

Btw, Parker isn't correct with 1994, as Alfred Tesseron arrived at PC in 2000 and this is his first vintage.
User avatar
JimHow
Posts: 20106
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:49 pm
Location: Lewiston, Maine, United States
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by JimHow »

Btw, Parker isn't correct with 1994, as Alfred Tesseron arrived at PC in 2000 and this is his first vintage.
Is that true, GBF? I watched a video recently where Alfred was talking about the 1994 vintage, and his father was upset with his work at first, and then the father tasted the wine and he wasn't upset, etc., etc., and they agreed to let Alfred take over the winemaking, etc.
User avatar
Blanquito
Posts: 5923
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:24 pm

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Blanquito »

greatbxfreak wrote:Btw, Parker isn't correct with 1994, as Alfred Tesseron arrived at PC in 2000 and this is his first vintage.
This contradicts the stories Alfred shared with us at the Pontet Canet dinner in NYC around 2008. In fact, Alfred's accounts made it sound like he and his father had engaged in a friendly debate for a while about wine making approaches and it was only with the 94 vintage that the father let Alfred try out his approach in full. The results were so good, we were told, that the father let the son keep the reins from that vintage forward.
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

That's right Patrick, and it is documented in an interview with Alfred. We also heard that story from the horses mouth on Wednesday. Alfred took over the winemaking in the 1994 vintage and his father looked after the accounts from then on. Ironically, and I forgot to mention, the other table had a 1993, which I tried and was very good. It was as good as the 1994. Alfred conducted a green harvest behind his father's back in 1994. He was worried he would be banished but his father liked the wine and agreed that yield maximisation was not necessarily the optimal strategy.
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

The point to note is that the Tesserons arrived at Pontet Canet in 1975. They already owned Lafon Rochet, I think from 1959. Alfred's brother runs that estate and he runs Pontet Canet and the cognac business.
User avatar
JimHow
Posts: 20106
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:49 pm
Location: Lewiston, Maine, United States
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by JimHow »

Alfred conducted a green harvest behind his father's back in 1994. He was worried he would be banished but his father liked the wine and agreed that yield maximisation was not necessarily the optimal strategy.
Right. That's the story I remember seeing Alfred tell in a video that was actually posted here on BWE by somebody, perhaps Arv or Alex, I think it may have been a WSJ or Bloomberg interview or some such thing.

Perhaps GBF means that Alfred took over ownership of the property in 2000?
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Yes perhaps. His father died in 2003.

Over to you Izak.
User avatar
AKR
Posts: 5234
Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:33 am
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by AKR »

Whatever the backstory is, by most accounts the wines dramatically improved starting in 1994.

The ones I've had from the good years in the 80's were nothing special, sadly.
User avatar
greatbxfreak
Posts: 909
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:09 pm
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by greatbxfreak »

JimHow, Comte Flaneur,

Alfred Tesseron visited Cph some years ago and told me that he took over the property in 2000, because it was completely run down. His father didn't have a clue anymore.

For me, PC started rise up for real in 2004.

I'm pretty sure, Justine Tesseron is lined up to take over the management of property in few years time. I'm surprised that Alfred's niece, Melanie, apparently lost her interest in managing of PC after several years of wine education.
User avatar
AlexR
Posts: 2373
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:35 am
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by AlexR »

I have heard about Nigel Platts-Martin’s famous London restaurants (the Square, the Ledbury, Chez Bruce, the Glasshouse, and La Trompette) for years, so I was anxious to go to one of them when Ian Amstad told me he was organizing a wine dinner focusing on Château Ponet Canet at La Trompette on the 3rd of May. Owner Alfred Tesseron kindly agreed to come over from Bordeaux to attend the meal and to comment on the wines.

Ian, Tim Mc Cracken from Paris, and I met Alfred at Dukes Hotel in Mayfair and then took a long taxi ride with him to Chiswick where La Trompette is located.

There were 16 of us from 5 different countries at two tables set apart from one of two main dining rooms with a screen. I sat with Nigel on my left and Alfred on my right. Nigel seemed amazingly at ease for a restaurateur. This is because he knows how to delegate and trusts his staff. They most certainly did not let him down.
Alfred was also at ease in English and speaking in public. In addition to anecdotes about Pontet Canet, he also talked about his Cognac business and his family’s recent purchase of Pym Rae vineyard in the Napa Valley, an estate formerly belonging to Robin Williams.

Service was superb throughout the meal, with a different glass for each wine. The food was top-notch and the main course as good as anything I might find in France.

We started off with 2004 Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill for the apéritif. This was quite a fine Champagne, but I cannot honestly say that it had a special spark or inspiration.

I don’t think that anyone would have taken the 1999 white Château Pape Clément (45% Sémillon, 45% Sauvigon Blanc, and 10% Muscadelle) for an 18-year-old wine if served blind! It had a very pale golden color and a nose of lemon and oak, plus a matchstick aroma. It was quite virile on the palate, with a long persistent aftertaste showing plenty of oak – maybe too much. This still has many years ahead of it and I wouldn’t see its peak before 2025.

