Random Rhonish Notes (long!)

[AKR]

Lots of random Rhone notes from this year, usually with food comments as well

===================

10 Ch. de Saint Cosme 'Les Deux Albions' [Cotes du Rhone] 14% abv. From estate vineyards, unlike their more available negociant CdR. This is syrah, grenache and some white grapes as well. It has a lovely floral nose, and is still dark purplish in color. For my tastes it has some zestiness, and is well resolved on the tannin front. Lots of good, dense berry fruit. I think its way better than their basic CdR, and I wish I'd tried it before. It's not as prevalent as the regular bottling, which Rimmerman/Garagiste sells a lot of. I like this a lot and will add this to the list of Cotes du Rhone that I'd buy for the house. Most of the time I think we get exposed enough to the category BTG or while traveling that one doesn't need that much, but a few producers are worth the cellar racks spots. It's more like a baby Cote Rotie than a CNDP, which is a little unusual for this AOC. A- and still vibrant for my tastes.

We had a bottle of the 98 La Roquette [CNDP] last night and I thought it was terrific. Very smooth, well resolved, complex with cinnamon, cloves, incense on the nose. Fully resolved and balanced -- we had it by itself and it was very nice. I never had this in its youth but I thought it was only a little bit smaller than the 98 Vieux Telegraphe. Better than a 98 Vieux Mas de Papes in the last year or so though. Maybe it doesn't age as long as VT*, but I still really like this bottling, and am glad to have a other recent vintages laid down. This La Roquette has a wonderful sweetness to the palate, even though its dry of course. Easy A- in my ledger.

I just finished a 2014 d'Aupilhac 'Lou Maset' blanc [Languedoc] over the last few days. It's a Kermit Lynch import but one of the few that I've found kind of blah from the region. 13% abv and its already gotten soft on the acidity, although the label says it underwent malo fermentation so maybe that's some of it. It's functional, but not very interesting. I remember some of the rouges over the years and they seemed much better. Light straw in color and flavor. I really only like viognier driven wines from the South of France, and this is grenache blanc and some other stuff. B- for me.

We had a bottle of the 2007 Charvin CdR the prior two nights, and it really drank better on the second day. It's an interesting wine, not at all spoofy/jacked up/modern, but I get a tiny hint of funky flowers in it. I remember that from another bottle a few months ago too. Despite the age, I think decanting helps this. Addendum: Revisiting the 2007 CdR ~ a year later. In this case the wine drank better on the first night, with the funky notes emerging more on the second. Still doing very well and no rush to consume it despite its modest AOC. A wine for those who love grenache.

We've been nursing a 2007 Clos Thales 'Llibre Obert' [Cotes de Catalanes] the last few days. I was interested in trying this, since the producers seem to have an interesting backstory. I think its old vine carignan, extremely dark and syrupy. 14.9% abv according to the label. Its distinctive and seems more noble than what its grape is. On the first night I got ancho pepper and cigar ash on the bouquet, in a strong way. Those mellow out by the 2nd night, but its still very distinctive / unusual. The SO had a couple of sips and decided it wasn't for her. There is also some fennel and licorice here too. Pretty good finish - 30 seconds at least. Medium amounts of sediment, for 10 year old country wine. Reading Rosemary George's book has given me a little more confidence to try these vin de pays, but I'll readily grant that these are atypical efforts. For their debut vintage, it has developed well. I guess the project has been shut down now; I doubt there was consumer appetite for humble VdP at tete du cuvee pricing. Still I'm glad they tried this, and I'm glad to have tasted this smoky, peaty, furry wine. I'm not going to grade it, but hope others might chime in with comments or TNs.

I cracked another 2012 Chapoutier [Banyuls] -- they are still very tight, tannic, and dark purple/black. I think they will take another decade to really be what one expects with a Banyuls. Never have been able to figure out what their involvement was in this region. I knew they were doing some projects in the Languedoc but hadn't heard they had made their way into the southwest.

