The local wine shop extraordinaire put on an impressive tasting of La Mission Haut-Brion spanning five decades, with one vintage of Haut-Brion as a comparison.
All the wines had been purchased on or near release by a local collector so provenance was not an issue. (How often does that happen with a '61?).
The group vote for favorite was: 1st - 1961, 2nd - 1990, 3rd - 1989. I was surprised that the '82 did not finish in the top three since it was my second choice overall. Many of the wines were quite impressive though.
A mushroom carpaccio and filet of beef was served to accompany the wines.
- 2004 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
I was surprised how approachable and tasty this youngster was. Savory, harmonious, very good. Not the length of the bigger vintages but nice to drink already. (89 pts.)
- 1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Hard to read at this almost embryonic stage. It's dense and intense, powerful and impressive. There's a rock solid core of fruit which bodes well for the future. Wait at least 5 more years. Promising. (91 pts.)
- 1990 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
The lone Haut-Brion in the vertical of LMHB. With the label showing, the difference was apparent in that this Haut-Brion was softer, more complex and distinctly more elegant than the rough textured LMHBs. It is more mature than the '89 or '90 LMHB as well and probably has peaked. Only slightly excessive acidity keeps it from scoring even higher. (93 pts.)
- 1990 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This was the most puzzling and disappointing vintage of LMHB in the vertical (1961 - 2004) but many others were much more impressed than I. To me, it was closed and even short, with only moderate concentration. Not bad and not spoiled or off, just modest and suprisingly weak. Since it should have been so much more, either I just missed it or some were overly impressed with the label. For sure I need to try it again before dismissing it. (90 pts.)
- 1989 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Extremely dark color, no lightening at the rim. At first dull and smells like - water. Blasphemy for LMHB. And relatively weak on the palate too. But after about a half hour in the glass, it improved drastically and took off. Now, more typical, dense and concentrated. Still drying tannins though so perhaps needs more time. (93 pts.)
- 1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
The '82 LMHB is one of the top wines of the vintage, and still young as this bottle attests. The color is more mature than the palate, medium ruby and amber at the meniscus. Archetypal LMHB fragrance of baking spice, cranberry and hickory smoke. Full bodied, still a little aggressive, great mouth feel despite juicy acidity. Irresistible now and for many years to come. If you don't like this vintage, you definitely do not like LMHB. (94 pts.)
- 1981 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Here the aromas were much more lively than the palate. Good healthy color. On the nose, sweet cinnamon and clove with a whisper of bonfire smoke, very nice. Distinctly thin on the mid-palate though and ultimately an unimpressive finish after a promising start. (88 pts.)
- 1971 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This was a good showing for a '71. Old wine aromas of leather, iodine and burnt brick. It's pleasant to sip slowly although it obviously lacks the concentration of the better vintages. Best to drink this with charred meat. (90 pts.)
- 1970 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This is the vintage of LMHB (in)famous for spoilage due to high volatile acidity, so we were lucky to get a bottle free from this defect. But even from a sound bottle, it was thin and blah. After some air, a strong note of reduction like rubber peeked out. Pass on this one. (I have had other bottles in the past which showed better.) (84 pts.)
- 1964 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
From a vintage more successful on the Right Bank and Graves than the Médoc, the LMHB is very good if not quite up to the best of the best. Still, it's interestingly complex and has plenty of LMHB character. Probably will go downhill from here, though. (92 pts.)
- 1961 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Even more than the the ones from the '70s, this bottle showed the advantage of perfect provenance, since it too, was purchased on or near release. While many of the much vaunted '61s are tiring, at least if not perfectly preserved, this one was singing an operatic aria. Still boasting plenty of black fruit and a hint of charcoal, it is lively and gorgeous. Classic LMHB smoke, red brick and cranberry, the balance is exquisite and it even gains interest with air. Harmonious, although arguably a touch high in acid. Altogether stunning. (98 pts.)
