Trip to Barolo (part one)

[Comte Flaneur]

Last week a group of us visited Barolo region. Apologies for the lack of pictures.

On arriving in La Morra late on Monday night we walked around the corner from our hotel to More e Macine restaurant where the local winemakers hang out. Bustling even on a Monday we drank an excellent Roagna Bianco 2015 (90% Chardonnay, 10% Nebbiolo) and ordered an Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2011, but ended up with the formidable but already approachable 2013, our wine of the previous week's Lay & Wheeler tasting in London. This cost 80 euros off the list, which had a treasure trove of illustrious Barolo and Barbaresco, many in the 60-80 euro range. We are staying in Villa Katerina, which is in the centre of town, and highly recommended. Owned by a Russian couple it is immaculately refurbished.

Azelia

Our first visit on Tuesday afternoon was to Azelia, right at the bottom of the hill in Castiglione Falletto. We were hosted by Lorenzo, son of winemaker and owner Luigi Scavino, fifth and fourth generations of this 16 hectare, 80k bottle pa, 97 year old estate. This estate errs towards the traditional, characterised by the grandfather clock in the main reception area, but the distinction between modern and traditional is largely redundant these days.

Dolcetto Bricco Dell Oriolo 2015 - fresh, zesty, aromatic, versatile bit of truffle and peppers. Serve at 14 degrees. A perfect versatile wine with summer Mediterranean dishes. 13.5%

Langhe Nebbiolo 2015- mouth filling, lots of tannic structure, more depth, juicy cherry fruit, crisp elegant, aromatic, fresh, no wood. Stern acidity, bracing tannins. Would go well with salmon 14%

Barolo 2013 - haunting nose of violets and woodsmoke, truffle; approachable, tannins softening. Limestone minerality, elegance, balance, freshness, smooth, ripe fruit and ripe tannins.

Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2013 - Castiglione Falletto (single vineyard) ‘shape of hill like a flask.’ Bricco is top of the hill. Ripe, juicy, intense, perfumes, dominated by red fruits, cherries, strawberries and raspberries. Very aromatic, 80-85 year old wines. Elegant, fresh.

Barolo Margheria 2013- Serralunga D'Alba, top of hill. Haunting nose. Iron mineral notes, aromatic. Salinity from clay with calcium, deeper with more power. More puckering but still approachable.

Barolo San Rocco 2013- Serralunga D’Alba, top of hill. Bridge of Baudana. Monopole 2.5 hectares. Mineral, structured and more powerful. Seamless velvety texture,

Barolo Riserva Bricco Voghera 2007 - 85 year old vines slight oxidative, sherry, note blew off. Steepest vineyard, most exposed to the south, Ripe macerated fruit. Tar, syrup and molasses. Rich, very ripe and full-bodied. Calms down and mellows. Develops complexity and improves in the glass.

So much thought goes into the winemaking here, for example in the choice of thicker Austrian oak barrels. The wines are cerebral, rather than flashy.

For dinner we went to Tornavento, a Michelin star restaurant in Trieso, on the other side of Alba, packed with locals. We had a six course meal with mystery wines in each flight chosen by our host, Aziz, and the sommelier.

While it was grande, in our opinion it wasn't universally Michelin standard, and with the 30 minute taxi ride at two euro a minute made for an expensive evening out.

Of the wines a Giacosa Ast Spumante and the 2010 Syrah spelt backwards were unremarkable. The Vigneti Massa Berthina 2011 and Gattinara 2012 Nebbiolo were excellent. The Gaja Barbaresco 2013 was effortless and elegant but not quite worth the 180 Euro admission price while the two Riserva 2001s Clerico Per Cristina and Azelia Voghera Brea were the highlights. The Azelia was my wotn.

[jal]

Great notes, Ian.
We loved Azelia when we visited two years ago and had the same tour with Lorenzo. Your notes inspired me to open the 2011 Bricco Fiasco yesterday, an absolutely delicious wine but could age for another decade.
Lorenzo also said that the battle between modern and traditional producers are over. That said, and from your subsequent notes about Scavino and Voerzio, I think that it is a little premature. I will stick with the traditional producers myself over the Sandrones and Scavinos. Give me Elio Grasso, Mascarello and Azelia any day.
I was never a fan of the Giacosa Asti (or the Arneis), when you make the best Barolos and Barbarescos out there, why lower the standards to make mediocre plonk?