1994 Pontet Canet: This is hardly considered a stellar year, but I was very pleasantly surprised. The color was a lovely deep aristocratic crimson. The nose clearly said Pauillac with ripe fruit, truffle, and graphite overtones. The wine was soft, mineral, and well-balanced on the palate. Slightly thin compared to the greatest vintages, it is nevertheless a very commendable effort.

1996 Pontet Canet: Once again, a fine deep, dark color. The bouquet was somewhat monolithic with pencil shaving aromas. The wine was a bit dumb on the palate, and one has the impression that it still needs time some 21 years after the vintage. The tannin is fine-grained. The 94 is more ready and user-friendly, but the 96 will be a better wine when it reaches its peak in perhaps ten more years. While not forthcoming or together at this stage, the potential is clearly there. The finish is long and promising.

2003 Pontet Canet: This is quite a controversial wine among Bordeaux lovers, with its champions and its detractors… The color was fine, and the nose pure and up-front. The wine was big, spherical, and raisiny on the palate. It seemed strong, assertive, and a bit dry, while lacking in a marked underlying character. The overall structure was massive with plenty of grip, dry tannin, and black fruit on the finish. I don’t see where this is going, but I have one bottle in the cellar and will give it a few years more to find out. In other words, this is not at all the sort of 2003 that is top-heavy, low in acid, and to drink young.

2005 Pontet Canet: This wine had a deep, impressive color and an altogether classic nose of cedar and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in its region of predilection. The bouquet was somewhat New World in its concentration and exuberance. This quality followed through on the palate, which was meaty and a little extravagant, with fine oak. A long mineral aftertaste bodes well for further ageing. I’d give it about 15 more years.

2009 Pontet Canet: The color was impeccable, as deep as one could hope. The nose was redolent of caramel, oak, and subtle cassis, whereas the taste featured coffee-vanilla components and spread out beautifully on the palate. The balance was superb. This wine was both gutsy and elegant. There is also what I’d call a streak or a line of cool, refreshing minerality that gives this vintage of Pontet Canet its unique personality and makes it extremely interesting. I tasted this wine en primeur in 2010 the same day I went to three first growths – and Pontet Canet showed in the same class… I was not at all disappointed with retasting, and it unquestionably holds tremendous promise.

2011 Pontet Canet: Fine youthful appearance with a bouquet showing toned-down oak and gorgeous blueberry, blackberry, and blackcurrant fruit aromas. Rich and full on the palate, but not exaggerated. There was obvious oak and a caramel flavor that needs to integrate over time. This is a “digestible” wine that was unexpectedly delicious. One to watch.

2012 Pontet Canet: Great color with a nose of ripe fruit, graphite, and sweet oak. This oak, along with a caramel flavour, compete with the fruit at this time, but the wine is just going through an awkward phase in my opinion. Although my least favorite wine of the tasting, it would be unfair to say that it was wanting. It simply needs to come together.

We finished with an Yquem which, as always, is a great way to end a meal, even if this particular bottle of 1976 seemed a little tired. However, that was not to be the last word since Alfred was also kind enough to pour us all a glass of his Lot N° 53 Perfection Grande Champagne X.O. Cognac. Like all the best brandies from the Charente, it was feather light and elegant to the point where you have no idea that you are drinking a strong spirit!

Many thanks to Ian for organizing such a memorable evening, and to Alfred for coming over for it.

Alex R.
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Fabulous notes Alex! Especially as you were in that Alfred Tesseron-Nigel Platt's Martin sandwich, it must have been difficult to get pen to paper.
User avatar
Antoine
Posts: 218
Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 2:45 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Antoine »

Excellent dinner with grreat company and superb food...and wines.
I can clarify that Alfred started to have a growing influence and take over during the 1990-1993 period under Dad's supervision until he dared to defy Dad in 1994, So, it was a progressive thing.
Ref 2003, both tables had a bottle and judgment was very contrasted (the other table did not fancy it really...).Bottle variation?
Thanks to Alex and Ian for doing a great job (funny how last summer he mentioned in Lyon that he was more and more hands ogg and it was down to the next generation while he did not elaborate this time...
User avatar
jckba
Posts: 1808
Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:18 pm
Location: Sparkill, NY
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by jckba »

Sounds like a pretty epic evening!
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by Comte Flaneur »

I tried another bottle of the 2012 this week. I drank it at 60-64F. It was much better than the one we had with Alfred, which was labouring somewhat in the heat of the room, which must have been 72-75F by the time we drank it. The 2011 is better but the 2012 should come together very well in time.
User avatar
jckba
Posts: 1808
Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:18 pm
Location: Sparkill, NY
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by jckba »

Ian - I literally stockpiled PC btw 2005 and 2010 as I loved the 2003 and subsequently jumped on the bandwagon as Parker began to continually preach its greatness, but now you have certainly piqued my interest in extending my vertical.
User avatar
JimHow
Posts: 20106
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:49 pm
Location: Lewiston, Maine, United States
Contact:

Re: Dinner with Alfred

Post by JimHow »

Indeed, JC, the 2011 and 2012 are beauties.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Dzurcher, Google [Bot] and 12 guests