What’s your favorite modern Bordeaux?

[Blanquito]

Two part query: what’s your favorite full-on modern Bordeaux?

If your answer is “none”, then answer what is the most modern styled Bordeaux that you still like? On some level, I’m curious if my BWE Brethren like any fully modern Bordeaux, and if yes, which?

My answer:
-Monbousquet **I’ve not had any after the 2001 vintage, but I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the 95, 98, 99, 00 and 01 vintages.

[Comte Flaneur]

Does Pontet Canet qualify as a modern wine? If so it would get my vote.

[Nicklasss]

Hi Blanquito.

I have a tough time figuring out what is a "full-on modern Bordeaux". From your choice, Chateau Monbousquet, i guess you mean that became a well regarded or appreciated wine lately (let say in the last 25 years) by a style that is dense, ripe fruit, lush texture and oaky.

If I'm correct, mine would be Chateau Faugères, a wine I tried on many vintages, and like even if "full-on modern" style.

Nic

[Ognik]

Define "modern".
Almost all contemporary bordelaise estates use modern techniques more or less.
If you compare 60s, 70s or 80s vintage wines with wines of today you will find almost no similarities.

[Blanquito]

This isn’t a metaphysical exercise. Modern style = defined in the eye of the drinker for current drinking, no more, no less. I consider Monbousquet an undeniably modern style wine and despite that I still really like the wine.

[dstgolf]

I love old style Bordeaux but I must admit to enjoying the modernized makings which to me are a step above their California cousins. Of the ones already mentioned Monbousquet is close to the top of my list. I love Malescot St Expury and only issue is that I`ve never bought enough. Pavie Macquin and Canon la Gaffeliere are perennial favourites. There is certainly loads of modern stuff out there and too many to list but those that Michael P allowed us the pleasure of trying at Chateau Teyssier on our visit in 2015 were beautiful across their stable including le Dome,le Carre,Mazerat and les Asteries. The few bottles we brought home have been delicious. I just wish these were available in Canada.

[jckba]

On the right bank I’ll go with Clinet as I’ve really enjoyed the lush hedonistic profile it has displayed of late (2009-2012) and am looking forward to seeing how these develop whereas on the left bank it’s got to be Leoville Poyferre which is a little glossier than either of it’s more traditional Leoville stablemates (which I also enjoy).

Blanquito - Nice thread topic and I am looking forwards to meeting you the second weekend of December in NYC

[Chateau Vin]

Troplong for me of lately...

Based on the responses, looks like more right bank producers are into modern style compared to left bank...

[Comte Flaneur]

On the right bank I’ll go with Clinet as I’ve really enjoyed the lush hedonistic profile it has displayed of late (2009-2012) and am looking forward to seeing how these develop whereas on the left bank it’s got to be Leoville Poyferre which is a little glossier than either of it’s more traditional Leoville stablemates (which I also enjoy).

Blanquito - Nice thread topic and I am looking forwards to meeting you the second weekend of December in NYC

JC/Blanquito - I predict you guys will get on famously...getting to the Big Apple on that weekend is likely to prove a bridge too far but hope to get over there in 2018.

Regarding this excellent theme one definition could be 'employs Michel Rolland as a consultant' hence my nomination of P-C. Michel Rolland: that great wine philosopher.

[AKR]

It seems like in the Graves there are more new wave wines being made now too, to wit: Le Thil, Branon, Haut Bergey, SHL, Pape Clement, etc.

Not just St Emilion for the international style wines.

Just by sheer volume of consumption, I'd probably go with Barde Haut and Faugeres for my personal preferences.

Reliable house merlot

[Chateau Vin]

It seems like in the Graves there are more new wave wines being made now too, to wit: Le Thil, Branon, Haut Bergey, SHL, Pape Clement, etc.

Not just St Emilion for the international style wines.

Just by sheer volume of consumption, I'd probably go with Barde Haut and Faugeres for my personal preferences.

Reliable house merlot

Haut bergey, branon, Barde haut, clos l'eglise, shl, le thil, beauregard, etc... I guess modern style runs in the family...

[Claudius2]

Folks
I really don't accept the "old style" and "modern" dichotomy in Bordeaux.

Most of the wines on both banks are different to when I started drinking wine and after 40 odd years guzzling it, I don;t think there is a clear separation of styles.
The newer winemakers are arguably embracing more technology, but that is from my perspective a good thing most of the time.
My concern is more the higher levels of alcohol that seem to throw some wines out of balance (and it is too common in warm areas of Australia too).

Going back to the seventies, the wines from Bordeaux were lower in alcohol and typically were not as rich as they are now, but many were rather thin, with green tints that i never liked.
No wonder I can't handle Sav Blanc.