[Comte Flaneur]

Thanks Jacques. Glad you too enjoyed Azelia. Great minds....

I think the correct narrative is that the distinction between modern and tradionalist is largely redundant as producers converge on best (of both) practice. Having said that it doesn't mean that the philosophy of manipulation has died and perhaps the distinction now is between those who are willing to manipulate in the cellar, as I think Scavino does - the comment that they worked very hard to make a success of their 14s is arguably somewhat at odds with wanting the vintage and terroir to express themselves - and those who don't.

I think Azelia is an excellent example of an estate that combines the best of both worlds, with an emphasis on using old vines where possible. You could taste significant differences in the single vineyard barolos. In the old days Barolo was ferociously tannic in its youth and took a long time to come around. The introduction of new oak from by the modernists then robbed these wines of the esoteric essence of Nebbiolo, e.g., tar and roses. Now we have much more accessible and better made wines with the essence of Barolo.

I bought two cases of 2010 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero on release and unfortunately this wine has been so ridiculously hyped, prices have gone crazy. Fortunately with the sale of one of these cases I can finance the purchase of four cases of Azelia single vineyard - Bricco Fiasco 12 and 13 and San Rocco 10 and 13. Azelia stands out as outstanding quality for the price. That was the most important takeaway from our trip.

[Blanquito]

Beautiful notes on Azelia, I producer I have a case or two of from various vintages picked up cheaply at auction. I always imagined Azelia was a modern producer — I haven’t actually drunk many because my bottles are young and I prefer my Barolo with some age — so it’s nice to hear details about its style. It really sounds like my kind of wine.

[jal]

Yes Ian, we are on the same page. This is what I wrote back in 2015 about Azelia:

Azienda Agricola Azelia, Castglione Falleto: We visited this small operation and had a long tour with Lorenzo Scavino, the great grandson of the founder of the same name. The young man explained that they are cousins of the more famous Paolo Scavino. This is a more traditional operation but they use modern methods and the cellars looked almost brand new. We liked the wines, especially the single vineyards Barolo, they showed a lot of power and structure but these are wines for long aging.

I imagine by now everyone is aware that the modern vs traditional battles that had taken place here are now (for the most part) in the past, most wineries have moved to a more or less traditional style with modern method ways of production. There may still be some bad blood though, as one person said they wished everyone kept their style instead of constantly changing every few years.



Great minds indeed

[jal]

Beautiful notes on Azelia, I producer I have a case or two of from various vintages picked up cheaply at auction. I always imagined Azelia was a modern producer — I haven’t actually drunk many because my bottles are young and I prefer my Barolo with some age — so it’s nice to hear details about its style. It really sounds like my kind of wine.

Patrick, I also prefer my Barolos on the older side, but 2011 is a vintage that I have found approachable young. I think 2013 is similar.

I wouldn't think of opening my 2008 and 2010 bottles

[Comte Flaneur]

At Azelia with our host Lorenzo:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tpQCixWTcEibyLPj1

[Comte Flaneur]

Dinner that evening at Tournavento:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uAq4dcvUVA8T0Ddv2

[Chateau Vin]

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I bought two cases of 2010 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero on release and unfortunately this wine has been so ridiculously hyped, prices have gone crazy. Fortunately with the sale of one of these cases I can finance the purchase of four cases of Azelia single vineyard - Bricco Fiasco 12 and 13 and San Rocco 10 and 13. Azelia stands out as outstanding quality for the price. That was the most important takeaway from our trip.

Comte, I didn't realize the price has skyrocketed 2010 Burlotto Monvigliero to 225/btl until you mentioned...I bought 4 bottles at release, and paid 43/btl... Wow...

[Chateau Vin]

Comte,

Thanks for the great writeup...Never tried Azelia, but wondering where does it stand in the spectrum debate of traditional/modern when compared to traditionalists like Cappellano and Paiagallo? Just trying to get a sense...

Thanks

[Comte Flaneur]

Hi CV

My strong impression was that the distinction is mostly old hat and irrelevant. A WB thread painted Azelia as a modernist on narrowly-based criteria based mainly on small barrels versus old casks, but that seems passé now.

http://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/vie ... olo+modern

I think Azelia is perhaps the best example of a cerebral estate doing the best of both worlds. Both small barrels and big casks depending on the wine.

http://www.azelia.it/en/vini.php

Atb

Ian (aka CFdB)