We had a bottle of the base cuvee (not Felix) 2001 Dom. Bois de Boursan [CNDP] tonight with eggplant rollantini. 13.5% abv. Quite murky/cloudy despite being stood up for a few days. Has a funky, strong Pegau like nose. It sort of blows off after an hour or two. This was purchased on release and cellared at proper temps fwiw. There's a bit of tannin that becomes more apparent when the food is finished. A traditional CDNP but a bit tight at first, and under fruited/spiced to my taste. I've only had this estate a few times, and based on the estate and vintage profile, I should like the bottle...but so far I'm a little disappointed with the results of ~ 15 years patience. I guess I'd give it a B today. We'll see how the second half of the bottle is tomorrow, which was decanted into a split on opening.

I've been enjoying a 2009 Vignobles de Seyssuel 'Sixtus' [VdP Collines Rhodaniennes] rouge the last couple of nights. It's a sneaky wine, leading off austere and tight, and then showing more as it gets some air. A restrained 12.5% abv, with a bouquet of tea and a taste of red raspberries. Earth and salt here too. No sediment. This is a project by Louis Cheze and some others, and its a tiny vineyard not far from Cote Rotie that gets all the fancy treatment: 100% syrah at 30 hl/a yields from south facing aspects, hand harvested, destalked, foot trodden (!), small vat fermentation, and then malo in small casks. Pretty beet color, medium bodied, and some good acidity. This could have been used for more than sipping with the feet in the pool on a 104F day. I bet it was better younger, and give it a B+. I've not tried Louis Cheze's wines before but Lermouth had recommended them. 2009 seems good in the Northern Rhone so far. Even though there seems to be a lot of modern techniques, I think the AFWE would like this too. I don't think it's consistently imported but perhaps 2015 is stateside (I saw a writeup in the newest WS on the blanc)

We had a bottle of the 2015 Domaine de l'Olivette [Bandol] rose the other day with sauteed fish. It was excellent, one of the best roses I can recall. The back of the label claims vines have been on the estate since the 6th century, along with a moderate 13% abv. It has great depth and a nice crisp edge to it. I find so many roses are just watery tasting to me, and usually would prefer a white wine in the same context, but this was not like that. Maybe its made somewhat differently, but I thought most Provencal rose is just saignee / bleed off by product. Rose season is coming to an end, and I think this was the last bottle of still pink wine in the house. The whole bottle was guzzled up at dinner, and we were turning the bottle upside down to get the last tasty pink droplets!

14 Barou [Condrieu] I'd never heard of this producer before but picked up a bottle at CSW on a recommendation from one of their staff. It comes in an Alsatian/German shaped bottle rather than the usual Rhone shape and clocks in at 14% abv. It doesn't have coverage from professional reviewers beyond Lermouth although the (small) estate has been around for a couple of decades. I loved it. It's light bodied but has a terrific nose - complex, layered, floral, honeysuckle, even some of that sweet anesthetic smell too. And on the palate its got plenty of verve to go with food. We had it with cod, eggplant, and heirloom tomatoes - and it pairs well with that. Supposedly this light straw colored wines is biodynamic, and this vineyard is on a steep hillside. I don't have views on all the 'cowhorn at midnight' stuff, but its delicious, balanced wine with long tropical flavors. Our bottle at dinner survived about at hour. A- and a total treat. I need more wine like I need a hole in my head, but now I want to try more of their lineup.

Last bottle of 07 Delas Saint Espirit rouge [Cotes du Rhone] quaffed up yesterday afternoon, with friends by the pool. Still tasty, but should be drunk up I think. For a negociant blend, its a lot of juice for a ten spot (or at least that's where the 2015 rouge is offered at my supermarket)

07 Chemin des Rouvieres [Vacqueyras] I think this is a co-op producer; I've never had it before nor heard of it. I know many beat up the 2007 So. Rhones -- here is an example worthy of their ire. It's 14% abv, and to my taste, tastes hot and raisiny. I had the wife taste it blind, and she described it as pruney. Perhaps it was more balanced in its youth, but as time has gone on, with no percieved palate acidity to balance it out, it feels hot & heavy. Now, fairly, when its 104F outside, this isn't the best choice for an afterwork sipper, but we normally always have something chilled in the fridge, so the flabbiness isn't a temperature driven feeling. The finish is shorter than one would think for an AOC level wine; I've had CdR level wines that are drinking better today than this. Although Vacq. are not really agers, or at least all the older ones I've had have underwhelmed considering the cellaring efforts. The color is quite dark, still purplish, with thick legs coating the glass, visually youthful. So overall, a disappointment today, perhaps it drank better on release. I think its a tank raised, non oaked wine, so maybe it is simply not cast for a decade long wait. I guess a B- or C+ on my gradesheet.