The technology and application of a lot of research and development has I would argue led to a much higher overall style of wines and there is still plenty of room for different styles and characters.

At the same time, I am not saying that the wines from the 60s for example were worse, not at all.
But they are now a lot more consistent, and the mid level wines (eg, lesser classed growths, cru bourgeois, St Emilion GCs etc) are generally a lot better than 40 to 50 years ago.

We get into the same argument in Australia, but some of the expensive wines here from warm areas are now 18% alcohol and smell like used sump oil, and have the viscosity of honey or treacle.
So theere are makers that eschew that style and still make warm area wines that are savoury and medium bodied.

[JimHow]

Cantemerle.

[Claudius2]

Jim,
Cantemerle isn't a wine I have drunk much over the years.
The only vintage I remember fondly was the 89.
The most recent vintage I've had was 2005 which didn't sing to my ears.
Is it consistently good now?

[JimHow]

I have been finding it year after year a Jim How kind of wine, Claudius, at a reasonable price.

[Ognik]

@claudius2 +1, that's what i say.
@jimhow, do you think Cantemerle is a modern wine in the making?

[jckba]

Hi Claudius2 - While I agree with many of your points I do also believe that using the word modern or traditional in a Bdx tasting note can be quite a useful descriptor as it conveys the impression that that wine made on the taster (and as such is subjective). I also feel that using these terms on Bdx Chateau is kind of like trying to stick a post it note on a moving target as things do change. And truth be told, I am generally quite happy with either camp as long as the wine in front of me is balanced and retains freshness, those are the keys for me.

So are you buying any of that multi-vintage Grange

[AKR]

Just thinking about St Emilions, for my palate, I think these are archetypes

AFWE: Larmande
Traditional: Grand Corbin Despagne
Modern: Barde Haut

All are good to me, but I think if people try those examples and rank them, they'd probably get a sense of what they like.

They're all large production, broadly available stateside, and reasonably priced.

No harm in having all of the camps in the cellar!

[jal]

It really depends on the vintage. Lately Pontet Canet and Smith Haut Laffitte have been on a roll but the prices have gone out of control. I liked the 2012 Barde Haut, but I won't buy the 2014 or 2011 vintage. I disliked the Poyferre and as I mentioned previously, Grand Puy Lacoste, these two are basically unbalanced modern Bordeaux.

I guess Pontet Canet and Smith Haut Laffitte if I can afford them....

[Carlos Delpin]

Modern Bordeaux? Isn't that the main reason for drinking California Cab? Modernity is not something that I want in my Bordeaux. I'll keep looking for stinky, lower alcohol , balanced wines. Life is too short.

[DavidG]

Great post by Claudius on the foibles of trying to label Bdx as "modern" or "traditional." There are so many factors and meanings, it can vary from year to year for the same property, and it’s so subjective. Yet there is clearly a spectrum as Arv points out.

Carlos, good to see you posting. I hope it means you’ve got consistent access to power and can concentrate on the less essential aspects of life like debating the utility of modern Bordeaux. I’m casting my vote with Patrick for Monbousquet for exactly the reason you mentioned: it's a California Cab substitute at half the price of a similar bottle from Napa.

[Blanquito]

Carlos, good to see you posting. I hope it means you’ve got consistent access to power and can concentrate on the less essential aspects of life like debating the utility of modern Bordeaux. I’m casting my vote with Patrick for Monbousquet for exactly the reason you mentioned: it's a California Cab substitute at half the price of a similar bottle from Napa.

I was going to post near the same sentiments, David, both that Carlos and hoping much of PR, are back online, etc. And that Monbousquet is a great Cali “cab” that can be had for $50 or less!

We drank a 99 Monbousquet last night and blind I would have sworn it was an excellent Cali Cab from the mid 90’s, maybe even a more traditionally styled Cali producer like Dunn or Forman!

I get how hard it is to consistently call a wine modern or traditional and that it changes through the vintages and years, BUT in general I (at least) find Bordeaux falls pretty consistently on a stylistic continuum. I’m comfortable calling a wine what is is right now, even if it (or I will) change down the line. Put me in the 70’s, and I might prefer the ‘modern’ wines from that era (to say nothing of the clothing and facial hair fashion). Everyone’s style preference is different, which is what makes this so interesting.

[AlohaArtakaHoundsong]

I wish I knew. I don't try enough wines to have a favorite in any category. For example the 2005 Barde Haut was/is really nice. But that's my only vintage. I don't have an obvious go-to for a modern Bdx the way say Sociando Mallet is a go-to for a more traditional style. But I have enjoyed many Bdx that might have seemed modern at the time, including e.g. Faugeres in 1998 and 2004, with the latter seeming decidedly modern.