Giacosa at Elystan Street

Post Reply
User avatar
Comte Flaneur
Posts: 4863
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Contact:

Giacosa at Elystan Street

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Last night I attended a Bruno Giacosa off-line at Elystan Street restaurant in Chelsea, a new Michelin starred establishment in one of the hippest parts of London. Nearly as hip as Islington.

For some reason it was particularly difficult to describe these wines in articulate tasting notes, but I tried anyway.

With Canapes

Comtes De Champagne Rose 2006

Mixed from two different wines, one 100% Chardonnay, one 100% Pinot noir, it was unlike any champagne I have tried. I was more piqued by it than thrilled by it.

Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto du Lot, Inama 1998

Bright light on its feet, with hints of petrol. A lovely aperitif.

****
Velouté of ceps with lemon thyme chantilly and garlic brioche roulades, or,
Thinly sliced artichoke with a truffled tartare of aged beef and Tête de Moine

Barbaresco Gallina di Nieve 1989

Aged Nebbiolo; initially high-toned, with a bit of VA, which blew off to reveal a languid wine which weaved its charms and absorbed your attention. This is well into is secondary/tertiary phase; it is an effortless complex and mesmerising wine.

Barbaresco 1990

More fruit driven, berry and floral notes, characterful, smoother, lusher and cleaner than the 1989; the table generally preferred this to its more rustic-by-comparison flight mate.

The veloute was delicious

****

Parfait of duck livers with camomile jelly, fig chutney and sourdough toast, or,
Hand cut strozzapretti with Scottish girolles and parmesan

Barbaresco Asili 1999

Sterner and leaner, with laser-like focus, restrained initially with tar and roses, some herbs, spices and mineral elements. It has a firm line of acidity and keeps getting better and better through the night. Elegant, effortless and brilliant.

Barbaresco Santo Sefano di Neive 1996

Quite tight and tannic initially, this soon settles into its stride. Red fruits, spices, super poise and complexity, it glides effortlessly over the palate and has a fine finish.

Barolo Villero di Castiglione 1996

You notice a bit more weight, stuffing and oomph in this Barolo compared to the barbarescos but it still has that trademark diaphanous Giacosa class. Beautiful wine.

****

Breast of grouse with a croustillant of the leg, crushed celeriac and elderberries, or,
Fillet of aged beef with galette potatoes, wild mushrooms, truffle emulsion and red wine (£10 supplement)

Barolo Rocche del Falletto 1998

Perhaps the funkiest wine of the night and a bit looser and more forward than the others, it is still nevertheless a super wine with ripe, rich spicey notes.

Barolo 1999

Also rich and ripe, with rose petals and a nice earthiness.

Barolo Falletto 2000

This is already in a really good place, showing earth, ripeness and good complexity and once again that smooth effortless mouth feel and finish. A joy to drink.

The fillet beef dish was extraordinarily rich and extravagant

****

Roasted figs with goats milk ice cream, citrus beignets and lemon thyme, or,
Bitter chocolate mousse with cocoa tuiles, milk ice cream and salted caramel
Cheese

I missed the wine we drank with this but it was a JJ Prum Auskese Goldkapsel and terrific, with the absolutely splendid fig dessert

The table agreed that the quality of these Giacosa wines was extraordinary. And they were pretty evenly matched and of uniformly high quality. These are wines which grow on you and mesmerise you as they weave their magic and show off their class. They have a diaphanous and effortless quality. Perhaps the hallmark of Giacosa?

Reluctantly we conducted a poll and the wine of the night was the Barbaresco 1990 followed by the Barolo 2000. The 1989 Gallina and 1999 Asili tied for third, but there were no losers on the night and no slouches.
User avatar
jal
Posts: 2931
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:30 pm
Contact:

Re: Giacosa at Elystan Street

Post by jal »

Thanks for the notes Ian, sounds great, Giacosa is always awesome. Not sure if having so many different Giacosa is the way to do it, am I wrong or from your notes, they all seem to lose a bit instead. In any case, the food sounds amazing and one gets an idea of the style.
I love the Santo Stefano di Neive bottling, but the Castello di Neive estate uses the same grapes as Giacosa, is also quite traditional and is thankfully much cheaper.
Best

Jacques
User avatar
Blanquito
Posts: 5923
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:24 pm

Re: Giacosa at Elystan Street

Post by Blanquito »

That’s one tre serious tasting. Since I moved to Colorado, I’ve been fortunate to have a bunch of Giacosa baroli and Barbaresco from the 90’s and it’s a special, perhaps unique wine. Thanks for sharing theses notes and the skinny on an epic night.
User avatar
Antoine
Posts: 218
Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 2:45 pm
Contact:

Re: Giacosa at Elystan Street

Post by Antoine »

I missed this gathering but had the chance to taste the Barbaresco 1990 last week and it was truly an excellent wine. Thanks for the report.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 16 guests