01 Dom. du Pourra [Gigondas] This is my first experience with this estate, and I don't see comments boards about it, although Lermouth's book touches upon it. 13.5% abv, and the label says it a typical southern GSM blend, driven by grenache. Cement vatted for vinification, with oak elevage afterwards. The label gleefully suggests venison as a pairing; I can't tell if that's snarky, or serious. In any case I slow braised a couple of goat chops and the SO made a potato gallette to with it. Not much sediment, medium bodied, and a fulsome, pleasing wine. Among the Gigondas AOC I actually liked 99 the best of the happy 98-01 quartet....but I don't think this example should be kept further. It does drink well on the first day, but there's no improvement on the second night, so I think the time to consume them is now. Typically So. Rhone flavor typicity here with maybe one notable dimension - there's still tannin left. Even firm estates like Cayron in 2001 have shed that by now. In sum: I liked it, and would drink it again, but wouldn't go out of my way to hunt it down. We finished the bottle and moved on to a co-op Vacqueryas that I hadn't tried before. These are all too heavy for summer wines. I'd give this a B or so grade.

I had a bottle of the 2015 Guigal blanc CdR tonite, with aloo gobi and naan. It is a little fatter, fleshier than the 2014. To my tastes it has a little quinine, bitter tonic note to it. I liked the 2014 better, but we'll see how this develops -- I have a few more bottles to consume over the rest of the year. 13.5% abv, although it feels bigger. It's available locally (K&L and Costco) but I don't think I need any more than the remaining bottles I have.
added later: Been enjoying another of the 2015 version of this the last few nights, and it really does have a noticeable grapefruit like pith bitter edge to it. If one likes Campari cocktails or San Pellegrino Arranciata sodas -- my SO loves both -- this would be a good one to try.

I finished a bottle of the 2007 Chave 'Mon Coeur' [Cotes du Rhone] over the last few days and it grew on me. A little prune and barnyard at first, but it rounded into plums, violets, some pepper. More depth than I recall in other vintages. Normally I don't buy any of his wines, generally being left nonplussed by the negociant ones, and unwilling to pay up for the estate ones, but this year/example was pretty solid. Although mostly syrah from what I understand, I think the vineyards are in the Rasteau/Valreas/Cairanne southern Rhone areas. Glossy, modern style to my taste -- but good. I'd give this a B+. Lots of concentration and it has held up well for a midweek QPR. Still, I think these should be drunk up. Last glass was quite cloudy with sediment.

2015 les Lauzeraies [Tavel] This is a 14% abv rose which is fresh and fruity, showing crisp strawberry fruit notes. The color is a pale pink and it has a nice crisp edge when cold. It went very well with a Mitsommer seafood spread: boiled shrimp, pickled herring, smoked sprats, shrimp/egg/ditali salad, gravlax, prinz korvs, dark rye loaves etc. Perhaps this picture link will work https://goo.gl/photos/3ZT8ssaL6wW2wmLWA The mix is classic southern Rhone, according to the label: half grenache and the rest a blend of syrah, cinsault, and mourvedre. But it tastes nice and clean despite the latter component. No wet dog notes so perhaps the region was ripe enough in 2015. This is a good rose perfect for a hundred degree day. A nice B+ or better grade, and worth a reload if one didn't have a full rack for the "drink now" queue. I like the fresh cut flowers feel it seems to have. The days from here on will start getting shorter.

2004 Domaine de Bonserine 'La Garde' [Cote Rotie] 13% abv. I made goat chops, couscous, and cauliflower in a North African style with preserved lemons to go with this. I guess this is a modernist producer not shy about using oak, but this single vineyard example didn't seem overwrought to me. Upon opening it showed olives and ham notes, but those didn't stay for long. It's medium bodied, not tannic, but has a little acidic edge. It goes well with food. By the second day it starts fading, and there is a residual sour edge to it. However it was likable on the first day, a real surprise. I'd assumed that I would be drinking it myself since the SO normally doesn't care for No. Rhones so I figured it if was just me, an off vintage effort was ok, especially since I figured it would pair well with the food, since it rhymed. I liked the wine, especially on the first day. I'd give it a B overall. I've not had this producer/vineyard before, but have a bottle of the (hopefully deeper) 2003 squirreled away. It's quite a substantial bottle, although the picture may not show that. https://www.screencast.com/t/rHvEmfbr6H The jar of preserved lemons on the right is from Tunisia or Algeria or someplace like that; I got it from Zingermans. Unusual, differentiated flavor

15 Cave de Tain 'Syrah' [Collines Rhodaniennes] 13% abv. This is an $8 entry level bottling from the well regarded co-op in the Northern Rhone. I was making a beef stew, and the recipe called for some wine, so half the bottle went in there, and the rest into my gullet. I've only had the entry level whites from this coop before and they're ok. This was better to my tastes. It is purplish, medium bodied, and has a hint of zestiness, verve to it. There is mostly monochromatic peppery, violet flavors here. No real aroma, bouquet but its solid chunky wine, especially for the price. A nice sneak peak at what the 2015 Northern Rhones reds might look like, if simple/little ones like this are so gluggable. I'd give it a B, doubt it will keep, but there's a lot of bang for buck here, for drinking now. I'm getting excited to try the bigger 2015 Northern Rhones, which are slowly starting to hit the US shores.

I had a bottle of the 2001 Vieux Donjon [CNDP] tonight, from regular import channels, held since release. It's singing perfectly. I like my CNDP on the long end of the curve though. Lovely orange / grand Marnier notes, bricking at the edges, and a glorious nose. We sent the last glass to the bartender who came over and commented on it. I don't think they were being insincere or anything, but they seemed genuinely impressed with it. Of course 15 years of patient cellaring works well on these old school Rhones.

15 Dom. de Viranel 'Viognier' [Cessenon] This is a varietal labeled IGP from the Languedoc, direct imported by K&L; the label states 12.5% - 14% abv. I'd never tried / heard of the estate before, but generally have been happy with unknown viogniers from this general region, so took a flyer on this. Unfortunately this was disappointing, over 3 days served chilled/cold/room temperature with and without food. It has a synthetic cork and was a sound wine. It's flabby and doesn't have the pleasant viognier nose. Not much depth on the palate either. Pale straw in color. Somewhere in the B- zone if one was handing out a grade. Drinkable, not defective or anything, but nothing to desire again. Small sample set, but generally have liked white 2014's from the Rhone/Midi better than the 2015s.

2015 Louis Bernard [Cotes du Rhone Villages] Not sure if they make a blanc, but this is the their gulpable, and inexpensive, 13.5% abv red. $9 at Costco, and an open bottle in the fridge lasts maybe a day and a half around here. Medium bodied, not memorable, but good straightforward, tasty young CdR. It's a screwtop closure, as a plus. One has to pay $10+ more to get into the really interesting CdR level wines, like Charvin or Coudelet, but this is good for what it is. 2015 is a solid vintage for this category, in my anecdotal efforts so far. I would not let this wine stretch its legs much, just drink this commercial offering up young. Easy B+, maybe better.

99 Michel Perraud 'Les Genets' Vielles Vignes [Cornas] I have not tripped over this producer before, but I like this. Over two days, with pork tacos and then a goat cheese pizza. It got some air, but no decanting, despite the 'non filtre' warning on the label...there's a lot of sediment in the last chewy glass. Only 12.5% abv, but good flavor, and full bodied feel. Red berry fruit flavors. I think this is supposedly fermented with the stems, and gets lots of oak treatment, but at this age, neither are apparent. It's balanced between fruit, tannin, and acid. Surprisingly for a wine of this ilk, its just fine on its own without food. Nose has soy, minerals/slate, and crushed red fruit. I like this. Not sure what happened to this producer / vineyard as it seems to have fallen by the wayside; no comments on them in my two Lermonth books. A very nice B+ wine.

I had the 2007 Xavier Vignon [Vacqueyras] over the last few nights with polenta, green beans, and hog jowls. It drank best on the second night. I picked up lots of plum and mint on the nose. It has a full bodied frame that carries its 14.5% abv okay, with licorice on the palate. No tannin left, and low acidity at least to my taste. I thought it still showed some oak, although the SO disagreed with me. Lots of sediment at the end of the bottle. Normally, I don't trust Vacqueyras beyond a decade, but this is still going strong, whether that's a testament to the producer or the ripe vintage is an open question. I like it, even more than Sang des Cailloux' various vats.

98 Dom. de la Cote de l'Ange [Chateauneuf du Pape] 13.5% abv. not owned from release, but bottle looks pristine. Popped and poured with some super crispy chicken thighs in a ginger peach sauce. I've been loving the 98 So. Rhones since release, and this was another nice one, although past its prime. Medium bodied, has lightened up on the edges. Fruit has faded a bit. Fennel and cinnamon on the nose. Light sedimentation. It's a good not great wine, but ~ 20 years is a long lifeline, and 1998 was exceptional. Not many of this year left. No tannin nor sharp acidity. Its not a goopy, spoofy CNDP -- those who feel like the region has little to offer them might consider this if its still true to old form. It's more restrained than the bigger CNDPs. Very solid B here, likely better younger.I'll also give them props for the beautiful art deco style label, although I don't know if they use that nowadays. It's my first experience with the estate.

I just popped a bottle of the 2003 Colombier 'Gaby' [Crozes Hermitage] and am loving it. The SO didn't want wine tonite, so I figured I could/should open something she doesn't care for, and Northern Rhones are a pass for her. 14% abv, dark in color, no lightening at the edges yet, a nose of meat, soy, seaweed, and cranberries. It's full bodied, long legs, and richens up in the glass. I'm drinking this without food/fats/acids in the mouth and I'm getting maybe 30-40 seconds of finish. Still lots of sediment in the bottle, and I do get low levels of tannin in mouth. I guess it depends on your acceptance/tolerance of those. For me, they are balanced, and polite, but I might go fetch a piece of cheese to finish the glass. With a small chunk of Comte, everything is more in balance. I really like the blend of fruit and savory notes here, and expect it continue holding well, surprising for a C-H, but 2003 was a freakish year. I've put half the bottle away in an airtight 375ml, so we'll see how that shows tomorrow. I don't know what Colombier does as far as elevage, but I don't pick up anything like excessive oakiness at this point. This bottle makes me want to pick up some of their 2003 and 2015 Hermitages, as well as the Gaby Crozes bottlings from recent years. addendum: 24 hours later, the last half bottle that was sealed up airtight, except for oxygentation while transferring, was lovely, but not as good as the wine on the first night. I think its at its plateau of maturity, perhaps just on the long downslope, so no need to particularly worry/consume, but I don't think its improving: I'd give it an A-. Still like PJA's Raymond Rourre bottling better from this year, but it gives it a real run for the money. another addendum, months later: finally pinned down a bottle of the 2003 Colombier Hermitage

98 Vieux Mas des Papes [CNDP] 13.5% popped and poured, although not held since release it had a great looking cork, fill, label etc. Back in this era this was the young vines offering of the Vieux Telegraphe estate. Later I think they changed the name to Telegramme; in either case I'd never had the 1998 junior wine. It is medium bodied, some bricking at the edges, with a nose of cinnamon, saddle, camphor and a little sweat too. There is a light amount amount of sediment in the final glass. The tannin is long resolved, and is also showing well balanced acidity, if anything maybe on the low side. Seems to drink better without food, than with it. Palate is lovely, although the fruit has faded a bit, and there's now some bitter chocolate and nut flavors. I actually like older Rhones more at this stage though. It drinks best on the first day, although the second days last glass is still nice. If one still has these, drink up. It was an A- on the first day, falling off to a B by the second day for me.

[DavidG]

Wow, that’s a load of great notes.

Agree with you completely on the Deux Albions - a favorite QPR year in and year out. The Chave Mon Coeur is good but a bit too sweet cherry for me. Charvin is another good one but honestly I tend to gravitate to the St Cosme Deux Albions when given the choice.

I have a couple of 2001 Vieux Donjon in the cellar and it’s been a few years since my last one. Time to try another.

[stefan]

Gosh, I have not bought any Rhones since PC stiffed me and only have one bottle here. Your notes make me want to look for some. My son-in-law loves CdP and other southern Rhones, so I have an excuse to continue overbuying for our time in CA.